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Ian_Gere

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  1. Thanks
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Barny in Mesh eyepro   
    The main problem with mesh is the shadows it creates across your vision. If you haven't worn any, you will not know what I mean and unfortunately most cameras do not work the same way as the human eye so you cannot replicate the effect in pictures without some very expensive equipment. without any doubt Herosharks are the toughest mesh goggles available - they do not claim it, but i have no doubt that they would stop 00 buckshot. They also have the largest holes of any commercially available mesh - this is a two edged sword, because yes, they do let more light in than the common small hole perforated sheet "mesh" that many manufacturers use, but the bits of metal that remain are also amongst the largest...
     
    When you are wearing mesh, your eyes attempt to remain focussed beyond it, which means that whatever you can see of the mesh between your eyes and their point of focus is very blurred and, if it is small enough, it disappears completely. The threshold for this seems to be about 1.1mm, ie if any dimension of a shape of metal is longer than 1.1mm, then it will never completely disappear from your view and will instead leave a very blurry dot of shadow (and since they come in rows there will be rows of these blurry dots of shadow). This is where Herosharks fail - the quasi-triangular shapes left between the offset perforated holes leave about the worst rows of shadowy dots.
     
    You totally do get used to them being there and your brain adapts to looking beyond them, however another problem is that any sudden movement nearby, or if you attempt to glance down at your chest by just moving your eyes, even sudden noises that make your eyes involuntarily move, can all cause your eyes to attempt to refocus on the inside of the goggles. The larger the shadows, the more often this happens, plus, as Esoterick says, if they are unpainted or white on the inside, this makes it happen more often. So what? The trouble is that it takes a while for your eyes and brain to readjust to focus purely beyond the mesh again and not bother about the shadows, so basically the bigger the metal the more time you cannot see...
     
    Still, your eyes will refocus, whereas fully fogged/rained out polycarbonate is a trip back to the safezone hoping you don't fall over something in your path on the way.
     
    In my experience mesh made from interwoven wires, like those Kingrin's, makes the smallest shadows and they can completely disappear from your view. However, in the Kingrin's I personally bought from firesupport.co.uk, the mesh was pretty badly inserted into the frame - there are many of the last bits of wire missing so there is less substance actually holding the mesh in place than there ought to be, which does make me question their safety. The same style ACM ones, like these, have never given me any pause and i have been shot in the face full auto whilst wearing them at least 4 times.
     
    You could also consider doing what I did to a pair of polycarbonate lensed goggles which fit your face well - swap the polycarbonate for mesh you buy yourself. You can then bend the end of each wire to loop around the last wire it crosses, or a boundary wire, to form the edge of the mesh insert. This adds strength because it means that the wires cannot be pulled into the centre of the mesh by deforming pressure - if the wire cannot move, the only way to deform the shape of the holes and thus penetrate the mesh, is to actually stretch the wire - personally i do not believe it is possible for an AEG, BASR, gas or even HPA, propelled plastic BB's to deliver enough energy to a hit to actually stretch 0.7mm steel wire, especially when it is also supported by the friction between each crossover. I also added to the strength of mine by making the mesh replacement bulge out way more than the original lens did, which gives the shape more room to flex and spring back than if it was simply flat.
     
    Mesh Modified ESS Advancer V12's
    ...when I'm wearing these, it only takes seconds before it feels as if there is nothing at all between my eyes and the world.
    The mesh is #8 0.7mm SS316 and you can buy/blag sample sized pieces which are well big enough to do any twin lensed goggles and, from some companies, just about a ski mask type.
  2. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Jaylordofwaargh in objectives and props in scenarios   
    I think objectives with a time element make people braver, which is particularly good on days when there's a lot of hire gunners.
  3. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from BibbsOnTour in Quick Questions & Simple Answers.   
    Suppressors for airsoft is a complex subject, but if you are willing to trust me (as a professional sound engineer), your best bet is not to fill the tube with foam, but rather to create expansion chambers inside your suppressor. There is also a legal issue which is that in the UK it is illegal to create something which is intended to reduce the report of a firearm. For our purposes then, whatever you use internally must fail the first time a real bullet was fired through it.
     
    If you don't want to go all sound nerd on it and build your own internals, the best way forward is a suppressor which has just 3 foam rings inside, so long as they are prevented from moving down the inside of the tube - this is surprisingly effective. The way to make it better is to remove the spring which holds the foam in place and create baffles with holes as tight as possible, which still allow the BB to pass through (bearing in mind that the BB has a tendency to rise as soon as it is free of the inner barrel). The baffles must not slip inside, but if they are made from something which is flexible, that flex is a means of absorbing a bit more sound energy than something stiff would.
     
    Something to take note of however is that most of the noise AEG's or BASR's make is radiated directly out through the sides of the receiver, not down the barrel. I'm not sure if this is also the case for GBB's and GBBR's, but i suspect that the 'bolt' does make more noise than the pressure wave from the muzzle.
  4. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Rogerborg in Mesh eyepro   
    The main problem with mesh is the shadows it creates across your vision. If you haven't worn any, you will not know what I mean and unfortunately most cameras do not work the same way as the human eye so you cannot replicate the effect in pictures without some very expensive equipment. without any doubt Herosharks are the toughest mesh goggles available - they do not claim it, but i have no doubt that they would stop 00 buckshot. They also have the largest holes of any commercially available mesh - this is a two edged sword, because yes, they do let more light in than the common small hole perforated sheet "mesh" that many manufacturers use, but the bits of metal that remain are also amongst the largest...
     
    When you are wearing mesh, your eyes attempt to remain focussed beyond it, which means that whatever you can see of the mesh between your eyes and their point of focus is very blurred and, if it is small enough, it disappears completely. The threshold for this seems to be about 1.1mm, ie if any dimension of a shape of metal is longer than 1.1mm, then it will never completely disappear from your view and will instead leave a very blurry dot of shadow (and since they come in rows there will be rows of these blurry dots of shadow). This is where Herosharks fail - the quasi-triangular shapes left between the offset perforated holes leave about the worst rows of shadowy dots.
     
    You totally do get used to them being there and your brain adapts to looking beyond them, however another problem is that any sudden movement nearby, or if you attempt to glance down at your chest by just moving your eyes, even sudden noises that make your eyes involuntarily move, can all cause your eyes to attempt to refocus on the inside of the goggles. The larger the shadows, the more often this happens, plus, as Esoterick says, if they are unpainted or white on the inside, this makes it happen more often. So what? The trouble is that it takes a while for your eyes and brain to readjust to focus purely beyond the mesh again and not bother about the shadows, so basically the bigger the metal the more time you cannot see...
     
    Still, your eyes will refocus, whereas fully fogged/rained out polycarbonate is a trip back to the safezone hoping you don't fall over something in your path on the way.
     
    In my experience mesh made from interwoven wires, like those Kingrin's, makes the smallest shadows and they can completely disappear from your view. However, in the Kingrin's I personally bought from firesupport.co.uk, the mesh was pretty badly inserted into the frame - there are many of the last bits of wire missing so there is less substance actually holding the mesh in place than there ought to be, which does make me question their safety. The same style ACM ones, like these, have never given me any pause and i have been shot in the face full auto whilst wearing them at least 4 times.
     
    You could also consider doing what I did to a pair of polycarbonate lensed goggles which fit your face well - swap the polycarbonate for mesh you buy yourself. You can then bend the end of each wire to loop around the last wire it crosses, or a boundary wire, to form the edge of the mesh insert. This adds strength because it means that the wires cannot be pulled into the centre of the mesh by deforming pressure - if the wire cannot move, the only way to deform the shape of the holes and thus penetrate the mesh, is to actually stretch the wire - personally i do not believe it is possible for an AEG, BASR, gas or even HPA, propelled plastic BB's to deliver enough energy to a hit to actually stretch 0.7mm steel wire, especially when it is also supported by the friction between each crossover. I also added to the strength of mine by making the mesh replacement bulge out way more than the original lens did, which gives the shape more room to flex and spring back than if it was simply flat.
     
    Mesh Modified ESS Advancer V12's
    ...when I'm wearing these, it only takes seconds before it feels as if there is nothing at all between my eyes and the world.
    The mesh is #8 0.7mm SS316 and you can buy/blag sample sized pieces which are well big enough to do any twin lensed goggles and, from some companies, just about a ski mask type.
  5. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from sharpe in What upgrades are the best (DMR)   
    It really depends how far you want to go, but for a DMR you need to achieve 3 things: 1) consistency of power, 2) range, 3) accuracy.
     
    Consistency because to get the most range you can, you need to push your FPS to close to your site's limit, so you need to ensure that when you chrono you don't have every 3rd shot going over the limit, or whatever. Plus consistency guarantees accuracy in elevation, which is particularly important when you are firing at crouching targets closer than your sight is zeroed for (because you need to know exactly how much to aim down or the BB will sail over your target's head) and also at whatever becomes extreme range for your gun, where hits become a bit doubtful anyway, but people often stand out of cover assuming they are out of range - you have to get 'em with 1 shot, because if you miss they will take cover and you'll not get a hit on half a head.
     
    Range and accuracy speak for themselves, but there are a few things worth noting - ultimately both range and accuracy are a function of how stable the backspin of the BB is in flight, because if the BB yaws wildly then even with a lot of power behind it the lift available from backspin is squandered by not acting directly against gravity, but conversely if the backspin is very stable then more FPS will translate into even more range than it does from a worse set up with a stiffer spring. So let's assume a perfect hop unit, as the BB travels down the barrel the spin around a perfectly horizontal axis can only get knocked off axis, it can't get improved, and how much imperfection is introduced is down to how well polished the interior surface of the inner barrel is - thus the better the barrel you can afford, the better results you will get from your hop.
     
    PDI is the Rolls Royce, or their Raven next best, from x-fire.org - they often have free postage events which will save you about 1600 Yen, but Prometheus also have a good reputation. Madbull Black Python are initially probably better than the likes of Lonex and Deep Fire stainless steel, but you will also need to keep the inside very clean and the Madbull has a surface coating which is not as resilient as steel. I've had good results from a Guarder chromed brass 6.02mm barrel too, but this is in an AKS-74U and I don't clean it that often... still chrome is very hard, so gentle cleaning ought not to damage the layer of it. I also have a chromed 6.03x455mm Falcon barrel and that is pretty impressive too, although the rubber it comes with struggles to lift 0.25g BB's a little so I get better range from 0.2's, which makes accuracy at extreme range suffer.
     
    To get max stability in applied spin you need either a rubber with a split bump, such as a stock CYMA, a PDI W-hold, or a Falcon Dual Point (see above); or a shaped nub such as a RATech hourglass shaped hop cushion (also available from ASPUK), Element H-nub (fleabay), or Madbull Fishbone Spacer (in that order of effectiveness); you can't combine split bump and shaped nub, it's one or the other.
     
    You also want a sticky rubber, because although the softer the rubber the faster it will wear out, especially at higher FPS, the less the rubber is applied to the BB to get the same amount of backspin, the less FPS is lost to its breaking effect, which makes power consistency less temperature dependent. Also it is likely that the harder the BB is squeezed through the hop unit, the more any tiny imperfections in the design will translate into off axis spin. Prometheus Purple (soft) is my fav so far, but Maple Leaf 60 degree has a good rep also.
     
    When you fit a TBB you will instantly get a boost in FPS because less air will escape around the BB in the barrel, so you may well have to change spring, but before that you can do other things to maximise compression, which also increase consistency, and will affect your choice of spring. If you fit the hop rubber so that the bump fits as close to the rear of the barrel as you can get it, the lips of the rubber will make better contact with the air seal nozzle. If you then wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the forward end of the rubber, so it doesn't cover the bump/barrel window end and use some grease on the outside to make this fatter assembly slide into the hop chamber, you will minimise the amount of air which can escape between the rubber and barrel.
     
    Make sure that your air seal nozzle has an O-ring inside it at the base. There are some with 2 O-rings but i'm not convinced they do actually do anything which a smear of grease around the base of the cylinder head spout wouldn't do better. This grease should be applied carefully so that there is enough to make a good seal against the nozzle O-ring but not enough so that it is forward enough to get blasted down the barrel off the interior of the nozzle (check the travel of your tappet plate to determine how far up the cylinder head spout the grease can go). SHS make good aluminium air seal nozzles with O-rings (Bullseye Country Sport).
     
    If you replace your piston head with a Double O-Ring design you will get 20-30 more FPS from your spring and more consistency. To get maximum benefit also thoroughly grease it and the inside of the cylinder with CT-2 Teflon grease (fleabay). Magic Box make the piston head, but they seem to be rare - there are other manufacturers such as Dream Army (khmountain_uk fleabay). Also coat the rails of the piston and spring in CT-2 so that their travel is consistent. A shiny steel spring guide may also help consistency and it can't hurt (SHS - Bullseye CS).
     
    Lastly choose your spring. Predicting what power you need is something of a black art, because the more powerful the compression inside the cylinder, the more any failures of air seal will affect power (and this is not necessarily so simple as more pressure = more leaks because there will be a point at which each component gives way and that will be affected by temperature and humidity, thus it is best to try to achieve whatever FPS is your target with the least powerful spring and best compression, hence O-rings, Teflon grease and the tightest TBB you feel comfortable with for your ammo / or choose your ammo to work with the best 6.01mm TBB you can afford). Guarder springs have a good rep for consistency over time, but SHS are also good. Element springs are not as hard wearing over time, but they do make many half sizes, like M115 rather than 110 or 120 which is the usual convention for manufacturers.
     
    Obviously you will have the spring the gun came with, so if you chrono your set up with that, you will know how much more or less you need. 10 on the spring scale is meant to be 10m/s or approx 30FPS, but bear in mind that those figures are based on averagely decent compression with normal diameter barrels. The longer a TBB is, the more extra FPS you will get from any given spring power increase and also, the better compression, the more that will make the TBB increase power. So basically if you followed all my advice above and are chronoing at say 450FPS and your site limit for semi-auto locked DMR's is 420, then dropping spring power by 10 is not likely to be enough, you would be better to drop by 15. If this then proves a smidge too low, you could use something like a stack of washers slotted over the spring guide to pre-tension the spring a little - this will give a small boost in power. You could also clip a few turns off a spring of 10 less power, but this can be dodgy because the spring needs to be under enough tension when as fully extended as it gets to prevent the piston bouncing off the cylinder head and causing problems with your sector gear engaging it. If you did do that, be sure to bend the end to make it as flat as possible, like the end as supplied, otherwise the power will be off axis making the spring rub against the spring guide and inside of the piston.
     
    Hope that helps
  6. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Squeak0192 in A loadout too far   
    And there's another gun on that ever expanding list of guns to get in the fullness of time!
     
    The donor gun is the ASG M70 Varmint - does anyone know if there is an upgrade route for it?
     
    I've asked Daz @ASPUK, so if/when he comes back with anything I'll repost it here, but it would be good if anyone has direct experience or knows somebody who has.
  7. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Siggi in Importing from Poland???   
    I thought Parcelforce had the same rules as Royal Mail...? In which case they do ship RIF's, so long as they are legal (as regards demilled/restricted parts) and not air weapons. But every now and then you're always going to get a jobsworth who thinks they know what a gwaan and actually knows 'kall... as MN says, just put Toy - it is a fucking toy after all, or sports equipment and put your UKARA number in your address so it says "UKARA# XXXXXXXX" just to cover you if a UK Customs jobsworth X-rays it.
  8. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Fumps in Airsoft Fantasies (not in any way sexual)   
    Oh I'd not just love a decent M41A, but the armour & helmet with working electronics and one of those funky looking pistols Gorman uses as well.
     
    I'm hoping that eventually I will be able to get a Battlestar Galactica loadout together - the OD fatigues with faux suade shoulders, an HK police vest that actually fits me, the belt with dual holsters, 2 x FN 5-7's with underslung launchers (and some electronic means to set off Goblin shells from the launchers) and a Beretta CX-4 Storm AEG.
     
    A Strontium Dog loadout with a computer monitoring realtime comms for keywords and interjecting 'relevant' phrases from gun, helmet and backpack over the comms net... Actually, while I think about 2000AD, an Joe Pineapples suit would look amazing and be majorly impractical to skirmish in
     
     
    Site wise, I'd love to set up a site with a buried grid of high pressure airlines feeding loads of those cone shaped air cannons full of dirt they use for explosions in films, so that you could program artillery into skirmishes.
  9. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Jedi_Master in Airsoft Fantasies (not in any way sexual)   
    Oh I'd not just love a decent M41A, but the armour & helmet with working electronics and one of those funky looking pistols Gorman uses as well.
     
    I'm hoping that eventually I will be able to get a Battlestar Galactica loadout together - the OD fatigues with faux suade shoulders, an HK police vest that actually fits me, the belt with dual holsters, 2 x FN 5-7's with underslung launchers (and some electronic means to set off Goblin shells from the launchers) and a Beretta CX-4 Storm AEG.
     
    A Strontium Dog loadout with a computer monitoring realtime comms for keywords and interjecting 'relevant' phrases from gun, helmet and backpack over the comms net... Actually, while I think about 2000AD, an Joe Pineapples suit would look amazing and be majorly impractical to skirmish in
     
     
    Site wise, I'd love to set up a site with a buried grid of high pressure airlines feeding loads of those cone shaped air cannons full of dirt they use for explosions in films, so that you could program artillery into skirmishes.
  10. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Jedi_Master in Silencers on aegs?   
    Weeeeeell, it's a complex subject, but the simple answer is... sort of
     
    As has been said, the majority of the sound which an AEG generates does not come from the muzzle but radiates directly out through the sides of the receiver, but there is a both a shock wave and compression wave which travel down the barrel (the former at the speed of sound, the latter at whatever speed the air expands and mainly blocked behind the BB {hence the way dry firing sounds different to loaded firing}). Unfortunately the usual ways of dealing with these phenomena are mutually exclusive: the shock wave is best muffled by something absorbtive, the more and the denser the better, so rock wool is a big fav in sound studio design; but the compression wave, the deep bass thump produced by releasing compressed air, is best dealt with by enclosed expansion chambers with openings as small as possible... but if those chambers are full of foam, for eg, the air cannot expand into them without compressing the closed cells of the foam - if the foam is open cell then it should allow expansion more easily, however the substance of the foam is still taking up volume and volume is the crucial factor... since the more the air expands within a chamber, the less pressure is available to exit into the next chamber, and so on.
     
    Something else to bear in mind is the actual length of the waveforms involved and the size of suppressors - wavelength is calculated by the formula lambda = speed of sound / frequency so, if you think about the ports in your hifi speakers, they are tuned to increase the output of the bass around 50-60Hz which you hear in music as the 'umph' of the kick drum, which is a handy comparison since it is made by a similar process of air being compressed inside a large drum escaping through a small port directly into a mic...
     
    343m/s / 50Hz = 6.86m
     
    ...thus you can immediately see that even a long suppressor, say 250mm, full of foam is 3/5ths of fuck all compared to the wavelengths of the bandwidth carrying the majority of the energy in the sound. Still, when you think about the bandwidth of consonants in speech, 5-6KHz, which compares nicely with the obvious crack produced by piston head on cylinder head, 6.86-5.72cm, it's a different story.
     
    There is also a phenomenon known as Helmholz Resonance, which has to do with air moving in/around chambers with specific volumes compared to aperture size (usually but not necessarily tubes) which affects us because a tubular suppressor has a resonant frequency and if this is excited out of phase with sound moving through air around the tube, it cancels out a portion of the bandwidth of similar frequency. In some real steel suppressors (and BMW exhausts) this effect is calculated mathematically, but for us it's really just a case of trial and error.
     
    And having mentioned phase, we must also consider the effect of sound bouncing around inside the suppressor: obviously for longer wavelengths this matters not at all, but for wavelengths short enough to fit within the dimensions of the tube, some of those frequencies will reflect off the walls of the tube, plus any internal barriers, and combine with the sound emerging from the muzzle out of phase, although some of those reflections will also be in phase, so as well as reducing the amplitude/'volume' of some frequencies, it will boost others. But when you consider the complexity of how sound bounces around inside a tube, you'll not be surprised to learn that the net effect is to generally reduce the amplitude of the higher frequencies, with just a few which emerge unscathed/boosted in an effect which is known as 'comb filtering'.
     
    A complicating factor is that, in the UK, it is illegal to manufacture a device intended to reduce the report of a firearm, which greatly reduces our choice of materials, because whatever we build must fail immediately if you were to fit it to the muzzle of an actual firearm and fire it. On top of that, when the BB leaves the barrel, due to hop up, it has a tendency to rise slightly which means that the gap down the centre of the suppressor must be wider than would be ideal for the expansion chamber theory because, although we could experiment to find exactly how high a 6.08mm hole in each internal barrier should be, in comparison to a straight line from the centre of the barrel, this would only work clamped to a bench - out in the field when it's subject to slight imperfections of horizontal level and involuntary body movements, given the best circumstances, and wholesale bobbing about when firing whilst running, for eg, the BB's hit the internal barriers (I've tried it).
     
    IMO the best design to go with, which most people could make easily enough, is one which uses foam barriers, glued to the internal walls of the tube to form separate expansion chambers, each of which should be a different length to give you a better spread of Helmholtz Resonance. This allows the foam to flex and spring back so that its mechanical springiness will have a slight effect on frequencies lower than those which its thickness would tend to suggest (this is a phenomenon well understood in studio design where you try to leave a space between your rock wool and the solid wall behind). You can, and if possible should, use barriers with tighter holes than are generally provided through the foam rings in stock suppressors and a denser foam is desirable also. This is a very simplified diagram of the design:


    The effect is to dampen the upper frequencies of the sound which emerges from the muzzle. This change of note is of slightly more significance than the simple slight reduction of overall volume, because bass frequencies are more difficult for us to locate than higher frequencies, due to the distance between our ears being much less than the wavelength of bass frequencies. So, if you also fit ICS helical gears, for eg, and shim them well, Kanzen or Modify Ceramic bearings, Teflon grease, and either Sorbothane pads to the piston head and/or cylinder head, so called 'silent' piston head and cylinder head set, or a Lees Precision Engineering air brake piston head, you can significantly reduce the sound an AEG makes and also make it more difficult for the opposition to know which bush you are firing from...
     
    At some point I really should get round to writing this info up as a proper guide, but I also have an idea in mind based on a particular type of real steel suppressor which may be a fair bit more effective than the above design, but I just haven't been arsed to try it out yet...
     
    Oh yeah, and before I forget, James... I know it bugs the arse off you, but let's have it right - if you do nothing else to a gun other than fit a longer internal barrel, then, so long as the barrel is of at least the same quality as that which you replaced, you will get slightly more FPS, no reduction in hop stability, and therefore slightly more range. That doesn't mean that a different gun with a shorter barrel might not have better range, or that you cannot get that increase in range in another way than replacing the barrel, but there we are, all things hop-wise being equal, more FPS = more range, and longer barrels do allow the expansion of air behind the BB to accelerate the BB for longer...
     
    Edit to add: that diagram is actually incorrect with respect to the position of the BB, because the shock wave, the sound which bounces around inside the tube, arrives well ahead of the BB, not behind it. But trying to draw it that way was just complicating the issue.
  11. Like
    Ian_Gere got a reaction from Jedi_Master in Quick Questions & Simple Answers.   
    I know that Sacarathe deleted this question, but I decided to answer it anyway, because it offers the potential for good advice on a topic that is relevant to many of us...
     
    1st off, I haven't heard of any particular criticisms of the CYMA P90, so I expect that it is no worse than most manufacturers' efforts and, despite the price, probably better than some. However, it is a P90 and, yeah, I must admit to a violent bias here, I mean I fucking hate 'em, but that aside, I'm not sure many people, except Stargate SG1 fans, who go airsofting for the first time, would think of a P90 as cool looking. That leaves the only advantage as a loaner being its size and weight - it would be easy to drop in a bag as an extra gun and few mags to take along with your own gun, mags, and gear. But there are plenty of small assault rifles and SMG's with folding stocks, to mention but a few: AKS-74U/N, G36C, HK UMP, 4" barrel M4...
     
    With the exception of the UMP, the mags of those all fit into pretty standard, cheap, pouches (such as 90's era British Army gear) and/or cargo pants pockets, whereas a P90 mag is an awkward bastard even if you have the right pouches - probably easier for total noobs to deal with a standard underneath mag change too, regardless of where on their body they carry spares. G36 mags can be a bit of a ball-ache, with those side lugs getting caught on the cloth of pockets or pouches, but of course they can also be double stacked quite easily, so it's swings and roundabouts in terms of pro's vs cons.
     
    In short then, I would say yes, indeed, anyone would regret buying a P90, of any description, as a loaner...
  12. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Jedi_Master in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    Of course, being a Palestinian revolutionary the AK47 would be an obvious choice too.
  13. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to ImTriggerHappy in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    Jesus would use a cross-bow or maybe a nail gun.
  14. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Jedi_Master in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    I expect that JC would shoot a Galil.
  15. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Nutster in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    My best Jesus impression from weekend

  16. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to sp00n in The "Share A Bargain" Thread   
    40mm reflex red/green dot sight (got one on my mp5 ATM) £13.99 with free delivery from uk supplier
     
    eBay item number 111548896618
  17. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to EvilMonkee in The 'What have you just bought' Thread   
    PDI 6.05 420mm barrel for the AS VAL....
  18. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to EvilMonkee in The 'What have you just bought' Thread   
    New aluminium GHK AK Hop unit
    2 G&G Greens
    Prommie Purple
    2 AS VAL Mags
    AS VAL Rail Kit
    Lonex V3 Hop Unit
    East German Bayonet and E-Tool
    GHK AK Co2 Mag
  19. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Monty in The 'What have you just bought' Thread   
    590mm DeepFire 6.04mm barrel
    705mm DeepFire 6.04mm barrel and silencer
    MilSpex three point sling
    Aplus pistol bucking
  20. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Sacarathe in Quick Questions & Simple Answers.   
    Thanks, appreciate the reply.
     
    The reason for my question, was that I wouldn't spend much on a loaner, but I wouldn't loan an expensive p90. If I buy any p90 now, it will be for me and I'll wait until I'm good and ready to buy a TM P90 for myself in a few years. Except, for the reasons above, I still think they're a little pricey. A shame the Magpul PDR-C has no locking semi.
  21. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to mightyjebus in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    Russian loadout from today.


  22. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Zak Da Mack in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    Going to the woodlands this Sunday. Really hoping for snow. Although, being the UK, I expect very little at all this year... again.
     
    p.s. Is airsoft in the antarctic a thing?
  23. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to djben9 in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    lets hope you get some snow to try the camo out
  24. Like
    Ian_Gere reacted to Zak Da Mack in Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic   
    INTRODUCING CAPTAIN COMMUNISM!!
  25. Like
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