emilianoksa

I thought oil based lubricants were not recommended for airsoft guns.
 
Or is that another myth?

Thank you for kindly responding.

Nice.
 
Is that a replacement plate only, or a completely new slide?

Oh dear.
 
My commiserations.
 
I can't think of any good reason why they should be allowed to get away with what they did to your gun. What gives the government the right to damage your property without apologising or paying compensation?
 
What a crappy country we have become. 
 
Thanks for letting me know. I won't hold my breath.

Oh dear.
 
My commiserations.
 
I can't think of any good reason why they should be allowed to get away with what they did to your gun. What gives the government the right to damage your property without apologising or paying compensation?
 
What a crappy country we have become. 
 
Thanks for letting me know. I won't hold my breath.

I have nothing against tilting barrels per se.
 
I just don't like steel tilting barrels under aluminium slides.

Pay a little more and get a WE Glock.
 
They are generally well regarded. 

Pay a little more and get a WE Glock.
 
They are generally well regarded. 

Thanks for the reply.
 
What you say makes sense.
 
And thanks to you too, Lozart.
 
 

If I wanted to give an airsoft pistol to one of my children - all of whom are middle aged adults by the way - none of whom have ever skirmished, would this be completely legal?
 
I emphasise this would be a gift and not a sale.
 
In the unlikely event that the gun eventually ended up in the hands of somebody unkown to me, who used it irresponsibly eg. showed it in public, would I as the original owner be liable?

Silicone oil for O rings and plastic on plastic or plastic on metal slides and frames.
 
Teflon grease or oil for metal on metal.
 
I use Superlube Synthetic with PTFE to grease slide and rails. If it migrates it will not damage or weaken plastic parts. 
 
Dry cloth or cotton buds for muck, but when the gun gets very dirty you can use Isopropyl 99% alcohol, which shifts grease and crud effectively and evaporates completely leaving no residue or smell. Isopropyl alcohol is also the go to for inner barrels. It's the only thing you should put down an inner barrel, apart from a dry piece of cloth or tissue to pull out the dirt. 

Silicone oil for O rings and plastic on plastic or plastic on metal slides and frames.
 
Teflon grease or oil for metal on metal.
 
I use Superlube Synthetic with PTFE to grease slide and rails. If it migrates it will not damage or weaken plastic parts. 
 
Dry cloth or cotton buds for muck, but when the gun gets very dirty you can use Isopropyl 99% alcohol, which shifts grease and crud effectively and evaporates completely leaving no residue or smell. Isopropyl alcohol is also the go to for inner barrels. It's the only thing you should put down an inner barrel, apart from a dry piece of cloth or tissue to pull out the dirt. 

Very stylish. Is that the Proforce one licensed by Sig. 

Tokyo Marui.

I have watched plenty of video reviews of TM plastic pistols over the years.
 
Retailers generally advise the use of 144a gas with them.
 
However quite a few reviewers say things like: I use Abbey Predator Ultra gas instead of green gas in my TM pistols. I have heard it said that the Ultra is not as powerful as green gas, yet I always thought Ultra was green gas - maybe not quite as powerful as something like Nuprol 2.0 but green gas nonetheless.
 
I have also heard that Nuprol 1.0 works better with TM pistols than 144a. And is a bit more powerful. 
 
I know most owners go ahead and use Nuprol 2.0 in their TM pistols, but it wasn't my intention to get into a discussion about that.
 
It is just frustrating that manufacturers don't put the psi of their gas on the cans. It would be a more reliable indicator of power than word of mouth. 
 
What makes one gas more powerful than another? I thought propane was the base ingredient in all airsoft gas. 

I suppose you are right.
 
Thanks for the reply.

Try the Swiss Arms universal holster, widely available in different colours and with either level 1 or level 2 safety.

Thanks for that.🙂

Thanks for the reply.
 
For me, TM pistols are best left alone. I am not interested in sourcing metal slides for them. They were designed for optimal performance with plastic slides and low powered gas, and as such, they work better than most metal pistols will ever do.
 
Yes, metal slides feel more realistic, but Marui at least manage to produce plastic slides that look very good. I would rather have Japanese quality over Chinese realism.

Just an update for anyone who is interested or runs into the same problem I had.
 
The Spring under the front chassis just needed stretching a bit, as Rocketdogbert suggested.
 
As for the magazine issue, the TM Glock mags have a slightly thicker baseplate than the WE ones - only a couple of millimetres different but enough to make a difference on a Guarder frame. If I replace a TM baseplate on the TM mag with a WE baseplate , it works fine.
 
Of course an alternative would be to sand down the TM baseplate, but the WE ones are cheap enough to pick up.

Thanks.
 
They look very nice.
 
I think you are right. At least with Prime and Nova, you are getting peace of mind.

Thanks.
 
It is true that somebody could send me a photo of him skirmishing with a rif, but if I had never met him and didn't know what he looked like,  how would I know it was him?
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the replies.
 
Yes, come to think of it, he has already given me the information: his name, postcode and UKARA number. I haven't requested personal information - merely asked for verification of it.
 
I think I will withdraw it from sale. I am not so desperate for the money.
 
Thanks again.

I went for the Glock 22 Gen 3 in the end because I want to put a Guarder Gen2 frame on it, and this will not fit the Gen 4s.
 
I was very pleasantly surprised. People say Marui Glocks are very light, but I found it more weighty than I expected. When I removed the slide I was impressed by the standard of parts and quality of the fitting. It looked clean compared to my WE Glocks. And although it didn't have the same recoil, I was  perfectly happy with the recoil it did produce and the speed of the slide reset.  The Gen 4 must really be something special if it is an improvement on this. I dispensed with the extended mag base , put on the normal mag base and just enjoyed shooting it in my garden. 
 
Of course the slide is plastic, but it somehow manages to look better than the WE metal slide. In any case I intend to run it on 144a gas and for shooting at home exclusively.  
 
This got me thinking again about TM pistols generally. I have always fancied the Beretta PX4, but have heard that the slide stop breaks and the decocker fails after a while. I never use the slide stop as a slide release on any gun, and I avoid using a decocking lever. Whether doing this will minimize the potential damage to the slide stop I don't know. It does look a bit fragile. But I am more worried about the fact that "it will take play over time" (whatever that means - I assume it means the slide to frame fit will loosen).
 
I have also heard that the TM XDM40 suffers from the inner slide reinforcement breaking near the slide stop resulting in the slide stop being gradually eaten.
 
Are these design faults, or the result of people not following Marui's advice and and running their pistols on green gas? I know many run them on green gas without problems, but there is always a risk.
 
Has anyone on here who uses a PX4 solely on 144a run into any serious problems over time? 

The original one with the thicker grip.
 
Why is it so much heavier ( by 60-70 grams) than the later E2 version?
 
It can't be just because of the larger grip, can it? How would that alone account for another 70 grams. Maybe it is something to do with the old style magazine with the thicker metal base plate. But the 226 R now comes with the E2 magazine and it is still advertised as substantially heavier than the E2 pistol.
 
Is it more plasticky looking than the E2, or about the same?