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Sitting Duck

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Posts posted by Sitting Duck

  1. On 10/04/2021 at 20:39, SLACK_JAW said:

    I was on the verge of selling this. But as much as I like my TK45C, the gun itself is a fantasy mashup and I've always loved the look of my CM FireHawk and short barrelled platforms. Believe me, this AEG is the shits out of the box (at least in my experience with it)....Trash outdated rotary style hop up, diabolical accuracy, abysmal trigger response and a stock that wobbles. 

    So I decided to make this seemingly shite Rifle "great again" Just blew almost 200 on the following:


    • Gate Titan V2 Mosfet
    • Prometheus Barrel hop-up and bucking
    • Flat trigger.




    Two scopes/red dot sights ???


    reminds me of...


    Bart's Testing Megaphones: Video Gallery (Sorted by Favorites) | Know Your  Meme


    to each their own, I like FH's too but as is,

    minimal look with a stubby stock etc...

    (buffer tube battery idea was not a great idea imho but ho hum & all that)

  2. Guarder SP110 = M120 Spring, so potential 394fps ???


    47rps ???


    I could see you clipping near 27rps on 7.4v,

    then maybe 41rps on 11.1v - but 47 is going some,

    Though a beefy C LiPo will give you extra zest,

    The flip side is the fancy ETU's tend to skim a bit of power,

    (each diode nicks 0.5-0.7v, turn on/forward voltage).



    30k ÷ 12.75 (ratio) will give you about 23.5rps,

    Squeeze a bit more out on 16awg/deans, shim well about 27rps,

    x 1.55 = maybe 42rps & I've smashed a piston at that speed

    even though it was short stroked 3 teeth ???


    So 47rps is going some, perhaps questionable,

    given that ETU's skim some juice

    & motors should make a difference...

    A 30k motor Vs a 18k G&G there will be a difference.


    Also forget bells & whistles a second...

    Set the Titan to do basic stuff, no AB, precock, burst etc...


    Grab a standard RC power meter,

    Plug that in and run a 5sec auto burst on 7.4v,


    NB 7.4v not 11.1v to check amps on meter in auto,

    coz the way the fancy MOSFETs report stuff varies.


    Yes the surge from still will be 80-90 amps,

    But overall the draw over a 5 sec period should,

    be below 20, about 17 amp if done well 12:1 30k.

    Draw will be lower on higher TPA motor,

    But G&G 18k grey will struggle on 7.4v as it's ferrite.


    The amp draw on 7.4v will be roughly the same as 11 1v,

    The amps don't change, but the wattage alters on 11.1v,

    Watts = Voltage X Amps 


    All you are doing is testing the amps on a meter,

    without risking smashing the piston at silly speed,

    Or excess heat being generated on a high amperage.


    Get the amps read from a meter on a 4-5 sec auto burst,

    Ensure it is below 20amps on a meter reading.


    Is the sector/gun short stroked ???

    Coz SP110 spring is near 400fps

    Yes you lose a bit on a 300mm barrel,

    But think you are losing some FPS somewhere too,

    Coz the gun is losing efficiency it is working more,

    on the SP110 or M120 spring unless SS'd 2-3 teeth.


    And if running inefficiently that 47rps is dubious,

    Unless motor is a High Speed one,

    Which would explain it a bit along with heat/amps...


    A number of things don't quite add up to me,

    The slightly higher rof on a higher spring,

    Lots of heat & killing batteries etc...

    Motors not making much of a difference ???

    (They should as you have a range of performance)


    Yeah some stuff ain't quite as it seems to me,

    So check the amps on a RC power meter/analyser...


    Seems like you have used a SHS lightened piston,

    so I wonder if the piston is binding quite a bit...

    Which would explain some things, heat, amps, some power loss...

    Yet this would effect the rps, which is quite high still...


    So yeah, some things are not quite adding up to me ???

  3. 18 hours ago, miserydrift said:

    and shes in boy this ones a bit diffrent for fitting u have to try it with just trigger and spur put it in receiver check it senses the sector trigger and selector then build it up fully







    jeeez my neck hurts looking at Australian builds...

    (rotate pic next time - pretty please)



    niiiiiiiccceeeeee btw

  4. Great - it's bad enough getting people to chrono their guns in time to play


    Now we will have teenagers/players whinging they can't get a decent signal

    so can't head out just yet - gimme a sec, nearly got 1 bar, whoa 4G too..

    Oh shit, it's gone again...

    hasn't this woodland site got free WiFi or can we not play with better coverage


    Man Searching Connection Signal Stock Video Footage - 4K and HD Video Clips  | Shutterstock


    meanwhile - SHIT we've been EMP'd or they got a counter UAV...


    Nope the owner is jamming the mobile signals

    coz he is getting fucked off with mobile muppets

    piss balling about and holding up next game


    nah - COD/Fortnite is one thing & peew peew is another

  5. Like everything I guess...


    TV's £300 no longer buys you a big ye olde box TV

    it no longer buys you a chunky flat screen

    but now a wafer thin 50" mofo HD with 4k option a little bit more


    Sure they aren't Sony, LG's etc... but fuck me they are not that far behind 


    £60 ~ £70 guns are ergh £60 ~ £70 guns still

    but point being the guns now at whatever price tag have improved loads

    and like TV's and shit you are getting a lot more better value for money


    Cheap or cost effective TV's or Cyma's or whatever have made others up their game


    Some of the slightly better Cyma's like Hi-Speed versions with 13:1's and say a 22tpa

    with a basic mosfet for say £35 more than a basic model

    represents good value for money as it would cost you that anyway

    (so some thought went into these gun model options)


    Can't comment on the more higher end metal M4's, but expect same applies


    I rated D-Boys which are Double Bell 416's a few years ago

    though at the time the hop was shit clear plastic and they have also made some improvements

    and unless you are trademark fan boy, then the D-Boys/Double Bell 416 is a nice cost effective gun

    (quite heavy as I own mostly cheapo light plastic guns - it is solid weighty 416 without trades)


    Double Eagle 904G's they are flogging that at fuck all mark up to make in roads

    and shift stuff in bulk to make money - £100 Honey Badger with basic bells & whistles

    fuck me, how many of those are gonna show up on game days after lockdown


    but most stuff & makes have upped their game from a few years ago

    you are getting more bang for your buck

    (or more higher res pixels for ya dosh)


    Cyma have just continually upped their game and most importantly

    sensibly upped their game making steady improvements bit by bit

    to result in a lot of decent sturdy cost effective guns for various budgets


    But be careful trying to contact Cyma's customer service department

    as this is how the conversation might go...




    Kidding btw - but still fucking funny

  6. worn Cut Off Lever or stick trigger switch/trolley getting stuck in contacts ???


    we talking DSG HC05 or something daft


    we are talking about std FH and if so it might have the 8 tooth bevel in it

    (they also do a 9 tooth bevel as well as the regular 10 tooth bevel)

    8 toothimage.jpeg.ca9b55195a3f9d68e917c7ad5c65e23b.jpeg


    9 toothimage.jpeg.73d75cc348715a8f7a2005358b6cd2b4.jpeg

    10 toothimage.jpeg.e138a7be174d506454a9cf945e4b1cf6.jpeg


    weird eh ???

    Sure when I opened up a reg FH it was an 8 tooth in there

    so it pulled spring easier but gave the ratio 22.38:1 than 18.65:1

    hence some launch TT FH's were pretty snappy

    & others were not, most of them perhaps

    (grip is one give away, not always though, plus TT sticker in magwell)

    so was a bit lamer on a 7.4v than the Top Tech ones


    But even on a 11.1v you'd struggle to hit over 20rps on a modest FH

    and you can't fit much of a 11.1v in the stock tube


    so can't see the absolute need for AB myself

  7. 1 hour ago, miserydrift said:

    no wobble not to tight it fit pretty much bang on like the original 21.5 for the cyma blue ones and this is bang on 21.5 so perfect length aswell


    yeah man id measured then messaged ak about it before i ordered asked about a longer nozzle and he swapped it for the blue one that he sent which is this one https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/aols-m4-aluminium-nozzle-double-oring






    issue if the nozzle is tooooooo long, then even on full retraction there isn't say

    nearly 7mm in font of nozzle in hop unit to chamber/allow a bb to slip/pass & into bucking


    if the nozzle is tooooooooo short it feeds better, but shorter nozzle never quite seals on bucking

    resulting in fps loss as lips blow from lighter sealing pressure


    it will probably be fine with a small tiny tolerance - you get a bit of give n take

    if you get feed issues then you may have to fit delay clip or file nozzle lightly

    you might be OK on semi or slower speeds, on faster snappier guns feed issues can occur more


    sometimes you got a bit of leeway & others you have finer tolerance or tappet/nozzle window

    (don't worry about it - I over think shit way way way too much)


    give it a go and suck it & see as the saying goes, you'll probably be OK

    if not start a new thread for more of your toy gun headaches

  8. 2 hours ago, miserydrift said:

    compression kit from ak2m4 has arrived now to wait on the perun mosfets to arrive



    @Sitting Duck spoke with mr ak2m4 and hes sorted me out with a nozzle as close to the cyma length one as he had and  it fits perfect in the tappet plate :D



    Cool - no wobbly nozzle then ???

    coz the SHS ones I have - from Gunfire & decent Chinese sellers were a bit loose

    (snug in other tappets like SHS ones, but was loose in Cyma clear & recent blue tappets)

    had some snide lighter red/pink nozzles that were shorter & fit poorly in every tappet


    mind you the nozzles i got are a few years old I guess, even the SHS ones

    so if Pete's nozzles fit snuggly I'd be interested in grabbing a few myself


    POM nozzles that are too tight fit can distort if wedged into a tappet & lose good seal at o-ring

    it is the classic pita compatible crap - often stuff works alright but other times they don't go to plan

    (like the larger eyelet on Cyma switches, v3 spring guide in v2's, ultra loose as fuck cylinder head

    odd safety arm screw outside box, different tappet plate, possible qwirky nozzle, reinforced box for 13:1's

    piston head is alright once you change o-ring though)


    cheers for heads up - might drop Pete a line re nozzles

    1 hour ago, miserydrift said:

    scratch that its bang on same length as the cyma blue one i hadnt zero'd the calipers before i took measurment last time!



    21.4mm ish, it is in Luke's recent video

    but knew that anyway - it is around 21.4~21.45

    (common M4 nozzle, some use nozzles a little shorter like ICS & some others)


    in some boxes/builds it can a whisker too long

    hence measure nozzle and other stuff to compare it all

    but yeah Cyma's are usual 21.4mm

  9. On 28/02/2021 at 10:12, Red_Dog said:

    & stock gears & stock motor = grinding (this was not present before)


    well then it is "something" you have done with all the experimentation

    (pretty obvious - but if all back to stock & still shit then something has taken place)


    Only you know what you have done, likely the shimming/height is not the same as it was


    The only other thing I can think of is something else you altered/changed (& not mentioned)

    eg: new piston that is ultra fucking tight binding, causing extra drag/load

    (way more than a smidge higher spring)

  10. Be careful of them Magpul/PTS clone grip bollox

    I had a couple and some other aftermarket grips - they were shite

    motor sloppy as fuck, motor grip plate seem to shove motor way out of line with axle

    certain motor plates don't always fit other grips - despite looking the exact same


    So come to the conclusion that most often the stock grip is kept as it usually is fair good

    (sod changing grips to a more fancy looking one)


    Sounds like you might have a burr or slightly wonky gear or two also

    adding to stuff - sometimes a rebuild goes according to plan, almost completely flawless easy shimming

    other times it is nightmare after nightmare and have to go back with an ultra fine examination of everything


    Yes I fully understand how some motors, the way the armature is set on the motor's axle higher/lower

    results in some motors being nigh on the max/min limit in some guns/grips etc...

    also the springs on the motor tower can vary too, usually they compress right down to say just under 5mm

    (squishing them & measuring in a digital caliper)

    but others only compress down to say 6mm - so before you start the motor can be sitting 1mm higher

    due to a motor spring with more coils in it


    Then factor in the way armatures sit higher/lower on some motors and in middle of magnetic field

    (like SHS & ZCI)

    then no wonder swapping motors can result in a very different motor height setting

    and sometimes this can be beyond the tolerance of motor height adjustment on some guns/grips


    fucking nightmare it can be - I know some will be tempted to add some shims between grip/box

    to space the grip if motor sits way too high - well as temp fix or to see it if improves

    (I guess if you had 4 screw threads in box you could add 2 to left/right to slightly tilt motor angle)

    but really this is a temp fix/test or bodge trying to see if motor aligns a little better

    but really try another grip/motor/pinion/gear-set or something and go back over it all again


    end of the day you know by the sound if it is right or not, backed up by amp draw

    but you know when it sounds right - it's your own fault for being a fusspot when dealing

    with lapse Chinese tolerances is poxy toy guns

  11. 1 minute ago, 38super said:

     Thanks for the info. I'm running decent quality (Bad Wolf?) 0.30's chronoing at 300+/-5fps (not as consistent as it should be). I have put in ZCI plastic hop unit and 250mm barrel, and Maple Leaf MR/Omega combo and an SHS double o-ring nozzle. Accuracy is about 4 hits out of 5 on a 4 inch target at 15m but I've no idea how that compares to what  I should expect. I can't do longer ranges at the moment to play around with the hop so I've set it a what seems to give the best accuracy at 15m.

    The mosfet only supports burst fire, binary trigger and trigger sensitivity, no pre-cocking unfortunately. I don't know if it's possible to upgrade the mosfet.



    Thanks for the Maths tips, that post should be a sticky somewhere. I teach Maths and it's always a surprise to students that you either can't or don't need to be absolutely precise. The 250mm barrel I've got should be about right with 0.3's or at least not far enough off to be a major problem.


    What this probably needs is some empirical testing to test the guidelines and give some idea of confidence intervals.



    The gun is fine as it is, it is a very cost effective gun that has a few basic bells n whistles

    (prog burst, binary etc... plus the electronics take over with a quick flick/release it fires say 5 rnd burst)

    yes it doesn't have pre-cocking but c'mon, for the money you get good bang for buck

    considering a better optical mosfet unit is £60 upwards in a say £100~120 gun


    mosfet is bespoke so if it fucks up then replace with Perun optical but use it as is

    if you can find a really titchy 11.1v then run it on that for a bit of zest

    but the room in the 904G stock is bloody small, they could have made it a tiny bit thicker

    to accept a bigger/wider range of 11.1's

  12. Motor grip/angle is my hunch


    but tbh it could be anything, wire either side of motor

    loads of slack in the gearbox opening & motor tower

    so it thrashes about...


    Motor grip OK on gearbox out of receiver ???

    so the grip needs filing as it could be pulling when all fitted together to receiver ???

    tried marking the box with receiver & also grip to see if grip is too large ???


    something like the motor axle is not 101% inline with bevel axle,

    so it is running off centre or at a minor angle if motor slightly skewed


    I'd grab another grip if you got one, one that is pretty snug on box

    and doesn't have a massive motor entry point to the box

    so hopefully the motor is not able to thrash about once it all aligns

    (hopefully in sync & in line from motor axle shaft direct to the bevel axle

    so the bevel pinion is exactly at 6 o'clock & not offset)

  13. 8 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

    good to know, i know voluming tends not to be as sensitive for aeg's but can never remember the forumula.


    any time i'm changing a cylinder it's always a rummage through the box o' bits followed by "that looks about right"


    that's basically what all my maths n shit was all about

    a rough ball parky thingy to kinda say - yeah fuck it

    it's somewhere around that


    It's when cylinders use the type A, B, C, D bollox

    or 4/5 or 3/4 or 2/3 crap...

    coz I've looked at some and thought - yeah ???, looks more like 3/4 than 4/5

    or that type B looks like another claim of type D - too vague at times

    measure it, lop a bit off, x10 - yeah fuck it near enough in that range

  14. Are they going to bring out guns in football team colours or something

    trying to drum up support for team games after such a dry few months


    Then two teams can face off each other and chant...




    then row with the ref/marshals...


    FFS referee are you fucking blind...

    (or much much worse)


    as airsoft has young players in it at times and the importance of playing fair & respectfully

    here is a bit of a funny about kids football...




    At one point during a game, the coach called one of his 7-year-old football players aside and asked,

    “Do you understand what cooperation is? What a team is?
    The little boy nodded in the affirmative.

    “Do you understand that what matters is not whether we win or lose, but how we play together as a team?”

    The little boy nodded yes.

    “So,” the coach continued, “I’m sure you know, when a penalty is called, you shouldn’t argue,

    curse, attack the referee, or call him a dick head.”

    Do you understand all that?”

    Again the little boy nodded.

    He continued, “And when I call you off the field so that another boy gets a chance to play,

    it’s not good sportsmanship to call your coach ‘a dumb arse–hole’ is it?”

    Again the little boy nodded.


    “Good,” said the coach. “Now go over there and explain all that to your mother.”

  15. 17 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:


    it's ok man, this place uses 100% recycled pixels


    phew that's a relief coz 99% of my posts are me waffling on & on more than I need to

    using 101% of the same crap I've posted previously


    port is about say 43mm from front

    take off say 15mm = 28mm left

    multply by x10 = 280


    cylinder is about right for a 280mm barrel roughly

    dunno if he has the 210 stubby DE or a slightly longer one of say 310


    but yeah port is roughly about right for a precision built bit of airsoft engineering

    (sarcasm) or fuck it, chuck that it there and give to 5 year olds in the sweat shop to assemble for 50 cents per hour




    don't know if 15mm or 12mm or 20mm is correct - don't care too much these days

    but only ever a ROUGH GUIDE to begin with, but peeps usually got the gist of what I was hinting at

    (same as gear ratio checking, unless you really like counting teeth/maths n shit

    actually the gear ratio or 3 x bevel rotations works out very well tbh to arrive at real ratio)


    as said same ol' same ol' stuff most of the time

  16. 14 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

    not too up on the cylinder types, but given it's the stock cylinder it'll be setup for the stock 200mm barrel.


    @Sitting Duck knows the cylinder types better than i do.


    accuracy/range is a 3 factor problem:

    -the velocity of the bb- you want this to be decently close to the site limit (5-10fps doesn't matter so much but an 0.8j gun on a 1.3j site is gonna struggle), and as consistent as possible so every bb is going the same speed- this is down to part ammo quality and a big part air seal


    -the quality of the ammo- you want heavier ammo for range, and good quality for consistency, how heavy is up to you (if you're rich enough to yeet .48's then go for it) although for outdoor use in an assault gun the .3g range is a pretty decent balance between cost/performance. if you're playing indoors this doesn't quite matter so much.


    -the quality of the hop/barrel setup. you're off to a good start with the zci, very good performance for the money, the hop you'll need both for air seal (linking back to the first point) and enough traction to lift heavier ammo (linking to the second point), my usual reccommendation is up to the .32 range the pdi w-hop is a nice straight drop-in, or the more premium option which will lift whatever you like is the maple leaf macaron with omega nub combo. often you don't need a new hop unit and a bit of twiddling can get everything flying straight.



    trigger response seperately can be acheived in a number of ways.


    i see that's got an optical mosfet, i'm guessing this is the titan clone negative airsoft mentioned in his latest video. don't know what it's specs are but if it has an option for precocking then you're laughing because that's the first and single biggest step for a snappier semi-auto trigger.


    things like high speed gears/motor swaps will boost the auto rate of fire, but won't be nearly as potent for semi response if the gun has a precock set up unless you're jerry miculek and can spam the trigger faster than the gun can cycle.


    don't tag me into this - I'm trying to reduce my carbon footprint/bandwidth for lengthy replies


    nah it's all about right I reckon volume wise, could SS 2 teeth off the 3 steel tooth

    but why complicated stuff if it all works on OK, just run it on a titchy 11.1v and should be alright


    Good sharing btw...



  17. 1 hour ago, Cr0-Magnon said:

    @Sitting Duck - You weren't far off. With a fully charged 7.4, I was getting 750rpm. On a 11.1 it's bumped up to 1200. Which is about perfect for me and doesn't seem crazy fast.


    750rpm = 12.5rps

    12.5 x 1.55 = 19.375rps


    it is ROUGHLY about 55% on a 11.1v compared to a 7.4v

    BUT different batteries/burst/capacity & brand can produce a bit of difference


    As said torquey 27tpa on 11.1v you get a bit more than 55%

    crazy speed motors a little bit less as there is a limit to motor performance


    somewhere between 18rps to say 24rps is about right imho

    without being a dick - plenty of snap without risk of getting slapped if go a bit nutz

    twenties is plenty & all that


    Cyma AK 028 with fixed stock, jam a schottky diode across motor

    (if you can't be arsed to install a mosfet)

    and just use 11.1v - snap without going too nutz or chucking loads of money at it


    if/when she plays up, then consider upgrades & decent 7.4v

    but 11.1v on lame motor (with diode/mosfet) is an easy cheap boost


    just bought some of these last week when they were on offer at £6...




    fucking short balance lead but £6 - c'mon



  18. With lame or low speed motors you gotta use 11.1v to get some snap


    it won't go nutz, just about x 1.55 of what 7.4v speed/rof is

    so 11rps on 7.4v will equate to around 17rps on similar spec 11.1v

    might nudge 18rps if lucky as high tpa motors spin a bit more on 11.1v

    and low tpa motors spin a little less that x1.55 on higher lipo's


    it is to do with max efficiency/potential of motor being reached on different motors

    but general rule of thumb is 11.1v is about 1.55 rof over a 7.4v lipo


    it is going to be a 27tpa/18k motor in there say

    so 11.1v will kick it up to say 28,000rpm

    hardly insane rpm - so should be OK

    though very fast motors like 40,000+ will spin ultra quick & brushes will wear faster


    putting more juice/volts through it & higher rpm will cause the brushes to wear a bit more

    but 18rps is not too mental imho & you need it somewhere near that as 11rps is too low

    when in the thick of it all kicking off


    and if/when eventually the old stock motor craps out, shove in a better one & 7.4v



  19. The original ETU - and by that I mean the Electronic Trigger Unit inside box


    has one power/supply that is sent to all 3 original switches trigger, selector position & Cut Off Lever

    so in the end the mosfet unit receives back 3 signals on/off from the 3 switches

    which the mosfet/control unit then processes accordingly


    the mag empty switch would I think basically kill or break/open the trigger circuit so it no longer fires

    (or no longer sends a signal back to unit even if trigger is pulled coz mag switch has "opened" the circuit)


    The selector plate in ETU guns are semi only - meaning the COL is always popping each cycle

    or the selector plate has the extra material removed for a DMR mod


    if you go back to old school then an ETU selector will need replacing for old school full auto to function


    I did look into using two resistors in a "latching" or 2 way switch/latch circuit

    but my electronic knowledge is not that intense and despite a few bench tests on proto boards

    the actual latching never quite performed exactly as intended...

    The idea is the gun cycles or latches until COL pops and ensures the gun is always finished its cycle

    (so gun even in auto never stops with COL still raised or dead trigger in semi)

    yeah it didn't quite work as intended


    What you propose sounds like a lot of work when the Perun++ unit would be the easiest & sensible option

    and be about same space as Nano-Hard




    somewhere there is a 5% discount code too - lot easier solution


    5% code might still work: AWFF1102312012


    and fit gate Nano to a conventional gun



  20. Well the other alternative is go back to std 18:1 in 621 & RA motor (still quicker)

    but to use 13:1 in 516 you need to mod the arc bit on top half of reinforced 516 box

    then the 13:1 spur will fit & spin ok


    use SHS/RA motor in 621 with 18:1's hoping the Perun will work OK again

    then the Cyma motor in 516, with 13:1 after modding arc


    both guns will perform "roughly" about the same say 16~17rps on 7.4v lipo sorta thing

    bit of fucking about no matter what...


    should have just bought your son a set of 16:1's that would go straight in

    and you could have left the 621 alone and just used the RA motor in it or kept as is


    I blame the kids in the end - Daaaaaaaad - it's not working/fucked


    "Well it was running alright when I left it"


    bloody kids - cost you a fortune they do

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