Gepard

Changing out the handguard on a CM16 Mod 0

39 posts in this topic

So I've had this gun for a while now and want to change things up a bit. It's front wired so the battery is stored in the handguard. 

 

I'd like to swap the magpul style handguard for a rail system but need a place for the battery to go

 

I'm no techie, so rewiring is not an option for me. I've heard that you can buy PEQ boxes and store the batteries in there, but haven't looked into it. 

 

What are my options?

 

 

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Yep, I have a scruffy one going for free :)

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14 hours ago, Gepard said:

So I've had this gun for a while now and want to change things up a bit. It's front wired so the battery is stored in the handguard. 

 

I'd like to swap the magpul style handguard for a rail system but need a place for the battery to go

 

I'm no techie, so rewiring is not an option for me. I've heard that you can buy PEQ boxes and store the batteries in there, but haven't looked into it. 

 

What are my options?

 

 

 

If by "Magpul style" you mean an MOE clone, then the battery can stay put. Plenty of space in there!

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How would a PEQ box work? I assume it's just a compartment to store the battery but what types does it take?

 

What about the wiring? As you can see from this photo it extends into the handguard itself so I'm wondering how I can manage the cables. 

 

g-and-g-cm16-mod0-combat-machine-black-4.thumb.jpg.26437391b990416213e0846340c69d97.jpg

 

On top of that from the little information I could find on this topic the actual handguard is shorter than that on the market. Would I be able to move the gas block closer to the receiver? 

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On 1/8/2018 at 4:37 PM, Gepard said:

How would a PEQ box work? I assume it's just a compartment to store the battery but what types does it take?

 

What about the wiring? As you can see from this photo it extends into the handguard itself so I'm wondering how I can manage the cables. 

 

g-and-g-cm16-mod0-combat-machine-black-4.thumb.jpg.26437391b990416213e0846340c69d97.jpg

 

On top of that from the little information I could find on this topic the actual handguard is shorter than that on the market. Would I be able to move the gas block closer to the receiver? 

 

Right, first off I thought you were replacing a railed handguard with a Magpul style one so apologies for that!

 

Anyway, you can route the cables out through one of the holes in the handguard and into the back of the PEQ battery box (they usually have a little hole at the back so as to not be obvious. They usually hold something like a 1200mAh square type battery (LiPo that is) but some come with an extension that will allow longer batteries. The trick would be to pick the right model of PEQ for your battery - a PEQ15 will hold a small square battery but a PEQ2 will hold a longer NiMh style one eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airsoft-Wargame-Tactical-D-Boys-Battery/dp/B00RN0KP2S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HRJE1PZDM5W4KM4B332A

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23 minutes ago, Lozart said:

The pictures on this show the extension and the hole in the back for wiring https://www.amazon.co.uk/FMA-Airsoft-Dummy-Battery-Mounting/dp/B015D1DGLK/ref=cts_sp_1_vtp

 

That's great, thanks. I see how it works now. 

 

Do you have any handguards you would recommend? Preferably a RIS Rail. I think I might need to move the shroud and gas block as the handguard looks like it's a little longer than carbine length but I'm sure I can figure it out. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Gepard said:

 

That's great, thanks. I see how it works now. 

 

Do you have any handguards you would recommend? Preferably a RIS Rail. I think I might need to move the shroud and gas block as the handguard looks like it's a little longer than carbine length but I'm sure I can figure it out. 

 

 

 

Depends on what style you want. If the original guard is more than 7" then the drop in RIS units won't fit (and you'll probably need an end cap too). Measure up the length you need and decide what style you like - RIS/RAS/Keymod/M-Lok - and go from there.

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10 hours ago, Lozart said:

 

Depends on what style you want. If the original guard is more than 7" then the drop in RIS units won't fit (and you'll probably need an end cap too). Measure up the length you need and decide what style you like - RIS/RAS/Keymod/M-Lok - and go from there.

 

I just took apart the reciever and had a little nosey around whilst I was at it and my gun doesn't have any threads for a rail system and I don't know how to take off the gas block. God I'm such a noob. 

 

Am I missing something obvious here? I don't think I've ever opened it up before so this is all new to me. 

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18 minutes ago, Gepard said:

 

I just took apart the reciever and had a little nosey around whilst I was at it and my gun doesn't have any threads for a rail system and I don't know how to take off the gas block. God I'm such a noob. 

 

Am I missing something obvious here? I don't think I've ever opened it up before so this is all new to me. 

 

The thread for attaching a rail is under the delta nut (the bit you pull back to release the current handguard). You'll need a pin spanner or an armourers wrench to get it off.

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To get the delta off with out a wrench or AR tool you can (once the A sight + cap is removed) use the larger of the two halfs of a handguard to undo it. Just use it as a wrench by putting it back on the teeth of the ring, keep it straight as if mounted and turn. Works for me :)

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I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks chaps. Any suggestions for the gas block? I had a look online but the pins are different to the other CM16s. 

 

Gave it a few taps with a hammer and a small screwdriver just to be sure but no such luck. The pins didn't budge.

 

edit: I measured the length of G&Gs handguard and have come to the conclusion that is is rifle length and not carbine length. 

 

I will need to move the gas block and end cap closer to the receiver in order to fit a carbine length handguard. 

 

I never knew replacing a handguard could get so complicated! 

 

 

 

 

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You'll have to hit the pins quite hard from left to right if the gas block is pinned in the normal manner. There's normally a grubscrew under where the sling loop would go, two pins holding it straight on the barrel and sometimes another pin locking the gas tube in position too.

 

Make sure you support and rest the block and barrel on something to stop it moving when you hit it. Previously I've used a bit of mdf to hammer against as it's soft and will catch the pins if over punched.

 

The trouble that may occur moving the A-sight gas block is that the barrel often has two grooves milled out for the pins to slip across and keep the A-sight level and aligned. If you move it back and forth there won't be any grooves to pin and the A-sight will flip round the barrel at will. It may be possible to secure it with just the grub screw but if it takes a knock it'll move, potentially bending the gas tube with it. It's not an issue with a low profile gas block + floating handguard but if you're keeping the A-sight + cap then it's something to consider.

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Are you sure the gas block will move.  I thought those on the CM16 were moulded in, so cannot be removed.

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The CM16 Mod 0 handguard is about 1/4" shorter than a rifle length one. If moving the gas block is proving to be an issue, you could change the outer barrel completely for not a lot of cash (CYMA M4A1 barrels are only around £12 online) which would then free you up to use whatever handguard you like!

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1 hour ago, Lozart said:

The CM16 Mod 0 handguard is about 1/4" shorter than a rifle length one. If moving the gas block is proving to be an issue, you could change the outer barrel completely for not a lot of cash (CYMA M4A1 barrels are only around £12 online) which would then free you up to use whatever handguard you like!

 

Ah! That simplifies things. Are there any websites with this pricing you'd recommend buying from? My usuals are almost double the price! 

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22 minutes ago, Gepard said:

 

Ah! That simplifies things. Are there any websites with this pricing you'd recommend buying from? My usuals are almost double the price! 

 

Seems my costing may be a bit out of date - sorry.

 

Best bet is to have a look on AliExpress or ebay, plenty of chinese manufacturers making them.

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1 hour ago, Lozart said:

 

Seems my costing may be a bit out of date - sorry.

 

Best bet is to have a look on AliExpress or ebay, plenty of chinese manufacturers making them.

 

It's the 10.5" outer barrel with the 4" extension you're referring to right? 

 

Also, removing the barrel itself seems to be causing a bit of a problem for me. 

20180111_175716.jpg

 

The delta seems to be a different design to what @Immortalis referring to. I didn't need any tools to remove it.

 

20180111_180326.thumb.jpg.d061b10dc9184f3e8c0172da3651e5d4.jpg

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Have a look on fleabay, couple of outer barrels for sale on their with RIS rails cheapish. Well was last time I looked.

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21 minutes ago, Immortal said:

Hmmm.. that doesn't look like a normal Delta ring. Must be CYMAs own take on it.

 

That's what I thought. I don't know why G&G didn't go with a universal one. Sorry about the picture quality. I can take some more if it helps.

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11 minutes ago, Gepard said:

 

That's what I thought. I don't know why G&G didn't go with a universal one. Sorry about the picture quality. I can take some more if it helps.

 

Ooops, sorry I saw the CM in the name and assumed it was a CYMA :blink: LOL.. it's a G&G. :D Sorry!

 

I don't think a clearer photo will make a difference to me really, it looks very different. Yours has dismantled to 3 parts rather than 4 and it normally comes off in one piece. The 4th missing piece is a large C clip that holds it all together. Also the toothed nut in your photo looks more like a toothed washer. I can see it's not what I was expecting to see. ;)

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I've been researching this topic for a couple hours now and still can't find a way to remove the barrel. There isn't any information that I can find for this specific model of CM16. Any suggestions? 

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Okay, I've got the part of the delta ring that screws off now. I used the handguard as leverage. The barrel now detaches.

 

As for the gas block, I knocked out the two pins but it still won't budge. How do I remove the grubscrew you referred to, @Immortal? Is there a way to do it without specific tools?

 

20180112_012626.thumb.jpg.88432975f00f3fff8815772071d38ec0.jpg

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