Encore

Making this thread to highlight some of the things people here at AFUK might be interested in and to introduce people to 4UAD (not affiliated in any way just a fan). NorthEast GBB Famas - 1:12 - I know there is a decent number of FAMAS enjoyers here and figured you guys might like to know about this one. WW1 replicas - 7:37 - Several high quality looking WW1 replicas for all you trench foot enjoyers and renacters. Whole video here I'm a big fan of this channel. Came across them when they had barely more than 100 subs. Their reviews are entertaining, have good production quality and most importantly they have a systematic review methodology. No, I think this shoots well BS, but actual empirical testing in controlled conditions (indoor shooting at set ranges and as many variables as possible controlled for). Seriously, check out their GBB mag performance testing video, they made a temperature chamber to keep the entire GBB at testing temperatures. I think many of us here would enjoy their content! (Mods - Feel free to move/remove this thread if it not entirely appropriate for this section or I'm shilling to much)

I can se how puttig a low ball price might make people suspicious but I don't think putting in such a huge price helps either. Putting in a sensible price would probably help you find sellers who are in your price range. Nothing against the ad poster, just found it funny when I saw the ad

Says looking for but is a sale ad, look at that price for an MP9! You're having a bubble 🤣 (Obviously not a real sale ad but still the price does qualify it for Mack's)

I've left a question, asking for expiry dates on the tanks since there is no clear image or information in the advert itself. We request the jury hold judgement on this until such time has passed that seller may have reasonably expected to have answered the question. However, the prosecution would like to draw attention to the price. £80 for 2 tanks, which can be assumed to mean £40 per tank. BZTactical have tanks of the same capacity, in stock, for £39.95. The prosecution submits that this pricing for this item is sufficiently high to meet the high bar for "Mack's airsoft dreamers of the week thread" charge. The prosecution rests its case and awaits the public jury's verdict.

Why is nobody (paper included) mentioning the kid who actually shot the bb gun at other pupils? What was his punishment? Yes, this kid was stupid for a multitude of reasons, 1) having the gun on him in a public place that is not an airsoft site/somewhere it would be reasonable to be carrying a bb gun and 2) for giving it to someone else to use. The kid who actually shot other pupils should also be excluded, ignorance is not a defence for doing something stupid.

Not in my experience. Mine has fed any M4 mag given to it thus far

Long time hpa user, owned a MTW for a little over a year now. There isn't a rif on the market right now that will perform as well as a MTW out the box. End of story. The amount of money you'd have to spend to get a good rif to perform as well as a MTW is would let you let you have enough change after buying a MTW and line and tank to get some nice accessories like a vortex red dot etc. I've have a polarstar fusion engine (was my first hpa rig) that I spent time and money to get setup up and shooting true as possible. The out the box MTW has 90% of the performance. That last 10% would only matter if all you cared about in Airsoft was absolute performance. The only reason I own AEG's is incase I go to a site that doesn't offer hpa refills. If you drive then you can buy a scuba tank and refill yourself. I don't currently and lugging a scuba tank on public transport would be a pain and get odd looks

My mask as arrived. I got the sierra variant. My thoughts so far, only having tried it on in the house. Its well made, no loose threads on mine and all the stitching is immaculate. The mouth guard is well sized and covers all the vital bits. The only criticism I have and it is a minor one, is that I wish they put a bit a curved profile into the sierra mask along the horizontal plane (red line, see image) of the mask. I've attempted to illustrate what I mean in the image below. In that mast you can see there is a curve to the mask which lets the mesh sit closer to the nose along the top. With the sierra mask as it is, what you get is the the mesh being straight up (orange line). Its not as bad as in the image I've shown but it still protrudes outwards a bit. This leaves a bit of room on the sides where a bb could hit your hose, even with the mask bent into shape. Its not a large gap and you'd be fairly unlucky if a bb managed find that spot but its definitely possible. Not a major issue as your nostrils are well covered so it'd be a case of a strike to the fleshy part of your nose, it'll sting but nothing more I suspect. It would also add to the comfort a bit, as if you try to shape the mask to cover the nose the mesh will start to touch and rub against the tip of your nose. Because the mesh is attached to the fabric, adding in a curve after will strain the fabric which just makes adding in the curve yourself that bit harder. In addition to the added safety and comfort, it'd just look more gucci to have the mesh sit more flush to your face around the top of the nose when worn. Overall, I'd give the mask a solid 8/10. It well made, comfortable and provides good protection. With the above changes it'd be 10/10.

Just ordered the Multicam V1 mask. Will report back when it arrives with that I think. I've been meaning to buy face pro like this for awhile now but was always wondered about the lack of nose protection on most other similar designs.

Everyone goes through this regardless of hobby I believe. I find with this kind of feeling, there are two categories: 1) Temporary and 2) Permanent. Temporary This is the most common, in my opinion. Eventually you just feel tired, bored, burned out, etc and that all leads to a lack of motivation to take part in a hobby you once really enjoyed. Regardless of the cause, it usually best to take a step back and see if a break is all you need, no matter how long. Whether you sell your gear or hang on to it in the mean time is a personal choice. What usually ends in regret is selling your gear because you want the cash for something else that isn't necessary. Duration of this phase can vary wildly - just take it a day at a time would be my advice here. Permanent This category is one you'll only know you're in with hindsight, either you're taking that break an realize you have zero desire to ever try the hobby again or you've sold up and something makes you remember the former hobby and you know you're never going back in that moment. I'm made this realisation with gaming a few years back. I used to be an avid gamer, could spend all day every day playing. Especially competitive games but I just don't care for it anymore. At least not in the way I once did, now I play single player RPG games, not for the game but for the stories. Which considering the state of gaming is far and few between these days. I know I'm trending towards no longer gaming at all but I'm comfortable in the knowledge that I just find different things take my interest now. Its not something external to the hobby bringing me down like depression or stress. Usually when its an outside factor, you need to resolve that issue before you start throwing stuff out because once it passes you'll just regret your clouded decision. Either way, there's nothing wrong with feeling like this unless it some outside factor causing it. Time changes everything and everyone, and your interest and hobbies are no different. Take a step back and see if you just need to let it sit until the spark comes back or if something external is smothering that spark that needs addressing. Most importantly, remember that your friends won't change because of this. Even if what initially started the friendship was a common hobby like airsoft. Those mates will still be down for going to the pub or whatever alternative works for you to socialise and hangout. Those who do disappear were never your friend to begin with but a hobby based colleague. You'd chat around the table in the safe area and rush objectives together like work colleagues on a break or working on a project together but once you move to a new job, you don't talk to them anymore.

Vector = £460 Mags - £90 Total £550 All from extreme airsoft. At 70% you're looking a £385 second hand and that's not taking into account the two tone nature. £420 wanted for a two tone vector (AEG) with 3 extra mags and the most egregious thing? Use of comic sans font family for the typeset. Can't help but wonder if the price was chosen simply not by logic but for the '420 blaze it' meme, font choice supports my case, and the final bit of evidence? The two tone colour is clearly marijuana green. The prosecution rests it case.

What you need to do, my friend, is use a mail forwarding service. Pack up something you own, post it out to a forwarding service with the final delivery address set as your own. Boom, all the thrill of a delivery without adding new stuff to the collect. Cheaper than a new rif too!

But they're not (a bit blunt, but not trying to be rude) both those two items, you say you have tested fitted so by definition they can not be brand new. You can say they're used but like new or open box but definitely not brand new. The general consensus on this forum tends to be unless its from a retailer, you don't class something as new even if unopened. Part of paying full retail price is the customer support and warranty they are legally obligated to provide. Something you as a private non commercial seller don't have to do. Again, not to familiar with the real steal market but I think the same rules still largely apply. Someone chime in if have more experience/info to offer.

£22.55 from Brownell's (in OD green or black and brown) and a further £5.99 for delivery £28.54 total brand new (70% of retail would be £19.99) Strike 1 £31.90 again brownell's, £5.99 delivery. £37.89 total brand new (70% retail would be £26.52) Strike 2 £67.65 Brownell's, 5.99 delivery. Total £73.64 brand new (70% retail would make this £51.55) Strike 3, you're out! I get that it's real steal stuff but even at 80% of retail value those items seems a bit over priced to me. Those prices are so close to retail that I'd buy new just to the new item smell and the unboxing/opening experience of a new item. Maybe I'm being unreasonable here?

Poor guy, gotta feel for the guy if he got ripped off but still doesn't excuse trying to rip off the next guy.

Happy to share any knowledge I can! My first game with them will be on the 22nd so I'll let you know after then. Hamster's post once again does a perfect job explaining bb weight vs fps. Heavier bb's generally tend to be better if you can hop it and they're still moving quick enough to hit some faster than they can dodge it. The only exception being if you're at a matrix themed event where everyone wants to dodge bullets like neo 😂. Nope, just took the system that game with the G&G originally and fitted it to the fusion engine. Works a charm. Only thing that required work was filling down the G&G selector plate along its edges to fit inside the channels for the selection plate on the fusion engine.

Bit late to the thread but my primary is a fusion engine'd G&G PDW15. I'll give my two cents on the body itself (PDW15) and the fusion engine, though Hamster's guide gives you all the info you'd need. I've added some more detailed info about alignment because I feel this is an often overlooked aspect of tuning HPA guns. Donor Body: G&G PDW15 AR Compatibility: The fusion engine dropped right in and sits perfectly in the body. I was expecting to have to do some work for have the engine sit and also line up with the hop unit properly but was pleasantly surprised when it was perfectly inline and level with the upper and hop unit. This is something you want to keep in mind with all HPA systems but can be a particular challenge with the fusion engine because unlike other drop in units that fit into the gearbox that comes with the gun (and hopefully lines up correctly with the hop unit) the fusion engine is a complete replacement of the gearbox. I've illustrated the issue below. This can be a oft overlooked part of getting any HPA setup tuned correctly. If you shine a light down the barrel, you want to see your nozzle sat directly in the centre with an even spacing around it to the barrel inner wall. Off centre will give you consistency issues and potential feeding issues. Off angle will give you feeding issues, limit rate of fire and wear your nozzle and barrel where they rub. Both issues can be corrected with correct shimming but it does take some work and effort to get perfect. You can also get clips that clip your hop unit to the front of the engine to ensure they line up, its just a matter of finding what works for you. Features: My body is fully ambidextrous with selector switches on both sides and mag release buttons on both sides. I really like this because it lets me switch hands and shoulders and still retain full functionality. I can reload left handed or right if I go dry, can switch to safe or full auto etc. This depends on your shooting style buts getting comfortable with firing from either shoulder/hand is something I highly recommend learning. Its a huge advantage when you come up against cover that would otherwise force you to expose more of yourself to shoot past. Build quality: My gun is CNC machined, though I'm not sure of the alloy used. However, whatever alloy they have used is solid. My gun has no wobble or flex at all and has taken the heavy use it see's well. Admittedly, I don't go punishing my gun and throwing it around but I'm not afraid to crawl with it; butt it up against cover to get steadier aim etc. The biggest thing for me, however, is there is zero and I mean zero wobble/flex between the upper and lower. Most AEG's because of the design rely on the front pin and the top/cylinder portion of the gearbox sitting inside the upper to keep it snug against the lower, there just no room for tabs at the rear of the upper to interface with the rear locking pin. Most gearboxes are cast and designed to work in a wide product family, so they don't have a snug enough fit in the upper to prevent wobble/flex. G&G got around this issue by creating a extended shelf that sits up against the buffer tube portion of the lower receiver (see image below). This extension ensures that the upper is properly held down against the lower. Again, this helps keep the alignment between the hop unit and nozzle/engine consistent while I run and gun. Fusion Engine My fusion engine is setup with the standard poppet valve and a green nozzle (primarily used for CSB at my local site). I get around 280(+/- 2-3) fps using 0.3g (1.09J). I was using Geoff's 0.3g bb's and it would shoot like lasers. I found 0.3g to be a nice compromise between weight and cost for CQB. Now I'll be the first to admit that 0.3g is a overkill for CQB but having my hop set to 0.3 meant I could go to a outdoor sight and be ready to roll without any fucking about with my hop or where my sights where zero'd at. It also meant that even if the guy I was shooting was wearing a think hoodie/PMC jacket with plater carrier, they'd feel my shots hit them even at the longest ranges I would be engaging at my local site (RIP The Stan). I'll be changing my setup to a red poppet and amped purple nozzle for increased shot efficiency and a higher FPS (aiming for around 310fps with 0.28g, 1.24J ) since I only have outdoor sights available to me now. I'm also switching to Valkyrie BB's on a trail basis since I've heard good things and a few friends who've tried them say they get better consistency with them. I'm going with 0.28g because they don't do 0.3's and their 0.32g are a bit too expensive for me right now. Regulator: Wolverine Storm - 40 - 140 PSI range. Nothing to say other than works perfectly with my fusion engine. If you've got any specific questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer but from what I've read so far you're on track for a good polarstar setup. The fusion engine was designed around VFC M4 bodies when it was being designed so should be as close to, if not, just drop in and go as you can get for a fusion engine though the Avalon is a newer model but I doubt much has changed in terms of internal dimensions. Finally, thank you for give me an opportunity to talk and gush about my hpa setup! 😁 I don't get to do it often but I really do love to do it when I can (I suspect we all just want someone to listen to us talk about airsoft endless, its why we're all on this forum after all!)

My local would ask what weight you were firing, chrono you and then check on a conversion chart to make sure you were okay (saved the time of having to set the weight for every player and have the chrono show joules instead). Perhaps they did something similar. As opposed to NAE where they chrono on 0.2g and don't give a shit what you'll be firing. Case and point, my P* will fire 0.2g at 280 fps (0.73J) well below the 370 (1.3J) legal limit. However, simply changing to firing 0.3s and keep everything else the same (80psi on the reg) I'm how firing 300fps (1.25J). Close enough to the limit for my liking, what does the Marshall tell me? Go on mate, turn you reg up you've got plenty of fps to spare. This is after I tell him I'll be firing 0.3s. 🤯

Prison's are designed to be able to be secure with a few guards as possible, they intentionally employ choke points, funnelling designs and are essentially inverse castles (designed to keep people in versus keep people out). I just don't think this is a good site for a large number of people. I think for prisons you need to design the event around the site. It needs to be asymmetric in terms of teams a few people as the guards who can lock down buildings etc and the rest as inmates trying to escape. That or you need to have far fewer players so they can't just lock everything down. My vote with 400 players on site is clusterfuck.

Because most people when selling have a price in mind for what they want to get into their pocket once its all said and done. If want £150 in my pocket and its reasonable to ask that for what I'm selling then why can't I just ask for £170 all in? Paypal will charge me 4.79 for a sale of £150, so I add on 4.79 to my sale price then add delivery (lets says £15.21 for this example) so I ask for £170 and I get the £150 I wanted in my pocket at the end. Also that logic only applies to payment methods where there is a fee. Sellers could just as easily say pay me with a bank transfer or as family and friends on paypal where there is no fee to the seller. People accept paypal because it makes things convenient and gives buyers the extra security of paypal buyer protections which heavily favour the buyer. Personally I don't mind having the fee included in the total cost of what I'm about to buy second hand. If I buy something for X price all in, then I'm either happy to pay that price and I buy it or I'm not and I don't. Like Adolf Hamster said, if I'm dropping more than a few pints at the local in terms of cash on something, a few pennies to pounds more doesn't bother me at that point.