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Chrisso

Help Needed - AEG Battery

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Hey Guys Originally posted a thread like this:

I a massive noob when it comes to AEG's
And im really just seeking some answers and advice,
I am very interested in the GR16 Wasp by G&G as shown here:
http://www.zerooneai...roducts_id=6265
Have Decent FPS and nice construction/reviews and fairly cheap for what im looking for.
My question would be what is the Maximum Battery strength i could use for such a gun..
it has: Gearbox Version (GBV): 2
Which is aparently "the latest Gen"...
I am ideally looking at a 11.1 v lipo around 1200/1300 MaH But i have had mixed thoughts on wether the battery is
too powerfull for the gun itself..
if anyone could tell me what the strongest battery is thats compatible (ideally a lipo, and ideally strong (11.1v) i would appreciate it.
Also, if you find it at any better price please make me aware. :) thanks guys

But After the Feedback i decided to look for a different gun,
I have read from external sources that say this gun has a very decent Gearbox And is Full metal. and is claimed to have a MOSFET installed,
I would just like confirmation from you guys that it does Infact Have a MOSFET,
And would be able to handle a 11.1v LiPo with ease/without a high chance of messing up the gearbox
(would be great if you could link the best type)
Also just to verify. it takes a Mini or 3 type battery?
Thanks for your previous feedback

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No mention of a mosfet in the description and none shown in the exploded diagram.

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with the G&G guns it is the gen3 guns that have mosfets, not gen2

 

 

... I have just purchased their LR300 Sport Rifle as a gen3, except for it's crap fps it is a cracking gun (around 300fps) give it another 30-50fps and it;ll be jamming :-)

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with the G&G gen 3s they say an 11,1v LiPo is too much for it even tho it has the mosfet as it causes double feeding. a 7.4v LiPo works great tho, maybe a 9.9v life battery would be ok.

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with the G&G guns it is the gen3 guns that have mosfets, not gen2

 

 

... I have just purchased their LR300 Sport Rifle as a gen3, except for it's crap fps it is a cracking gun (around 300fps) give it another 30-50fps and it;ll be jamming :-)

I was talking about the ASR 111 having the MOSFET not the G&G Wasp

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ahh, soz. The latest gen APS guns do have a mosfet as standard. I have the Umerax Mini Patriot which is an APS gun and until I messed with it, it was the best aeg I have ever used. The gearbox is very loose which is why I opened it up so I could re-shim it but that is where my down fall was, it seems to need to be loose for the good performance. The blowback when it was working initially was fantastic but a ;lug broke inside te gearbox which luckily avoided the gears but could have been a disaster.

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the mosfet fitted may allow an 11.1v cell, but could still double feed like the G&G does.

 

TBH on any standard gun mosfet or not I'd not be wanting an 11.1 LiPo in it without fitting a hi-torque motor as the very least

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Steel gears and a decent piston at least for an 11.1V LiPo or something will die soonish.

 

Then you'll also need a sector gear delayer chip to stop the speed at which the air nozzle moves preventing BB's from making it out of the feed tube into the barrel.

 

Sooner rather than later you'll need a replacement cutoff lever and who knows how well the little springs will hold up? Best get a set of SHS ones while the gb is open and the anti-reversal latch will wear faster to, although many other things should give way before the ARL actually completely fails to work.

 

You should also shim your gears properly to make sure that excess movement doesn't cause excessive wear on one side of any of the gears and also to make it sound more like a machine and less like a cat in a tumble dryer.

 

But the main issue here is what their MOSFET actually does. I suspect it just handles power, ie it is simply a solid state replacement switch for the main battery power instead of it running across the trigger contacts, which is a good thing, don't get me wrong, but not what's needed to tame an 11.1V LiPo. The problem is that when you lift your finger off the trigger there is a magnetic field all around the coils of the motor and the energy held in it doesn't just disappear instantly when the current is turned off, plus there is a degree of momentum in the gearbox parts involved. An 11.1V LiPo makes the box run with sufficient power that, unless these problems are dealt with, it will carry on cycling for a shot or or two after you release the trigger and also fire full-auto when the selector is set to semi.

 

What you need is an Active Breaking MOSFET which causes the motor to stop either immediately, or at some precise time after, the trigger is released (a common upgrade is for the chip to sense through the relative current load during the entire cycle whereabouts the relaxed spring position is and keep the motor spinning until it reaches that position).

 

Oh yeah, and your link seems to be broken :(

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