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Well the Novritsch FET works a treat and for sure it was the switch that was goosed in this Cyma. Definitely feels perkier in action now. The other one I managed to fix is still stock but has a small issue with BBs going left consistently about the width of my front sight at 2 to 3 meters. I've cleaned the barrel and hop up and reseated the rubber piece a few times. Is it likely needing a new hop up rubber cap at the root of the barrel or could this be cause by something else? I have it totally wound to the min for no hop but seems no different if I scroll through the hop up range and take a few shots at each spot till it's maxed. Is there an upgrade option for this piece that makes sense? Any clues to follow much appreciated. My mistake it seems was to order from patrol base for some LT2 grease for the gearbox. Now 2 weeks with no order, no reply to several emails and they always have like 15 people before me to wait if I call. Is this normal for patrol base? Just too busy or something? £6.95 postage too. EDIT, paypal refunded, bought from amazon and gearbox running much quieter now. Regarding the hopup. I tried the rubber cap from my other CYMA and It still shoots left ever so slightly but accurate and repeatable. The barrel doesn't look bent. Beyond replacing the hop up part in full, is there any way to sort this out with iron sights as I don't really want a red dot.

I'm told they actually went for bushings over bearings for 'increased durability'. Might be marketing speak for cheaper than bearings. Thank you. I've accepted we'll be needing a main weapon at some point and enjoying slowly soaking up the banquet of options even if it does seem pretty endless. If they are pants in a real world airsoft setting, that's ok as they seem to be perfect for a super low running cost home target practice till I actually get a site visit. I found out the switch is identical, just a different colour so ordered the Novritsch replacement FET for a hopefully straight forward drop in upgrade. SSE18 Mosfet Harness Gen2 – Novritsch | Airsoft What was the failure point for you when using 3s? Cycled too fast and damaged stuff or cooked something? Is it cool to power the gearbox directly to check it's cycling ok before assembly should I feel like stripping it down? 2s of course. Is molly grease good to go here or do I need something else? Thanks for the input

So this little journey started with a TM AAA powered glock that was used for plinking in the house. I decided to stick a lipo inside it and although there really isn't many parts, all of which are still there and undamaged, finding exactly how they go together again is not happening. Well it's together but not cycling or feeding BBS but does have power. Didn't work after a house move but was in the box which isn't crushed so no clues there. I looked for teardowns of which there's endless vids but noone seems to have wasted their time on one of these bottom of the barrel cheapos that I can find. I thought I understood it but it seems not. Anyone here managed to reassemble one of these and can offer some advise? I presume the gears are correct spot but not rotated exactly like they need to be, maybe. It's not important really but it's a shame to bin it when I could gift it to someone. I can post a few pics if so but there's a few more pressing questions. After this confidence crushing fail and a week or so of window shopping, I decided some retail therapy would help and replaced it with a Novritsch SSE18 which I really dig so far. I kinda expected much worse but I was close to buying a 2nd for some fun with my bro and a potential airsoft day with some other friends as my old GBB M90 is utterly useless in the UK weather. Dumping money into more mags for that seems retarded plus the gas running costs for that dire performance. I ended up buying a couple broken CYMA glocks instead and they make so much more sense to strip than the TM AAA powered toy. Thanks to a cluster of YT videos i'm fairly confident both issues are sorted and it's probably worth adding a FET and lipo of some description. Which brings me to the questions i'm hoping you guys can help with... The SSE18 seems more powerful to me, does it actually have a stronger spring in the gearbox than the no FET CYMA offerings? Or is the snappier action simply due to the lipo and or FET and added power is placebo? i'll grab a basic chrono soo but dumped enough cash for this month. Is there a more sensible option than just buying the 13 euro Novritsch one and dropping that in? I don't need a faster full auto although it would be fun for giggles but I do want to dump the nimh and make it feel perky like the SSE 18. Will this SSE18 FET run on 3S ok? I understand there would be more wear etc but electrically is it rated for it? I presume it's a CYMA board. Does adding a FET stop any switch corrosion? Can I just use molly grease in these gearboxes? Novritsch won't offer any help regarding their gearbox compatibility and CYMA gearbox, switch, or if 3S will kill the FET board or not but is it compatible with the CM030 and CM127? Is their gen2 gearbox a CYMA V3? Any and all info much appreciated. Thank you, Liam