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SCAM WARNING. I would like to warn you all of a scam of which I have been a victim. Here's how the scam works: Two seriously good-looking voluptuous 20-25 year-old girls come over to your car as you are packing your shopping into the boot. They both start cleaning your windscreen, their breasts almost falling out of their skimpy T-shirts. When you thank them and offer them a tip, they'll say 'No' and instead ask you for a lift to another supermarket store, in my case, Waitrose. You agree, and they both get into the back seat. On the way, they start undressing, until both are completely naked. Then, when you pull over to remonstrate, one of them climbs over into the front seat and starts crawling all over your lap, kissing you, touching you intimately, and thrusting herself against you, while the other one steals your wallet! I had my wallet stolen on October 4th, 9th,10th, twice on the 15th, 17th, 20th, 24th and 29th. Then again on November 1st, 4th, 6th, 10th,13th, 18th, 23rd, 25th, and twice yesterday. So, please warn all the other men you know to be on the lookout for this scam. The best times are just before lunch and about 4:30 in the afternoon. Morrisons have wallets on sale for £2.99 each, but Lidl's are only £1.75, and look better.

My armoury wall

About a month ago, i had an opportunity to purchase a brand new and never fitted Daytonagun M240b kit and a Golden Eagle M240b that a good friend of mine had converted into a GPMG. He'd been unable to find anyone that would fit the kit for him in the uk, I told him id give it a go and ended up buying the lot from him when he decided to call it a day with airsoft. So having managed to buy the lot including a bottle, reg and line that had never been used for 1/3 of the retail price, i figured "ehhh how difficult can this be? these are drop in kits anyway" WRONG so it turns out that there are minor differences internally with the Golden Eagle M240b when compared to the A&K M240b, the kits are made to fit the A&K... however these "minor" internal differences are a significant issue when fitting the Daytona Kit. When looking on the daytona website for instructions (very vague) i noticed a section that said "will only fit Golden eagle with extensive modification" these modifcations turned out to require the following. 1) filing out areas of the reciever where the AEG gearbox sits 2) the removal of approx 1mm of material either side of the aluminium block that slides in the rear of the reciever and supports the back of the daytona kit 3) measuring out, drilling and counter sinking the holes in the lower that hold the daytona kit in place - these holes are present on the A&K and are used to secure the gearbox, not so for the golden eagle. before we go any further at this point, im not a trained or qualified engineer or modelmaker, i'm definitely an amateur in this sense. after much careful measuring, scoring, countersinking and filing down here and there i finally managed to get the aluminium block to slide comfortably into the rear of the reciever. following this the holes were measured and drilled in the lower reciever to hold the Daytona Engine in place. the kit is a work of art in terms of how well it fits, and the quality of its manufacture! once it was fit, i concentrated on the barrel and hopup mechanism for the daytona engine, not an obviously intuitive task either. had to knock some pins out to remove the original hopup unit, then sand about 0.1mm from the inside of the outer barrel casting to get the hop unit to properly fit. however after a lot of trial fitting and careful alignment, everything went in perfectly.. . coming down to the first Test firing she had today. video-1606658560.mp4 I've been told that these guns need approx 4k rounds putting through them to bed them in properly. so far ive put about a thousand rounds through it, since disassembled and checked all the components for uneven wear or signs fo metal shavings. locktited every screw and fitting in the gun as it went backtogether im Not happy with the magazine as it stands, it will definitely need some more work before im happy with it. overall - the daytona kit is an incredibly well made and beautiful piece of engineering. i cannot say yet if the cost of the build is worth it in terms of performance, but the sound of the mechanism makes me giggle like a little girl.. Updates to follow as the build progresses!

Hey everyone Joined up as I used to play many years ago (2009/2010) and moved away from the hobby due to a lot of things happening all at once Been itching to get back to it for a while now, so have dug out all my old gear and plan to get started (hopefully) in the new year

@Robert JamesI will be unable to attend because I need to remain socially distanced. As much as this would be fun, just like xmas, it is too much risk to the welfare of others before vaccination.

So, when my site owner said to get my UKARA number tatooed on my arse it was a wind up? I wish I had known sooner...

Same here. We have to attend three games to keep membership of club. Regards

Good job dude, always heard daytonas described as a labour of love its good to see some proper description of the kind of things need done. That's gonna be a real head turner on the field!

Absolutely and owning a few blank firing rifs myself this is very expensive. I completely agree so retailers my choose to accept some may not. One thing I would add to this is before you pay to join something like the MVT make sure you read through the T&Cs as they may have rules around weapons training and/or the amount of events you have to attend each season. For example the group I’m a member of me all have pli through the group but in order to have membership of the group we have to attend at least 3 events per season to qualify to maintain membership for the following year. In the case of this year it have been a couple of private events and we also run safe weapons training for members that do have rifs with is compulsory in order to gain/maintain membership. However not all groups do this.

Love my osw. Sa58. Always looks menacing on the field ....

Monster! I'm just waiting for HPA to have the Cyber Monday sale. Going to try and pick up a P* Jack to drop into a CM16-SRS for a bit of a sleeper build. You seen the FPS limits at MCG on HPA? 330fps on a 0.2. They do that so joule creepers can't get above 350 but still, can't help but think "chrono with the right weight BB and go for 1J eh". I'm sure a 1J MTW will still destroy most things out there. Beech corner won't know what's hitting it lol

I’m guessing they would still have to buy their guns tho 🧐🙂 The problem you will possibly face @Gorilla316is that some retailers may deny you. Some will accept too, same as here. It’s just based on what they personally accept to cover themselves.... Also for production etc it’s best buying second hand guns than new guns in my opinion as it’s cheaper...

Hi, ALL! 👋 Another weekend I can’t play, my site was booked up! 😞 So did a review on my item, I purchased back at the beginning of the year before the SHTF! 😷 So enjoy it for what it is! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Sorry I'm really new to this. What is MVT?. I'm more than happy to buy a membership to a registered authority. I just don't wanna have to spend money on two-tone guns to just use them three times in order to gain the right to use realistic looking ones. If that makes sense.

It’s like I will only sell to someone who either has a decent profile on the forum (active and who has made comments like yourself in past) or (Has been around for a while who owns guns), A picture or so from a site who they can name and I could contact if needed to.

Exactly my point, the circumstance of the defence is where the selling needs to work on trust. 99% of people have a genuine reason to buy a rif and you can get a feel from someone If they are being suspicious. You could just pay membership to the MVT and then buy one as a reenactor. As with real firearms being above board makes you an easy target for the law and the 1% who flout the rules ruin it for everyone else

But then unless you are an expert in documents or film etc you wouldn’t know. Anyone can get fake documents and give you a load of realistic “facts” about production etc. The same as someone buying a gun with a “ukara”. unless you know someone who can check the database. U are selling your gun based on trust and what you accept as proof. No matter what information you are given it can be faked in some form. 🧐

My view is the VCRA is very unambiguous and ambiguous at the same time. The defences are very clear, the ambiguity creeps in when you apply the defence to your circumstance. If you are a film maker and I was selling you a rif I would ask proof of the production and how you would use them in the production. Otherwise what would stop people starting a production company on companies for £30 or whatever it is and they purchasing all the rifs they want. As it’s been said the vendor needs to do the due diligence as they are in the firing line if they sell to someone who they are unsure of.

It is just a matter of convincing the seller that you have a valid use (as they are the ones risking a fine under the VCRA) Or convincing customs if you are importing Note that being a film student is not a good enough Defence under the VCRA. Student films do not need the viewer to cross their perception of reality, student films are there to demonstrate the student has taken in and applied the techniques of film production

Now that S4 is being filmed, thoughts on season 3? I found it rather odd compared to S1 and 2. Can't explain it, but some episodes weren't really catching my attention.

It's almost like cam man knew about the incoming stock and new revisions isn't it?

Kydex is quite easy to remold a bit, assuming you have the proper supplies. Kydex, when heated, turns to the consistency of a wet towel. The best way to work it is to get a heat gun (not a hair dryer or something like it, but a true heat gun), wrap a bit of tape around the part of the gun that has to fit (Kydex will shrink slightly when cooled, so a bit of extra width with the tape balances it out), heat the area with gentle back-and-forth motions, and when it starts to sag shove the gun in and let it cool. If you don't have access to a heat gun then a stove burner can do, but you have to be careful of burning the kydex and your fingers. Its also a lot less precise than a heat gun. I've remolded several of my kydex holsters; from enlarging a PPK/s holster to fit a PPK, to enlarging a Safariland 226 holster to fit the slightly larger than RS WE226. Keep in mind Kydex can only stretch so far, so if its too large of a modification it may not be possible. Source - my grandfather invented the Kydex holster.

Personally I wouldn't pay anymore then 250 myself.

what made it fun was mostly the frantic nature of the defence, tbh the quality of sportsmanship of the people you're playing with&against tends to have a more pronounced impact on fun than the individual game mode.

【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 Beretta M1934 Italian air force WWII FS 0623 base deep marking, deep 0.3mm custom grip remove paint Handmade black dye detail fix

Yes bearings are quieter - than dry bushings when shimming/spinning "dry" bushings you can get a squeak as you spin (drop a bit of oil/silicone on them to shut them up whilst testing) Once shimmed up - you coat them to bits and slap it all together bearings spin a bit longer on bearings - but any minor drag difference is nothing (compared to strain from spring etc... when in actual use) What some people do in some/certain cases is do a mix of bushings/bearings the most important point is a bushing UNDER THE SPUR as this seems to be a stress point where energy from bevel's 10 teeth to SPUR to sector - right in the middle the strain increases under spur G&G bronze bushings for example wear extremely quick - rool smooth but wear out fucking quick this is known point for G&G bushings to wear to excess and once this becomes great, excessive play will lead to failure at some point... Other bushings will wear - maybe the bevel, sector seems to be quite long lasting (sector rotates the very least of all gears, even though the spring's tension is exterted upon it) It is UNDER THE SPUR that you should or highly recommended to run on bushings even hard as nails super duper ceramic's can fail under the spur gear... I recommend a bushing under the spur on top of spur - you can run a bearing, particularly if shimming room is tight (I've had this on a very chunky 13:1 set, too tight on all bushing spur, but just got away with bearing on top What you do to the other 2 x gears is up to you... Now remember that bearings under the spur & sector can/could impede slightly on the selector plate (on some large chunky bearings with some selector plates - others no issue) So for that reason... Bushing UNDER SPUR & Bushing UNDER SECTOR (as bushings tend to be less raised externally than bearings - but are raised internally more so less shims inside as a general rule on bushings (or slightly more if using bearings) So Bushings under spur & sector (a rough guide is say 0.2mm shim under spur & say 0.25mm under sector) I personally would use a bushing ON TOP of bevel as the pinion is trying to throw the bevel into bushing (me personally a bearing can be trashed if you drive the pinion/bevel heavily into the gearbox casing) As the bevel spins 4.25 ~ 6.25 times to one revolution of sector gear... I have used a bearing UNDER bevel if I was unhappy with sqeaky/tight/loose bushing under bevel (place bushing/bearing onto gear axle and wiggle/check for excessive play) some axles are 2.95mm & others just a whisker over 3mm & certain bearings/bushings may be worn or made to shit tolerances so don't fit sloppy bearings/bushings if you can help it (of course just ignore this bit if you do not suffer with excessive OCD like moi) anyway.... I would fit a bushing under spur & under sector (keep it similar for shimming underneath & selector plate issues) PLUS - also a bushing ON TOP OF BEVEL for durability & if I wind the motor in too far that is 3 out of 6 - the last 3 is up to you and what the situation dictates... a bearing under the bevel is viable - but not maybe if build a stressy snappy build a bearing on top of spur is fine - very little stress there unlike underneath the spur (will help it rotate a tiny bit smoother) a bearing on top of sector is an option, but really the sector rotates once to 4~6 bevel turns (and about 1.75 turns of spur but varies on gear ratio being used, but spins less by comparison) ONE POINT - when using bearings on top of spur/sector... on v3 AK's for example, check to ensure the more protruding bearings do not foul or impede the linkage in use they shouldn't but if using a chunky bearing on a v3, I noticed I needed to smooth AK linage a tiny bit so it glided over the bearing on top of spur gear (very very slight risk of catching, was very close but cleared after a light smoothing of underside of linkage) So EVERY instance is slightly different, the spec of the build, the different ways that SOME cases bearings may snag & other cases, bearings will clear fine as some selectors often have minor recesses to avoid bearings catching (not all are like this) Depends on how chunky the gears are - 13:1's especially SHS's can be fucking chunky I'll use all 6 bushings mostly with the odd bearing if required (chunky spur gear, so on TOP of SPUR) maybe 50/50 mix if a std 18:1 build & say I can find 3 good bearings with little wear/play in original box (in have them to hand - otherwise, fuck it I'll chuck in mostly bushings and be done with it) BUT - it really depends on the box in front of you and what shit fits best plus you go on your gut instinct Bushings are thicker on inside - so slightly less shimming required/available Bearings are usually more exposed externally and in some cases can risk fouling/impeding on selector plate/mechanisms (plus need a bit more shimming internally usually, some might say you have a bit more room flexibility to work with - nah) THERE IS NO RULE BOOK - well not really, bushings are durable but anything shimmed badly will tear itself apart sooner - so it is YOUR CHOICE & attention to detail in the end

Actually there is some method to this madness... I know if I buy a used RIF I'd always prefer having the original box too... it just makes the whole transaction better... now a tatty box may even be a deal breaker for some people... Also, in the world of collectibles especially things like Hot Toys having an original box is all part of the whole experience and actually adds to the value of the item..... Then there is a whole conversation about brown shipper boxes.... I'm not even gonna open that can of worms!!!!

I think this might be my favourite of the bunch, purely because it comes across as genuine disappointment that a ‘hop adjustment key’ is in fact just an allen key. No idea why I find it adorable, but I do.

the f2000 i've found is surprisingly common, i've seen quite a few around, probably the most regular bullpup i'd see. granted when i got mine originally they were rare, to the point i was known at my regular site simply as "f2000 guy". i've seen one intervention get fielded, i suspect the size/weight of it is probably why it plays second fiddle to lighter and handier guns like the vsr given you don't get the equivalent range advantage the real one has to pay for its weight.

From one of the Telegram groups I'm selling my shit in, "Selling CM16 Raider 2.0 G&G, disassembled but working, every single piece has its screws right next to it, all the parts are present and working, if anyone knows how you can rebuild it, I say again it's like new (as in condition). There's also a LiPo battery, a battery charger and G&G bios included. Selling for €140 + postage, final price, no offers" (don't bother doing your own translation as there are some grammar errors that Google will most likely not recognize) Brand spanking new, ASSEMBLED, €150. Probably with free postage as well if bought from retailers like SoftairGames. I fucking love these groups

Airsofters: "Build something other than AR-15s" EMG: "Here you go..." Airsofters: "We didn't mean like that"

Empty box for a tenner? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-G-ARMAMENT-FULL-AIRSOFT-GUN-M4-BOX-CARRY-CASE-CASING-TRAVEL-TOP-FIVE-ENG/324280256265?hash=item4b809c0709:g:5JkAAOSwwgRfTmZ1