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Thanks for turning this up, that about concludes the case for the prosecution. I worked for a company run like that, with a policy of only paying when court bailiffs turned up to collect the furniture. When they eventually went under, they renamed the company by reversing the name, folded it, then started a new company with the old name the next morning. They got away with this twice more before eventually running out of fresh suppliers and banks that they could scam into extending them more credit. The boss was the nicest guy you could imagine, pillar of the community, nothing was too much trouble for him... except for paying the creditors that he was ruthlessly ripping off. They slither among us.

Not quite. It's a classic move of closing down one company and continuing to trade under a new name, it clears the debts as they're unsecured and in the name of the previous Ltd company. Just means it costs the rest of us more in fees as the likes of Lloyds and Paypal aren't going to want to be out of pocket in the long run. I'll let you draw your own conclusions as to why they'd owe Paypal so much.

Seeing as I had five minutes spare: Xtreme Tactical Ltd was incorporated on 19th February 2020, George is a Director. Prior to that he was a Director of Quantum Tactical UK Ltd (formerly Rifle Optics UK Ltd) between April 2017 and September 2018 and then again from November 2019 until it went into liquidation on 4th March 2020 with debts of £55,514.36 (£23,943.55 to Lloyds and the rest to Paypal). In the period between the two directorships the company was run by Paul, with the same surname as the aforementioned George. There was also a brief flirtation with Extreme Electronics Ltd but they must've decided against that as the company was struck off the register. All the above has been taken from official submissions to companies house and are available bere: https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/officers/Hz_Oz6Jv_dxKyCzBIxHPKEbrNMk/appointments

Done that to mine. So I'm looking forward to seeing yours.

I made up a DIY version- printer type fan and battery box that takes aa's from eBay. Works well, but when mounted on a helmet, you can hear it I tend to switch it on if fogging starts, then off when not needed. I'll post some photos and links to the bits when I get home. Total cost about £10, the most expensive but was a velcro helmet battery box to put it in..

Thank you both, you've been incredibly helpful. Personally I'm quite interested in the ham stuff as I know my grandad is also. I've signed up for the 3 week Essex ham course so I can learn what's required to pass the amateur exam and get the 27 pound license, so that shouldn't be an issue. I think I might go for the 8w version as mountain biking we do get quite split up if it's a longer trail with everyone going at their own pace. Just got to convince my friends to get it now and do the course so they have the knowledge too 😁 Thanks both for the help

James: If you're planning to use it for hiking and so longer range than airsoft use then the UV-5R would be a better choice but its more complex to use than the 888s. Could also be worth buying the longer range NA-771 antenna. Duno the difference between UV-5R models so you'll have to check on that. As Roger stated, you'll be into HAM territory so licence will likely be required to be legal. More research I'm afraid... Just found this So you can put a face to the voice 😏

I wouldn't get either, unless you're planning to play at some huge milsim site. 2W (BF-888S PMR / 88E, or basic UV-5R) is fine for most sites. For hiking, well, maybe, but are you planning on talking to your buddy who's just down the trail (in which case, see above), or to make an emergency call for help? In which case I wouldn't give advice, but would point you towards a hiking forum. 8W and arbitrary frequencies might mess up someone's day inadvertently, and you're getting into the actual HAM arena there. Sorry, beyond my ken.

Sorry mate , I misunderstood. Crossover stocks exist. Hold right handed, use left eye. Not sure if I've ever seen one on a rif. TBH I think that consistent mount is more important than sight picture for airsoft. My mask keeps my face too high to use the sights on most rifles, but I know where it shoots when its shouldered.

Donation widget is now up and running on PlayAirsoft. Thanks in advance for all your support, and please: don’t feel obligated to donate. I will be looking into better ways of supporting the site than donations. Something that works both ways, as opposed to just “gimme me money”. Changelog: Improved homepage which is now faster and clearer Added newsletter sign-up throughout the site (for later) Created a dedicated map page with proper map controls Blog has now an RSS feed, for those who still remember what it is and how to use it Individual location and region pages load much faster now and look way better, especially on mobile Added a few new site attributes: Site limits (AEG, DMR, Sniper; in Joules) Pyros (allowed/limited) Bio BBs (required/optional) What’s next? Dedicated search page with advanced filtering based on already existing attributes Display the latest three site additions on the homepage to facilitate discovery

Hope these pics help. They are from the Baofeng software disc. Regards

So not exactly the next Alan Sugar then

Yeh 330 with a 370mm. You can wind them up too 450 with an Npas and power gas. Go with 6.03, 6.00 is no good for dirt and accuracy.

Hi @shadowfacex🖐 Have you got green ops. A smallish woodland site run by ucap(up close and personal).located in Liphook. A good site with lots of props such as downed light aircraft a helicopter front half,military vehicles and more being added. Good game scenarios. Site can be challenging but not too much walking back to respawn. Large carpark at the end of a half mile rough track. Large covered safe zone. Great down to earth and experienced marshalls who aim to keep the games flowing and fair. Also run by ucap is the ww2 d-day tunnels under portsdown hill portsmouth. Something a little different and a challenge. Cqb at its most brutal lol but great,atmospheric play. Again plenty of authentic props and a few surprises! A little difficult to find as you would expect for a secret bunker. 2.5 miles of bunker to explore.niiice! Regards

At this point I think I may be considered a broken record, but... you should be able to find plenty of sites without personal opinions on https://playairsoft.uk. Just type in “outdoor” into the search box and off you go. I’m currently working on a proper search page with filtering, where you’ll be able to filter by “site type” among other attributes. Hopefully that will help folks who are looking for something a bit more specific than a typical Sunday skirmish at their local pewpew site (have nothing against those!). If a local site isn’t on there, I’d love for you to submit any details on it you may have, so I could add it to the list.

Try the ‘suggest a tech’ section mite get better results ?

Mine went from average of 330 on abbey predator at 20 degrees C to 368 on the same gas at around the same temp. Internals are stock except brass supernub, modify tan rubber and G&p roller for the BCG. Be aware first shot of a fresh mag is high if you leave it to warm up. Also, with Joule creep, using .36’s gives the equivalent of 410-415 FPS on .2’s.

You can definitely get Kydex ones made https://www.kydexcustomsuk.com/extras/custom-smg-holster and there is a fabric one made by Leapers/UTG but I think it may have been discontinued. As mentioned above one of the universal adjustable ones may be your only bet, alternatively you could sling it and use a weapon clip to stow it on your belt.

One of the universal holsters with the velcro adjustment is your best bet. Or you might try thingverse for a 3d printable one. There was a shoulder holster rig but haven't seen one for sale for a while.

So finally got the ICS UKSR sniper rifle stock and added it to my KWA Kriss Vector GBB. So given that the LayLax components are made for the Krytac AEG and not the KWA GBB, I'm guessing this is the only custom LayLax GBB Vector in existence (?). 😁

Having completely re-wired a friends ICS L85 recently, I can say the wiring's pretty simple really. If you bridge the two spring-loaded plungers in the upper receiver, the gearbox will cycle. The trigger switch in the lower only serves to bridge those plungers with a disconnector attached for semi auto. Looking at the AB++ wiring diagram from Perun, I would attach both red wires (from the mosfet and to the motor) onto one of the plunger bars - either splice the wire and use the stock connector, or solder both wires directly. I would then attach the signal wire to the other plunger. Something like this: You should end up with wiring in line with perun's recommended setup

Re: the sighting issue. Try a larger rear ring sight, or moving the existing one backwards. They are supposed to work by not being focused on, i.e they should work better then an AK type that demands focussing on three different things i.e. rear sight/front sight/target. With a well set up ring/ghost sight you only see the front post and target. With practice, you only see the target. After 30+ years of rifles I can't use AK type sights as well, as close range focus issues limit use of the rear V sight.

Hi again all, so my first time paying airsoft in probably 20 years this past Sunday and it was definately an enjoyable experience. One thing that did kind of fuck me up though was the use of muscles in my legs and arse from crouching and chucking myself around a lot. Today the pain is an absolute bugger but hey ho. The exercise on its own is enough for me to actually proceed with taking it up properly, it has also pushed me into going for runs again. I kinda misjudged the weather too, supposed to be overcast and mild but it was bloomin hot and sunny so the sweat kinda fucked with my vision a bit ala the goggles, i have anti fog wipes but i misplaced them a few weeks ago when cleaning. I also noticed that using iron sights with a rearward rear sight (M4) was a right pain in the arse as the vision in my right eye was damaged due to stress and other crap at my previous job and im right handed. Swapped the M4 easily enough from right to left handed when needed (different sides of cover) but it didn't feel as natural, i guess practice will cure that. When i shoot my mates air rifles using a scope with my right eye its a no go, i have to use the left eye and go left handed and cocking the bolt handle is a pain but again hey ho. I tried the sights on a friends springer AK that he won at a fair and as the style of rear sight on an AK is in the middle and further forward its a lot easier getting a decent sight picture with my left eye holding the rifle right handed so it seems an AK style sight system (or a raised reflex or red dot of some sort) would also probably work. Anyway an enjoyable time all round.

I'll grab that as I spotted the selector plate as a weak point on mine. Saves me modelling it up myself. I eliminated the ambi selector as it never worked anyway.

Played a game many moons ago where we only had X number of ’real’ and low cap mags between each team(there was only 18 of us there) you could reload them BUT you had to take and hold one of three ammo dumps around the site to do so then once the mags where reloaded you had to Frank boff out of it . The game started out with the ammo dumps closed and you had to complete tasks to activate them , has to be said was bloody good fun !

That should be an Airsoft patch 😂

Nobody said that they were. Why bring it up? I'm fine for QC rejects being sold at full whack, thanks all the same. Useful information for potential purchasers. I can prove I have fresh apples (how do you like them?), but that doesn't prove that my oranges aren't rotten. Nobody said there was. What a bizarre thing to refute. Well, I know whose reputation and integrity I'll be trusting based on the quality of this contribution.

I hear Kicking Mustang beat the record. Guiness disputes it but his scope cam clearly shows the hit. 😄

Depends a lot on a few things really bud , budget/transportation/what’s going in the box and even just the look you want ? Budget , that’s the simplest to answer are you on a tight budget ? so you’d be looking at a cheap’n’cheerful single gun case from Fleabay or have you a mound of beer tokens to spend so a Pelli case is the best ? OR something in between . Transportation , are you putting it straight in to the back of your car and then straight out and on to a table in the safezone(so the fleabay one is good enuff) OR are you jumping out of the back of a Herc at 30,000ft and HALO’ing in to get to your gameday ? In which case I’d recommend a Pelli case ! Or something inbetween .😉 Whats going in the box , just the gun on its own or all the bells’n’whistles that go with it as well ? Is it going to be a box just for that one gun or as you get more (and you will ! 🤦‍♂️) you’ll be using the same case for all of them . The look you want , do you want something that looks quite incongruous(so it won’t stand out in public)or your not bothered if it looks like something Q would send to James Bond full of guns and gadgets ? 👍

Thanks for the info lads, PlayAirsoft looks like it has quite a bit of potential. I can see a few sites are missing from the North East so I'll suggest a couple of new locations.

So, not a review per se of their Alton (near Winchester) site, more a few notes on my day there today (22/8/2021) with myself + my son + his two cousins (12 + 11 + 13, and all good sensible boys taking their hits and playing fair, with the 11 year old being a "Silver" rental). To start with I have to say it's the best site I've been to yet in the almost year I've had since playing airsoft, my son really liked it and it's his new no1 site (we've played mixed indoor / outdoor and full on indoor CQB). I didn't take any photos as I was having too much fun, which is what it's all about, and the Google Streetview points all around the site pretty much show it as it is however it was a little more overgrown than shown and all the better for it (snipers could properly hide, one game not moving onto the next round when everyone though it was over as he was so well hidden) and there was lots of good green cover). It was a nice day in the end, mild and sunny, however I think once winter hits it could get quite muddy and you'll loose the leaves of the trees so maybe easier to spot others with more ambient light). There's definitely small stone / flint about here and there so I was very glad to have good "Alta Industries" knee pads which helped a lot with keeping low. It's a big site, the car park, safe zone and the various gameplay "zones" they have (most of which are in the forest). The briefing and chrono were both good, however the marshals were very good being nice and loud for all to hear them and pushing on teams that were slacking, plus friendly. Site shop pricing was very fair for ammo and stuff, but I'd say bring your own food as the variety offered was just book in advance pizzas and chocolate and crisps (but lots of chilled drinks). The toilets were clean and well looked after, for me a sign of somewhere that cares about their image. The safe zone was good, but be aware that only a third or so of the picnic benches are under cover so if it's a rainy day get there early to claim a covered one. I'd say a solid 8 to 9 out of 10, and will definitely be going back. Edit: I think a good part of the day going well was due to this guy... https://www.instagram.com/sheezdog/ .. who was the head marshal / managing the games, and on the day was always polite and friendly no matter how many lame questions I put his way. Edit 2: And keep your eyes out for an almost new PTS EPM 1 mag out there somewhere 😢 (I should never have let my son borrow it, they're so damned expensive, and to be honest a wind up high cap feeds my DE M904E just as well)

Ah yes I've had a few,but then again too few to mention The most memorable being two sound activated singing fish hidden in my stepsons bridal suite! Well I thought it was funny.😳😳 Regards

Introduction: I’m making this guide for several reasons, not least because I’m sad and have nothing better to do, or maybe I’m procrastinating from doing real work, but I’d also like to get down on paper some thoughts on the science of our pew pew guns and clear up some misconceptions or at least get a discussion going to better our understanding. This guide is going to be a combination of actual science (well, as close as I can get to actual science ) and some personal experience, I’m by no means the most experienced airsofter out there but I’ve tried over the years to get an understanding of what’s going on and for those new to the hobby this might save some time barking up the wrong tree as I’ve done. Part 1: the goal Well this is simple, our goal is to shoot some random stranger on a farm on a Sunday and “kill” him, or at least hit him with a plastic pellet and for him to shout “hit” and plod off back to a chequered flag. This sounds pretty easy, but we need to start somewhere, so what do we need to make this happen? Well we need to hit him for a start, always helps, but not only that but we need to hit him hard. That’s not to say we need to hurt him, but whilst we can argue all day about wether or not people should wear plate carriers the short of it is you need your bb’s to hit with enough energy that he either feels it or hears the impact (which on a field of explosions and other people pew pewing can be difficult). So when our bb hits the target it needs energy. This is why I dislike to some extent the “you can get lots of range from a 328fps gun” argument, yes you can, but how far the bb travels isn’t the only part of getting a kill and just hitting isn't always enough sadly. Part 2: some misconceptions One thing that I see a lot in various threads is “upgrade your fps it’ll give you more range” or “change to x y or z hop it’ll give you more range” or “use x type of bb it’ll give you more range”, which is both right and wrong depending on how you judge range which will become more clear later. The thing to remember is once your bb leaves your barrel it doesn’t care what happened before, it could have come from a speedsofter’s £3000 hpa or some kids £90 rental ak, it only has 3 things on it’s side to fight the wind/tree branches/gravity to get to the target and these are: Backspin- this gives us our wonderful magnus force that will fight gravity and keep our bb in the air without needing to go at proper bullet speeds Mass- how much the bb weighs Energy- kinetic energy, we often like to use fps as our measurement as it’s how we can best record our performance but what really matters is energy So we should probably cover these 3 as they apply to our bb in flight. part 3- backspin backspin gives us our magnus force, the science behind it is quite interesting and worth a read if you’re interested in expanding your knowledge but in reality the only thing that we need to know is if our hop unit is set right. Now this is different for every setup, how fast the bb is actually spinning doesn’t really matter to us, it could be 1rpm or 10,000 rpm, we don’t care we just want our bb to fly straight. Now personally I set my hop units for a little bit of rise, about 20cm, so that when the bb comes out it’ll rise up by 20cm then start falling back down. The logic here is that if I’m aiming for someone’s chest it’s not going to jump up over their head, miss then drop back down behind them. We’ve all been there where our hop has made us miss someone. In terms of the physics the amount of lift we get depends on 2 things: The speed of rotation, which is pretty much constant after the bb has left the barrel (well, it slows down a bit but not much) The velocity of the bb When we “set” our hop unit what we’re doing is setting the speed of rotation to get the right lift, but if we change ammo or change springs the bb will either be going slower (needing more spin to get the same lift) or faster (needing less spin). Now the important thing to remember is that if we’re spinning x rpm, then there’s y velocity that gives us the exact amount of lift to fight gravity, but of course a bb doesn’t stay at y velocity, it slows down which is where mass comes in. Part 4- mass So we have our spin, but as I mentioned bb’s slow down, and this is the misconception I had many years ago that faster bb=more range The important thing is air resistance, which the faster you go the more of it you have so your bb slows down quicker (moving it out of that sweet spot for the hop spin to work) So say we have a 1j gun, we fire at 328fps on a .2g bb and 270fps for a .3gbb well that .2g bb is going faster, so it has more drag, and it’s lighter so the drag has more effect. The end result is the bb slows down very quickly and it doesn’t take long for it to slow down so much our backspin stops lifting it. Whereas the .3g bb is slower and harder to slow down, sure it might have started out slower but over time it keeps it’s velocity and hence stays in that nice range where the backspin can lift it. So in theory at least a heavier bb spun sufficiently will for the same energy always go further, take a look at the spreadsheet at the bottom and see what I mean. But wait, it gets better! Remember I said we need 2 things to hit a target? Well a heavier bb gives us both! In the real world we’re shooting through wind and worse leaves, these are forces just like regular ol’ drag and a heavy bb will be blown about less by the wind and has a better chance of punching straight through those pesky leaves and hitting the target, so we get more accuracy, yay! But not only are they more accurate they also carry their energy better, so when we do hit the target at range it’s going to hit it harder, and thus make enough force and noise to let the target know they’ve been hit. So where’s the downside? Why wouldn’t you run sniper .48’s in every gun you own and on every site? Well several reasons: 1. Cost, damn that pesky real world economics, but obviously heavier bb’s cost more. If you find somewhere selling .48’s for the same price as .2’s then let me know because that’s awesome. Those of us that own support guns with high rates of fire will most likely wince at having to fill it up with costly ammo only to be sprayed into the ether, likewise snipers who don’t shoot much can afford the good stuff hence why they like to run heavy. 2. Travel time, again this is the real world being all awkward and getting in the way of our lovely discussion but remember that our target may not be nice enough to stand still and wait to get hit, especially if he sees our bb’s coming towards him. Heavy bb’s might carry their energy better but they’re slower and take longer to go the same distance, not much longer, but it's enough. edit: it must be noted that a large proportion of perceived travel time is down to the additional range, whilst a .2 will be faster over a short distance remember that a .3 or .4 will still be chugging along long after the .2 as slowed down and dropped. 3. Getting the lift, unfortunately the same properties that make a bb great in flight make them bad for spinning up in the hop unit, and this means that you may find you can’t run them without upgrading your gun and if (like me at the time) you don’t understand fully why it’s happening. This is the “more hop” argument for things like maple leaf/flathop/rhop guns, it isn’t about getting lots of hop on .2’s, it’s about being able to get enough hop on .3’s or heavier. 4. When you don’t need range, now I play mostly outdoors on sites limited to 1j, so for me getting every drop of performance I can is paramount, but say you’re playing in cqb where the maximum distance is maybe 10m, well there’s not much point spending money getting a setup that can shoot well beyond that if you’re not going to be using it, you’d be much better spending money on grenades. So what weight should you run? Well as heavy as you can afford and your gun can lift. Personally I use .3’s for all my “assault” type guns, .2’s in my mg42 (even though it shoots lovely on .3’s) and .43’s in my vsr, although should I ever sell my soul and play indoors I’ll just run .2’s. Part 5- energy So our final ingredient is energy, most folks will know this as fps because when we’re getting our guns checked at the local site that’s what we get told “oh sorry you’re 400fps and the limit is 350 so you can’t play”. Well what’s really important is energy, kinetic energy, which is a factor of our bb mass and it’s velocity, it’s why the limits are different for different weights of bb’s and why it’s a common tactic of the cheater to rock up at the chrono and say “yeah I’m running .2’s” and to chrono at 328fps while anyone with a lick of sense can hear the smack of the bb’s against the backstop and think “like hell is he running .2’s” This is where I take exception to the argument of “marui’s shoot fine at 328fps, you don’t need fps to get range”, well you do, or at least you should try to get your gun shooting as close to your site limit as you can. The short argument is energy is energy and more is always better, the long version is that energy gives us the velocity that means we need less backspin and can run heavier bb’s without them being really slow and letting our targets stroll out of the path of our righteous pewing. Remember once the bb leaves the barrel it only has 3 things, and mass is the only one it’ll not lose as it flies downrange. As your bb slows down in the wind it loses energy so the more of it you have at the start the better, it’s why all the cheaters want to run hot. A friend of mine recently lent me his m16 to do a bit of work on, he was keeping up in terms of range with most of the folk he was shooting at in part due to a good hop, but he’d rage daily at people not taking hits until we chrono’d it to find it shooting at half the site energy, turned out his floating bb’s were hitting with so little force if he was at any distance people just weren’t feeling it. Now to digress from external ballistics for a second (well, more like 10 minutes) to talk about joule creep. Think about it like this, our bb in the barrel gets pushed by gas, and how long it gets pushed for depends on the length of the barrel and how quickly it’s getting pushed. Joule creep is what happens when you have an “over gassed” gun firing .2’s, whilst you can do this with an aeg or a spring sniper it’s much more common in gas/hpa guns. Think about it like this, your gun can only push so hard, and a light bb will get up to speed very quickly, once it leaves the barrel then it’s not going to be pushed any more. So imagine we had a longer barrel, well if we push just as hard over a longer distance then the bb will spend more time accelerating and hence be going faster. Well the other way to make a bb spend more time in the barrel is to make it accelerate slower, now we can do this by making the bb heavier, so for the same force it’ll accelerate less (remember newton’s f=ma? Who says math class in school was useless). Now it’s not going to come out any faster than the light bb, but it doesn’t need to, it’s heavier so doesn’t need to go as fast to have the same energy. A good way to test this is to take a WE or marui gbb pistol, fill it up with .2’s and chrono it, for the sake of argument lets say it fires at 328fps which is 1j Now try it with .3’s and it fires 300fps, which is 1.2j or equivalent to firing a .2 going at 370fps This is why it’s important to chrono a gun on the weight you plan on using in a game, because a player can perfectly honestly, indeed without even realising himself, chrono his gun on .2’s and pass, but then fill his mags with .3’s and spend the rest of the day shooting a hot gun. Now you can argue all day that “yeah but he passed the chrono”, well it’s the exact same thing as running hot, the effect is the same (ie it hurts more and he has a more range), if everyone on the site does it or is happy with people doing it then the site's limits should be changed to reflect this. so digression aside what energy should you run? Well my opinion is you should take your site limit in joules and get your gun to shoot that on the ammo you use, any less will be a disadvantage and any more will be cheating. Part 6- nerd time! Well, that was a long rant without nerdy equations and whatnot so time to put our science hats on. So our bb in flight has 3 forces acting on it: Lift- from our magnus force, this is a product of our backspin and our velocity. The full equation I’ve used is for a cylinder but it’s close enough for showing the effect: Fl=ρ*v*2*π*r²*l*ω Looks an awful lot like it’s not just backspin and velocity there so lets break it down: Fl is our lifting force v is our velocity ω is our angular velocity (aka how much spin we have) r is our radius l is our length (for the cylinder example I stole this equation from) ρ is the density of air so if you think about it, if we make some broad assumptions we can say that the spin doesn’t slow down (at least not enough to make a difference) and the density of air doesn’t change enough to make a difference either. Now we’re dealing with the same size of bb so really the only things that can change are F as a product of v and ω. Drag- this is just from velocity and bb diameter (so sorry marushin guys but not sorry, we’re dealing with 6mm spheres here), although once again we have a more complicated equation: F=0.5*ρ*v²*Cd*A Ok so that’s not as bad Fl once again is our force, only this time it’s for drag Ρ has snuck in again, it’s the same atmospheric density v is a bit of a cheat, technically it’s the velocity of the air against the bb but I’m not NASA so the velocity of the bb is close enough Cd is our drag coefficient, again a big simplification but for our purposes we’re saying 0.47 for a sphere that’s got turbulent air around it (little known pseudo fact marui “magic dust” actually bonds the airflow to the bb causing laminar flow dropping the Cd to 0.1! (*not entirely serious)) A is our frontal area of the bb, good ol’ πr² So making the same assumptions before, with the addition of assuming turbulent flow, we end up with Fd being variable as a result of v. Gravity- this is from our bb weight and here comes the scary equation: Fg=m*g Wait, what? That was meant to be complicated! Well once again it is, technically g can depend on where on earth you are but in reality nobody cares because it’s close enough. Remember back to school math g is 9.81m/s² So with that explained on to the bit where I skip the really dull bit and just tell you to go look at the spreadsheet, basically it takes these 3 equations and with the starting parameters you give it it’ll spit out a graph of how different weight bb’s will fly. So as a quick note on it’s use: Muzzle energy- I’ve rated this as fps on a .2gbb just because that’s a unit we’re all familiar with, if you want to use joules it’s to the right of the reset hop button MED distance- this is the distance of your MED, for snipers interested in just how much hurt your 500fps gun running .5g bb’s inflicts on someone at 20m Energy at MED- this gives you an MED if you want to know how far a bb goes before it slows down to a given energy, useful for showing how far a bb can go whilst still hitting as hard as an equivalent gun point blank. Reset hop- this was a right pain making the spreadsheet so unfortunately the best I can do is fix the hop setting for a 20cm rise before it drops again, this will change if the fps is different so remember to press that button otherwise you’ll get some suspiciously good range numbers and some strange graphs. Maximum range- this I’ve set to the distance I’d call the “effective” range, ie when a bb has risen 20cm from where it left the barrel, then drop to 20cm below where it left the barrel, so if you fire at a man sized target you’ll hit him without needing to fire your gun wildly into the air and assuming he’s kind enough to stand there and get shot. So a couple of interesting points to note: Say we have a site, regular rifles have no MED and can be 1.3j or 375fps, snipers have 2.3j or 500fps but they have a 20m MED: Our rifleman running .2’s can shoot 38m, but if he can get enough spin to lob a .5g bb he’ll shoot 52m Our sniper running .2’s can shoot 43m, and at 20m the hit is a measly 0.4j or the same as being shot point blank by a 205fps gun, thing is if he packs .5’s in his gun he’ll shoot 60m and more importantly at 20m he hits with 1.27 joules, or the same as being hit by the rifleman at point blank So with that I’ll leave you to have a little play. Part 7- but I’m not a nerd! What do I need to do to get my gun to shoot far? So we’ve covered pretty well the science of how to get a bb to go far, it needs to be heavy, with lots of energy, and enough spin and if it has those 3 things it’ll go as far regardless of what gun it comes from. So why spend money on a fancy polarstar kit with an rhop like my favourite youtuber uses? Well back at the start we mentioned you need 2 things to get hits, and the first is you need to hit in the first place. This is where all our upgrades come in, a fancy barrel and hop unit wont make your bb’s go any further, but what it will mean is they’ll all start the same, we’ve all seen that guy with his 50rps dsg build m4 spray a mag load of bb’s only to get salty and rage because “he’s not calling his hits” when in reality by the time it gets to the target it’s a 10 foot spread and he's not hitting a thing. So the first place I’d recommend looking is your hop unit, there’s a million different designs that promise the earth so I’m just going to cover the standard, flat and radial hop and hopefully explain what’s going on so you can understand what some of the fancier designs out there like maple leaf are doing. So the standard hop is what most guns come with these days, it’s basically a lump of rubber in your barrel: Now lets add the bb, the trick here is to realise that a barrel is not exactly 6mm and neither is the bb, nothing is perfect and there’s a tolerance. So when you’re buying expensive barrels and bb’s what you’re really paying for is for them to be exactly the size they say they are and in the case of bb’s to be all exactly the same size. Now a bb is slightly smaller than the barrel, so we can be sure it won’t get stuck, this is why it’s important to keep your barrel and ammo clean because enough dirt and it’ll be rubbing it’s way down messing up that lovely backspin we want. Now we want our backspin to be the same every time, not just in terms of how much backspin there is but also in terms of the backspin being the same every time: The perfect scenario is vertical spin like this: But of course the bb isn’t going to be nice and pop perfectly in the centre every time: So our spin is at an angle, and as a result our magnus force will also be at an angle, lifting the bb not just up but sideways, this means it’ll try and curve off to the left or right, and because not all the force it acting upwards it’ll also lift up more or less, this is our friend with his ultra fast gun shooting a 10 foot spread and not hitting anything. So our alternative is to flat hop, and try to minimise this angle: Which when we try our wonky bb does this: So we get less angle, our bb’s drift less and our spread is less, meaning our bb’s are much more likely to hit what we’re aiming at, not only that but a flat hop will have a longer contact patch, or in other words it spends longer spinning the bb, meaning we can spin heavier bb’s and get all the wonderful benefits heavier ammo allows us. Flat hopping a gun really isn’t as hard as you’d think it would be and can get some excellent results for very little money, and whilst it wont give you more total range on it’s own, it will give you accuracy and the ability to use heavier ammo increasing the range you can hit things. edit: as a minor digression i figure i might as well cover how to make a flathop seeing as it's one of the best bang for buck airsoft upgrades out there as you can really tighten up the groupings of a gun potentially for free: 1. remove the hop from your gun, this can be very simple or very difficult depending on the particular model, for example my f2000 is just 1 pin to remove the upper and the hop/barrel is right there to pull out, but a jg ak takes much more disassembly, as with all things youtube the gun you have for a guide, take your time and remember- as long as you don't lose parts you can always take it to a tech to get it sorted, so don't worry. 2. pull the stock hop unit apart, you want the rubber and the nub (the little cylindrical rubber thing that'll drop out when you remove the barrel), the nub you can toss away as you'll want to replace it with a flat nub, various manufacturers (Prometheus being somewhat prominent) make these but if you're handy with a knife and super cheap you can make a heath robinson flat nub out of a pencil eraser. again youtube is your friend for how to disassemble and re-assemble a hop unit. 3. turn the stock hop rubber inside out, this can be tricky and i find using an alan key (or similar pokey type object) can help tremendously, don't use anything sharp though as you don't want to poke holes in your rubber (air leaks are bad m'kay) 4. cut the bump off the inside, as well as the ridge on the bottom used to line it up, or if you prefer there are pre-made flathop rubbers out there which will save you the bother. the important thing we're aiming for here is no holes, and no bumps on the inside of the rubber 5. put the hop rubber back on the barrel, but remember where the ridge was? well turn that 90 degrees from the ridge on the barrel, this way we've got the side of the original hop rubber on the barrel which will be nice and smooth (assuming like me you couldn't be bothered to fully sand down the insides and instead just spent 20s with a pair of snips during step 4) 6. this step is optional but recommended is to take some ptfe tape and wrap it around where the hop and barrel overlap, the idea here is to seal air particularly where the ridge cut in the barrel is that is no longer sealed as we've removed the ridge, you don't need too much or else you'll have a hard time re-inserting your barrel into the hop chamber 7. re-assemble the hop unit, this should mostly be the reverse of the dissassembly, with the exception that we're replacing the original round nub with our new flat nub, you may need to trim the nub a bit shorter to fit the hole in the hop unit (which will again depend on brand). now the trick here is when you've got it assembled to take a look down the barrel, turn the hop on all the way and check it's working, and also check the angle it's coming out at, if it's down too far on one side or the other this will pull your shots off to that side so we want it nice and square, the way i do this is literally to "twiddle" the barrel until everything's nice and square. 8. finally, drop your hop back in your gun and go pew. But what if we want more? More is good right? Well my friend in steps the Rhop: Man it took ages to align that and it still looks wonky. Now this might sound controversial but in my opinion the rhop isn’t really much different to a flathop, but the devil’s in the details. Firstly it’s going to actively pull the bb’s into the centre, if you look at some of the fancy hop designs (like maple leaf) you’ll see they’re trying to go for the same idea. The DIY rhop just takes a regular flat hop and pops a cut up square of rubber in the window of the barrel, commonly you'll see folk mentioning silicon hose or you can buy dedicated rhop patches. when it’s turned on it can end up looking very flat inside the barrel, but remember when it deforms it’ll wrap round the bb: So we get as close as we can get to perfect vertical spin every time, and we have the same longer contact patch the flat hop gave us so we can still lift heavy ammo. Now remember that a bb’s lift is not just a product of spin, but also its velocity and herein lies the advantage of the rhop. Hop up rubbers come in different hardness’s, and like formula 1 fans will tell you a soft rubber is going to be grippy and a hard rubber not so grippy, now these aren’t cars but there’s one solid advantage to a hard rubber and that’s stopping leaks- remember your airsoft gun is chucking a lot of air behind that bb and air likes to escape. Now one way is to go down the barrel and shove the bb out of the way, but if it can shove its way out past the hop rubber or the nozzle or better yet just not go anywhere and stay in this nice cylinder thank you very much then it will. This is why common advice is to check for air leaks. Now since we’re talking about hops we’ll simply say that if you want a soft grippy rubber to spin your heavy bb’s then it’s going to be easier for the air to squish the rubber out of the way and sneak out, so we want a hard rubber, this is why hard rubber’s tend to be recommended for snipers as it’ll help prevent air leaks, and if you’ve played with the spreadsheet you’ll see that faster bb’s need less spin to lift, so the grip is less relevant if your gun is shooting fast. Well an rhop gives you the best of both worlds, because the patch and the main body of the rubber are separate you can have a nice hard air sealing rubber on the outside and a nice soft grippy rubber on the inside, yay! Downside is these can be a bit of a pain to get right, however it’s worth experimenting because the boost in accuracy and by extension effective range is a worthy payoff. now i haven't covered bb's barrels gearboxes and springs because frankly it's pretty straightforward: good bb's are consistent in size, weight, surface polish and roundness, check out Gasman's topic if you want to look at what makes up a good bb. good barrels are straight, there's no variation along their length, tight versus widebore is it's own topic but in my opinion that's secondary to quality (ie if you care enough to consider proper tight/widebores you should really focus on quality too) the argument for a tightbore is that it will allow less "wobble" of the bb as it can't rattle around as much, of course the counter argument is that the tighter tolerances mean the bb could hit the barrel and as a result gain spin in a different direction pulling the shot off. the inverse is true for widebores, whilst they could let the bb bounce around more the theory is the bb will be kept centred by a cushion of air and thus not bounce on the sides and get off-axis spin. barrel length isn't all that important for accuracy, anyone who's met the wrath of my 4" pdi barreled hicapa can attest to that, although for certain setups a long barrel can be rather useful (like trying to go for a quieter build, especially with hpa) i'll let you decide for yourself which side of the barrel argument you sit on, but remember quality is absolutely king. personally i get good results from pdi tightbores, but i've not really tried proper quality widebores to compare. good gearboxes don't leak air, so they have good o rings, good tolerances and good compression, apart from that most gearbox discussions are more about supporting higher rates of fire, reliable feeding etc. and springs give you more fps, pretty self explanatory, pick the right one for your setup and site limits. edit: hop units (ie the likes of madbull or pro-win) have more sensitive adjustments, features like the addition of tracer or holding bb capability, and are generally better quality, however they are not essential when compared to the rubbers and nubs they contain most of what makes an hpa system so good is it gives the same pressure and volume of air for every single shot and consistency of fps=consistency of spin=accuracy=effective range, it's also much easier to achieve reliable high rates of fire and the ability to tune your fps can be handy if you regularly travel to sites with different limits, of course the price you pay for this is having to carry around the small bomb air tank on your back all the time. Part 8- conclusions Well the primary conclusion from this is that I should really be getting back to doing proper work, and that it’s almost certain I’ve just annoyed several strangers on the internet with my wonky diagrams and half-baked ponderings who will proceed to tell me I’m wrong about something. Now I’m not trying to lie to you, and if I am wrong I’d like to know because at least half of what I know has been learned through internet arguments. hell I used to think running .2’s was the best way to go for low fps until a bunch of strangers on the internet told me I was wrong. When I properly tried it to prove to myself I was right I realised I was wrong, and now look at me preaching the benefits of heavy ammo, with science! The best way to learn this stuff is to try it, it might be scary to crack open your first hop unit and cut it up with a pair of snips to make a flat hop but if you’re too scared to do it the first time you’ll never be able to try it a second or third time and eventually get it right. But if you think I’ve made a mistake, or I’m spreading misinformation then please explain yourself so I can understand what the problem is and either admit i'm wrong and learn something, or prove you wrong and you'll learn something, either way someone gets to learn something and: now if anyone asks, i've been researching de-lamination of fibre matrix composites all morning ;) BB range study.xlsm edit 1: cleared up an issue with travel time using heavier bb's (ie it's only slower over short distances and the difference isn't that much), added a rough guide to flathopping (more as a motivation as to it being easy and effective than an actual tutorial), fixed a few spelling mistakes and changed some wording to make it a bit clearer in parts.

https://m.facebook.com/comment/replies/?ctoken=2446193202169699_2448540315268321&ft_ent_identifier=2446193202169699&gfid=AQBgh0oclC-dGibU&notif_t=group_comment&notif_id=1574166562644283&ref=m_notif Dis dude has some serious issues. His fanboy is just plain retarded.

Having not seen more than a few minutes of his footage EVER, mainly because I detest so called Airsoft/YouTube celebs (as well as all the other non entity "celebs"), I'm guessing that his cheat calling & other defamatory comments about other players is actually all very hushed, spoken only for the benefit of the cameras he's wearing, & that he doesn't actually have the balls to "out" people to their faces ?, & face the consequences 🤕

Sometimes while watching these YouTube airsofters, I feel like I'm the only one who plays at a site/in a manner which deems full-auto up close to be poor etiquette!? To then make the amount of pain you've brought someone by doing this your video title, definitely sets the wrong tone. KM sprayed someone in the face with a Master Mike from literally a metre or two. He went on to claim it was an accident but it was something which was likely to happen when you blind/pre-fire corners with a grenade launcher at head height.

I'm in the hosp so trying to watch it with no volume, but it's immediately evident he's going for headshots, often purposely moving the cross hairs from centre mass up to head before pulling the trigger. Yep, he's a dick lol🤡

To be honest, I don't agree with whinging about being shot in the face. We don't use accurate guns, not even the sniper rifles are. Don't want to bleed from the chops? Wear full face or stfu. Banning people for headshots is, on the face of it, daft, but really he's been banned for breaching the waiver.

At that price I’d expect an asylum seeker trotting along next to me gently mopping my brow with a damp cloth ! Freely admit I sweat like a pig in a synagogue and I wear inserts in my glasses as well , so after yrs of trying all and sundry ways to solve the conundrum that is fogging I’ve settled on revision anti fog wipes , and in between each game give my glasses a ‘top up’ wipe . Yes I do still get a bit of fogging if I go static mid exertion BUT it’s never loosing vision bad AND as soon as I start moving again it clears immediately .