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As a lot of threads end up with one of us recommending the Tokyo Marui MWS, and i get PM's asking about it, i figured I'd start a thread to keep all of the information in one place. Here i plan on covering a general overview of the gun, as well as upgrade parts, general maintenance and tuning. If anyone else wants to share any information, guides or even gameplay with their MWS, here is the place to do it. With that being said, lets get on with it.
 
I've had my 2  Tm m4 GBBR's for a little over a year now, and they've got through dozens of changes to get them where they are today. Out of the box they are beautifully finished and boast impressive performance. I bought my first one from Zeroone, who price matched it for me. At the time the gun set me back £430 and the magazines £35, but they have risen quite a bit in price in most places. 

The gun is incredibly well finished and sports a Cerakoted receiver. Before opening the box, i didn't get what the big deal was about Cerakote, but that all changed after using it over time. The finish is VERY resistant to the hard life I've shown it, and is far more scratch resistant than any paint or anodization on any other gun I've owned. The two I have still don't have a scratch on them. At the rear is a standard m4 stock, which does its job with little wobble, but isn't the nicest one I've ever seen. The railed handguard is very solid and nicely finished with all of the correct numbered markings on the rails. From there you have your usual front triangle iron sight which DOES NOT have a sling attachment at the base.
 

The magazines hold 35 BB's and have a Cerakoted shell to keep them from scratching easily. They have very recently started coming with silent fill valves, but are mostly the normal kind that hiss when filling and spray liquid propane when full. Its worth noting that the valve sits at an angle to the baseplate. One modification i would highly recommend to do is the "green gas mod" which involves removing a long zinc tube from inside the magazine. This allows more gas into the magazine and upping your shots per gas fill dramatically, with some people reporting 150+ shots from a single gas charge. As a side note, i have started to just cut the zinc tube about 1 inch from the base instead of removing it entirely. A video showing how to do it: 
 
Chronograph Results:
using blaster .20 BB's and green gas i got around 298 fps with a deviation of 2FPS. yes, you heard that right, " FPS. This thing is incredibly consistent!
 
Important information:
The inner barrel is 250mm on the 10.5 " CQBR and the 14.5" carbine, meaning on the 14.5" outer you can fit a much longer 370mm inner barrel. The Hop up adjustment dial is similar to Tm pistols and can be located inside the upper receiver by locking the bolt back and looking down the magwell. Due to the way the outer barrel is cut, it's not possible to fit an aftermarket rail onto the gun without one of two things. A barrel adapter ring (PTS, ORGA and a couple of others make them and usually cost £10) or A dytac outer barrel, which has a wider lip, as shown below. Dytac on the left

 
First shots:
I took it down to the 20m range at the First and only shop and loaded it up with .28 blaster devils. They had multiple targets there, but i focused on the little spinning targets at the back wall. The orange discs must have been no more than 1.5 inches in diameter and i was hitting it virtually every time with the iron sights. So far, very impressed with the accuracy. So much so, I treated it to a new dress!

 
First internal upgrades:
After speaking with Dave about the gun, he explained that the gun wouldnt hop really heavy weight BB's with the standard nub. because it was hollow and squished when applying hop pressure. To remedy this he machined me a great little nub out of brass. Isn't it beautiful!?

This meant i could now lift much heavier BB's increasing my range and accuracy even further than the already impressive stock performance. Using this new nub and GEOFF .32 bb''s i was able to get the bb's out 60+M with a flat trajectory. They were making a 1.5-2ft grouping on the plastic bales as seen in the video below.
 
I have SOOO much move to cover, including barrel reviews, customs mods and a DMR build, but its 5;30 am and i need to be up in an hour, so we'll continue this tomorrow
 

I had a test dummy this time. He’s stood at 75m away.  I’ve still got a few clicks of hop travel so I may try .45 next. Specs are:
 
Orga 6.05 410mm barrel
SixG super nub
Modify tan bucking 
380-390 FPS on a .20
ASG Accuracy International.43
 
what I’ve learned.... at that range, even though it’s shooting almost flat, canting the rifle even slightly on the bipod caused them to just miss. According to my brother, the misses were skimming past him, so they were very close. 
 

 
 

Had a couple of people asking me about this so I figured I’d so somewhat of a guide.
 
Semi auto conversion:
 
For those of you wanting to DMR your MWS, you’ll need to remove the option of full auto as it’s the general rule for most sites. It’s simple to do and this is how you do it.. 
 
Split the lower and push down the hammer until the seers click in place, like so:
 
Turn your selector in between semi and full auto, like this:

 
Push from the other side with your finger and twist/wiggle the selector as you’re pulling it from the switch side. It should pull free from the gun. 
 
From there you need to take a dremel (or file if you’re feeling energetic) and alter the selector ‘barrel’. Here is a standard ‘full auto’ selector and a modded one:

 
the piece you grind off is is what makes contact with the full auto sear. With it gone, it can’t possibly go into full auto. 
 


 
Now that you’re done, you just have to reinstall. The only difference from taking it out is you need a screwdriver or anything thin to poke a plate and a detent out of the way.

 
Videos if my instructions weren’t overly clear:
removal:
 
install:
 
 
Hope this helps! Any questions, give me a shout.

Step one: buy a SixG brass super nub (best upgrade in my eyes)
 
step two: buy a modify tan bucking
 
step three: buy some geoffs .36 bb’s
 
step four: fit the parts and test
 
step five: return here to tell me I was right lol

Offer is always there, mate!
 
personally I don’t find the mag capacity bothering me and if anything it adds to the excitement as well as increasing your skill level.
 
I’ve found using mine has made me a much better player. I think about my loadout as a whole.  Where my mags are, how fast can I draw my pistol, where I’m putting my empty mag etc. With a good setup and the instincts that will come over time with using a low cap, you’ll be a much better player as a whole regardless of what gun you’re using. 
 
Are you behind cover? Check your shots. About to enter a building or general enemy area? Mag change. If your gun shoots further than most, use it as an advantage. Get out of their range and then fire on them. There’s nothing more satisfying than playing for hours and realising you haven’t actually ‘died’ yet, because you’ve been playing smart. 
 
As for the hpa mag... while it doesn’t really interest me, you could mag clamp a stanag high cap to an mws mag, get some tubing like what m249’s use and have the high cap feed into the mws mag with a bit of dremelling, and then tap the bottom of the mws mag for a hpa valve. 

propane, so essentially green gas. With gas guns FPS is less important. It might be 330fps on a .20 bb, which is about 1 joule. But with a .32-.36 it could be 1.3 joules for example. Because an AEG has a fixed volume of air it tends to either keep the same energy or loose it with heavier BB’s (depending on barrel:cylinder volume ratio) unless it’s specifically built to joule creep. 
 
A gbbr is different. The heavier the BB is, the longer it’s in the barrel for, which generally means the more of the energy the gas can impart on it. It’s another reason putting a longer barrel in a gas gun can make the fps go up considerably. Longer the barrel, the longer the BB is inside of it, the more energy it absorbs. Which can be advantageous or cause cycling issues if you go too long. 

Maintenance:
Now before i get into what i do, id like to point out that how i do it and what i use are not the only way of doing things. People use all sorts of different oils, grease and sprays to get the job done. As long as it's suitable for the job, all is well.
 
Items:
Wurth High performance dry chain lube (Teflon/ptfe spray)
Wurth brake and chain cleaner
Airsoft Engenuity cleaning rod
Silicone oil
paper towels

 
Step 1:
Remove the magazine and split the upper and lower by popping out the body pins. From there, remove the charging handle and bolt carrier group.

 
Using the paper towel, wipe them down properly, including the channel on the underside of the charging handle. This is what mine looks like after one game day and a bit of testing.

 
Step 2:
With the moving parts cleaned, we need to move onto the upper receiver. There is no point cleaning the moving parts if the walls they're sliding against are still dirty, so wipe down the inner walls of the upper receiver as well as the grove that the charging handle runs in.

 
Step 3:
We're going to finish off the cleaning of the upper by cleaning the barrel. I use an Airsoft Engenuity Optirod because it holds cue tips at a slight angle instead of cutting little strips of tissue, but any will work just fine.

I go in from the muzzle end and stop before the hop up so i don't disturb it or damage it in any way. Because i use propane, i don't get silicone oil or other crap all over the hop rubber. If you do, take a cue tip and gently push it inside and twist. you don't want to apply any sort of pressure because you're at risk of rotating the rubber ever so slightly or damaging it. 

 
Step 4:
Moving on to the lower.. I have two processes that i do to the lower. One after every game, and one after every 5. The only difference is on the 5th clean i spray out the lower with brake/chain/carb cleaner. Because of how tight everything is packed in to the MWS trigger box its hard to completely clean it without removing it from the lower. with carb cleaner it will blast out all of the deposits and degrease the trigger mech completely. what will happen is the spray will run into the gaps and drip out of the trigger hole in the bottom of the lower. The spray evaporates in the air, so after about 30 seconds it will be bone dry, leaving behind a clear trigger box. For the daily clean, i just wipe down all visible surfaces with a cloth/ paper towel. In order to keep a reliable bolt lock, push the bolt release and clean the faces of the ZET plate when it lifts up. if you get crap between there, it can slow and not lock back reliably. Especially running green gas, which cycles the gun faster.

 
Step 5:
Everything is now clean, so we can start with the lube. There's lots of options out there but one thing that's important is this... SILICONE OIL IS NOT FOR METAL ON METAL PARTS. over time, silicone oil will make metal bind and is the exact opposite of what we want to do. Silicone oil is important, but only for sealing components. I use Wurth dry chain spray for 2 reasons. If it can lubricate and stand up to the temperatures of chain/sprocket contact on a 200mph motorbike, it will do just fine on our bolt moving 8" forward and back. The other reason is it isn't messy. it dries in the air and leaves a light film on the surface so it isn't going to get thrown around the inside of the gun. so give it a good spray and give it a few seconds to dry.
 
Step 6:
Back to the lower.. If you're using a spray like me, put your finger over the hop up entrance in the lower receiver and give the inside a quick spray with the lube. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY LUBE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE HOP RUBBER. If you're using a grease or oil, this is less of an issue (until you fire the gun and it throws it all in there anyway)
 
Step 7:
Spray your BCG and charging handle with lube. Pretty self explanatory so i didn't bother with a picture. What i do is hold the bolt by the nozzle with my thumb covering the underside of the nozzle. this stops any lube going into the nozzle chamber.
 
Step 8:
Last thing to do is lubricate the sealing parts with silicone oil. This step is only really needed if you use propane, as green gas should keep the sealing cup on the nozzle adequately lubed and i do this every 5 games.  Pull the nozzle out and place a couple of drops of silicone oil between the nozzle and the BCG. On WE guns you can pull the nozzle out far enough to apple lube directly to the o ring, but you cant on an MWS without removing the nozzle, so this is as good as you can get. Like i said though, if you're using green gas, this shouldn't need to be done often.

 
Step 9:
Put it all back together because you're done!
 
 
 
 
 

Moral of the story: don’t deal with pikeys and if you do, don’t expect the police to do shit. 

As much as I’m only interested in GBBR’s I’d rather this was an NGRS. While it’ll shoot amazing, TM’s plastics are shit compared to VFC or WE nylon fibre. Just watched the TM video where he says the new AKM gbbr is die cast zinc, and those subcompact NBB things have fixed hop and about 5m range... they need to get their shit together 

Sad to hear you’re not getting on with the MWS experience.
 
As an ex PTW fanboy myself, I’m finding the overall reliability of the MWS platform very refreshing.  I enjoy maintaining and tinkering with the gun, and it’s never let me down in a game, which I found was a major issue with my PTW’s, which I ran for about 10 years. 
 
I got sick of having to send them off to mysterious gurus for months at a time, to have various weak design flaws rectified at hundreds of pounds of cost.  Worn sector gears, faulty motors, chopped bb’s, misfeeding magazines, catastrophic failure in very wet conditions, and a general lack of feedback from firing the PTW are all things that are thankfully long behind me know. They just got in the way of me enjoying skirmishes in the end.
 
With a light bit of fettling, and good maintenance I’m glad to say neither my MWS or MP7 have ever failed to fire, and shoot accurately absolutely miles.  Yes the mags are real capacity and realistically heavy, but I’ve completely got used to that, and I’m getting as many kills as I usually got, just with much more satisfaction of having bettered my hi-cap hose, sewing machine wielding opponents.

This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
Can I join properly now please?

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Mws kicked ass at the Stirling event. Might be getting a second one again too. Exciting times! More builds to come

Correct on both accounts. 370 FPS for full auto is the legal max and anything with B.B. in is best avoided. 
 
Having said that... I’ve bought stuff from zero one and other U.K. shops that’s advertised as 360 FPS and turned out to be much more. The scar H I bought from them was 440fps

The problem with this is it’s not a retailer. I bought something a retailer wouldn’t sell me and got it sent over by a private individual. Thankfully though, it’s made it’s way to Langley today, so the worlds most well travelled scope rings are nearly at my door. 😁

A few bits for the MWS.

My mate over the pond occasionally edging me with pics of stuff I won't get for months.
 

I’d probably be looking at a .28-.32 max for that sort of FPS.