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Fair enough. I'd say in CQB they're just a necessary because of the different angles you might be getting shot from. In woodland there's really less chance of getting hit from the side and so one can usually get away with just glasses. A mesh mask is also a good compromise if you intend to do a fair bit of running around.

I was going to suggest a chap on eBay that will custom cut clear 2, 3 or 5mm acrylic into circles for £3 (posted) per 2 disks. I've used him before and the stuff he sends is great. Here's a link to his profile: http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/bobbyboy0177 - send him a message and he'll sort it for you. I'd recommend 3mm thickness.

Take this as a lesson to never order from Evike. They're a bunch of dicks and fairly universally despised by any semi-serious airsoft players in the US. Hope you get your stuff alright.

I would give the usual recommendation of eye protection that wraps around like the ESS V12s (and many others) rather than just the glasses. The obvious downside is that they tend to be slightly less comfortable and fog up easier, but are safer. A decision for you to make of course. Neoprene masks are a right bitch to run in as they limit breathing severely. I'd recommend something as thin as a gaiter but, again, pros and cons with each.

Almost zero chance of finding one in the right spec, but there is the option of getting a sacrificial lens cut for it if you know the diameter and if it has - that thing that screws in the front for which the name eludes me - What brand is it?

Are you certain they cannot be punched out? I'm sure done but requires considerably more force that on, say, their Glock or 1911 magazines (the ones that have pins at the base that is). I've seen many a forum thread with this same discussion. I remember reading this back in the day too: http://airsoft-guns-blog.pyramydair.com/2011/11/blog-post.html

I'd say that if you're sitting back and trying to take out stuff from 25m+ then trying to hit anything moving perpendicular to yourself is going to be a challenge, regardless of the speed of your BBs. I'd also really like to stress again that it's nothing but a bad idea to throw such a high powered spring into something that hasn't got a decent cylinder or particularly good gears; I've seen it end in tears many times. You could end up costing yourself a lot of money by having to replace the entire gearbox. I know it's all rather temping, but just be careful. If you're going for a slow build then perhaps upgrade the barrel first (keeping it the same length of course unless you're looking to get the cylinder immediately), then the motor, then the cylinder and finally the gears and spring. And you've said you know your site limits but, as I've just posted, 450fps is well outside of both Section 8 and Airsoft Edinburgh's site limits. Are you looking to lock it to semi? Even so, that would still not be site legal for Section 8.

Big no-no on the eye protection; don't skimp on it. Those aren't rated by anyone reputable for protection, and I wouldn't trust them. Having said that, you'll probably be fine if you really can't fork out but if I were you I'd look on eBay and find some military surplus ballistics goggles. They're not as stylish, but they don't cost much and will do a better job (plus most come with interchangeable lenses). Consider looking up the ESS V12s as there are plenty knocking about. Edit: I've also found these guys brilliant for clothing and other stuff: http://www.shootercbgear.com/ Edit 2: Also, if you're not wanting to fork out ridiculous amounts of money for gear then simply go second hand. The decent stuff takes years and years to come close to showing wear and so is generally available in very good condition.

Perhaps it's just your wording, but you may have made the classic mistake of thinking work = FPS. I know for a fact that Section 8 (to take one of the sites you play at) has an FPS limit of 360 on fully automatic guns; using heavier BBs may reduce the velocity, but not the overall energy of the BB. Changing your FPS really isn't always entirely necessary when you're using heavier BBs. Indeed, if you go in with the expectation of getting ~350fps with a .36 or something, then that's considered cheating the chrono and may have you thrown out. The maths: ~360fps (which is what you should be at right now) with a .2 is 1.2J ~450fps with a .2 is 1.88J, which far exceeds almost every site limit in the UK for automatic weapons If you were to use a .28 or .36 with an upgrades spring then you'd be putting out 380fps and 335fps respectively buy again, the work stays the same (at 1.88J). Sites tend to put the FPS limit in as it's easier for people to understand, but what they're really after is the energy of each shot being at the site limit. For Section 8 that's: My advice: Buy those heavier BBs and crank your hop up to see if it'll cope. If it does then you're golden, and will only need to conduct minor upgrades. If your M14 is hitting 360-370 already, then that's the high end of being site legal anyway for fully automatics, and you should probably not take it any further.

Agreed. There's one pin at the top to take out the feed lip, and two at the bottom to remove the base of the mag. If you have any more than that then, well, it's not a TM magazine.

If all the parts are stock, then don't upgrade the spring alone. As a rule of thumb with any airsoft gun: You can't just upgrade 'one thing' - different tolerances and materials mean you'll stress certain parts far more than others (and that will break things). That said, an M130 or 40 should be enough to get you up to 450fps. Just, again, seriously consider upgrading the cylinder, spring guide and motor first. CYMA internals are alright, but nothing to write home about. Any brand of spring will do, frankly. Madbull ones are quite easy to find in the UK and will set you back around £15 if you include postage.

Highly functional and therefore rather iconic these days. Personally I'd never buy a Glock 17 because they're a bit boring, but the 18c is rather fun in airsoft and does something that no other Marui GBB does with its select fire, so that's why I went for it really.

Or MEU or M9 or Five-Seven or anything TM frankly. Second hand is usually fine too and you'll probably only end up spending around £80-100.

TM Glock.

Selling certain regulated 'weapons' (or rather, RIFs) with PayPal has never been against their TOS in the UK, but selling them when one isn't adhering to applicable law (i.e. not checking for a valid defence, selling flick/butterfly knives etc.) means it's in violation of their acceptable use policy. See: Airsoft parts are not considered real firearm parts, but this is where we hit the grey area as a few people have had their accounts closed for selling airsoft equipment reminiscent of real steel stuff. There's also the obvious problem of lots of people selling the genuine article (e.g. Magpul stuff, optics etc.) - because that is in violation of their acceptable use policy. What they deem as being a 'certain firearm part' is not quite clear.* The distinction here though really is that eBay have always banned any and all airsoft guns from being sold (replica or otherwise). *From reading various forum threads on the topic, I'd say PayPal approach this on a case-by-case basis. If you're selling a real steel hammer or another obvious part of a real gun then expect for them to close your account and never open it again; if you've sold some genuine XDM rail covers then they're not going to do a thing.

Yep, they're good. I've ordered a few things from them. Communication times aren't brilliant (the usual 2 day ordeal) but other than that the service was fine.

Jing Gong M4 S-System. A bunch of companies make it (or have rebrands of it), but the JG box art (or lack thereof) is distinctive.

Empty the magazine of both gas and BBs then carefully knock out the circled pin. Also have your hand ready to stop the follower and spring flying out of the top as you do so, although this shouldn't be necessary at all. Replace spring and follower (if required), then put the new feed lip in (be sure to replace the rubber gas router too) and push it down whilst you knock the pin back into place with light taps from a hammer; it may be a tight fit. Image of pin location:

If all else fails, try the Delta Strike barrels. I've had good experiences with them, and at 6.20 they certainly have a wide enough bore. They're also more readily accessible in the UK at different lengths. The only thing is the window is built for longer, flat hops (R-Hops primarily) so it might not be suitable.

ITT: People not checking which subforum they're in. With a 6.23 you can expect a 10-20fps decrease. Extending the barrel won't get you that much. Thankfully with GBBs there isn't the problem of having to make sure your cylinder is up to the task, but I would say that with the GHK G5 kicking out only 300fps bringing that down to 280 might not be the best idea. I'd probably go for the tightbore if I were in your shoes. If you were around the 350 mark then I might say otherwise. A well manufactured tightbore will still give you an increase in accuracy (as well as the usual FPS bump) over many stock barrels, but the GHK ones are actually alright to start with. I suppose a lot of this depends on the gas you're using too - Guarder powerful might give you 330-340, but if you're using Nuprol or some other green gas then you're likely hitting 300-310. Do you have a chronograph? Edit: Just to answer the whole question: Yes, a longer barrel will improve FPS too, but I don't have the knowledge to tell you whether a longer wide bore will stay at around about the same. My thought is that it would likely be a negligible - 5-10fps - drop, but again, I'd say if we're operating around the lower 300s then a tight bore barrel is going to give you that FPS kick and a bit more range (as well as marginally improved accuracy over the stock barrel).

Oh I know all too well how much a GBBR costs to upgrade, so yeh.

Eh? So my point all along - we're in agreement.

Context:

Depends on the NPAS and how much you're willing to spend. The newer RA-Tech ones are solid, but other brands aren't always so much. Also they're a great deal of money. Not for the faint hearted.

Check the auto sear. Sometimes it wears out (infact it's one of the things that does quickest). If you need a spare then give me a bell and I'll post you my old stock one if this happens again. As for switching to full auto before removing the slide, that's not something that you need to worry about with the GBB.