SSPKali

Mags aren’t seated properly, either not high enough or they rock.
 
Add a touch of Velcro / tape to the rear of the magwell, pretty common with these.

I have a few different shore rating spacers on their way to me and I’ll give them a go. I read up on the silicone mod and it sounds a bit fiddly but can be tuned to suit the build and customised.

Just rebuilt the gear box with a full tooth sector and M105 spring - might be running a little quieter and an extra beep of pre-cocking it is still very snappy.
 
Still need to check FPS but that is a bit of a PITA and I need to take it apart again for the buffer pad 😂

My son has autism and ADHD and as much as I'd love to bring him to a game for some father son pew time it's not going to happen as I know he doesn't have the best impulse control, even with meds, so I'm not going to put his or other people's safety at risk for our entertainment

If there's a tangible danger to others then someone's disability or neuro divergency / whatever is irrelevant.  I'm in a mixed race marriage, I'm somewhere on "the" spectrum, I have three nephews anchoring said spectrum to the ground, my teenager is mixed raced (and currently hating it) and I think our gay friend contingent is just about offset by my devout muslim workforce.....  So I like to think my worldview is pretty balanced.
 
That being said....   We spend too much time in this world worrying about those differences, when really we should all be treated with the same consideration and respect as we wish to have.  Therefore, if you're one of those that should be seen next Tuesday, then you should be treated thusly.  
 
I remember coming of age in the 90's and caring more about people being nice to one another than worrying about their situation.   Airsoft sites need to worry about people's eyeballs more than they do the ability to walk, think, self identify... I think that is probably how society should look at things too.
 
 

I and others have had good consistent success with fishtank silicone or others silicone meant to bind glass. As for exact brand, I use Locktite brand (I believe) but I haven't done much experimenting since what I have works. If you'd like some more in-depth info, there's a thread on the subject by the creator on the AirsoftSniperForum under Long Range AEGs.

Rtv silicone varies in hardness. You'd want a recommendation for some. 
 

Silicone cylinder head buffer mod, if you have enough space. Remove the previous buffer, sand the area rough, use fishtank silicone to create a buffer, and then cut it to the correct size. In my experience this mod performs much better than sorbo or other typical buffer materials. Additionally, silicone instantly rebounds to its original volume, so your cylinder volume is the same each shot (vs sorbo where your FPS can get wonky due to the material not being elastic enough).

It's useful to know how your own setup performs if you like to fiddle. I'm the same
It's difficult to remove that smacking, some used an airbrake but it's very difficult because of the way the guns work.
If the cylinder maintained pressure maybe you could do it, but it might rebounding anyway so I dunno

I have been running TM and GM nozzles without it and had no issues, pretty sure the end of the bolt carrier stops in the receiver end face and not relying on some thin plastic to stop it! Not sure how well that tiny spring would slow the bolt mass and return spring either!

Ok, but if you don’t need the air volume why waste time and battery energy pulling the piston all the way back for every shot? 

Woodland I don't mind so much because you more typically know that the badmen are over yonder.
 
In CQB, I dislike mid-blue or dingy-red versus bright-yellow.  When milliseconds count, it's so much easier to positively identify a target when they're wearing something bright.
 
And both arms, please, I don't need to be doing the mental gymnastics of inferring a positive from a conditional negative.  This gets even worse when you have unbanded marshals wandering around too.
 
Of course, a team-kill is a kill.  

And bush Wookies that put them on their ankles.

I'm sure these easy ways to work stuff out is pretty damn accurate & no calculator
or degree in mathematical engineering required

I have checked them and the gears ratio saves a major headache indeed
(unless you love counting up tiny teeth - 21 22 23 23 - no crap start again 1 2 3)
 
Count amount of turns on bevel gear to rotate the sector gear 1 full revolution & multiply by 3
checked this against stock, high speed & high torque gears - works out very well
and finally figured out wtf all them 100:200 & 100:300 gears bloody mean as well
 
Then just recently noticed how the port on cylinder kind of works out right without
all that Pi r ² crap working out volumes of cylinder & barrel and ratios etc....

So please have a look and if your own gun is running well see if the cylinder port bit makes sense
eg: length to port minus 12mm aprox = say 30mm....
multiply that final figure by ten - yeah I think you shouldn't need calculator for that one
= 300mm barrel for that port position

yes there a few variables eg: Tight Bore & Bore up kits but in general these will only throw out figures
on volume ratio by about 1% to 1.5% max on each variable....
 
I have checked this against a few cylinders that are for certain barrels and it works out very well indeed
(it is that simple to me I dunno why peeps bother with old π r ² x cylinder/barrel length)
plus some programs for calculating ratios are not easy to understand or don't seem to work out right to me
(bit where you enter or measure cylinder length or port is a little unclear to me)
plus people saying oh yeah a 3/4 cylinder is for 363 to 410 - wtf ?
3/4 is not exactly very pinpoint accurate and range of nearly 2 inches is also a little wide too ffs
I think it is nigh on there with the 12mm figure subtraction is about correct - but the cylinder should have AOE done
(Should really do AOE anyway is the general feeling)
This adds aprox 4-5mm to say 6mm on cylinder head inside the cylinder itself - never mind go with 12mm for now ffs
(O-ring sits aprox 2mm back from piston and is what creates the seal really so just go for 12mm - trust me)
anyway here are the pics that should be speak for themselves

give us any feedback if you can though chaps.....




&



cheers for any feedback even if I am talking out of my ar$e one more

Just thought if anybody was putting together a gearbox these could come in handy
to suss out what gear ratio you putting in there (in case you forgot or lost the packet they came in)
and also if you got a cylinder knocking about but unsure what barrel it is supposed to be used with etc....

Yes they ain't 101% accurate but imho these 2 quick tests are bloomin' close without all the maths
 
EDIT - make that figure aprox 15mm NOT 12mm - my very bad
12mm is piston but aprox 3mm further back from piston is center of O-ring which in effect is where the compression is created
or rather not created until it passes the end of port - therefore it is the O-ring's start & finish or travel is what we are trying to work out
 
So measure front of cylinder to port and subtract 15mm not 12mm - then multiply by 10 = ideal barrel range chaps
 
EDIT - 2018, after reviewing my crap I revised this to 15mm for 0.20's and say 20mm subtraction for say heavier 0.30's

Ollie has posted an update video guys..
 
 

Without hop a BB will hit the ground after half a second unless you lob it.
 
Velocity is lost fastest at higher values.
 
1.14J on a .2 falls to the ground after 100ft, with hop 165ft.
A .3 will travel another 10ft hopped.
 
The main advantage for hop and BB mass is the longer time with a small drop, a .2 dropping a foot after 60ft unhopped and nearly 135ft hopped.
A .3 will get another 10ft.
Also a heavier BB arrives at its target sooner past 60ft.
 

It do be true though.
 

We need "bigclivedotcom" to give us a breakdown on that board 😃 (they've really pack in those surface mount resistors 😬 )

Type 89 nozzle is done and with a few internal tweaks and some finer print settings its now giving me the same fps and consistency as the tm original piece. Going to be running it this weekend and just dumping mags through it every now and again to see how long it lasts. 

CQBR? Good choice. CQBRs don't have to be tacticool modern either  
 
Also, adding a carry handle is a LOT easier. Changing outer barrels on the MWS is a faff
 

Don’t know if it’s entirely useful information, but I run a Warhead Standard Black on a base set of gears and a 9.9v LiFe and it’s pretty bloody snappy and very efficient on battery life.
 
For me, before everything a Warhead Motor is now the first upgrade before anything else

Ultrair green is my go to
Its got zero silicon content, so won’t jigger your hop rubber 
Never had a hassle with mag maintenance yet

I've barely ever heard anyone in a video pronounce Salomon correctly.
 
The one that really gets me (and this has been going on for at least 10 years) is the blatant global lie that is the use of the word polymer to somehow mean something different to plastic.  'Oh this is polymer, not just plastic'... get fucked.

Because all airsoft youtubers are total wankpuffins who should have been strangled at birth .

The valve is at a wee angle. It has to be to fit the curve of the mag

You guys know he's probably reading this, right? And, narcissist that he is, loving the attention.