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Given the price of parts individually vs in a whole gun I'd consider saving up enough to eventually buy a whole TM pistol; that's not even factoring in the propensity for various different brand bits to often not get along vs the high reliability probability of a simple factory build.

Qft, you want the motor to top out not the battery.

There is, but yeah it's not overly exaggerated as one may think. I still wouldn't use the 2700mAh battery though, if I'm not mistaken the motor you have (standard 14tpa ferrite) draws way more than 27 amps (talking 45 at least) and it will kill the battery quickly. It's always better to have an oversized battery than the other way around.

I haven't read anything in this thread.. I was purely looking to see if someone had meme'd it. They have, I now no longer need too. I can sleep ok tonight GG @Cr0-Magnon

Mesh goggles perhaps?

10+ years running a High-Torque/7.4v setup across most of my guns. Never had any issues with 'additional stresses' or such like on my simple sub-350fps guns. Never stripped a single gear, piston or damaged a bushing doing it. Never had any noteworthy FPS losses either. So, for me, it is a solution. A simple one at that. It's just that you don't like it. Pedantry here: Main springs are always compressed in an AEG gearbox, even with the piston fully-forward. 😘

Buying an TM M4A1 from Rebel Troop, thought it was the best thibg ever 😆

The Gate mosfets (Titan and Aster) use photocells to pick up the teeth on the gear (the Titan is a break beam, the Aster is retro reflective which is why it has stickers to put in the gearbox). The issue with optical sensors is that they can get dirty and stop working or you can sometimes get too much ambient light into the gearbox that interferes. With the Aster needing a white surface opposite the sensor, you can run into issues if the sticker isn't flat or doesn't adhere to the inside of the gearbox properly. The Perun Hybrid uses a hall effect (magnetic) sensor to do the same thing. Arguably this is more reliable but both systems rely on correct spacing

They have a sensor that reads the sector gear's teeth when they pass by and does some math to figure it out (Titan), or they have a sensor that reads the sector gear's cam (the one that engages the cutoff lever). Other mosfets like the old BTC Spectre or the G&G ETU still rely on a mechanical cutoff but it activates a microswitch instead of being read by an optical sensor.

It's a "timing issue" that occurs when the cycle stops right to the point where the cutoff lever engages the trigger trolley too early and said trolley is lifted from the trigger before closing the circuit. It's unavoidable and an inherent design flaw of AEGs. To permanently eliminate the issue you need a mosfet with cycle detection (replaces the cut off lever) like a Gate Titan/Aster or Perun Optical/Hybrid.

Thread lock isn't going to work very well if the threads aren't engaged properly, perhaps try some PTFE tape to build it up a bit?

It all started when I decided to turn an outbuilding into an indoor range for Airsoft. It was originally going to be some knock down targets and some paper targets with some form of BB catcher. This quickly turned into 'It would be good to have a system where I can have targets appear'. So I pulled out my Raspberry Pi that I had originally bought years ago to develop an LCD Dash for my Race Simulator. I ended up being gifted a working one from a company that made them so it was put back in its box and into a cupboard. After a bit of research, as I have never developed anything on the Pi, I ordered some vibration sensors from Amazon and grabbed some micro servos from the workshop. Now the idea I had was a small hit plate held on a base that would when 'off' would sit side on to the shooter. When 'on' it would rotate 90 degrees. The vibration sensor would then register any hits whilst it was rotated and score them. I fired up Fusion 360 and started designing the hit plate and base that would house the Servo. Onto the 3d Printer and many hours later I had both of the main components (I still need to design and print the arm the servo will connect to but I will do that when I have the hit plate mounted so I can work out the perfect position). I then fired up the Raspberry Pi and started coding (after a bit of youTube research!). Below is a video of the initial tests. To explain the parts you can see in the video, the big white plate is the hit plate and you are looking at the back of it. The small circuit with the 2 green LEDs is the vibration sensor. The big black block is the base where you can see the servo mounted within it. You can also see the Raspberry Pi with the signal wires plugged in. The white breadboard is being used to supply 5v to the servo and 3.3v to the sensor. After I run the code, which is a very early test, the User Interface is displayed (which will eventually show the mode selection, the timer, the results etc etc). Click go, it counts down from 3 and then moves the servo 90 degrees. Once this is connected to the hit plate once it is mounted, this will rotate the plate to face the shooter. I then tap the hit plate to simulate a BB hitting the plate, the vibration sensor recognises this a fires off the correct function in the code. Once the plate it it, you see the servo do a little wiggle (signifying a hit) and then returns to its original position which would turn the hit plate side on to the shooter. This initial test is for a speed mode where all the targets (I am thinking 6) turn to face the shooter at the same time, the shooter has to hit each one as quickly as possible and is timed until the last one turns back. Any other ideas that I can add to this? Any idea on other modes I can code in to this? Once this is done I will share all the code and stl files if someone else wants to make it as well. let me know what you think gents.

Thanks everyone for all your help on this one 👌 Will let you know what I go with.

A woman goes to her doctor's office to discuss a strange development. She has discovered a green spot on the inside of each thigh. They won't wash off, they won't scrape off, and they seem to be getting worse. The doctor assures her he'll get to the bottom of the problem and tells her not to worry until he gets the tests back. A few days later the woman's phone rings. Much to her relief, it's the doctor. She immediately begs to know what's causing the spots. The doctor says, "You're perfectly healthy there's no problem, but I'm wondering, was your boyfriend that biker guy in the waiting room?" The woman stammers, "Why yes, but how did you know?" "Tell him his earrings aren't real gold."

I've got a Classic Army m15a3 and a Tokyo Marui Ak47 which are both doing much the same. Would love to find a fix, though at this point in my revived Airsoft life I've "already got too many guns*" * Says no-one, ever

Did you measure the old nozzle length and buy accordingly? Also, revert all the upgrades (bar the nozzle) and test every piece individually to see if you can ID the part. You mentioned a ML rubber, which one is it? The older Macarons are notorious for having "too long" feed lips (within quotes because I run them and never had an issue) which affect feeding. The newer Super Macarons seem to have sorted it out, in addition to a larger contact patch and two convenient shoulders inside the rubber for rigidity. Failing all of the above, you may want to add a delayer chip to your sector gear, just be careful to install it the right way (shorter side on the left) otherwise you *may* incur in timing issues, though unlikely after watching those short videos. Another thing, I wouldn't run an aluminium nozzle, if the whole thing is not 100% aligned you risk chewing through hop rubbers like crazy. A simple polymer one with an o-ring will do.

Mile and a half 😂😂

a faster motor (or more juice to the existing one) isn't a pure technical solution to the issue, but it can practically solve the problem by making a lockup scenario less likely, you can only pull and release a trigger so fast after all. same applies to using mosfets like the ab++ or warfet, they don't remove the physical conditions for a lock to occurr but they can be setup to prevent the box ever stopping in the region where a lockup can occurr.

Not really, but you do you. First and last bursts come from the 2400mAh 40c battery It's not just the C rating, capacity (mAh) also plays a role. 2400 mAh battery dumps 88 amps (2400 x 40) while the 2700 mAh only dumps 27 (2700 x 10). In your audio you can clearly hear how the 27 amps battery renders the gun sluggish while the 88 amps one gives the gun a much healthier sound.

Sound pretty much the same to me bud lol. But I am deaf in one leg.🤣

i'd suspect if there's negative feedback on the account he's probably gonna switch it up regardless. i mean he's experienced enough in this scamming malarkey.

Iirc thats the same mechanism as i had retrofitted to the '42 to replace the awful agm trommel mag. From memory the spring for the winding portion on mine snapped at the end where it interfaced with the winding wheel meaning no tension on the bb stack, might be worth checking out. Another thing to look for is the length of the bowden tube, dont want excess that means extra friction and potential for tight bends.

Have you had it apart inside? I know one of the previous CA ones I had an odd loading platform that pushes things up, whereas the others basically use M4 hicap on its side. I've had a couple of different Bullgear ones and I'd recommend one of the inserts that fits into legit M249 cloth pouches. Mostly because you can easily pick up replacement out shells for £10 from your local surplus if yours starts to play up. Their own 3d printed hard wired one is much easier to load, but the fit is too picky (and I suspect you wouldn't be able to use it on the stoner anyway).

I'm assuming you've checked out all the BullGear internal replacement parts but either can't or don't want to go down that route at the moment? What are the internals on this one anyway, is it the "loading platform" type? In which case, could you substitute it with the MAG brand version (I think you'd need to retain the section where it meets the actual gun). It's a bit more straightforward. If you don't want to look at buying anything, just mods, then I'd probably be looking at making sure the bowden feed spring is good (can cause feed issues if it's been stretched) and looking at wiring options. Is it sound activated, pressure switch, direct wired? Other possibilities are jamming due to dirt/off sized BB's. Usually you can pull the spring from the gun portion and determine if it's a jam in that tube or internally, which might at least give you some pointers.

It helps though, and is a positive in itself. I got a few lockups on my JG G36 with the stock meh motor and V3 2-piece trigger. Both the minor trigger-trolly issue, and also a proper fuse-popper when the spring ended up almost fully compressed and the stock motor stalled out and wouldn't pull it any further. After switching to a Big Dragon M140, I never had another.

That was what I was thinking - which means cracking open the gearbox. Which I am far from comfortable doing at this stage of my limited experience. If it was simply splicing some wires and soldering, then fine. Especially as my gun has its MOSFET swinging in the breeze anyway. But having spunked a lot more than I was planning on already with this sport, I think I can wait and chalk this one up to a little added realism. I can save my pennies now for when I am in Japan and have access to a wider range of pew pews than I would here.

TM desert eagle .44 springer in silver first ever gun. stick mag. no hop-up. also desperately wanting the KWC two tone .50 version. having a TM spas 12 on the train on the way home from wolf armouries feeling like the man. trying to upgrade a TM mp5k after firing maybe 500 rounds and failing. sold it cheap and 500 rounds probably cost me £300

The Ferro Chesty and the OPS Minimo are basically self contained units that take placards. They don't rely on the placard having clips on the side to attach straps in the way that something like the Spiritus and Haley style micro rigs do. All you need is to clip the vertical clips in and attach the velcro. The straps are attached to the body of the chest rig.

For what its worth and if it saves anyone else getting bitten by this arse hat, he's still about on Airsoft Hub under the same username, Chris001. Had a message from him asking if I would entertain swaps on my Marui MEU, good communication to start but funnily enough he never replied after I said I'm only interested in selling. Only just put two and two together and realised it must be the same person.

As one of the Yanks who was lounging around listening to Rolling Stones hits when you attacked I salute your efforts. I could not believe you'd got that close without anyone spotting you, and the woeful cry of "Medic" woke 1st Platoon from it's post-lunch slumber as we tried to work out what the hell was going on. Believe me we all got a telling off afterwards about inattentive sentries, which clearly didn't go in, as after we'd evited the NVA/VC from the Firebase later in the day, I made the mistake of standing in the open outside my bunker, only to hear a "ping" as a sniper shot bounced off my helmet, and watched our medic run straight past me... From the US point of view it was quite unnerving with all the hit and run tactics, but I did laugh at the number of times the VC attacked our position just at the point relief troops were being rotated in. If only you'd turned up a few minutes earlier we'd have been in serious trouble. As it was 1st Platoon was down to 3 men defending our radio mast at one point, having lost our officer and the radio guy, which made for an intense period waiting for our relief to turn up. Anyway I completely agree with all the sentiments. The gameplay was great and I'd thoroughly recommend these events just for the atmosphere and amazing effort put into the kits.

Got reunited with my Remington earlier this year, now finished the overhaul and upgrades. MOE K2 flush fitted, safety delete, MESA shot shell holder, Romeo 3 optic, all new gas seals - has held pressure for a month now 😎

The birthday party at my friend’s house yesterday was no fun. I know he’s a Bomb Disposal Technician, but does it really take 4 hours to open each present?

You won't get a short bolt travel on a Cyma 702. Upgrade parts are limited, make sure you buy 702 specific and not parts for the Snow Wolf M24. So far I have replaced the hop unit, piston and spring guide, cylinder, cylinder head and put in a bearing trigger unit. Will be replacing barrel at some point. Sniper rifles are a money pit, nothing is "cheap and easy" unfortunately.

Bye felicia Would it be wrong to make a joke about a French man running away and hiding?

My finalised chest rig/belt kit. I really can't think of anything else it needs. It's ergonomically perfect and has exactly everything I need for a half day of games and nothing else: FNX with 2 mags, 3 hicaps, bb bag, fags and lighter, whistle, pockets for car keys and enough dump pouch space for anything I might need to stuff in there.

I've made a ouija board using alphabet spaghetti....it's great for contacting people who've pasta-way.👀

There’s so much ‘shadow stock’ crap these days too, I swear sellers are ordering in upon the customers order.

I'd suggest leaving the mounting piece in place and then look to make the new cover with some flex and internal nubs with matc the mounting points for the stock cover. It'll be a snap type fit and you can give the nubs the same size, position and depth of the screws so they shouldn't interfere with the working of the replica.

Clickbait title, poor quality content, airsoft drama. Kicking Mustang is that you?

When you use very heavy BBs at CQB distances, it only serve to increase pain on your target. Pure and simple. I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with this - except that kids play airsoft too. And at that point it just becomes cruel. Fortunately my sons opted out of playing the Bunker on Sunday, and after I showed them my 'war wounds' from the day, they very much affirmed that they have no desire to play there themselves. So with that in mind, I understand why some CQB sites will set a weight limit on the BB's.

"Dude", after 350 pounds mark you are not gonna getting any better performance or internals if we strictly talk about stock AEG's. People shouldn't be this thick in the age of internet but I don't care it"s not my money. I just tried to help. 😕