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No, trying to get back into it. I haven't been playing for years and the site I used to play at is basically non-existent, Invasion Airsoft. I know there's a woodlands site but I never see anything about games there and the owner has been teasing a new/old CQB site for a while with no info. AFAIK, it's just a shop these days.

I'm taking a mate, from north Shropshire, to Gatwick airport tomorrow afternoon. She'll get dropped off at about 19:00. Is there anything of note that would make it worthwhile staying over to see on the Friday? Or anything on the Thursday evening? Not necessarily airsoft either. I sort of fancy a night away but get bored very easily. Ta

I don't know anything about ICS hops; however, I do know that Unit 13 are pukkah.

Followup: Should be sorted now with a smallish AK2M4 care package. The gearbox shell continues to surprise, it seems less Chinesiumy than most, and was quite resistant to being radiused. What a bizarre decision to fit crappy plastic bushings with a decent (but unradiused) shell, gears and piston. The shell also has some helpfully-annoying posts intended to keep the very thin stock wiring in place that need removed in order to use anything chonkier. The notchy semi trigger (also reported by other owners) is down to the safety lever that blocks the trigger tending to stay very slightly raised when the selector on (or around) semi. It should wear down, or just nudge the selector a tiny fraction more towards auto. As an aside for the "wut spring 2 get maxumin powar?" question, with the stock spring, plus a new bearing guide, o-ring nozzle, Specna rotary hop (I think), Maple Leaf bucking and a ~330mm 6.00mm[*] barrel, the no-hop power with 0.28g went from <1J to >1.25J (adding some hop brings it under 1.2J for my regular woodland sites, although I may not get under 1.13J with properly hopped 0.2g for CQB ). Air seal is king. But good God, it's time consuming to work on, with so much take-down and put-back to do anything. I nearly wept when I realised that I'd put the gearbox back for the eleventeenth and what I thought was the final time before fitting the hop and barrel, despite repeating to myself "Put them back as a unit" over and over. [*] An XT from AK2M4, labelled as 6.02mm from a sample batch that came out under-sized and was sold as such for a bargain price - it is indeed a proper tite-boi.

(full disclosure - I make chronographs) 0.66J vs 1J with 0.28gram is 225fps vs 277fps That's a huge amount of difference in terms of timing. Most of the manufacturing tolerances & timing uncertainty in designs is typically ~10-15fps when shooting 1000fps, with sensor spacing of 50-100mm or so. 50fps at that slow speed is something outside of a chrony's usual issues If it was gas - that could definitely cause an issue, anything that is a liquid & expanding can leave a vapour cloud & cause issues with optical sensors - typically you get high readings as the vapour can move faster than the BB. I'd say the chrony has a fault, take it to the field with you next time & compare side by side to rule out the conditions on the day. You could also possibly open it up & see if you can clean the sensors - cue tip & alcohol should be enough.

Also make sure you have some silicone grease for the orings as well... I sell a little kit but you use anything that's suitable for orings. You want the fitment on the nozzle to be tight but not overly tight where it restricts movement. Same with the oring on the piston head, needs to seal but not be too tight.

Go in this order: pick hop rubber pick barrel fix possible air leaks pick spring. You'll be amazed at how many FPS you can squeeze out of a M90 spring when your compression set is air tight Hop rubber wise, first choose a bb weight you're comfortable with, it could be anything from 0.25g to 0.32.. I personally use 0.32s for everything except my Well minigun (0.25s, it's a rather expensive gun to run), regardless of the situation/field. Then pick something that will actually lift the desired weight. I personally use Maple Leaf Super Macarons in 70° hardness, 60s do work well too, 50s are too soft and cause issues. MRs can work too although I had issues with them. Next, don't pick an ultra tight barrel (6.02 is borderline too tight imo) otherwise you'll be at higher risk of jams and mayhem inside the gearbox. In my experience 6.05 is the best diametre. Sort any air leak and replace components accordingly (most likely the nozzle, buy one with o-rings, keep it polymer though). At this point you can change the spring to match the desired power output.

Firing in semi wouldn't change anything really. If you wanted to really release spring tension, open the gearbox and use a screwdriver to poke the anti-reversal latch.

if your goal is to play cqb then frankly any modifications tailored towards range are usually irrelevant. that means fps and for the most part hop/ammo upgrades won't really net you anything that's really useful. unless you're shooting comically low you're probably going to get more out of more games with more experience than from spending money on parts that won't help you.

If any of the multitude of VFC teching videos are anything to go by, the piston probably fits like a dick in a shirt sleeve. How up for ripping it apart and tinkering are you?

At first I was very surprised to hear this, but then remembered the election is coming lol. Glad to not see any predictably emotional way-OTT rants in this airsoft forum thread. 😂 It's all public knowledge that the MOD has been closing/selling bases and shrinking on pers numbers at a steady rate for decades, though as with anything if you're not serving in the affected branch then the majority of the population naturally won't be aware of everything. Physically we are.. tight on space, i.e. physical barrack blocks on stations (all 3 services), even for the current cohort. Same story for instructors; lots of legal boxes to tick for being allowed to train young people, as mentioned above. I presume back in the 50s there were tons of camps with thousands of Nissen huts left over from the war to shove folks in for their 2 years; the war time military was just sort of stretched/dragged out a big. Definitely a challenge to just go back in to it now, but when you're looking at a very decent possibility of an election loss then I guess the 'big ideas' suddenly all come out. The wording is that the kids in the military would be full time so they'd have to get paid, and as with anything in life that significantly challenges you most folks come out the side overall better for it and it's not like they'd be on the front lines having a really bad time. You'd at least come out with some skills, experience and more interesting stories whereas the weekend volunteers presumably wouldn't be getting paid given the use of the word volunteer. Seems iffy to say the least in a lot of respects, since you're just forcing these kids to work for free, they won't add much value most likely given the minimal training they'd get and the inevitable risk aversion to giving them any responsibility. Plus they'll need to be trained and managed and the overall scheme is actually going to cost tons of money even though the 'volunteers' aren't getting paid. Yeah that'll kill most of the youth vote for the Conservatives big time, so presumably they're banking on the older turn out, probably pretty standard battle lines there.

Give us some fps stats, also have you changed anything (I can see a spring in the video), is it all stock etc etc etc.

Probs best off sticking with Gardeners World. I jest of course (although Monty Don is hard to stop watching). Does it get better? Yes, in the sense that the character development works quite well for what it is - light entertainment in an "America, FUCK YEAH" style. If you're expecting anything much beyond that then no, you'll be disappointed. I like it, but then I'm happy to switch my brain off in front of the TV from time to time (apart from when they show someone looking through a red dot and overlaying a sniper reticule, that really gets me going).

TM Glock Slide Metal 1911 slide 2 off brand hi capa slides (alot of worn paint) Metal Glock outer barrel 1 stippled Glock lower 1 badly stippled Glock lower Black TM outer barrel TM extreme slide 2 random 1911 BBU's A bell 1911 with TM slide, after market BBU and gold slide catch (terrible on gas) like all 1911's! KJW MK1 with standard stock and 3D Printed stock for silencer (never skirmished)

hello, im relatively new to airsoft so please forgive my terminology. i recently purchased my first RIF, the VFC Avalon Rapier. i decided the upgrade the spring to a m120 as the stock FPS was bad, after that i have ran into an issue, after maybe an hour max of use, on a trigger pull i will get two beeps from the gear box and then the RIF will not shoot. ( sometimes it will do it on a fully charged battery also ) i haven't been able to find anything to help me with diagnosis of what the beep codes mean for this gearbox, i am only running it on a 7.4v so my suspicions are maybe i need to be using a 11.1 because of the spring change?. i am hoping someone may know what the two beeps mean exactly before i start purchasing more batteries etc. Thanks IMG_9203.MP4

https://projectairsoft.co.uk/products/utr45-m917g-drum-magazine As far as I know this is the only 'other' UTR magazine I've seen, although apparently it takes G&G PCG45 mags too? Haven't tried anything apart from the stock magazines and while they've been fine for me I'm not exactly running fast RPS or anything. This video from JHQ has a pretty spicy DSG setup that's still running the standard mags and they seem to be keeping up okay?