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How does one prevent an outer barrel from wobbling (up and down, not left or right) when everything is already tightened down?

 

Thinking of wrapping the barrel end with a rubber washer and tape to keep it centered into the handguard. Any ideas?

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2 minutes ago, Skara said:

How does one prevent an outer barrel from wobbling (up and down, not left or right) when everything is already tightened down?

 

Thinking of wrapping the barrel end with a rubber washer and tape to keep it centered into the handguard. Any ideas?

A little bit of jb weld epoxy might help as a permanent solution but it'll have to be somewhere hidden cos it won't be pretty, failing that the washer idea could work but it might move with use

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7 minutes ago, Skara said:

How does one prevent an outer barrel from wobbling (up and down, not left or right) when everything is already tightened down?

 

Thinking of wrapping the barrel end with a rubber washer and tape to keep it centered into the handguard. Any ideas?

 

Plumbing tape, (PTFE tape) along the barrel

7 minutes ago, Skara said:

How does one prevent an outer barrel from wobbling (up and down, not left or right) when everything is already tightened down?

 

Thinking of wrapping the barrel end with a rubber washer and tape to keep it centered into the handguard. Any ideas?

 

Plumbing tape, (PTFE tape) along the barrel

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49 minutes ago, Skara said:

How does one prevent an outer barrel from wobbling (up and down, not left or right) when everything is already tightened down?

 

Thinking of wrapping the barrel end with a rubber washer and tape to keep it centered into the handguard. Any ideas?

 

On what gun?

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1 hour ago, Lozart said:

 

On what gun?

My AM013, you can see the pics in the gun thread.

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2 minutes ago, Skara said:

My AM013, you can see the pics in the gun thread.

 

I'd say the barrel nut is bottoming out before it's properly clamped the barrel then. You need to shim the barrel between the receiver and the barrel flange or the nut itself so it doesn't run out of threads before it's properly tight.

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12 hours ago, Valentine said:

Like so, doesn't have to be functional if needs must so long as it looks better, the main draw being its already two toned so I can get it tomorrow and its at a discount that puts it within range of my wallet since gunfire have broken the dboys g001 I ordered so getting a refund on that one that'll cover most of the cost of this cyma

 

Man, you are unlucky.

 

You should hunt for this then:

https://www.evike.com/products/53863/

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59 minutes ago, Lozart said:

 

I'd say the barrel nut is bottoming out before it's properly clamped the barrel then. You need to shim the barrel between the receiver and the barrel flange or the nut itself so it doesn't run out of threads before it's properly tight.

Meh, solved.

 

There are 5 little grains keeping the outer barrel together, 2 per side and one on top.

The top one was loose -.-

 

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9 minutes ago, emilianoksa said:

My aegs (LCT and G&G GC16) are known to have weak motors.

 

Since I only run them on nimhs is there any point in changing those motors?

 

I suspect not.

 

I'd go for the general method of if it ain't broke then don't fix it tbh, if you don't plan on upgrading to lipo batteries I'd say there's not much point changing it until you have to

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4 hours ago, emilianoksa said:

My aegs (LCT and G&G GC16) are known to have weak motors.

 

Since I only run them on nimhs is there any point in changing those motors?

 

I suspect not.

 

I'm pretty sure most motors can stand a 7.4v LiPo.

 

Change them only if you plan on using heavy springs + high voltage batteries, 11.1v and high discharge ratings (the "c" number)

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21 hours ago, emilianoksa said:

My aegs (LCT and G&G GC16) are known to have weak motors.

 

Since I only run them on nimhs is there any point in changing those motors?

 

I suspect not.

 

 

Most likely "weak" as in poor performance not weak as in "not robust". They'll be fine. Run them until they do break, THEN put higher quality motors in.

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Sniper rifle slings.

 

Which ones are worth looking at?

What makes a good "sniper" sling?

 

I'm thinking about creating one myself with a crap load of paracord, using the same weaving used in bracelets.

Tips? Advices? Insults?

 

I may as well attempt something like this to use with my plate carrier/backpack 

 

599a47e6726f73ec3baccea8566ecefd--paracord-knots--paracord.jpg

il_570xN.363031529_jlft.jpg

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Quick Question:

 

I have a JG MP5 with what is likely the JG Black Ferrite motor. I also have a spare TM EG1000 ferrite motor. Both are rated for the same TPA at 22. 

 

Will I see any increase in performance with the Eg1000? Or will it just be a bit quieter? 

 

I was going to use the armature of the EG1000 in a frankenmotor project. But if I get a decent performance increase using it in the MP5 then I will scrap that idea. 

 

Cheers!

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2 hours ago, Samurai said:

The JG motor is not that bad and the EG1000 is not that good.

The sound of it comes from the pinion gear, not from inside the motor.

 

I compared both to them, the JG magnetic strength was very very weak in comparison. The TM had no problems being picked up from the table under its own magnetism. Put it into the Mp5. Much better trigger response, though slightly slower rate of fire. Does seem to be a bit quieter as well! 

 

Just need to change over to Deans and to lipos later on and I should get some of that ROF back. Happy days! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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are they any decent after market LAM units for the TM mk23.... that dont involve me spending a year trying to solder a new bulb in!!!! :lol:

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Another question, if I am selling something for cheap on Classifieds which has alot of interest. Do I?;

 

A; Sell it to the first person who makes an offer.

 

B; Some sort of bidding process so everyone who's interested has a fair chance. However will work out more expensive.

 

I don't want to rip people off but I origionally bought the gun for 6 times the advertised price.

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