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My current budget helmet setup! Helmet: Ops Core Maritime in foliage green and sprayed ARC rails (FMA Repro) Counterweight pouch: TNVC Mohawk MK2 Strobe: Core Survival HEL-STAR 6 (FMA Repro) Light: Princeton Tec Charge MPLS (Night Evolution Repro) Light mount: Princeton Tec ABR mount Headset: 3M Peltor Comtac III (Z Tactical Repro) NOD Setup Pulsar Challenger 1x20 Gen 1, with J arm and Rhino Video of the NODs in pitch black indoor conditions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUpmRGqL3KM

“New” for £180 or actually new for £130ish https://www.rainbow8.com/products/tokyo-marui-hi-capa-5-1-gold-match-gbb-pistol

So I am going to try a belt setup running a couple of hi caps. Our games tend to last 45minutes to an hour, and so have opportunity to reload between. Figured I would go light with a belt and couple of hicaps, pistol and spare bbs. If it works for me, will get a better belt set (inner and outer)

Might not help overly with your issues but I found this while searching for someone other than SWAT that had serviced their own BFG's First, how to get in to them. The metal top of the grenade is press fitted into the plastic body. To remove the top, warm the upper half of the grenade with a very hot hair dryer for a few minutes or place the grenade in a warm oven (100c). Once the plastic is warm it is a lot more flexible. Remove the cap where you stick the blank and instead of a blank inset a long bolt so that the shaft of the bolt passes through the hole in the cap. Screw the blank housing back into the top of the grenade and use the protruding long bolt shaft to lever out the entire top of the grenade from the warmed up plastic shell. You will only be able to get the top off if the plastic shell is hot, if it’s cold it won’t come out and you risk damaging the grenade. Once the top is off the internal mechanism is very simple. The issue with mine was dirt under the upper (smaller) O-ring. This O-Ring acts as a one way valve to help you prime the grenade, any dirt under it will let air back through in effect keeping the valve open and the grenade will fire prematurely. I recommend removing and cleaning both O-rings and then apply a very small amount of silicone grease to them. You only want a very, very small amount of grease as any excess grease will attract dirt and dust and could lead to more problems in the future. You will also find a small allen head grub screw in the nylon shuttle. You can use this screw to adjust the timing of your grenade. Screw it in (clockwise) to increase the delay and turn it anti-clockwise to decrease the delay. Reassemble the grenade by again warming up the plastic body and gently tap the top back into the body. If the body is warm enough it doesn’t require much effort to get the top back in. Source link - how to service them Tagging people I know have them just so its in one place rather thank over numerous threads.. @proffrink @Druid799 @Rogerborg @FreeFrag.UK

If you don't put a tracer unit inside that front end so it shoots frikkin lazer beams, then you need to have a word with yourself

The FRV belt is well worth the money! Wish the outer belt had a touch more rigidity, but it's pretty much perfect.

no problems what so every simple & easy solid fit

Never had light striking on the Dynatex ones but I've had creeping timers on them. I believe they say not to put silicone in them because they can mess up the fuse time, but if the choice is between light strikes and the fuse time shortening then I'd be putting some silicone spray in it too.

It is not an upgrade though if it is something that is required to fix an inherent flaw. If there is a problem with the manufacturing that means the Evo has a high rate of gear failure then ASG should be replacing the weak area for free as the original product is not fit for purpose. No one should have to spend more money just to make their gun work the same as it is meant to originally.

As advised in the Evo Owner's Group, contact JD today. They'll replace it or repair it under warranty. Just make sure that you were using the recommended power of battery, or it could invalidate your warranty. Almost every Evo suffers from weak gears, but once upgraded, they're fantastic and reliable. My gen.1 first batch Evo shat its gearbox a few months into ownership. I had it repaired by Landwarrior, but paid to have it upgraded at the same time and I've had no issues with it since and that was years ago. Best AEG I've ever owned in 10 years, Marui's included.

bought mine about 6 years ago 2nd hand. It turns ,never had any issue. I've never really needed to do any maintenance on it. Spray a little silicone in see if it helps.

T1 is a JJ airsoft, It's very good if not the best T1 replica I've had. The mount is a KAC replica, I cannot remember what make sorry but it has full trademarks is solid. That whole upper is for sale if intrested, pm me. Yes the Eotech is a real EXPS-2.

So after 5 or 6 skirmishes, i have decided to strip the gun back and go for a lighter loadout (going to try a belt rig) and gun. So sort of inspired by the LVOA, this is my Predator as it is now.

New toy! 🙂

Imagine getting that order wrong with him in a vest with a machine gun!! I would be scared to ask how many shots he wants of coffee!

When you have school at 1pm but terrorists to fight at 2pm

Ladies and gentlemen, the one and only, MWS! Finally she came. Somehow all the stuff came within one week. I took modify tan bucking and SG nub (Many thanks to Dave as he was super fast in communication and delivering the product!). Only four extra mags so far but two more will come shortly. As for the barrel at last I decided to take 410mm 6.01 crazy jet. It is the longest one they had at local store. It would stick out of the flashider so I will have to hide it into the silencer. However I want to build a DMR so I am seriously thinking about getting even longer one...like 500mm plus prommy. Once I get a chrono I will let you know about stock vs. upgraded fps and accuracy. Oh and I almost forgot. I bought her some food and that would be .49g novritsch BBs. I have never had anything that heavy so I am curious how it will perform.

NOD's are the way...dogging is so much easier for me now.

usual place military 1st

The current state of my primary collection All internals are pretty heavily modified/upgraded Top to bottom: GBBR - WE SCAR L: Kinetic Development MREX handguard (PTS Repro) GBBR - WE MK18 Block 3 URGI: Geissele MK16 rail (Angry Gun Repro), RA Tech tightbore, Maple leaf hop-up parts, Poseidon Zero 1 nozzle, Real Steel BCM Gunfighter charging handle AEG - Custom AR: VFC gearbox shell, E&C receiver and barrel, everything else from spare parts box/bought from random sites GBBR - WE M4 SBR: (by far the most expensive build) Real steel BCM gunfighter pistol grip, real steel Noveske marked Vltor MUR1 upper receiver, Angry Gun CNC Noveske lower receiver, Iron airsoft URX 3.1 10.5" handguard, Angry Gun steel outer barrel, RA Tech tightbore, Maple leaf hop-up parts, RA Tech steel trigger group, Angry Gun Steel Bolt Carrier, Real Steel Colt fire selector, Daniel Defense receiver castle nut GBB - WE MP7: shitbox gun that doesn't work. Light striking hammer - tried replacing everything, still doesn't work. Maybe getting a KWA in the future.

Yea I can't believe how stupid I was to book the 14th as I had this in the back of my head. Yea I was hoping it was anything but the gears. I put the mil spec spring and ball bearing spring guide in and ran it on 11.1v only so that's not an issue as thats what is required. It does say it recommends minimum weight of 0.25g but it has the same issue dry firing as well as with my asg blaster 0.20gs. Was it just ultimate gears you had added? Check out the box it arrived in

Just arrived but doesn't work