Iceni

Glad it's all working out Have fun with it

Hop fitted. High torque motor fitted. Sound deadening fitted. It's EVIL...😂
Thank you for your guidance. I've printed it out and ingested every word.👍

Aug's are defiantly one of the oddities of the airsoft world.

Unlike other platforms like the m4 where the gearbox is locked in place and you reference everything to the gearbox, Augs have no reference or fixed points internally. It's more of a relationship.

The only real fixed point is the back of the spacer on the back of the hop. It's that engagement that sets everything else up and it took me a while to work it all out.

The hop position in the upper, Irrelevant. It just needs to move freely.
Magwell plate, irrelevant. It'll self position to the mag, and line up to the hop automatically.
Gearbox position, irrelevant. The hop will set the distance and put load onto the gearbox plate, I actually killed a magwell plate when I first got an AUG thinking shimming a gearbox would be a good idea, it's not. Let the hop spring do all that work.
Even the tappet plate/airnozzle are largely irrelevant. You need just enough space to feed well, but if it's pushing too hard on the hop the tappet spring is weak enough that it seats correctly anyway. And doesn't push the gearbox off the hop.

It's a weird gun to understand. But also very simple and very clever when you do understand it. It's by far my favourite internal design. You can set everything on the gearbox external to the body, even motor height. And the rest just works if you let it work. Most Augs i've looked at second hand that have issues all relate to the hop not moving correctly, and people going round in circles trying to fix a problem they created.

Just been digging around in there and found the hop rubber lips were just a smidge too long. Trimmed the bottom where the feed is by a smidge and boom. Every shot. The odd double feed but hey, it's a start! 😂

Awesome.
I'd heard that TM gears were a bit soft.
It looks like there's an aftermarket hop rubber in there already (creamy yellow colour-possibly a maple leaf) so I'll clean it up and see if it's worthy. Failing that I'll go for your suggestions. The hop doesn't have much spring in it so I wonder if the issue is the barrel not floating.
MOSFET is on the list of things to do, but a way off yet.😂
Thanks again. You are a star ⭐⭐
 

Sort the hop unit before you strip the gearbox. Chances are it'll want a hop rubber as well. I tend to stick with mounded types, and either g&g green, or prommy purples. I've never used a maple leaf in an aug.

Air nozzles on the gearbox are an absolute pain in the ass. The ASG ultimate/Lonex one is the one I tend to go for if you need a new one. Avoid pretty much everything else especially the metal ones they tend to be the wrong length even if branded for the AUG. I think a lot are G36 nozzles and the AUG one has a slightly different spec.

The rest of the gearbox is bullet proof. AK front contacts, and a easy to service rear contact for auto. Mostfet install can be done with the gearbox closed. They benefit from silent piston/cylinder heads as it makes them quieter to shoot (slightly). Motors are on a cage, TM gears are cheese so if you upgrade the FPS past 300 just be aware the gears are not going to last.

There is also a plastic spacer that sits on the back of the hop. This needs to be on. Without it the hop won't sit in the correct place. As the hop/Gearbox alignment is done on that hop spring pushing the spacer onto the gearbox, So the hop/Gearbox is always touching. When you assemble the upper to the lower, if you are gentle you should be able to slightly feel the hop spring moving and pushing the upper off the gearbox in the last 3-5mm of body lockup.

All of the plastic hops i've used in augs have been good. CNC ones however are not as friendly. You have to spend a little more time with them to get them right, and that time doesn't translate into the hop working any better than the basic plastic ones. I have never played with the lonex/ASG ultimate metal units, so they may or may not be good.

If you put new screws in to retain the hop unit then just make sure the hop has full spring movement forwards and backwards. It's the tension of that spring that helps lock the body take-down pin by putting a little side load on the pin. It also removes some of the upper/lower wobble. And in addition to that if you set it so the barrel is locked then you will have feeding issues, it also means you can't shim an aug barrel to the outer barrel (augs actually have 3 barrels inner, outer, and a thin aluminium sleeve) The inner needs to move freely, and provided the barrel and hop are springy then you should be golden. Some after market inner barrels can be too thick for the AUG and cause this problem, So it's a critical part of the build to make sure the hop is free.

Also watch out for the brass spacer ring that sits in the front part of the hop. They can interfere with the screws and reduce the spring travel distance. Personally I cut the hop rubber down and put the ring inside of the C-clip area, Leaving everything forward of the c-clip open.



£6 for a plastic replacement.
https://www.gearofwar.co.uk/product/jg-aug-hop-unit/


 

Maybe so but I'd rather not risk going full negative airsoft on a new motor 😁

usually you'd just swap 2 of the wires on the motor to reverse a brushless motor, Fairly common in RC cars. I can't see the warhead been any different.

We could take our birthday presents in to show off in assembly, I remember one of my friends taking in his new 410. It was still primary school so he was no older than 11. I do remember there wasn't a great deal of fuss about it. His dad brought it in with him, and the gun spent the day with the headmaster. Most of us had air rifles and had shot 410 so we were more interested in where he was planning to shoot that what he was shooting. And I'm not ancient, this was 1980's pre Dumblaine in a rural school.

We could take our birthday presents in to show off in assembly, I remember one of my friends taking in his new 410. It was still primary school so he was no older than 11. I do remember there wasn't a great deal of fuss about it. His dad brought it in with him, and the gun spent the day with the headmaster. Most of us had air rifles and had shot 410 so we were more interested in where he was planning to shoot that what he was shooting. And I'm not ancient, this was 1980's pre Dumblaine in a rural school.

We could take our birthday presents in to show off in assembly, I remember one of my friends taking in his new 410. It was still primary school so he was no older than 11. I do remember there wasn't a great deal of fuss about it. His dad brought it in with him, and the gun spent the day with the headmaster. Most of us had air rifles and had shot 410 so we were more interested in where he was planning to shoot that what he was shooting. And I'm not ancient, this was 1980's pre Dumblaine in a rural school.

It's not the springs. It's the mag inner sitting too far out of the feed tube allowing the bb retention nub to close. If you pull on the front bottom of the mag they will feed again as this pushes the nub back open. You need to shim your mag inners higher at the rear, and securely peg them in place.

I had to do the same thing with my LCT midcaps. And the review I wrote also mentions this and has the shimming solution. If that solution doesn't make sense just PM me, I had another guy asking about it a few months ago in PM's and I did him a more detailed explanation of the modification.

You need to inspect you mags first before you take them to bits.

The part I refer to as rollovers (blue) are the sides of the metal part of the mag where the mag comes up and over the feed nozzle. The goal is to get the top of the feed tube (purple) to be in line with the rollovers - as show by the magazine top line (red). See image.

In order to get the feed nozzle to be inline with those rollovers you are going to have to make a few modifications to both parts of the mag.

The plastic internal bit needs a chamfer (Angled edge) filing onto the leading edge of the magazine (orange second image).

The metal tang (green) needs bending out a little to allow the plastic parts to sit higher.

Once you have the feed nozzle in line with the magazine top line doing these actions you will then need to shim the plastic parts into place.

I made pegs/wedges. All they are is plastic that has been shaped to hold the plastic part of the magazine tight to the magazine top line. Those wedges are long enough that the magazine base plate holds them in and up. Stopping the feed tube falling away from the hop unit in the gun.

 

It's not the springs. It's the mag inner sitting too far out of the feed tube allowing the bb retention nub to close. If you pull on the front bottom of the mag they will feed again as this pushes the nub back open. You need to shim your mag inners higher at the rear, and securely peg them in place.

I had to do the same thing with my LCT midcaps. And the review I wrote also mentions this and has the shimming solution. If that solution doesn't make sense just PM me, I had another guy asking about it a few months ago in PM's and I did him a more detailed explanation of the modification.

You need to inspect you mags first before you take them to bits.

The part I refer to as rollovers (blue) are the sides of the metal part of the mag where the mag comes up and over the feed nozzle. The goal is to get the top of the feed tube (purple) to be in line with the rollovers - as show by the magazine top line (red). See image.

In order to get the feed nozzle to be inline with those rollovers you are going to have to make a few modifications to both parts of the mag.

The plastic internal bit needs a chamfer (Angled edge) filing onto the leading edge of the magazine (orange second image).

The metal tang (green) needs bending out a little to allow the plastic parts to sit higher.

Once you have the feed nozzle in line with the magazine top line doing these actions you will then need to shim the plastic parts into place.

I made pegs/wedges. All they are is plastic that has been shaped to hold the plastic part of the magazine tight to the magazine top line. Those wedges are long enough that the magazine base plate holds them in and up. Stopping the feed tube falling away from the hop unit in the gun.

 

It's not the springs. It's the mag inner sitting too far out of the feed tube allowing the bb retention nub to close. If you pull on the front bottom of the mag they will feed again as this pushes the nub back open. You need to shim your mag inners higher at the rear, and securely peg them in place.

I had to do the same thing with my LCT midcaps. And the review I wrote also mentions this and has the shimming solution. If that solution doesn't make sense just PM me, I had another guy asking about it a few months ago in PM's and I did him a more detailed explanation of the modification.

You need to inspect you mags first before you take them to bits.

The part I refer to as rollovers (blue) are the sides of the metal part of the mag where the mag comes up and over the feed nozzle. The goal is to get the top of the feed tube (purple) to be in line with the rollovers - as show by the magazine top line (red). See image.

In order to get the feed nozzle to be inline with those rollovers you are going to have to make a few modifications to both parts of the mag.

The plastic internal bit needs a chamfer (Angled edge) filing onto the leading edge of the magazine (orange second image).

The metal tang (green) needs bending out a little to allow the plastic parts to sit higher.

Once you have the feed nozzle in line with the magazine top line doing these actions you will then need to shim the plastic parts into place.

I made pegs/wedges. All they are is plastic that has been shaped to hold the plastic part of the magazine tight to the magazine top line. Those wedges are long enough that the magazine base plate holds them in and up. Stopping the feed tube falling away from the hop unit in the gun.

 

the measurements came from this guy https://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/218851-raptor-mp-443-pya-grach/  and curious if i can replicate his results
 

https://extremeairsoft.co.uk/shop/assault-rifles/electric-aeg-rifles/ak47/el-elaks74un-a-tactical-mod-a-aeg-platinum/
 

Gave it a go - turns out that GTAC are the same company as Gunfire, and as such, won't fulfil any order below £135. Looks like we're back to square one...

https://gtac.pl/product-eng-1152215800-Plate-Carrier-Tactical-Vest-WZ-93-Woodland-Panther.html

Oh one last thing, Expect the Zip to fail very quickly. I think mine lasted about a week. Still just as warm buttoned but they can end up looking tatty if the zip is half hanging off!

Oh one last thing, Expect the Zip to fail very quickly. I think mine lasted about a week. Still just as warm buttoned but they can end up looking tatty if the zip is half hanging off!

Had one of those for a few years, probably the warmest jacket you can buy for that cheap.

Leave the fur collar on, You can button up all the way to the neck and trust me when I say you will cook.
 

Had one of those for a few years, probably the warmest jacket you can buy for that cheap.

Leave the fur collar on, You can button up all the way to the neck and trust me when I say you will cook.
 

Flux, flux  and more flux!

Colophony is dirt cheap for a tin, like £2 a tin on ebay. It makes any soldering job 100% easier. It's a glass like resin, If you want a liquid type dissolve a chunk in some isopropanol. If you use it in solid for you melt it with the iron then let it flow off the iron onto the bits you want to solder.

You get faster heat transfer, and the solder just wets out instantly. Seriously if you hate soldering it'll make your life so much easier.

You don't need to clean afterwards, but if you want things perfect just a little isopropanol will remove any leftovers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40g-for-the-price-20g-tin-Solid-soldering-flux-COLOPHONY-KALAFONIA/121041198430?epid=1123157031&hash=item1c2e9e1d5e%3Ag%3Ac-UAAOxysE5SbCg8&LH_BIN=1

When I was modding consoles way back
I used a fibreglass pen to clean the area I was soldering to
(to clean up any mask/coating & key copper pads/resistors)
 

 
That way the thin Kynar 30awg wrapping wire for mod, soldered asap
without too much heat or fuss (pulling off a track/smd resistor)
 
mind you my first attempts did not go well using poundland stuff
& cheapo ebay 50w MIG welder iron etc...
 
I bought a decent comprehensive soldering kit with bits n bobs
(de-solder pump, tweezers, spare tips, stand and solder with a bit of FLUX)
Fuck me, what a difference it made for about £15 (bought two in fact)
 
bit of flux, wipe off excess to avoid yellowy solder, and tttsssszzz - perfect
 
yes you can get by without flux & use this or that - but it can help/assist
as i said - a lot of easy success is having the right decent stuff to begin with
than perhaps struggle making do at a push - I don't need that...
 
You don't "have to" key/clean the area or "don't have to" to use flux
just saying what I usually do, but to each their own if it works
But a vice or other pair of hands really helps too