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I just got a g&g combat machine along with WE Airsoft Europe 8.4V 1600mAH Crane Stock Battery.

 

Could you guys please recommend what charger/power supply I would need for this and where to get it? Also why do I need a power supply, can't I just plug the charger into the wall?

 

I live in the UK.

 

Thanks for any help!

 

 

 

Edited red to comply with the thread format - Ian_Gere

You only need a power supply if the charger you buy doesn't have one built in. But your battery is an NiMh so you don't need the type of charger which usually doesn't have a built in power supply. This is more than you need, but considering it's only £14 posted and it's Vapex you should consider it, because although you can get a simpler machine from componentshop.co.uk cheaper, when you add their famously expensive shipping, it will be about the same price.

 

Oh, and you should also consider getting a 2nd battery to have as a spare, because accidents happen, and also because sometimes a 1600mAh battery will get run flat on days when you get cramp of the trigger finger ;) If I were you I would buy a VP Racing / Vapextech battery as your main and keep the WE one as a spare - you will get really excellent performance out of them (you will notice the difference in trigger response and the crispness of the firing cycle, not just in rate of fire) <- buy it at the same time as the charger direct from Vapextech and maybe get a shipping reduction, although they only charge £2 to ship a battery anyway...

Edited by Ian_Gere
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You only need a power supply if the charger you buy doesn't have one built in. But your battery is an NiMh so you don't need the type of charger which usually doesn't have a built in power supply. This is more than you need, but considering it's only £14 posted and it's Vapex you should consider it, because although you can get a simpler machine from componentshop.co.uk cheaper, when you add their famously expensive shipping, it will be about the same price.

 

Oh, and you should also consider getting a 2nd battery to have as a spare, because accidents happen, and also because sometimes a 1600mAh battery will get run flat on days when you get cramp of the trigger finger ;) If I were you I would buy a VP Racing / Vapextech battery as your main and keep the WE one as a spare - you will get really excellent performance out of them (you will notice the difference in trigger response and the crispness of the firing cycle, not just in rate of fire) <- buy it at the same time as the charger direct from Vapextech and maybe get a shipping reduction, although they only charge £2 to ship a battery anyway...

Could you possibly link which battery you would recommend getting please? Treat me as if I were a child because I don't understand much about this side of things.

 

Huge thank you for the help you've given, lots of people on this forum have been very helpful in my choices thus far. :)

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fitsu I recommend a lipo charger, when you do buy a lipo if you do, you can charge a lipo as well.

 

So me and a mate just kryloned his vsr, and now we are thinking as the paint can easily scratch, what is a good clear protective layer. I have forgotten the name of it, and does it need it?

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Could you possibly link which battery you would recommend getting please? Treat me as if I were a child because I don't understand much about this side of things.

 

Huge thank you for the help you've given, lots of people on this forum have been very helpful in my choices thus far. :)

fitsu I recommend a lipo charger, when you do buy a lipo if you do, you can charge a lipo as well.

Flex makes a good point there, but chargers which do both NiMh and LiPo's are more expensive. The one to go for in that case is the iMax B6 (which you can find on fleabay or amazon) - it comes in 2 formats: with the power supply built in, or without. The reason to buy it without is if you think you may take it somewhere where you will run it from a car battery (like a site with no facilities or a weekender where charging facilities are limited), otherwise may as well buy the lot as 1 unit. The PS you need is the type which looks like a laptop charger but outputs 12V @ 5000mAh -ish (4500 will do if the price is attractive) with the standard 12V size cylindrical plug (5.5mm) which accepts a pin down its centre inside the socket.

 

But bear in mind that, although LiPo's are the way forward, to get the best out of them you also want Deans connectors, 16AWG wiring, and a MOSFET - with standard wiring, Mini Tamiya connectors and no MOSFET, a VP Racing 8.4V NiMh will just outperform most 7.4V LiPo's and so long as you look after it, ie discharge it between uses, it will last well also. TBH you don't even want to think about what you need to know to jump to 11.1V LiPo's until you have at least skirmished the gun and got to grips with what the various parts of its mechanisms are called, plus how they work of course.

 

I'm not certain which NiMh battery pack you need, 2 leg or 3, but Vapex make them both and any others you may fancy, so if you don't see what you need here, it's probably just a job of emailing them. Somebody with more experience of wombat machines will be able to tell you exactly which shape fits your model.

 

So me and a mate just kryloned his vsr, and now we are thinking as the paint can easily scratch, what is a good clear protective layer. I have forgotten the name of it, and does it need it?

Krylon Clear Coat - from patrolbase. Put it on in 3 light coats, allowing at least 15mins to dry between coats.

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ok cheers ordering that now.

 

Does anyone know the thread size on the vsr 10 for the outer barrel? my mate is looking to put a mabull python in and he needs a suppressor as he will be using 509m one. I have no idea what the length is. cheers

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ok cheers ordering that now.

 

Does anyone know the thread size on the vsr 10 for the outer barrel? my mate is looking to put a mabull python in and he needs a suppressor as he will be using 509m one. I have no idea what the length is. cheers

 

Marui,Laylax and PDi produce a 14mm CCW thread adapter for the VSR 10 Pro series.You can find them on Ehobby,Xfire and most HK sites.

 

also, are pdi raven barrels any good?

 

and are welts .43 any good?

 

PDi Ravens are known to be very good. Some have outperformed the more expensive SUS304 steel barrels. Although 6.01s are generally 'power up' barrels the PDi Ravens have fantastic accuracy on par with their own 'Accuracy' bore 6.05mm barrels due to a very good coating on the carbon steel they use. I will try and find a test a Japanese magazine made comparing PDi Ravens to their SUS304 counterparts.

 

What do you mean by welts .43s? Brand? google isn't showing much

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I bought some Welts 0.43's from patrolbase, but I haven't tried 'em yet. Dave reckons they're good and he's not known for talking shite.

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Yeah, I've got a PDI 6.01x590mm in Svetlana - nobody has said that could be a problem though. It's those white BB King 0.4's which have a question hanging over them in that regard. But yeah, as soon as I can form an opinion I'll let you know...

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(on mobile)
anyone know if the hop rubbers in TM & ASG AEP series (specifically the Mac10, Skorpion & Glock 18) are the same in all these models? And what aftermarket ones are available, if any?
Thanks!

Edited by Ian_Gere
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whats the difference in degrees in hop rubbers? thanks

 

It's the hardness of the rubber. Forget temperature or angles it's nothing to do with that. Basically, the higher your FPS the harder the rubber you'll need.

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so what degrees would i need for a 340fps rifle?

 

I've been running a 50 degree rubber in my 330FPS rifle for the past year,about 20,000-ish rounds judging by the amount of empty bottles. No hints at performance decrease. I'd say 50-60 degrees should be grand. Most stock ones are about 60 if I remember correctly.

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ok, so I need some high quality, really strong sticking long stickers, and I need them to say coyote on them, do you know where I could buy these? I had a look on ebay, just wanted to know if anybody had bought some stickers before and could vouch on how well stuck they were (for a DH bike, will need to be good at sticking) thanks guys

TL;DR any good custom stickers that stick for a long time? cheers

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ok, so I need some high quality, really strong sticking long stickers, and I need them to say coyote on them, do you know where I could buy these? I had a look on ebay, just wanted to know if anybody had bought some stickers before and could vouch on how well stuck they were (for a DH bike, will need to be good at sticking) thanks guys

TL;DR any good custom stickers that stick for a long time? cheers

had some from these a while back they were decent

http://www.discountstickerprinting.co.uk/

what dh rig is it going on?

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I'd say no, but this one http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html should. Assuming a milspec buffer tube (which is the smaller of the two) you would have somewhere around 27mm ID to play with. The battery I posted is less than 26mm diagonally so you should be ok. Bit tight but OK.

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anyone recommend a decent lipo charger for 7.4 and 11.1s thats not too expensive but good quality thanks

iMax B6 + Power Supply or iMax B6AC

 

or look on amazon or fleabay for them

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had some from these a while back they were decent

http://www.discountstickerprinting.co.uk/

what dh rig is it going on?

sorry mate, I thought I had replied, guess my phone didn't send it.

 

Got a coyote dh3 frame, fox float 32"s, mavic wheels, avid brakes etc. It's alright, budget DH build (i'm 14 so the forks are fine for me) and it is quite nice. Seems to ride well, yeah good fun. will post a pic later if I can be bothered...

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sorry mate, I thought I had replied, guess my phone didn't send it.

 

Got a coyote dh3 frame, fox float 32"s, mavic wheels, avid brakes etc. It's alright, budget DH build (i'm 14 so the forks are fine for me) and it is quite nice. Seems to ride well, yeah good fun. will post a pic later if I can be bothered...

Flex man, you must be minted with all this stuff you get :)

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Flex man, you must be minted with all this stuff you get :)

nope, my dad used to work in broking, lost his job a year back or a bit. Problem is, he now teaches for the minimum wage. And, school fees are a lot, basically that bike there cost about £700 total to build, a lot of it second hand, and that is quite a low price. Maybe later on in my life I may be able to get a much nicer one, but i'm lucky to have it in the first place and be very grateful. I need to reiterate that if my dad either didn't like the sport or didn't like me doing it, none of it would have happened. He loves it however, and I have an uncle who owns a 9 bedroom chalet in Morzine so it's perfect for two weeks out there, free etc. Overall 500 quid for that holiday with food and tolls etc.

 

If you are talking about the P* I keep mentioning, I have saved up over the years. Generally, if I want something I sell everything else to buy it. I should be able to afford it, but my parents would never pay for something like that, they would happily buy me books though, and a DH rig

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