SoupyXo

in my hop unit, it does have the nub attached to the arm, but im unsure if id need to change it, or if i can... regardless, there are too many options and not a whole lot of sense made in the item descriptions for the parts, which makes it that much more difficult to pick the right bits

hahaha i used to go there with my nan on the weekend for a day out, was never really a holiday thing, just a bus ride and a few quid spent at the seaside where dracula lived XD

ahh the memories of my £25 desert fox springer bb gun that i bought, myself, in Whitby, at one of the random weird shit stalls when i was 9 years old, and it looked pretty realistic, even said desert fox .50 cal down the side of it (could have fooled vinnie jones) .... stretched the spring for a bit more power, and then had my dad tell me to throw it away.... but now i cant buy an unpainted spring sniper from a retailer because i dont have a defence... im more likely to shoot myself with my RIF's than try rob a bank, or mug someone, and even the criminals are more likely to use a knife or a REAL gun in an armed robbery.... they're not hard to get hold of if you know the right coke dealer

so, if im replacing the motor, ill need a pinion gear for it, how do i select the right gear for the motor and gears in the gearbox? which hop rubber should i buy to replace the one i currently have, and which nub would i need for it (stock blue specna rotary hop unit) and would it be better to replace the bushings with bearing style bushings and re-shim it while im doing all the work?

the ends are fine, its just that little dip in the larger part... but, i did buy it ''new'' from ''that retailer'' .... so it wouldn't be surprising if it wasn't new ... in saying that, when i was cleaning the gearbox of all the blue shit, i checked the air seal on the piston and it felt like a hotdog in a hallway...

ill pop the hop rubber out after i see if its off centre, and ill get a picture of it the hop rubber is really oily, I'm not sure why but it feels slick... opened the gearbox the other day and that was caked in blue grease so I've cleaned and re-greased that with abbey silicon... anyway, you can see the damage that's apparent on the hop rubber, and the divot that's there... that could be an issue right?

im not going to be using the active braking anyway on the warfet, i just want the pre-cocking and fire mode selection for full auto so i can get 3 round burst instead of full auto, and the warhead is literally just because i dont like brushed motors as for the alignment, it seems to be ok, but i dont know really what im looking at, or what im looking for... as mentioned, the hop rubber looked ike it had a divot or a pressure mark in it as if something was resting on it for too long.... maybe thats the issue?

very very likely, but warfet + warhead + pre-cocking = no problem, and i get the added bonus of better trigger response. while im in there fettling and fitting the warfet wiring, i can spin the cylinder so the gap isnt visible, to really do a neg airsoft and fucking piss the wankers off XD from what i can tell by the old eye chrono, its still whipping them out at about 300fps, and chucking them a good 120 feet, just with a hectic side spin to the right..... let the good old ''never wrong'' site chrono tell me im hot... ill laugh and agree, and then say ''i know i am, but this is mostly stock'' while pointing at the aeg lmao

no, its just in the standard ''battery to trigger to motor'' setup currently, nothing fancy... i use 7.4v lipo, so warfet for pre-cocking (no active braking) with a warhead 20k rpm long shaft base brushless sounds good to me it seemed fine. the hop was way off when i put it back in and it sounded like it was struggling to fire, but i adjusted it and it sounded like it did before, and still presented the same sidespin issue... somewhat lost as to what to do with it, but learning isn't a bad thing

further update - still got sidespin to the right... nit sure if the hop rubber is farked and i'm getting very annoyed at the semi auto getting stuck, so i think i might be buying a warfet for pre-cocking, a maple leaf macaron, and the associated nub... airsoft is fun

so i had a look at the hop rubber again and it had a little divot in it, sort of like it'd been sat in there with pressure on it toward the rear of the rubber, and it was kind of oily too... cleaned and re-seated it, will test it soon

i have taken the inner out before to check the hop rubber and nub, they looked ok so i cleaned them and popped them back in, and it seemed to work ok, until i noticed it was actually sending the bb's off to the right while i was ADS shooting at targets (cans and some old garden lights lol) in the garden the other day..... i was thinking about getting a maple leaf anyway, just not sure which one id need, and not sure which nub to buy either

so i saw a thread a while ago about hop setting, but its disappeared... my aeg seems to send bb's to the right after about 15 feet, and it sometimes has feed issues, not too often but still has feed issues every once in a while (its a windy uppy mag, so that could be the issue with feeding) how would i go about correcting the accuracy on it (specna arms c17 core bone stock) so it fires dead straight and on target?

a coat of paint removes the wait... well it does and it doesn't you still gotta wait for the paint to dry, but thats neither here nor there...

Heres a specna spring guide that doesnt require fettling to fit - https://urbanairsoftuk.com/product/specna-arms-sa-e02-edge-rra-carbine-replica-half-tan/ and heres a specna stock tube that comes with new hardware - https://urbanairsoftuk.com/product/buffer-tube-for-ar15-specna-arms-edge-replicas/

you really did her dirty on that one didn't ya boss.....

i didn't know the esc was built in to the can, there's barely any documentation or ''real'' specifications, because as someone mentioned in an earlier comment, people are scared they'll be copied

i don't mind spending a small fortune, but it has to be at least reasonably justifiable, say for example the kit i have so far, i can justify because i want to get to a site asap, and get my membership, which ill probably do on day 1 of going, for cheaper rates and access to the glory of non painted rif's... but £90 for a spinny boi that makes the pew go brrr at 20,000 rippums (or higher) with an 11.1v lipo, and does it a touch quieter than the brushed pile of shit that's in it now... cant justify that... not unless im doing a very nice build, which with no defence, i am not doing.... because vcra says im technically manufacturing imitation firearms by building one with no defence (fucking government)

i guess they're just not as advertised or known then, all i could find was warhead when i searched for airsoft brushless

this one got me laughing hard when i read it.... so i searched for a neodymium 22t motor... @ak2m4 popped up did you forget the part where the gate says its had 22,000 rounds through it by the way.....

ive seen a brushed can go nuclear in many applications (6s lipo was the best one to watch go up in flames)

we wouldn't have to dish out serious cash if they were cheaper, like they should be, since lets be realistic, they're not expensive for other applications, and its not like the form factor is a massive hinderance, slim motors aren't niche, they just aren't common in airsoft because they're ridiculously overpriced, because as far as I've seen, only warhead makes brushless motors, and the rest are brushed stone age technology. from an RC perspective, where you can spend £30 on a 10t brushless sensored motor, that does just as much as the £120 brushless sensored 10t (minus of course the timing adjustments on the end of the can, which would be brand dependent) its a bit of a kick in the face... corner the market, hike the price, and fuck the people who cant pay £90 for a motor cos they can buy a shit brushed motor instead. like, id be willing to pay the price for one, but i have more sense (most of the time) brushless has a lot of benefits over brushed, including noise reduction, tunability, the fact that the brushes don't wear because its magnetic wizardry, speed, sensitivity, size, weight, even the looks....

im not sure how this thread works, and i dont know all too much just yet, but this one might fit the bill

yeah nah, im willing to at least play twice a month, i have a site literally a mile away and its cqb indoors, ukara registered site, next door to an army surplus store... convenient huh, and given that im an enjoyer of the pewpew, airsoft replicas are something i would buy to collect if nothing else opting for the lower speed motor is a choice, and a suggestion, based on the experience of destroying spur and pinion gears like rocks at sheets of A4 paper... it gets worse with nitro power... imagine a nitro powered airsoft minigun... ok im gonna end up on a tangent again 😂 a dip switch board that fits in an accessible but not exposed area of the gun would work for this... flip a switch, mode 1, flip another, mode 2, and another for mode 3, or a sequence of 3 switches for another.... it could be done, possibly faster with a button on the receiver maybe... i dunno, its something to look into this is why i like luke at negative airsoft... his no nonsense absolutely bullshit free stance is hilarious, and addicting.... the man is a legend in his own right

*waits for jeeves to pop in with the silver platter and napkin to tell us all we're poor and peasants and to get out of the lord's chatroom* yeah nah i get it, like i said, maybe the person showing the mosfet's just did a shit job of doing a ''walkaround'' as it were.... i like to know all the details, so i can see what im truly getting for the amount of money im paying for a small piece of PCB with a few £4 pieces of silicon and some capacitors on it does... paying £70 for something barely larger than a deans connector, that has an led and beeps... makes me cringe pressing ''Pay Now'' i like to be wined and dined before i pay a lot of money for a flash drive i cant store stuff on XD im also capped for daily posts again lol