Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

I think it's better,with a lower amount of experience like yourself to join an already existing team,I'd say there are plenty of already established teams out there that would accept someone like you,being part of a team will get you better experience then diving in blind head first too.

Heard some reports from a few friends of mine who run top tech gen 3s,and from some other players who've used them.Apparently G&G MOSFETs should not be used with any lipo over 25c of discharge,they'll blow otherwise. Really does not like 11.1vs as well.
 
Now,20-25c isn't that much. That's only half the discharge rate needed to spin your motor up to full speed instantly. Isn't the whole point of the mosfet to allow you to use higher discharge batteries? Call me skeptical,but I think these mosfets just MIGHT be complete shit

Well, Taring has done an amazing job on my VSR; in fact, I think its brilliant.

Some of the parts I have made:
AK12 Stock, front sight and flash hider

 
Diemaco L119 front sight

 
PVS21 mount and silencer

This is mine
 



 
Great fun but will be selling soon and saving for my car I've wanted since I was 18

INTRODUCING CAPTAIN COMMUNISM!!

They seem to have managed to overcomplicate the very simple process of setting light to propane to move a big striker... What is the point in the key card? Extra money for something pointless. If you leave your rifle unattended then its your fault if it goes walkies.

Ah the Reddit Airsoft sub, the voice of reason....
 

The main problem with mesh is the shadows it creates across your vision. If you haven't worn any, you will not know what I mean and unfortunately most cameras do not work the same way as the human eye so you cannot replicate the effect in pictures without some very expensive equipment. without any doubt Herosharks are the toughest mesh goggles available - they do not claim it, but i have no doubt that they would stop 00 buckshot. They also have the largest holes of any commercially available mesh - this is a two edged sword, because yes, they do let more light in than the common small hole perforated sheet "mesh" that many manufacturers use, but the bits of metal that remain are also amongst the largest...
 
When you are wearing mesh, your eyes attempt to remain focussed beyond it, which means that whatever you can see of the mesh between your eyes and their point of focus is very blurred and, if it is small enough, it disappears completely. The threshold for this seems to be about 1.1mm, ie if any dimension of a shape of metal is longer than 1.1mm, then it will never completely disappear from your view and will instead leave a very blurry dot of shadow (and since they come in rows there will be rows of these blurry dots of shadow). This is where Herosharks fail - the quasi-triangular shapes left between the offset perforated holes leave about the worst rows of shadowy dots.
 
You totally do get used to them being there and your brain adapts to looking beyond them, however another problem is that any sudden movement nearby, or if you attempt to glance down at your chest by just moving your eyes, even sudden noises that make your eyes involuntarily move, can all cause your eyes to attempt to refocus on the inside of the goggles. The larger the shadows, the more often this happens, plus, as Esoterick says, if they are unpainted or white on the inside, this makes it happen more often. So what? The trouble is that it takes a while for your eyes and brain to readjust to focus purely beyond the mesh again and not bother about the shadows, so basically the bigger the metal the more time you cannot see...
 
Still, your eyes will refocus, whereas fully fogged/rained out polycarbonate is a trip back to the safezone hoping you don't fall over something in your path on the way.
 
In my experience mesh made from interwoven wires, like those Kingrin's, makes the smallest shadows and they can completely disappear from your view. However, in the Kingrin's I personally bought from firesupport.co.uk, the mesh was pretty badly inserted into the frame - there are many of the last bits of wire missing so there is less substance actually holding the mesh in place than there ought to be, which does make me question their safety. The same style ACM ones, like these, have never given me any pause and i have been shot in the face full auto whilst wearing them at least 4 times.
 
You could also consider doing what I did to a pair of polycarbonate lensed goggles which fit your face well - swap the polycarbonate for mesh you buy yourself. You can then bend the end of each wire to loop around the last wire it crosses, or a boundary wire, to form the edge of the mesh insert. This adds strength because it means that the wires cannot be pulled into the centre of the mesh by deforming pressure - if the wire cannot move, the only way to deform the shape of the holes and thus penetrate the mesh, is to actually stretch the wire - personally i do not believe it is possible for an AEG, BASR, gas or even HPA, propelled plastic BB's to deliver enough energy to a hit to actually stretch 0.7mm steel wire, especially when it is also supported by the friction between each crossover. I also added to the strength of mine by making the mesh replacement bulge out way more than the original lens did, which gives the shape more room to flex and spring back than if it was simply flat.
 
Mesh Modified ESS Advancer V12's
...when I'm wearing these, it only takes seconds before it feels as if there is nothing at all between my eyes and the world.
The mesh is #8 0.7mm SS316 and you can buy/blag sample sized pieces which are well big enough to do any twin lensed goggles and, from some companies, just about a ski mask type.

Swedish M90 is a killer in the Summer. Italian Vegetato is also extremely effective bar the browner winter months.
 
If you want something nobody else has,and have deep pockets,Check out Prof1Group's 'Varan' (Lizard) Camo.
http://p1gtac.com/catalog/verhnyaya_odezhda_5_?color-varan-varan-camo&min=0&max=6815&orderby=1
 

Belgian Jigsaw.
 

Soviet M88 Afganka Winter Pants - $90 posted from Minsk ~ fleabay
SJ4000 1080P Sports DVR Car Full HD DV Action Waterproof 30M Camera Black - £15.19 posted

Hold your rifle upside-down and hit people crouching behind cover. Also, if you spin yourself around really fast and then fire, your BB will curve even more and allow you to execute a clean kill on someone standing behind you. I think they did a documentary on this effect called 'Wanted', except in that they just whip handguns around (which is going to be too cumbersome with your VSR/BAR) rather than doing pirouettes.

ok so not bought ... but i have 3D printed some LRB spacers for my TM VSR G-spec
 

I can be a bit of a tart sometimes
 
And shoot/squeal like a girl
 
Does that count?

I have no problem with people depicting combat units of any nation from WW2. The SS dress uniform however is not a combat uniform and is designed as a political statement. There are many great looking WW2 German uniforms that you could have chosen that would show respect for the millions of Germans who died and were also victims of Naziism and the war that was forced upon them by their government. DAK, gebirgsjager, fallschirmjager and even the SS combat uniform would be fine in my book.

Too young to be a SS Obersturmbannfuerer. Hugo Boss styling is great, black on silver, certainly eye catching. And I actually find the KGB and Communist party more offensive (killed 20 million of their own people). However, dress uniform less practical than wearing a camouflaged Waffen SS one. I prefer the Herr Flick look from Allo Allo.

it's only 4 inches, but it smells like a foot!

Bear in mind that most people measure their range like they measure their knob size.

It's not often I'm stunned by how such s simple thing makes a huge difference!
Basically I'm fannying around with my bar 10 until my new internals come just seeing what happens from doing what.
I took the hop unit to bits to see how it works as it wouldn't lift .30's which I thought was a bit crap.
This is why... Pretty much no nub !
That pathetic excuse for a nub did nothing!
So I took the arm off, sanded the nub off, cut a square of pencil eraser 5mmx5mmx4
Stuck that on and sanded an angle on it so it made flat contact with the bucking, put it all back together and it'll now send .30's to the sky with full hop and a perfect flat trajectory with half hop on and I lazered the extra flat range at 30'
Now that's fucking awesome for 25 mins work and no cost in parts, just shows with a little experiment lots can be gained !

I think it would be a good idea to have a VSR-10 master thread/sticky on this forum section,fair amount of sniper posts coming up nowadays.

Just got myself a CYMA RPK, VDV Russian Army impression loadout begins!
 

 
Will get some better photos up in future- it's missing the rear sight so I'm replacing that ASAP.

Anything from the top of your head to the tip of your toes.

Welcome to Irish sniping
 
I've talked with a couple of lads to reddit to update myself on what's best and it seems not much has changed. What I run is quite a budget build with a lot of DIY stuff but it can all be replaced with shelf parts.
 
First thing's first,you will pretty much have to play at AEG ranges so be stealthy or quick . Small 3x or 4x optic is good,no point in a massive 3-9x40 like I run. Adding inertia is a good idea,as long as the gun is balanced.
 
PDi-W hold is probably the better bucking for 1J VSR builds. I've been told the Maple leaf has the best sealing quality but is rubbish on it's own. The Laylax buckings have had spotty QC,needing material removal but are still good,though,generally people seem to like the 'split' buckings.
I run .28s and .30s,the latter being the max weight for the W hold in my experience.
 
If you want to keep the Stock chamber,you will have to do some work to the adjuster mech as it bends and causes uneven hop pressure. Very trial and error job. Consists of making thin metal spacers and sticking them around the adjuster and arm to increase rigidity. taken ages to get mine right and there's still a tiny bit of curve. Also you will need to invest in a dangerwerx Type B arm or the airsoftpro one to get the best out of the stock chamber.
 
Right now the Action army hop chamber is very popular. If you want absolute accuracy I recommend this. Pdi chamber is a bitch to adjust and the laylax one is expensive.
 
Good barrel always helps. PDi are the best option for Bolt actions. 6.05 bore Steel ones are good.
 
Barrel spacers of course help,you can make them out of masking tape,no different to bought ones. An extreme mod some american lad once did is pouring wax down his outer barrel to seal in the inner.
 
On the plus side,you can save some money since you can stick with the stock trigger mech. I'd replace the piston with one that has a steel catch like the AA or laylax one. SHS or PPS sear set is my choice. I'd chose the SHS piston sear as it's made of softer steel and is the cheapest and easiest wear part to replace.
 
Finally,goes without saying,standard sealing jobs are an absolute must. power output has to be as consistant as possible. The cylinder is an easy job. I am getting 100% full seal using PTFE tape,Stock Marui O-ring on a Laylax piston. Cylidner polished and lightly greased,head tapered and nozzle crowned.
 
The Action army chamber should have good seal. PTFE tape and maybe some gasket maker around the hop bucking and barrel joint is also a good option.

Welcome to Irish sniping
 
I've talked with a couple of lads to reddit to update myself on what's best and it seems not much has changed. What I run is quite a budget build with a lot of DIY stuff but it can all be replaced with shelf parts.
 
First thing's first,you will pretty much have to play at AEG ranges so be stealthy or quick . Small 3x or 4x optic is good,no point in a massive 3-9x40 like I run. Adding inertia is a good idea,as long as the gun is balanced.
 
PDi-W hold is probably the better bucking for 1J VSR builds. I've been told the Maple leaf has the best sealing quality but is rubbish on it's own. The Laylax buckings have had spotty QC,needing material removal but are still good,though,generally people seem to like the 'split' buckings.
I run .28s and .30s,the latter being the max weight for the W hold in my experience.
 
If you want to keep the Stock chamber,you will have to do some work to the adjuster mech as it bends and causes uneven hop pressure. Very trial and error job. Consists of making thin metal spacers and sticking them around the adjuster and arm to increase rigidity. taken ages to get mine right and there's still a tiny bit of curve. Also you will need to invest in a dangerwerx Type B arm or the airsoftpro one to get the best out of the stock chamber.
 
Right now the Action army hop chamber is very popular. If you want absolute accuracy I recommend this. Pdi chamber is a bitch to adjust and the laylax one is expensive.
 
Good barrel always helps. PDi are the best option for Bolt actions. 6.05 bore Steel ones are good.
 
Barrel spacers of course help,you can make them out of masking tape,no different to bought ones. An extreme mod some american lad once did is pouring wax down his outer barrel to seal in the inner.
 
On the plus side,you can save some money since you can stick with the stock trigger mech. I'd replace the piston with one that has a steel catch like the AA or laylax one. SHS or PPS sear set is my choice. I'd chose the SHS piston sear as it's made of softer steel and is the cheapest and easiest wear part to replace.
 
Finally,goes without saying,standard sealing jobs are an absolute must. power output has to be as consistant as possible. The cylinder is an easy job. I am getting 100% full seal using PTFE tape,Stock Marui O-ring on a Laylax piston. Cylidner polished and lightly greased,head tapered and nozzle crowned.
 
The Action army chamber should have good seal. PTFE tape and maybe some gasket maker around the hop bucking and barrel joint is also a good option.