RR01

It's a while since I had one of these, but I think Monkeywrencher is correct.  I'm sure the "nozzle" at the end of the CO2 container holds the valve mechanism and it's the action of this hitting the end of the new replacement piston head that releases a small amount of CO2, sufficient to send the bb on its way. I have something similar in my CO2 powered Sig Sauer MCX 0.177 pellet rifle.  The amount of CO2 needed isn't that great to push out the projectile at airsoft speeds.

Just for an update, Dorset Gun Co are now a Section 5 Firearms dealership and no longer deal in airsoft of any kind.

I've got a pair (for sale, as I'm giving up playing) and found that they do fog a little, as will most enclosed goggles. However, I use either Fogtech or an anti-fog spray from the optician and find that that works well for 2-3 hours, after which the lenses need to be wiped and a drop more Fogtech or spray applied. Even then, in warm, sweaty conditions you do get a bit of moisture on the lens, but that rolls to the bottom and you can see through reasonably easily. If you want totally fog free eyepro though, then go for mesh, otherwise I found these very comfortable and a total seal around the eyes.

If you are interested, £12 incl. postage. PM me your e-mail and I'll send you pics of them.

If price isn't an issue then try Mike Cripps at Elite Shooting Centre (http://www.eliteshootingcentre.co.uk). You can't order online, only over the phone, but Mike's guns are highly regarded in the AIPSA (airsoft version of IPSA) clubs and as they come in rather fancy colours they are regarded as two tone, so no UKARA required. They may be a bit pricier that the all black versions, but are tuned well and will give you the years of use if properly maintained, which if you've been shooting air weapons for years you will know how to do.

agreed - length doesn't always mean more
(I keep telling Mrs Duck that one - but she still laughs at my excuses)
 
Sometimes you can feel a strong short spring when closing up box but often that means only a rough rough guide
reason I say that is one time I was fitting a m105 and thought wtf this is a bit beefy....
turns out I grabbed a m115 and wondered why I was shooting 380fps - ahhh the m105 still inits packet
but missing m115 spring enlightened me to one of my many many foolish mistakes

Spring strength isn't determined by length. I have some long springs that shoot sub-300fps and a short one that's in excess of 400fps. It depends more on the strength of the coils and the tension in them. A standard M100 in a short barrel MP5 should shoot at low 300s, unless you have already upgraded all the other bits in the gearbox. It will also change if you have bearing spring guides fitted to the piston head and spring guide base, as that will shorten the amount of space the spring has to fit and expand when under tension on the firing cycle. If you have already stripped the gearbox then fit the new spring and run two or three full hicap mags through the gun to bed in the spring, then get it chrono'd at the next game. And as PT247 said, set up the hop for 0.25s or 0.30s then chrono with 0.2s on this setting, as that should reduce the fps by about 20-30fps. Then play with the heavier BBs until the spring settles in and you can set the hop for your BB weight of choice, although 0.25s really ought to be the minimum weight you use for better accuracy and grouping.

some bigger batteries can actually lower your OWN fps I found....
 

 
lasted ages but was maybe a liitle to large & a right bitch to use as some cqb sites
(soz I'll get me coat)

Yes, the piston seal needs to be loose as it expands on the forward stroke to seal the piston to the cylinder and expel the air. Have you tried putting a bit of silicon grease on the piston ring? If the seal is dry then it will not seal tightly enough to give full pressure. If you have the gearbox apart, try putting the piston into the cylinder with your finger over the end of the pipe coming out of the cylinder head, with the open end upwards. If the piston (and head) seal is good, then the piston should either drop very slowly, or not at all, even if you press down on it. If the piston drops straight down, or moves very easily under finger pressure then you have an air seal leak, either around the piston seal or the one sealing the head to the cylinder.
 
If the seal is good then the issue is probably either a weak spring has been put in the gearbox, or you have a sealing issue between the nozzle and the hop rubber, or the hop is turned too far on.

The other option is to go north to Gloucester and try out StrikeForce CQB. This offer a huge old factory floor, split into lots of little rooms for some fast paced action. There are usually loads of people there and you can rent a RIF for the first few games. The best part is that it's all under cover, so wind and rain won't spoil your game (apart from the walk over to Burger King for lunch) and you won't have to slide around in mud, like at Spartan.

SD is slightly wrong on phones. They use L-ion which is a Lithium Ion battery. Still can cause a problem, but a slightly different configuration.

My A&K SVD came with what I think was about an M150 spring, which OOTB was doing about 475 fps with an 0.2BB. With that I did find that the trigger sear was wearing quite quickly. I replace just about everything with the parts available from: http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/index.php?cPath=93_204&osCsid=d6022784d5e8c212edbdecaac7a1c8ee . I also put in a 600mm 6.01 steel inner barrel, but found I had to use very high quality ammo, as anything a bit suspect would jamb in the barrel on occasions.
 
If you want higher consistent power then the upgraded piston and steel sear are a must, as well as the cocking lever extension, as pulling back something that small gets quite tiring on high strength springs. The alternative is to look at the CO2 upgrade kit on the above link. That takes all the strain out of cocking the gun, but if not set up just right with the correct spring, can mean FPS in excess of 550 or even 600 on a new bulb.

My A&K SVD came with what I think was about an M150 spring, which OOTB was doing about 475 fps with an 0.2BB. With that I did find that the trigger sear was wearing quite quickly. I replace just about everything with the parts available from: http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/index.php?cPath=93_204&osCsid=d6022784d5e8c212edbdecaac7a1c8ee . I also put in a 600mm 6.01 steel inner barrel, but found I had to use very high quality ammo, as anything a bit suspect would jamb in the barrel on occasions.
 
If you want higher consistent power then the upgraded piston and steel sear are a must, as well as the cocking lever extension, as pulling back something that small gets quite tiring on high strength springs. The alternative is to look at the CO2 upgrade kit on the above link. That takes all the strain out of cocking the gun, but if not set up just right with the correct spring, can mean FPS in excess of 550 or even 600 on a new bulb.

F&O do not allow smoke at the Outpost, as it would stay there for days. The temperature remains fairly constant at about 50F all year, so cool in summer and warm in winter. It can get very "up close" there, especially if someone is waiting in the dark to ambush you, so full face or glasses and face mask is recommended.

Charging just before a game is a good idea, but depending on how much charge was in the battery before will effect how long you need to charge it to get it fully charged. It's always best to check the voltage before you start charging. A 9.6v Nihm is discharged if the voltage shows 9.6v, but fully charged if it shows around 11.2v.
 
The formula for charging a Nihm battery is: mAh x 1.5 divided by Amp output of charger. So for your 1600 mAh Nihm charge time is 1600 x 1.5 = 2400 divided by the charge rate of your charger. Charging slowly is better than fast, so if you have a charger that you can vary the rate on, charge at the lower end, e.g. 120mA. On that basis, the charge time would be 20 hours. If you have something that charges at 500mH then charge time is 4.8 hours, but usable time will drop. Also, depending on how trigger happy you are, the mAh of the battery equates to about one BB shot per mAh, so 1600 bbs or 4-5 M4 hi-caps, probably a bit less if using semi only.
 
Oh and for the CYMA 030, do not overcharge the battery, as they die quite easily.

Are you moving the adjusters in the correct direction? If the point of impact of the BB is down and left of where the red dot is pointing then you move the adjustment in those directions. As mentioned above, try moving one complete turn on each adjuster, then shoot again at the same aim point as before and see where the BB impacts the target. If that makes no difference, try another 360 degree turn on each. If it's still hitting the same point then probably the adjusters are broken and you should return it as faulty. If it is changing the impact point, then go to smaller adjustments until you get it spot on.

Are you moving the adjusters in the correct direction? If the point of impact of the BB is down and left of where the red dot is pointing then you move the adjustment in those directions. As mentioned above, try moving one complete turn on each adjuster, then shoot again at the same aim point as before and see where the BB impacts the target. If that makes no difference, try another 360 degree turn on each. If it's still hitting the same point then probably the adjusters are broken and you should return it as faulty. If it is changing the impact point, then go to smaller adjustments until you get it spot on.

Just a thought, but be aware that if you use an AEG with a high ROF on auto then either be prepared to carry a load of midcap mags and change often, or do a lot of winding of hicaps to maintain the spring pressure to feed the bbs. High ROF may be useful, but an accurate rifle on semi, or three round burst (if you have a programmable mosfet fitted), can be far more effective that spraying 50-100 bbs down range in the hope of hitting something. That is really only worthwhile if you have a support gun and need to keep peoples heads down whilst your team mates move forward on them. I know BBs are cheap compared to paintballs, but why waste 100s of bbs when 2 or 3 can do the same job and you won't get someone being angry at overkill.

Just a thought, but be aware that if you use an AEG with a high ROF on auto then either be prepared to carry a load of midcap mags and change often, or do a lot of winding of hicaps to maintain the spring pressure to feed the bbs. High ROF may be useful, but an accurate rifle on semi, or three round burst (if you have a programmable mosfet fitted), can be far more effective that spraying 50-100 bbs down range in the hope of hitting something. That is really only worthwhile if you have a support gun and need to keep peoples heads down whilst your team mates move forward on them. I know BBs are cheap compared to paintballs, but why waste 100s of bbs when 2 or 3 can do the same job and you won't get someone being angry at overkill.

To be honest, no. Although the venue is semi only, you are going to be out-ranged and out-classed by those of us that use rifles. They do limit ammo per game, but unless you are carrying about 10-15 mags with you you'll have to leave the game and re-load in the safe area every few minutes, as in-game reloads are not allowed. If you want to go, book in and hire one of their rifles and just use your pistol as a backup. And an electric G18 isn't going to be anywhere near as good as a GBB pistol even in that environment. They are better as a backup for winter woodland games where gas cool down limits how well GBB pistols work in cold weather.

Having read through as much of the consultation paper as I can, before getting brain ache, I do think that at last the Government has decided to get their Act together (pun intended) in relation to firearms and, from the tone of the consultation paper, I do think it will overall be of benefit to the airsoft industry and our hobby. I would prefer that they use the 2.5J - 1.3J limits, otherwise we might all have to end up buying TM products to keep below the 328fps / 1J limit. The paper does at least seem to side with the airsoft industry, so there is hope for us yet.
 
The really daft part of the current legislation is obviously that over 18s can still buy and use a 12ft/lb air rifle, which has a rifled barrel and can shoot a pointed projectile at around 12J and which can kill vermin, and cause significant injury to a human, but is prohibited, without access to the provisions of the VCRA specific defense, from buying an airsoft RIF that shoots a round projectile out of a smooth bore at around 1 - 1.3J and which, whilst it can break skin (I know from numerous games!!), cannot puncture to sufficient depth or with sufficient kinetic energy to cause significant injury.
 
Hopefully in a few years we can have a much more user friendly Firearms Act that defines airsoft RIFs as toys and takes them out of the FA entirely. We can only hope.

If you bought it new then contact the retailer to get the problems sorted under warranty. Taking things apart yourself will likely invalidate any warranty and could leave you out of pocket.

If you bought it new then contact the retailer to get the problems sorted under warranty. Taking things apart yourself will likely invalidate any warranty and could leave you out of pocket.

Can't see anything wrong with any of your points, other than as a site you would not have a UKARA registration, unless you join UKARA as a site operator / retailer, so would not be able to get any whole RIFs through customs without it. Not sure of the requirements for joining, but no doubt others on here will be able to assist. If not, try giving them a call.
 
As to setting up the company, you would probably be advised to register for VAT, as even if you do not gross enough in the first year to be required to register (about £80K these days I think), you could still voluntarily register, which means you can offset the VAT you pay on imports and anything you buy in the EU against the sales / charges to make in the business. The other problems will be with the various legislation, other than VCRA, that you need to comply with as a business. You would do well to consult a solicitor and accountant before you decide to go ahead and spend any real money on setting this up, just to make sure you are fully aware of all the likely problems you might encounter.
 
Once you are satisfied that you are going ahead with your eyes open then consider setting up a Limited Company as a little bit of protection for your personal assets. You could either buy one "off the shelf" or have one set up specifically tailored to your needs (they tend to cost a bit more) but £500 ought to be enough to get you up and running (I set up companies all the time, but for clients of a firm of solicitors, so cannot help directly).
 
Other than that, good luck with your new venture.

Can't see anything wrong with any of your points, other than as a site you would not have a UKARA registration, unless you join UKARA as a site operator / retailer, so would not be able to get any whole RIFs through customs without it. Not sure of the requirements for joining, but no doubt others on here will be able to assist. If not, try giving them a call.
 
As to setting up the company, you would probably be advised to register for VAT, as even if you do not gross enough in the first year to be required to register (about £80K these days I think), you could still voluntarily register, which means you can offset the VAT you pay on imports and anything you buy in the EU against the sales / charges to make in the business. The other problems will be with the various legislation, other than VCRA, that you need to comply with as a business. You would do well to consult a solicitor and accountant before you decide to go ahead and spend any real money on setting this up, just to make sure you are fully aware of all the likely problems you might encounter.
 
Once you are satisfied that you are going ahead with your eyes open then consider setting up a Limited Company as a little bit of protection for your personal assets. You could either buy one "off the shelf" or have one set up specifically tailored to your needs (they tend to cost a bit more) but £500 ought to be enough to get you up and running (I set up companies all the time, but for clients of a firm of solicitors, so cannot help directly).
 
Other than that, good luck with your new venture.

It may well be a blown fuse, even allowing for the fact that you have a 30Amp one in there. It may be that tightening the adjustment screw caused it all to jamb up and that could easily overload the fuse. If you have access to a multimeter then test for continuity (if it's not obviously showing a break). Alternatively if the gearbox has seized then that could also produce the symptoms you describe, especially as you are running on an 11.1V Lipo. Are the gearbox and motor fully upgraded to be able to handle that increased load? Stock gearboxes that are not produced with upgraded gears, piston, etc. don't last long on 11.1V Lipos, so you could be looking at an expensive repair job.
 
To correctly set the motor height you need to run the gun on auto and increase / decrease the screw pressure until you get the smoothest, least screechy noise from the motor / gearbox.