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No idea if that site is a legit seller but they are nothing to do with Tokyo Marui. They famously have nothing to do with anything outside Japan.

While i love TM kit above anything else, if i was looking for a full metal variant, I'd rate KJW stuff way above the the likes of WE etc.

Pure theoretical question that is in no way related to anything in real life. If you sold a relatively low value item on the forum, and chose to save yourself 50-60p on postage with Evri rather than the standard and reliable Royal Mail, and that item then got lost (shock horror), would you refund the buyer as soon as possible as to avoid negative feedback or public shaming? Or, would you claim that you are the victim and make the buyer wait until Evri (the best logistics company ever) refunds you before passing that on to your buyer. Or, would you just refund the buyer up front as a common curtesy and worry about the refund from Evri in the background as it's your own problem for being as cheap as possible on delivery. Head spinner - opinions sought

Hi, so always wanted to do airsoft but never really got round to it. Recently got an opportunity to buy in from a family member who was stopping so thought why not. Have bought pretty much everything he owned airsoft wise so i have a rifle and 2 pistols but I'm looking for advice on good websites to buy from, good shop sites, ranges etc in the north west, I'm located in Lytham St Annes, next door to Blackpool. I currently have... CM16 SRXL AEG Red edition - 7 mags, various sizes and a small scope, couple of batteries and charger Tokyo marui mk23 socom - 5 gas mags Secutor rudis 1911 - 2 extended gas mags Tactical helmet with full face visor Vest with various pockets etc Belt with couple of ammo pouches thigh holster various bbs a tracer unit Is there anything else you would say I need to get short, medium term? Thinking a chrono as I have no idea what anything fires? Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm new here! <waits for applause to die down> I bought this gun from boneyard hoping to get a £130 pistol for £30. I ran a few BB's through it yesterday and pulled it apart to see if something jumped out at me. The mag inserts, seats, feeds fine. The slide is pulled forward with enough force to have everything in battery. The trigger pops the hammer, the valve releases the gas, the hop throws a BB out through the barrel, and the slide goes rearwards ... And that's where it goes wrong. The slide cycles limply a few times without firing a BB, then I have a gas spraying disappointment in my hand. I assume this is from cooldown. The culprit seems to be the valve knocker not returning with the slide cycling. The trigger bar is worn to silver, but doesn't look bad enough to need replacing (I could be wrong, I'm not an expert, so I've included pictures). To forestall a few obvious things: I'm on propane in a new mag, everything is lubed enough. The hop is applied. The barrel is clean, the hop rubber seals, the nozzle, slide, trigger, and hammer move freely. The knocker moves freely except when it's stuck in the forward position, which I'm pretty sure it shouldn't stay in after the first shot. Pictures are of the knocker with the hammer cocked, and with the hammer down. I've tried moving the knocker into the correct place manually but it seems to be catching on something. I don't know enough about this system to confidently say where or how it should sit, and what is stopping it, this is just my guess from knowing that it shouldn't be at rest depressing the valve with the hammer back. This is why I'm asking you, the kind people of the t'Interwebs for your help and opinions. More than happy to test anything you need to know. Thanks for any help offered. Worst case scenario here is I replace the trigger bar, then the hammer, then the other little fiddly parts until it works.

I would not buy anything from that company.

Anybody heard anything about this thing_http://taap-shop.net/ Looks like a snappy AEP _ with 11.1 and precock. Might bee and old and maybe dead company but i cant tell web site in in Japan

Tbh, a brass cylinder isn't the worst, i'd take brass over alu any day. The key is internal bore quality, smooth and clean with no scratches, the enigma of e&l cylinders notwithstanding (they look like they should be crap due to machining marks but are anything but) Hmm, might be indicative of an issue. Aoe is one option, other is pme although if it's a stock box and motor then probably not the latter. Whilst a lot is said about aoe correction and the whole ethos of stuffing 5mm of sorbo into every gun you touch is kinda bs, it is worth taking some time to look at how the sector engages the piston and that it's a smooth pickup. I like to aim for flat-flat, ie the face of the tooth and the face of the piston meeting with full engagement. A good way can be to "feel" the pickup, assemble the box with the piston, cylinder and geartrain but no spring/tappet plate/col, then turn the box by hand and feel how the initial pickup of the piston is compared to once it's been picked up and being pulled back. Ak2m4 does shims to adjust aoe which are the best method imo, although you want to take care that the piston head can still centre on the piston properly if it needs a bunch of them. Consistent is good. It might be time to consider the spring, if you don't know what strength it is then it might be as simple as it's just wimpy, plenty of pews i've had with fps downgrades have been a case of pull the stock spring, slap in some coiled pasta and call it a day. Ofc springs aren't always going to be what their rating is on the packet, mis-labelling or different box configurations for preload can end up with quite a range, eg having a thrust bearing on both spring guide and piston versus no thrust bearings. That said, what you don't want is to be compensating for leaks by just throwing energy at the problem as it'll just beat up the box with no benefit so the goal is to get yojr energy target with the weakest spring you can. Generally the only downside to a longer nozzle is when it gets long enough to cause feeding issues by not clearing the feed tube, might be worth dropping the 21.03 in see what it does.

As others have posted, use it for at least 1 full game day before looking at potential upgrades. This will give a better idea of what, if anything, needs changing. That being said, the most likely things that'll need changing will be the hop rubber and spring. Fortunately these are both easily done

Sounds like your motor is too low, so it just barely engages the bevel gear (read it's chewing it away). Whenever you adjust the motor height, you should: a) plug the weakest battery you own to minimize emotional collateral damage; b) start with the motor HIGH, that way should anything happen it'll just stop instead of shredding something. Keep adjusting (read unscrewing) by a quarter turn at the time until the sound is crisp/not as scratchy, if you keep going you'll hear the sound change to a low-ish note of scratching, this means you've gone too far and the motor is now too low. Find the sweet spot in the middle. Cut-off is not near the motor, it's next to the trigger and doesn't affect noise.. You probably meant the anti reversal latch, which engages the bevel gear, but that generally doesn't do anything apart from wearing itself out at a stupid angle. A worn anti reversal is recognizable because every time the gun stops firing you'll hear the gears slowly spin in reverse under tension from the main spring and the next shot will be a double feed.

'The standard' is to turn your hop fully off then just go from the front. Long as you're not using anything abrasive and are careful/gentle/don't go ham fisted at it then it'll be absolutely fine, nothing adverse is going to happen.

HI. Brand new to Airsoft. Just bought my first AEG, a KWA EVE 9. Just wondering if there's anything I need using it. Or am I good to go?

I have had to shim the back of my baby Specna's mag well with layers of electrical tape to help some of my mags sit forward enough to feed. My ICS L85, DE M904 seem happy with anything. Our big Specna seems less fussy. The boy's ICS L85 is a little fussy, btu all he does it take the mag out and reinsert it.

What's your budget roughly? Knowing that will help us make specific recommendations The cheap red dots often have the problem of ghosting, this is where a second dot is visible due to reflections between the glass. If the dot is adjustable lowering the brightness can reduce the effect Anything by Acetech will be good. Alternatively the nuprol trasers are good but they're not as bright and don't have the extra functions Any cheap on from amazon will do the job. It's a sacrificial part so there's no point spending more than necessary I use the pistol mag size ones. No idea on the brand, sorry I know alit of people slag them off but I've never had any problems with nuprol batteries. Their chargers on the other hand I wouldn't touch with a barge pole. Alternatively turnigy or vapex

That looks like a Specna Arms SA-E23. If anyone knows i'm talking mad shit, please correct me, but the 'slots' you can see at the 3, 6 and 9 positions are m-lok. There's plenty of attachments that are m-lok. If you can't find m-lok attachments, there are m-lok to RIS rail sections that exist so you can attach just about anything. The top rail is standard 20mm RIS/RAS AFAIK which will accept just about most accessories.

Welcome to the addiction that is the GBB M249 , they are soooo much fun ! Mine is still running completely stock internals and so far I'm getting away without the NPAS that I've got but not fitted yet. Although my local site does just work to the legal limits so I'm ok up to 1.3j . I had an issue with the gas block from the box mag popping loose (STANAG is absolutly fine) and the replacement mag catch has fixed that. It seems to be luck of the draw, some have had the issue, some have not. Stock hop is working fine for me, range is decent and it's hopping the .30's I run in all my GBBs easily and will go heavier. Not done the spring thingy mod as tbh I am happy with a bit of spraed in a support weapon. So far I've not had anything fail, so spares wise I've not bought any. However do make sure you follow the 'rules' on cocking it before installing the BB mag which reduces the chance of nozzle damage. I think we all only run one box mag at a time so dont need anything to carry another. The green gas box mag hold ALOT of gas, I've never emptied it in a game. Bear in mind it's limited ammo , so short bursts which also help cooldown .

Hey all, having trouble with my rig, can't figure out where these bloody straps go etc. How do you secure anything?

I built this for a buddy who no longer needs it, but I know ZERO about MK23’s, the market for them or bits for them. I know the pistols are easily the worst I’ve ever used, but a few special individuals love them lol So, does it have any market appeal, is it worth anything? cheers in advance

Yeah fair point. Not done anything to it since I brought it off a seller. I think it was thrown together with bits from the Airsoft fair