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HPA Tank question


CaptainDumbass
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I fully understand how a polarstar engine works but i have no clue what so ever about how the hose/line, regulator and hpa tank work.

Im guessing the line just carries the air from the tank to the engine and the regulator adjusts the air flow or whatever (im not too sure), but i have no idea about the HPA tank and the numbers like "62/3000" or "90/4500" or psi or whatever it is. Can someone explain all of this to me?

Cheers

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If you understand the polarstar bit you might get a lot more help from the p........

 

cough cough

 

ppppp.......

 

eurgh (sick in mouth)

 

paintballing forums seeing as they use that setup more than we do.

 

Off to take a shower now as I feel dirty at the use of that word!

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when you squeeze the trigger, I think a valve opens and allows air to flow out and into the polar-star-whatever-model-you-have.

 

62/3000 and 90/4500 are like the capacity of the tanks.

 

the 62 and the 92 refer to the physical size of the tank in cubic square inches i think, not too sure. Obviously, the bigger the better but too big won't be useful, like tits.

 

3000 and 4500 refer to the compression or PSI (pounds per square inch). This means how much air can be squeezed in and safely hold without going kabooooooom. In this case, the bigger, the better until it goes boom.

 

So in the two numbers you gave, the 90/4500 has more physical capacity and actual air capacity inside than the 62/3000 but that would mean that it is bigger and more bulky, and the 62/3000 would have the edge on lightweight.

 

Also consider your physical size and strength and how obstructive it is, if you can't stay running for more than a few hours (with rests in between obviously), and don't like a huge tank of HPA behind your back that you could crush and go KABOOOM, then a smaller tank is for you.

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They need to be refilled, by you, the problem is finding places to do it. One choice would be to buy a large diving cylinder and fill from that but.... they are expensive and you really need a series of them to get the most out of your HPA tank. Alternatively you could visit one of those sites for silly people that like baggy clothes and silly coloured pellets and get them to fill it for you.

 

There are pumps but they cost a fortune and require regular maintenance, they aren't very efficient.

 

That was where we drew blanks with this system.

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Actually if you're patient you could get a 2nd hand diving tank pretty cheap, like £50-60. Don't do it though. Unless it's a minigun, there should never be a tube connected to a gun. To the dark side a slippery slope it is...

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If you have a local dive shop then they often have used tanks that they will sell you and also fill on a periodic basis for a few quid for you, do bare in mind however that dive tanks, no matter what purpose you have them for have to be certified and tested every 1or 2 years, I can't remember the exact time frame, without the correct stamp on the tank no one will fill it for you, 300 BAR is a lot of pressure to have lying round in something untested, to fill the small tanks you will need a regulator and line, again all available from dive shops or from the major air rifle dealers, I suspect it's the same systems we used to use on per charged air rifles

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3000 and 4500 are the maximum working pressures which are 200 and 300 bar respectively.

 

The first number is the amount of gas in the cylinder. The internal capacities will more than likely be the same as will the external dimensions. Given the higher pressure there will be more gas in the 4500.

 

Surface use cylinders require testing every 5 years and can be filled by scuba shops. Surface use cylinders can be identified by the type if cylinder valve. Scuba shops can generally source the appropriate valves and filling whips.

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