Cameron364

The 'What have you just bought' Thread

7746 posts in this topic

Actually I'll give you 10% desperation and another 5% mates rates off my AK-74M - the one that's in my siggy pic. It's in the Classifieds forum...

Very tempted but think the wife would charge me 50% divorce tax if I spend anymore on toys this month. Surprised no one has bought it yet.
PT247 and Ian_Gere like this

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New Retro Arms Fire Selector for my SMP.

 

20150429_212246_zpsos5ttdod.jpg

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Speararms/TWI suppressor for KWA/KSC vz61

KWA/KSC vz61 long 40 round magazine

 

This little beast is fast becoming my gun of choice for 90% of games. Time to bling it up a little :D

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Just bought my first gun :) managed to find a pts rm4 cqb in stock at lwa. Had to go two tone but only stock and hand guard so can upgrade/swap out later. Had to get it before ukara as they seem rather hard to find :(

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you won't regret buying an ERG mate, awesome guns!

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Qlimax, where did you get that stock please mate?

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today my "WE pistol release valve type A"'s arrived from milspec... instantly 200% better then the KJW ones in the KJW mags. i now get around the same number of shots out of them as the original mag in my WE barry burton :D

 

i also received a TrustFire P05 600Lumen CREE XPG-R5 LED Tactical Gun Light Pistol Handgun Torch which is nice .. except it takes a CR2 battery ... and i have none of them :angry:

 

Edit :- just went to my local airsoft retailer to look at a TM MEU ... walked out with a dynatex BFG, SMG sized hard case (for my pistols), and a can of green gas

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375mm 6.01 PDI barrel for my GHK G5, combined with the high-flow nozzle the extra 145mm length and the drop from 6.20 to 6.01 in diameter should drop the psi required for each shot considerably to get 350fps :)

 

edit: also 8000 Airsoft Surgeon RWA ABS Precision Grade 0.30g BBs

WOWZERS, no idea how straight it is shooting but it is now firing at 500fps on gas mags! Should def allow me to run a lower pressure on my HPA set up! :-)

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my newest toy

Very jealous. Really want one but can't justify the cost to the other half -.-'

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My wallet is in pain...

 

A&K M4 Upgrades

------------------------

 

Firestorm mosfet (Installed last night)

ASG Ultimate M110 Spring

11.1v 1300mAh Battery

 

AGM L96 Upgrades

-------------------------

Steel cylinder head

Stainless Steel cylinder (Import from Atlanta Airsoft!)

VSR Spring guide and Piston

M150 spring

 

 

Other stuff

-----------------

Various nuts and bolts set

Viper Modular GPS Radio Pouch

EJY X400 UV Protection Outdoor Goggles

YTM Airsoft Adjustable Maritime Helmet ABS

 

This weekend i'm looking at these for the team:

5 Pack BaoFeng BF-888S Long Range

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Tippmann M4, air bottle, remote line, 6k bbs with an agalite assault pack to follow next week.

sp00n, Monty, Sitting Duck and 2 others like this

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My wallet is in pain...

 

A&K M4 Upgrades

------------------------

 

Firestorm mosfet (Installed last night)

 

 

+1 for the dinky little fet - £10 delivered with built in fuse etc.....

actually +2 - seems bloody good under stress tests

good bit of wire supplied - fancy box

 

highly recommend them - if anybody needs a cheap good fet ready to go you won't go wrong with them

even build your own 3034 would cost ya say £5 with getting bits n bobs & wire, so for a tenner - good call m8

 

I just ordered up some more deans & bits for my own fet's but the firestorm fet I am well pleased with

it is non-AB fet but tbh most of time AB is not needed for most builds unless you are really going nutz

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+1 for the dinky little fet - £10 delivered with built in fuse etc.....

actually +2 - seems bloody good under stress tests

good bit of wire supplied - fancy box

 

highly recommend them - if anybody needs a cheap good fet ready to go you won't go wrong with them

even build your own 3034 would cost ya say £5 with getting bits n bobs & wire, so for a tenner - good call m8

 

I just ordered up some more deans & bits for my own fet's but the firestorm fet I am well pleased with

it is non-AB fet but tbh most of time AB is not needed for most builds unless you are really going nutz

 

This is just it. It's going in a CQB version which will be my primary and after some testing fires, it's lovely!

 

When i eventually get another project, it'll be a full Mosfet with a programmable burst on the semi, but until then this is A) Cheap and B) perfect for starting out.

 

The wires themselves are about 19 gauge i think so i would deffinately look to beef them up to 18 or 16 later.

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my newest toy

 

Im also a bit jelly. Keep lookin at shot guns........

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The wires themselves are about 19 gauge i think so i would deffinately look to beef them up to 18 or 16 later.

 

Thought they were a bit thicker sure it said 16awg on wire supplied - you can't always go by the outer thickness - it is the actual wire itself

or Conductive Surface Area malarky that counts......

switch wire was very thin - but I actually use a tiny bit thinner twin ptfe wire for trigger/switch signal wire

 

cheap silver wire that fits in almost any gun:

 

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/2-meter-wire-with-low-resistance-ipower?from=listing&campaign-id=14

(cheaper 2m length seems the same)

 

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/1-8-meter-wire-with-low-resistance?from=listing&campaign-id=14

(1.8m but same sort of stuff)

 

They are a good price for decent wire for most builds - thinner but stiffer insulation than fatty 16awg silicone turnigy wire

much cheaper than buying the Modify brand over here - well next time anybody does a TWG order

easier to fit in tight v2 boxes than silicone, especially where motor is

v3 boxes wire is external so you can run thicker stuff outside the box

 

Always deans, solder the "bends" of motor connectors - they can blow like a fuse when bent on M4's so I "carefully" dab solder on the elbow/bends

(dab of solder inside/outside of bend - hold connector upwards to avoid solder running down motor connector end though)

These are the 2 points where you encounter the most resistance & drop in "juice efficiency" (check connectors are tight fit on motor of course)

 

Ultra thick as possible wire is great but them connectors - the connector bends on M4's are so weak, plus not easy to solder wires direct to motor on M4's

Run thicker wire with the least amount of joins/breaks as possible - any joins must be as solid as possible or more loss from resistance in joins

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^^I would always recommend soldering the motor connections - a soldered joint is always lower resistance than a spade connector, even when the spade connector is tightened on with a squeeze from pliers.

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^^I would always recommend soldering the motor connections - a soldered joint is always lower resistance than a spade connector, even when the spade connector is tightened on with a squeeze from pliers.

 

101% agree if you are happy with setup/motor - solder is best but depends on ya gun/box

 

V3 - nice n easy to do/remove - did solder motor on AK12, can always remove frame/motor option to work on box

 

V2 - bit more of git to do - so soldered the connectors with extra solder on bends on recent DSG FH

(or would have to keep desolder/resolder motor to work on box)

Some guy did solder a v2 motor and had bananna type plug/socket in pistol grip

but space could get tight for motor in there plus it's another join

Hence did the connectors still - ensured tight fit on motor & extra solder on 90 degree bends - damn V2's

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i have just received a "Tactical Flashlight Q5 LED Light Bulb Foregrip Rail Aluminum Outdoor Heavy Duty" its weighty, not heavy, and nice and bright ... just wish the on/off button was a pressure pad not a clicky on/off/strobe button.

 

​also received the CR2 batteries and charger from amazon .. that was very interesting, managed to get guaranteed by 1pm next day delivery ... for free :D (no i am not a prime customer)

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101% agree if you are happy with setup/motor - solder is best but depends on ya gun/box

 

V3 - nice n easy to do/remove - did solder motor on AK12, can always remove frame/motor option to work on box

 

V2 - bit more of git to do - so soldered the connectors with extra solder on bends on recent DSG FH

(or would have to keep desolder/resolder motor to work on box)

Some guy did solder a v2 motor and had bananna type plug/socket in pistol grip

but space could get tight for motor in there plus it's another join

Hence did the connectors still - ensured tight fit on motor & extra solder on 90 degree bends - damn V2's

The way I would do it (if I was into M4's which I'm not :lol:) is to not bother curving the wire round in the same way it does when you have a spade connector on the end, but rather to cut the wire so it goes straight down to the motor terminals and solder them 'upside down' if you see what i mean.

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They are a bit of a bollock ache v2's

 

There are a couple of ways to route the wires in box and in grip

most go for the standard wire each side in box but if using much thicker wire and 2 x fet wire's say on a rear wired box

it can get a bit cramped by motor, so options are widen box at rear and run both motor wires down back, only fet wires go across motor entry in box

 

G&G default is to run two seperate wires out of both sides of box, then run both at back of grip rather than either side of motor

 

The DSG I ran both at back of box, both at back of grip, one laid low on negative terminal of motor, then positive ran the long way round motor on top of negative

Reason being there is a blank or plate on bottom of grip motor plate preventing a shorter direct route - could cut a groove but routed it as was allowed....

It did actually lay quite well - was pleased coz thought it would never fit in on such thicker wire - but it did go in there quite easily in the end - well reasonably easy

 

Still a bollock ache all the same, luckily there are a few options but yes you can solder on a v2 but is regarded as more of pain to remove & service box

where as v3's remove frame/motor cage, and you got access to box - even solder/desolder the switch wires without needing to open box

fitting a fet on a v3 & upgrade wire can all be done without opening the box - though as we know it don't hurt to crack it open and aoe,seals,grease to ensure she is fet & juice ready......

 

Yes only worked on a few v3's but I do like them as being a bit more user friendly to work on especially electrical wise & test purposes with motor cage on and test away

deffo an improvement on the older v2's in my humble opinion.

 

But that don't mean I prefer AK's over the Fords of Airsoft - M4's

(I ain't joining the dark side just yet but admit they got a better build/layout)

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Just picked up a DPCU shirt (AUSCAM) for the start of my Australian loadout. Currently waiting to see if I can get some DPCU trousers from a fleebay seller in Australia as even with postage it works out cheaper then any other alternative I have seen so far. :unsure:

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My custom Moonman patch arrived from Stitch Me Up earlier this week. Just got my hands on it today. Love it!

 

A1KUxAn.jpg

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I'm going to get a patch that says " Cramped Bed Ted". I'll leave the image upto your imaginations :lol: :lol:

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