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Josh95

Hi again, got some questions.

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Hi guys, so I have taken a break from airsoft but now Im getting back into the idea of it.

I have decided to buy a G&G top tech M4, now I have a couple of questions to ask....

 

One of the things I hated most about playing airsoft was winding up my mags, I have heard about these "emags" that wind up them self but i cant seem to find them anywhere. also If I bought midcaps instead of hicaps would that mean I dont have to wind them? or atleast as much. I'm quite conservative with my shooting when I play I normally use semi auto, so when I use a hicap I rarely even use 1 mag in a round. A midcap wouldnt bother me and changing mags i think is quite fun.

 

Lastly, what do you think would be the best battery solution for me to use?

I was thinking a 7.7 lipo (I already have lipo chargers) but would an 11 or a nimh battery be better?

Like to hear your guys thoughts, I should be playing again maybe by next weekend :)

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Lonex flash mags... Hi cap, but no real winding to speak of. And 7.4 lipo would be just fine. Roughly the same output as the higher voltage nimh.

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Aye a Lonex hi-cap has a pull cord to wind it which is far easier than a manual winder although they can be less reliable as the ratchet system is fragile.
I recommend 7.4 LiPos over nimh batteries as for the size you get far more shots from them, I fire semi only and a 1450Ah battery would last all day. If you are only planning on having one battery though I'd recommend a 2200Ah battery if it'll fit as LiPos die if you run them flat, if running 2 batteries then go for 2 x 1450Ah and change them over at lunch to ensure they don't run flat.

If you use less than 450 rounds a game then mid-caps remove the requirement to wind completely and 4 mags would be plenty. Some guns don't like the p-mags and prefer the metal ones and vice versa, worth asking someone where you play if you can try their mags in your gun to see if they feed properly before spending out on them. I run mid-caps on my RM4 and 75 round mags on my Evo3. Mid-caps also don't rattle the BBs like hi-caps too so help be a little more stealthy when running around.

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Ok guys, thanks for the feedback!

If mid caps require no winding then that is definitely the route I will take.

Also I guess if I buy G&G mags they should be compatible with my G&G gun.

 

Good point you made about lipos dying, I have used lipos before In my RC planes and Cars so I know that is true, I think buying two 7.4's is what i will do.

Thanks for the help lads :)

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Ok I have 1 more question, the recommended battery for my gun is a 8.4V 1400mAh Mini Battery.

I understand this is a rather small battery would a 7.4 lipo actually fit in my gun?

The barrery compartment is in the buttstock.

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Ok I have 1 more question, the recommended battery for my gun is a 8.4V 1400mAh Mini Battery.

I understand this is a rather small battery would a 7.4 lipo actually fit in my gun?

The barrery compartment is in the buttstock.

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-35c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html

Size should be about the same, if not a little smaller. Fits in my M4's PTS grip fairly easily.

 

Also in regards to G&G midcaps, from what I've heard they're not great. They use an elongated feeding nub which has a habit of breaking.

Better off getting MAG midcaps if you don't mind them being plastic, I've also used CYMA metal midcaps which so far haven't had any problems. Got some King Arms plastic mids as well but they do occasionally jam up.

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DO NOT BUY THE G&G MAGS. They are completely thrash and actually don't work in G&G guns, heck they don't work in any guns well. The follower is a great feature but I have had two magazines lock now requiring disassembly and they regularly misfeed and uggghhh they are just awful. Avoid avoid avoid.

 

MAG is working but they are cheap plastic and have no follower for feeding all the BBs. While I haven't had any feeding issues if doesn't really fit my criteria for the magazines I want. But that just leaves me telling you I don't know which magazines to get, because I haven't found anything really good yet.

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Yeah heard bad things about G&G mags unfortunately.

How about those quite new Airsoft Systems 85Rnd mags? I want to get some myself but waiting for Jonathan (from the Airsoftology YouTube channel) to do a review. They're only £30 for a five pack and seem pretty good. There's also MAG magazines, like 8 for £55 or so and they're good (one downside is if you drop em or whack em hard, the spring releases very easily and you can lose all the rounds, still nice quality though)

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Yeah heard bad things about G&G mags unfortunately.

How about those quite new Airsoft Systems 85Rnd mags? I want to get some myself but waiting for Jonathan (from the Airsoftology YouTube channel) to do a review. They're only £30 for a five pack and seem pretty good. There's also MAG magazines, like 8 for £55 or so and they're good (one downside is if you drop em or whack em hard, the spring releases very easily and you can lose all the rounds, still nice quality though)

 

Not seen those before but kind of like the look of them, tempted to give them a go.

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With both my G&G guns (CM16 carbine and top tech T4-18) I have tried a P-MAG and in both cases they didn't feed a single BB. The guy who asked me to try it also had a G&G gun and couldn't get it to work so I asked if I would try it also. It didn't feed so we came to the conclusion that P Mags don't work in G&G. However I have seen people on these forums claim theirs do work, so I don't know if its incompatibiility with new guns or new mags or if the EPM will work or what. But they are mighty pricey so if you do try them then do please please please let me know if it works.

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well I run mag 190 rounders fine in my cm16, however not sure about a hk416. they are good though

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Ok guys, I think im going to order 3 of the G&P metal mags, ill tell you how they feed.

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I had a cm16 and the g&g mag was awful do I bought a CAA midcap and the gun fed bb's perfectly.

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Some of my M4 mags, I took the follower out and added an extra length of spring, feeds better

 

I found with the Velcro that the mags were harder to push in

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With regards to 7.4V LiPo's - I have found that a Red Dragon 30C 5000mAh does not perform as well as I expected in comparison to VP Racing / Vapex NiMh 8.4V mini packs and the same from a random 20C unbranded airsoft stick LiPo (although to be fair that was 2nd hand in with some other bits and may have been a lot more hammered than claimed) - To get similar trigger response when using these LiPo's I had to rewire with 16AWG and fit a MOSFET (and i still wasn't happy so I went to 16:1 gears).

 

TBH I've pretty much given up with them (actually i sold the 20C one for a fiver posted lol) and am in the process of converting all my guns to 11.1V LiPo's, which do give very noticeable benefits in fast trigger response and a crisper cycle. Although some guns also require an AB MOSFET, as opposed to just an ordinary power handling MOSFET, when using such a voltage to stop them firing full-auto when semi is selected. Of course some of them have/will need/ed a change of gears and/or piston, but i think it's worth it not just for the immediate benefits but for battery compatibility across my collection.

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I'm just sticking with what I have with my M4, all I'll upgrade is the barrel and hop unit

 

I may install a MOSFET when I've got more experience of upgrading as I've only just started out but if I do, then I'll do it on 1 of my sons rifles

 

Does the upgraded wire make a difference Ian ??

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I'm just sticking with what I have with my M4, all I'll upgrade is the barrel and hop unit

 

I may install a MOSFET when I've got more experience of upgrading as I've only just started out but if I do, then I'll do it on 1 of my sons rifles

 

Does the upgraded wire make a difference Ian ??

Yes it does, quite a bit. You'll notice it in trigger response and rate of fire. Another smaller improvement is to solder the motor connections instead of the spade connectors they usually come with and, of course, swapping any Small Tamiya connectors for Deans is another small improvement.

 

Just make bloody sure that when you do fit a MOSFET you use heat shrink to properly cover your connections and also, if you find that it is not possible to configure your wiring so that it never gets squashed between the gearbox and receiver when reassembling, using a bit of heat shrink to add an extra thickness of insulation over the point of most squash will help to make sure that you do not compromise the insulation. These precautions are worth taking because, if you short out most MOSFETs, even for a moment, that is it for them - FUBAR. You can also help this problem by sanding/filing/dremmeling any sharp edges inside the receiver until smoothly rounded and wiping a thin layer of grease both on the interior of the receiver and the wiring.

 

Trust me though, it is well worth it for the fast trigger response. TBH the rate of fire increase is a bit of a pain in the arse, especially if you're using mid caps, but you can learn to get the same spread of fire as from a lower ROF by good trigger discipline firing in 3rnd bursts (or use a MOSFET which provides burst control automatically).

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Thanks Ian, I have plenty of electronics experience from my rc models, what you call MOSFET, we call it an Electronic Speed Controller

 

Ive rewiredy rifle to front mounted battery so I can use my existing battery's but will defo rewire it all

 

I'm ex army so I know trigger discipline, most of the time I'm in semi auto but use 3 rnd bursts when needee

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Yeah, i'm not ex military, but it's the same problem in essence with the same solution in practice - adjust the nut behind the trigger. The problem with airsoft guns though is that you can easily achieve double the ROF of real steel and when you want spread, to shoot at a running target say, firing 3rnd bursts at them only gives the same spread if you jerk the muzzle a bit - which feels counterintuitive to me and, i understand, is something you're taught not to do in the military?

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I was always taught to lead a moving target, the point of 3 rnd bursts is so the rifle doesn't get of target with high velocity weapons

 

That's why amateurs with real AK's hold the trigger and hit the air

 

That's also why I want to add a MOSFET so I can set the ROF for 3 rnd burst, I've used a lipo and tbh, I haven't noticed much of a difference

 

i know there's a quick trigger mod where you adjust a grub screw to limit forward travel of the trigger but I can do that for free

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Was it [a] plug'n'play MOSFET/s? Because they are fine for burst control but do not avoid the main power running through the switch, so you don't get the benefit of avoiding the high resistance the switch introduces.

 

Also, if the wiring is the standard 20AWG it's resistance is a major factor in the initial moments when power flows to the motor - in those 1st microseconds the motor can draw a massive amount of power (i've read that some can draw upwards of 50 Amps momentarily), if the circuit can provide it, because it has to overcome its own inertia to get moving, not just the spring load. This is where LiPo's can really shine, because their output ramps up from 0V/0A to whatever their peak output is much faster than NiMh's, so by swapping the higher resistance parts of the circuit for low res solutions you get a double whammy of improvement.

 

Yeah, I know what you mean about leading the target, but if your 3 rounds follow close behind each other, then if 1 misses the others may very well also, but with a slower ROF if one misses the next may hit. So if you're trying to lead a running target with high ROF 3rnd bursts, you need to jerk the muzzle of you want to get a decent spread between your BB's... which feels wrong to me when i do it :unsure:

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