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I've started a YouTube channel dedicated to my airsoft stuff. I only intended the footage to be clipped together so my kids could see what I do when I go absent from parenting for the day but thought why not stick them on YouTube so I can be immortalised in history as being a nobody? Link to my channel right here First airsoft video I've ever made. Yeah the camera quality could be better (not moaning at £30 cam though) and yes the editing and transitions should be better (not a Vegas genius) but hopefully you watch/like/sub/enjoy it.

This doesn't seem radically different from UKARA in concept. The "BAC" now have to: Partner with as many airsoft sites as possible, which means reaching out to them and getting hold of their public liability insurance certificates, and Creating profiles for each site to access remotely, so they can affirm that a player was there at a specified date, and Partner with as many airsoft retailers as possible, which means reaching out to them all and, Creating profiles for each retailer to access remotely, so they can affirm a player's BAC details (number and address) are valid, and Persuading airsofters to use the system. They haven't exactly fallen at the first hurdle but they've not really got that many sites registered (as of yet), which defeats the point of being able to play at multiple sites. They have a reasonable number of retailers signed up, but that's not of much use if the players can't find a site to play at. Questions that will be asked: Who are the "BAC"? UKARA is at least an industry-backed body; the BAC lists a staff of two. (Further, why can't the "web development team" set up a proper e-mail address at their actual domain? What's with all the errors in the copy on the website? Why is the last update in the news section from 2018?) Where's the incentive for sites to give up the "guaranteed" business of forcing players to play three games at their site and/or their nifty sideline in selling players guns that they have to use three times at the site before they can keep them? Can we use a BAC number to import a RIF? 99% of the time these "UKARA alternatives" have been cooked up by total chancers as a way to sell guns to people who wouldn't have a hope of qualifying under the UKARA scheme. This one doesn't look as bad as they usually do, but this has a lot more "good idea" than "actually ready" written all over it, especially with so few sites signed up. This isn't a bad idea but a far better solution would be to put pressure on UKARA to update their system, IMO. UKARA is almost universally recognised and accepted, especially by Border Force. There is no compelling reason that UKARA can't create a Practiscore-style system where players can register their attendance at any number of events at any given venue.

I wasn’t talking about you, just a generalisation that was relative 🙂 Me? No I’ve never made anything and sold it to the public 👍

He must say.

Getting there with my WW2 British kit, webbing all Blanco'd green. Just gotta get myself a lid, and decide what patches I'm going to have...

Hi, ALL! 👋 Here’s my first and possible last video for November, going into the 2nd lockdown! 😷 At least it’s only a month, being positive and optimistic! 🔫🤔🤞 So enjoy it for what it is, me having some fun! Also have videos in Media Topic! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Yesterday I discovered BAC, the British Airsoft Club, as their website states it is set up as an alternative to the UKARA scheme. When the question was asked on FB I was all 'wtf?' Turns out to be a form of defence that is building to be in the players favour. Have a look https://britishairsoftclub.com/ My first thoughts on this (and remains so after I scoured the site), is that this is a stellar idea. After all @Tackle has stated finding a site to go back to often enough to get back on to the UKARA database is hard. Not including going back however many times in the year to keep ones 'membership'. BAC are super clear that this is a wip, they are crystal on the VCRA in that they ask for the same time frame as the retailer based system. What are the thoughts here?

Hi I'm looking to start airsoft soon and I'm just wondering where to start? I.e how to get into my first event? Are events still happening? And just general info on the sport? Thankyou and look forward to youre replies. From the Preston area so any tips on good venues near Lancashire would be a good start maybe.

Yeah have a read through here, lots of info, some useful sticky threads with tips. unfortunately sites ‘should’ all be closed, and I cannot help you with local ones as your nowhere near me. But have a read, grab a gun or wait and rent at a site and have a try. My main piece of advice would be to try it and see what works for you, rent a gun at a local site next year when it’s all open and give it a go before you go down the rabbit hole and start spending money.

A spring won't change its spring rate after 24hrs, I have seen air rifles left cocked for years and still put out 95% of their original power 😁 The lost 5% was probably due to the grease turning into earwax over the years! 🤮

is it just me or does it read like they want you to have attended 3 different sites? because whilst i'm pretty well known with at least 2 sites (one of which i dont play at any more) i'd have to actively go out and play a third..... tbh this just seems like another ukaralike setup, tbh i'd rather see the actual ukara system getting used a bit more and being a bit better organised. for a start ukara seems to be the only defence people unfamiliar with airsoft are going to stand a chance of being aware of (for example ups) so any other system is going to need that same recognition before it becomes remotely useful.

after several years, finally had to replace a part on the odin

Just compared a ICS Turbo 3000 neodym with a SHS looking bevel... not quite 90°, maybe 85° (no less) I've seen worse though Cyma bevels with the #1 stamped on them don't mesh true 90° with SHS & others pinions Mind you think G&G pinions are like ICS, not all pinions/motors like certain bevels & just coz the bevel & pinion mesh perfectly at 90° - does not guarantee smooth as silk meshing (it will assist a good solid transfer of energy but not a 101% guarantee of smooth as silk rolling if it's rough as shit) he could try the ics bevel at least - which would be a start to initial pinion/bevel guessing or get the fuses & try the shs motor with shs gears/bevel which "should" mesh nicely or better (but unsure if bevels shim exactly the same as ICS one) I'd avoid dropping fuses (for now, well I'd avoid recommending this or even mentioning it on the side of caution/safety) and in hindsight I'd advise to always keep a fuse in there (even though I don't in some of my stuff but it's my risk & know the draw & wiring condition plus my risk as said) as OP doesn't know how heavy the drain is & likely blowing 25a fuses - then the load needs to brought down & fuse kept in there avoid the urge to bypass the fuse or bodge it - as strong as the urge might seem many on here have a test meter to gauge what current the gun is pulling so we can check the draw on auto etc... ourselves the OP doesn't have this so he should keep the fuses as they are blowing for a good & valid reason I don't think I have an ICS bevel to hand to compare how bevels are cut to ICS ones but bevels can vary not just in angle but how high/low they are cut meaning one bevel might need 0.1mm shim on top & others 0.5mm etc... so almost impossible or incorrect to assume another gear set - particularly a bevel will shim up the same see here for differences - though extreme, some bevels are cut very very differently & thus shimming will vary... (look at that fucker in the center how high them teeth are cut)

#MeToo , kept trying different sites, only to be disappointed, so I'd be fecked if I was gonna give them more of my hard earned just to prove I'm a bonafide airsofter. The BAC thing is definitely a good alternative (on paper), but needs more sites to show their endorsement of it, I wonder how many sites aren't doing so merely because of their ties with retailers, as well as onsite shops. UKARA is a borderline case for the monopolies commission ?, yes there are other defenses but they're not widely recognised & accepted.

I am very impressed with it. It's tight enough in places to get the intensity but the middle more open part is so well placed to not make it easy to pass from one end to the other. With the numbers currenlty due to covid as well it feels empty even when everyone is in game. I think it could probably push up to about 10 per side before it started to peak it's numbers.

Didn't ICS use a different (i.e. not 'TM' Compatible) engagement angle on the bevel and pinion gears for their older models? I seem to remember stories of mulched gears if both were not replaced at the same time. Personally, I'd put the whole ICS set back in, and return it to 'stock' (spring included). If your FPS is low, check things such as air seal, hop up unit (the ICS plastic ones are brittle and can crack), and consider replacing your hop up bucking and nub. The stock motor in both my ICS guns are pretty decent on a 7.4v LiPo. I was a naughty boy and removed the fuses when rewiring them to Deans. Gained 1-2 RPS doing that alone.

I get a lot of PMs asking about some of my experiences with my somewhat esoteric rifles. The person who Pmed me bemoaned the fact that the could barely find anything about the rifle in his message. It's such a shame however in response, you type out a large number of words that get's fairly in-depth, gets read and then... nothing for over 10 days. Despite the user being online, reading the PM more then once (The time stamp updates every time it is read) and posting since... nothing. A thanks really does go a long way. Why bother doing it when someone else comes calling otherwise? I'll get off my nelly high horsie and back into my pink fluffy house now.

1 - yes you did shim them, the same as the original set and rarely do gears all shim up the same 2 - the 16:1 set is 17.25:1 compared to 18:1 set is 18.65:1 aprox in reality next to fuck all difference really The spring was likely a SP110 = M120 and the ICS 3000/Turbo was likely a bit tired worn brushes/dirty commutator etc.... but depending on motor could have just needed a clean up & new brushes (they are actually not that bad stock motors - even the black ferrite magnet ones) and if you had silver magnets then even better stronger, but likely the ferrite if it stalled & blew fuse My main guess is that the new bevel was slightly different and required the motor adjusting I'll guess the different bevel was cut & shimmed a bit closer to the ICS pinion on motor which increased the amp draw as the motor was trying to press the bevel into the gearbox casing thus the amperage rose and with added strain of spring, tired motor, and tight bevel-pinion it struggled & stalled upon locking up with a higher stress - it blew the fuse fairly quickly Did this old ICS not have the Anti reversal latch release on the forward assist button ??? (they have tended to cease this feature but as yours is a bit older it should have had this) if it did you can/could use this to assist in unlocking a stalled box The fuse is either 20a, 25a or 30a - 20a is a bit low, 25a likely & if it was a 30a fuse then it really was straining if it blew I would obtain some 25a & 30a fuses they could be the mini type (2.8mm connectors like on motor) & 30a is max in mini auto fuses or the regular type with large spade connectors - but don't go above 30a fuse if 30a fuses keep blowing then that box is straining way too much mini & regular automotive type blade fuses... in tight spaces they may often use the mini type fuses in larger battery spaces they may use the more regular sized ones or they might use the glass type but often blade fuses are used in decent mid-range guns (still a lottery if mini or regular sized blade fuses though) mini/micro 2 go up to 30a max and you should not need any higher if 30a fuses keep blowing you have really got problems Once you got fuses, replace and lower the motor height a little, up to say 1 full turn (counter clockwise) WRITE DOWN WHAT YOU DID, how many turns you backed off etc... so you can reset it to original if this does not help, you can briefly try the new motor, which will help but if the bevel is shimmed too tight well then the draw/strain will still exist - just the more powerful motor will force it through so to speak That sort of gun say M105 350fps even on 16:1 should draw 11~12 amps as it cycles on auto however a rule of thumb is to double this to 25a or 30a on fuse lamer guns might have a 20a fuse - usually a 25a is fairly common BUT on initial firing from stationary the draw is very very briefly 80amps or more once firing on auto it drops to say 10a rising briefly as spring tension increases the releases giving an average draw of say 12a What happened in your case likely tightly shimmed bevel to pinion/motor height with a stronger spring struggling to cycle on semi, stalled at 80% so that when you tried to clear it the motor was struggling to pull the extra spring/bevel tension probably stalling at 100amp or so and blew the 25a fuse almost straight away Now the shimming "might" not be too bad if you are lucky, a half turn counter clockwise might work you "could" replace the ICS bevel and in "theory" it should pair up OK still (remember to return the height back to original position) The SHS motor "should" pull most things - even on lockup or high pre-cock position BUT if the load strain is high things will still run warm with higher amps generating more heat (and draining battery quicker etc...) As said you "could" try the ICS bevel with ICS motor - which in theory be shimmed OK (assuming everything went back 101% as before) and the ICS bevel "should" be compatible-ish with the spur/sector of the SHS 16:1 set Then if you try the SHS motor then all this could change again coz different gears & motors shim up differently Another thing - are you sure all them gears shimmed up nicely ??? coz SHS gears are a bit chunky and often need less shims than std gears they replace I've had the spur/middle/step gear so tight I ended up with no shim on top and had to use a bearing than a bushing as there next to no room left to shim the spur (you will almost certainly need a shim on top bevel 0.1 to 0.3mm, but some gears are quite thick) just saying they is a bit more to shimming than just slapping the gears in - even like for like shimming and often you change gears - bevel & pinion/motors especially then stuff can get thrown out a bit If stuff is shimmed too tight then the load increases, amps rise, gun struggles & fuses blow and as long as this reply is already - shimming is a bit of an art to perfect and even then doesn't always go to plan - with crappy sounding gears & higher than expected amp draw Get some fuses, try the motor height a smidge you change the motor... split the box pull the motor out set fire to auto, pull back the Anti reversal latch forward assist dooberry... see how the gears spin freely - they should still spin a bit everything is released if OK - carry on swapping motor but be prepared to adjust motor height on a different motor Regarding the motor height screw adjustment.... If your ICS has a tiny tiny grub screw (and likely a tiny disc, hopefully installed correctly) then the thread of the tiny grub screw is very fine - so you may be able to adjust it say 1.5 turns either way If you have a larger screw (flat head or larger 4mm allen key) then thread is larger so 1 full turn on a larger screw of 1mm pitch thread is like 1.25 turns on a 0.75mm thread suffice to say shifting motor height 1mm is not always going to 1 full turn on every gun as the motor height thread/pitch can/does vary from gun to gun normally if you are lucky and shimming/motor height was set perfectly then it would only need a very fine tweak 1/2 turn either way to get perfect sweet spot on less shrill/draw (much more than that, then the initial setting was a little less precise that originally expected) So you should not go absolutely nutz winding motor in & out hence make note where you started from so you can set it back roughly to it I'd say the shimming is a bit out on a tired motor that stalled & blew the fuse the bevel "might" be a little tight to pinion perhaps and also check the gears can spin with box in two halves, receiver open, motor out & AR/Forward assist arm pushed forward There are few things to try - but get fuses if all else fails - chuck the ICS bevel or the whole set back in there really isn't much difference in 16 & 18:1's anyway and if it is running shit the little tiny gain will be lost as it struggles to cycle get it so it doesn't blow fuses, drop in the SHS motor ensure it runs/sounds sweet if it doesn't blow fuses then chuck on deans.... (you'll get same - maybe better performance from deans over tamiya than 16:1 vs 18:1 imho) BUT GET SOMEBODY WHO CAN SOLDER TO DO IT (cut one wire on battery at a time FFS, OK you using nimah but avoid shorts & LiPo really goes boom) hope some of this shit helps to get your gun going again even if you chuck the ICS gears back in - it is no biggy if 16:1 is causing you grief

I'm enjoying the process of making the mistakes and seeing what fits and what doesn't. I find it helps for when things fail if you know how it all works. I wouldn't have sold the SSP as it was. The dodgy safety and rattly build would have just disappointed someone else, I think mine was just a friday afternoon British Leyland jobbie. I must admit that I've hovered over a couple of his guns that are available for sale but at the end of the day I know I will find it far more satisfying to have something that I've pieced together myself. The Elite BBU and Nozzle arrived today, the weight difference is suprising! Thread lock is currently setting before it can be installed.

Yeah, been open about a month or 2 and is 15 mins away from me. Owned by a top bunch who have the well established Skirmish woodland nearby. I've found with a lot of time on my hands recently, YouTube content helped me while away the days, if I can provide even a distraction from boredom I'm super happy. If you do ever head over please do give me a shout, would love to accompany and play shoulder to shoulder with a fellow forum buddy.

Ok. So. In short, I've been developing something since April and I believe it's nearly at the stage where I can roll out public tests. I call this thing the MOSQUITO: So what is it? It is a body kit designed to turn AK AEG internals (V3 gearbox, hop up, selector parts, and grip) into one of the smallest, lightest, and most practical AEGs to date. It was originally modeled on the PP19 KEDR. However, adapting for airsoft made it took quite a spin, so it has now become its own thing. It combines the compactness of a V3 gearbox with regular MP5 magazines which are widely available. With a length of 563mm and a weight of 1.4kg fully set up (prototype, final may vary), it is even shorter, lighter, and compact than an ASG Scorpion EVO. Just recently finished making a working prototype of a "MP5K style" folding stock which, when folded, reduces the length down to approx 340mm: I plan on rolling these out commercially but I will need to do a few alpha/beta test runs before I can confidently do that. And that is why I am asking for potential testers. I need people with an AEG AK (specifically AK) to test this product out and give in depth feedback. I will spit out some hardware requirements: A V3 gearbox of an AK variant (Front wired is ideal. A short rear wired one will not work as it needs to stretch out the front. See above photos for guide) AK selector parts AK hop up unit An inner barrel of maximum length 130mm No external mosfet. Almost nothing will fit under the top cover. You may be able to lengthen the wire and mosfet outside the gun to fit inside a peq box but no guarantees. A gate picoAAB may fit inside but also no guarantees. In-gearbox mosfets are ideal like ones made by titan, perun, or jefftron. MP5 mags if you intend to game with it. I will only be supplying one. As you can see, for such a small gun, there will be quite a lot of restrictions. However, I can say that it worked wonderfully during a game day on the 9th. Here is a test I did turning a skirmish on the 9th: What I need to do now is to perfect the selector switch, make a small peq battery box for it, and possibly a rail for optics. I should lastly say that there will be a cost if you want to participate. It will be £70 which covers the cost of stainless steel parts that are used to hold it together, as well as a roll of filament for my use. So for less than a WE GBB pistol, you get an entire kit. The final price will likely be a lot higher (>150). I will be conducting this test in a discord server. So if you are interested, send me a PM with your discord tag and I will send you an invite to it. I should also mention that there will be only 5 testers during this first test. I need to test the waters to see what I can handle. There will be future runs. Thanks for reading.

DMR 🤔 Drum Mag Rifle???

@VeniVidiVici - We can change, just give us another chance! You'll see! 😭

Yes. All day long. And it's FUCKING AWESOME!!! I followed option number two and it was responsible for some of the most enjoyable games ever. Some will call me a heretic for saying 350 rounds in a mag is the way forward. But all I say is - it levels the playing field. It's just the same as a high cap. And if you have an mws set up as a DMR, firing .36s, with a drum mag? The grin will literally never leave your face. In fact, I'm smiling now. 😁

@VeniVidiVici you cannot go.

On a whim at 17.35 on the 2nd I placed a pre order with scan for a 3070 and blow me down its out for delivery tomoz, that was unexpected

Don't you just love it when you make an offer for an item and they ignore it. A simple no thanks would suffice!!

Go Titan battery, Double (at least) the capacity over the lipo's

We few at UK-JTF are recruiting new team members over the winter with a view to attend MilSim events in the new year. We are a friendly bunch, who appreciate teamwork to achieve objectives and domination of the field. To apply, DM me your full Discord UserID, and I will invite you to apply/interview Here are the rules for Applying for UK-JTF. If requirements are not met you WILL be removed. Should you fail the interview first time command will speak with each other and possibly grant you a second interview should you want it. Rules are as following: 1. You must be 16 or up to apply for a standard rank but to become an officer you must atleast have a min of 2 years Airsofting with evidence and being 18+. 2. During the interviews you must be able to portray Tactical understanding and an ability for working as a team due to the fact we are very milsim based. We will be fairly critical with the applications. 3. Be prepared to answer a set amount of questions during the interview from either selected officers or NCO’s within the team. 4. Once the application has been vetted and Confirmed you will be expected to either supply us with video evidence of your gameplay so we can get a rough feel for your play style or you get into a game with command in order to be assessed and then moved over to a select team that we deem fit. (See # 6) 5. We are a localised team within the Beds and Herts region crossing over to Buckinghamshire. If you are outside of that area and cannot provide any form of evidence as to how you play or you cannot get to an assessment you will remain within the server should your application be accepted and you will be put on a probation period to provide evidence leaving you with a 3 month deadline. If this is not met your application will be suspended and you will be removed from the server till further notice. 6. Once you have completed all online interviews before you are allocated a team you will be required to atleast play one game with command at special ops HQ the jungle in Milton Keynes not only as a part of assessment but to see where you will be placed within the team dependant on how you fit in with the rest of them. We pride ourselves on being able to remain as professional yet laid back, we can’t allow any issues to slip through. 

i'd go for 300, you could get the 364 but then you'd have to either chop it (a hassle and can ruin the barrel) or cover it with a suppressor or such. tbh in the short term i wouldn't bother changing the barrel just yet, as a general rule the other factors (ammo weight/quality, hop, good air seal, good energy for the site limit etc) have much more influence than the barrel does so you're better off pursuing them first.

Looks like a good place. Unfortunately too far for me to go 😟

For anyone in the future looking to have their account deleted: PM me and I'll do it within 30 days.

Any sites similar to Fatbobs where you can just tick a box to say you're using this gun for airsoft?