Sitting Duck

Stitch me up - think you need about 6 maybe a dozen
 
Ian and some others got some done from there - good stuff
on FaceBook blah blah blah

I'm sure these easy ways to work stuff out is pretty damn accurate & no calculator
or degree in mathematical engineering required

I have checked them and the gears ratio saves a major headache indeed
(unless you love counting up tiny teeth - 21 22 23 23 - no crap start again 1 2 3)
 
Count amount of turns on bevel gear to rotate the sector gear 1 full revolution & multiply by 3
checked this against stock, high speed & high torque gears - works out very well
and finally figured out wtf all them 100:200 & 100:300 gears bloody mean as well
 
Then just recently noticed how the port on cylinder kind of works out right without
all that Pi r ² crap working out volumes of cylinder & barrel and ratios etc....

So please have a look and if your own gun is running well see if the cylinder port bit makes sense
eg: length to port minus 12mm aprox = say 30mm....
multiply that final figure by ten - yeah I think you shouldn't need calculator for that one
= 300mm barrel for that port position

yes there a few variables eg: Tight Bore & Bore up kits but in general these will only throw out figures
on volume ratio by about 1% to 1.5% max on each variable....
 
I have checked this against a few cylinders that are for certain barrels and it works out very well indeed
(it is that simple to me I dunno why peeps bother with old π r ² x cylinder/barrel length)
plus some programs for calculating ratios are not easy to understand or don't seem to work out right to me
(bit where you enter or measure cylinder length or port is a little unclear to me)
plus people saying oh yeah a 3/4 cylinder is for 363 to 410 - wtf ?
3/4 is not exactly very pinpoint accurate and range of nearly 2 inches is also a little wide too ffs
I think it is nigh on there with the 12mm figure subtraction is about correct - but the cylinder should have AOE done
(Should really do AOE anyway is the general feeling)
This adds aprox 4-5mm to say 6mm on cylinder head inside the cylinder itself - never mind go with 12mm for now ffs
(O-ring sits aprox 2mm back from piston and is what creates the seal really so just go for 12mm - trust me)
anyway here are the pics that should be speak for themselves

give us any feedback if you can though chaps.....




&



cheers for any feedback even if I am talking out of my ar$e one more

Just thought if anybody was putting together a gearbox these could come in handy
to suss out what gear ratio you putting in there (in case you forgot or lost the packet they came in)
and also if you got a cylinder knocking about but unsure what barrel it is supposed to be used with etc....

Yes they ain't 101% accurate but imho these 2 quick tests are bloomin' close without all the maths
 
EDIT - make that figure aprox 15mm NOT 12mm - my very bad
12mm is piston but aprox 3mm further back from piston is center of O-ring which in effect is where the compression is created
or rather not created until it passes the end of port - therefore it is the O-ring's start & finish or travel is what we are trying to work out
 
So measure front of cylinder to port and subtract 15mm not 12mm - then multiply by 10 = ideal barrel range chaps
 
EDIT - 2018, after reviewing my crap I revised this to 15mm for 0.20's and say 20mm subtraction for say heavier 0.30's

top top mofo
always worth shooting him a pm on here or FB
 
down to earth bloke with down to earth prices - yet shipping is bloody quick without silly postage costs
 
already covered:
http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/20130-wwwak2m4couk/#entry138973
 
but well respected on here
(if that don't get a super duper grovelling bonus loyalty discount then I don't know what will )

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same
& the guy's response is sort peew peew related...
 
 

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same
& the guy's response is sort peew peew related...
 
 

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same
& the guy's response is sort peew peew related...
 
 

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same
& the guy's response is sort peew peew related...
 
 

not quite a joke but I found it funny all the same
& the guy's response is sort peew peew related...
 
 

More and more technical issues, I am definitely cursed.
 
So the King Arms PDW does not like ZCI hop units, couldn't feed a single round.
 
The specna 933 acted funny all day, sounded shit in full auto (as if it was going to jam) so I stuck to semi.
 
Nonetheless I had fun today, the lack of confidence among team members is showing (we have mostly new/inexperienced people now) and we need to sort that out asap.
 
Next Sunday, PDW time (AK if I feel like it and the new high caps actually feed).
 
Meanwhile I need to stock 60° hop rubbers as 50s appear to be too soft for my 933.

Or just multiply the TWG price by 0.831
(Same meat different gravy)
 
£133.76 x 0.831 = £108.75 is what the price SHOULD be ex 23% VAT.
 
What they have done is knocked off 21% (just under)...
£110.59 x 1.21 = £133.89 (just under 21%) knocked off,
so TWG are likely skimming 2% admin fees...
 
Still cheap but not quite what it should be
 
 

Multiplication has been one of my favourite versions

Or just multiply the TWG price by 0.831
(Same meat different gravy)
 
£133.76 x 0.831 = £108.75 is what the price SHOULD be ex 23% VAT.
 
What they have done is knocked off 21% (just under)...
£110.59 x 1.21 = £133.89 (just under 21%) knocked off,
so TWG are likely skimming 2% admin fees...
 
Still cheap but not quite what it should be
 
 

bullpup rpk innit
 
 
or for those of us who cannot understand a concept unless stated in meme form:

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

that's because you're a toxic member who doesn't contribute anything to this forum.
 
oh wait, sorry wrong guy......
 
 
i dunno, apparently being new isnt the problem:
 
 

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

Whoa whoa whoa...
 
was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ???
 
now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows
 

Thanks for heads up, I was planning on leaving it uncocked and unloaded anyway due to small hands in the house (as funny as it would be to teach my son to breech and clear the house, I don't think the Mrs would think the same)

Just don't store it primed & ready for use, left in ya bag after game day
(yeah if you can remember those days)
 
One of mine was left primed for months (totally forgot about it)
when I went to use it, it had stuck & failed to to go BOOOOM after 5~7 secs
poured/squirted loads of WD40 & silicone in it but never worked 101% after it got stuck
 
so avoid being forgetful & leaving it primed in ya bag ready to use
 
They do a nice impact one "Dominator" that works on soft-ish ground better than O-Shi-Boom
but more bulky than O-Shi-Boom & others
Adapters for different blanks can be bought - but watch for revised adapters for older Dynatex
(I bought wrong ones - in the end made up a sleeve to use Cheddites .209 in my 9mm BFG)
 
soz for waffle - just avoid leaving it primed is the real message

I don’t know what you mean there 👀😁

Seeing as your goal in this venture was to learn to tech, you kinda went backwards.
 
First off use the standard tappet plate, nozzle, hop unit and bucking, this eliminates MANY variables.

Below 230mm barrel length you’re going to want to be at least one spring power rating higher than the spring is advertised as.
 
Next up as mentioned, you’re losing 15 FPS per SS tooth too.
 
Personally I haven’t used that motor, and you haven’t said what battery your on - but you don’t normally need to short stroke with a ‘torque’ motor on 12:1 ratio.
 
You say compression is excellent, is that to say the piston stops dead and rock hard a gnat’s cock past the cylinder port?

Also as @Sitting Duck said, always check the piston is free when changing from standard, and “maths, suggestions & bollocks aside, you need to go back and check EVERYTHING very very closely”