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Decided to go black today (much like my soul) , from the top ; bump helmet. wileyX sabre glasses. black mandrake half & half mask. plain black UBAC’s (MC one to be bought after payday !). multicam black PC (with 6 recoil mids on the rig / 3xmags for the AEP/Alpha tec 6 shot grenade/radio on the back) mecanix gloves . cobra buckle belt on MC black trousers . 5.11 Exo knee pads . with kydex holster for the USP . Bates leather and cordura side zip boots . primary ; TM EBB 416D. secondary ; Cyma AEP USP.

Range tested my vsr after a little tinker... hitting a man at 100m... happy as a pig in shit with that

Never had light striking on the Dynatex ones but I've had creeping timers on them. I believe they say not to put silicone in them because they can mess up the fuse time, but if the choice is between light strikes and the fuse time shortening then I'd be putting some silicone spray in it too.

You need a barrel extension. Only a small one.

Amber Filter

Bunch of parts from @ak2m4 These are for my MG36 build. Where there is a X2, means one of them is going to my ARX160 which already has upgrade parts ready to go in, just need the last pieces of the puzzle. SHS (RA) G36 Cylinder Head Aluminium Acetech AceMOS Plus Mosfet X2 SLD High Torque Motor 22TPA (Short) SHS (RA) Stainless steel Cylinder (4/5Hole) X2 ZCI Piston head (8 Vent Aluminium) SLD 14 Tooth Piston (Lightweight) ZCI Gear Set (Advanced) 16:1

In no way am I insulting your kit but I got the most satisfaction from your Goonies patch

bought mine about 6 years ago 2nd hand. It turns ,never had any issue. I've never really needed to do any maintenance on it. Spray a little silicone in see if it helps.

Might not help overly with your issues but I found this while searching for someone other than SWAT that had serviced their own BFG's First, how to get in to them. The metal top of the grenade is press fitted into the plastic body. To remove the top, warm the upper half of the grenade with a very hot hair dryer for a few minutes or place the grenade in a warm oven (100c). Once the plastic is warm it is a lot more flexible. Remove the cap where you stick the blank and instead of a blank inset a long bolt so that the shaft of the bolt passes through the hole in the cap. Screw the blank housing back into the top of the grenade and use the protruding long bolt shaft to lever out the entire top of the grenade from the warmed up plastic shell. You will only be able to get the top off if the plastic shell is hot, if it’s cold it won’t come out and you risk damaging the grenade. Once the top is off the internal mechanism is very simple. The issue with mine was dirt under the upper (smaller) O-ring. This O-Ring acts as a one way valve to help you prime the grenade, any dirt under it will let air back through in effect keeping the valve open and the grenade will fire prematurely. I recommend removing and cleaning both O-rings and then apply a very small amount of silicone grease to them. You only want a very, very small amount of grease as any excess grease will attract dirt and dust and could lead to more problems in the future. You will also find a small allen head grub screw in the nylon shuttle. You can use this screw to adjust the timing of your grenade. Screw it in (clockwise) to increase the delay and turn it anti-clockwise to decrease the delay. Reassemble the grenade by again warming up the plastic body and gently tap the top back into the body. If the body is warm enough it doesn’t require much effort to get the top back in. Source link - how to service them Tagging people I know have them just so its in one place rather thank over numerous threads.. @proffrink @Druid799 @Rogerborg @FreeFrag.UK

Havent had chance to tune and shoot it yet but first impressions: I have never handled an airsoft weapon of this quality. When they call it a "training weapon" they werent kidding. I am very impressed at how compatible the parts are for these things. Ive chucked a bunch of aftermarket parts on as you can see, which confirmed for me almost everything is compatible with Milspec, AEG, and GBBR parts which is handy for anyone moving over to HPA that previously owned an M4/AR based gun. I am very glad wolverine made their rail system M-LOK over keymod. looks a feels 100 times nicer. I was lost for words at how light this thing was despite it being 90% full metal. I could give this to a young teenager and they would be able to sport this all day without a problem. Definitely lighter than my G&G Scar-L. Aesthetically and Ergonomically I cant find a single fault with the base gun bar two things. The only issues I faced was the split receiver (these things break down exactly like real AR's) was abit wobbly. Fortunately I had a spare G&P magic pin which resolved this issue right away. I havent seen many people speak about this issue on the forum so i could have been unlucky. But either way, if you find the same issues, its less than a tenner to amend. Secondly, my after market stock (AEG) was very wobbly when fitting. This was to be expected as ive heard many people mention this on the Wolverine Owners group on facebook. Easiest solution in the world: couple strips of electrical tape either side & the top of the buffer tube (where it would be hidden under the stock), slid the stock back ona nd no wobble at all. You'd never know the tape was there by sight also. My only suggestion to wolverine would be to have some kind of sling mount added to the stock gun or at least have it as a option in their "gun builder" on their site or high pressure airsoft's site. I had to find a mil spec AR sling mount end plate on ebay so i can use my single point sling.