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M4/AR15 Stocks


AshOnSnow
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I had a similar issue on a stock, I could get it on and off by pulling the adjuster lock tab the opposite way to that which it was supposed to go. The extra leverage pulled the pin down far enough to get it on and off, and it meant I couldn’t take it off accidentally. Then I bought a UBR :)

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13 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

I had a similar issue on a stock, I could get it on and off by pulling the adjuster lock tab the opposite way to that which it was supposed to go. The extra leverage pulled the pin down far enough to get it on and off, and it meant I couldn’t take it off accidentally. Then I bought a UBR :)

Yeah my crane stock did that, but the lever doesn’t go the other way on this one.

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31 minutes ago, AshOnSnow said:

Yeah my crane stock did that, but the lever doesn’t go the other way on this one.

 

I just remembered how I did it on mine! I used a pair of long nosed pliers between the cheek pad and the pin to force it down lower! You should be able to get it on that way.

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1 hour ago, Lozart said:

 

I just remembered how I did it on mine! I used a pair of long nosed pliers between the cheek pad and the pin to force it down lower! You should be able to get it on that way.

Yeah I tried all that. I put about 60lbs of force down on those pins and they wouldn’t budge past halfway.

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Just got a new (to me) M4 running an external battery in a bag, thinking of changing to a full stock to make things neater and was what I had in my last M4 and I liked it.

 

Does anyone know the approximate max dimensions of battery you can fit in a full stock? As I already have a bunch of RC car lipos in various sizes

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19 hours ago, AshOnSnow said:

If I did that, it wouldn't latch on to any stop positions and it would just sliding all over the place.

The pin in your stock goes into the circle bits so it wouldn't just slide all over the place. From what I can tell the only reason the stock isn't going on is the back most bit of your stock doesn't provide enough clearance. To remove the material and keep the rear most locking bit you should file it down until it's level with the top bit of the circles.

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Is the buffer tube one that came with the stock or are you fitting it to an existing buffer tube? If it didn't come as a pair then is it possbile you have a combo of either an airsoft buffer tube and a real steel sized stock or visa versa hence the incompatibility? Or just another minor design difference & incompatibility... Just a thought, I may be talking rubbish....

 

I think you said earlier but I may be wrong (again) but the stock has two pins right? The locking position pin and one in front of it you lower to slip it on the tube? And that's the one that stops it coming off when you move it to another position?

 

The only other thing I could think is to try and pop the parts of the stock apart and see if you can access & open up the area where you want the pin to travel. Or remove the pin altogether and just rely on the position pin to keep the stock on... like a crane stock or similar.

 

Would you realistically move the stocks position often during a game or just set it at the start & play? The only time I access the stocks position on mine is to swap a battery so being able to slide it straight off isn't necessarily a bad thing IMHO. Mine is deliberately locked in a position with a screw so I can't move it.

 

 

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@AshOnSnow One of my stocks wouldn't fit onto the buffer tube because of that exact problem so what I did was file down the end of the buffer tube to accommodate the added length of the pin.

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9 minutes ago, Immortal said:

Is the buffer tube one that came with the stock or are you fitting it to an existing buffer tube? If it didn't come as a pair then is it possbile you have a combo of either an airsoft buffer tube and a real steel sized stock or visa versa hence the incompatibility? Or just another minor design difference & incompatibility... Just a thought, I may be talking rubbish....

 

I think you said earlier but I may be wrong (again) but the stock has two pins right? The locking position pin and one in front of it you lower to slip it on the tube? And that's the one that stops it coming off when you move it to another position?

 

The only other thing I could think is to try and pop the parts of the stock apart and see if you can access & open up the area where you want the pin to travel. Or remove the pin altogether and just rely on the position pin to keep the stock on... like a crane stock or similar.

 

Would you realistically move the stocks position often during a game or just set it at the start & play? The only time I access the stocks position on mine is to swap a battery so being able to slide it straight off isn't necessarily a bad thing IMHO. Mine is deliberately locked in a position with a screw so I can't move it.

 

 

I do move the stock around a fair bit while playing - especially when the site I usually play at has mixes of indoor and outdoor. I probably move the stock position 7 or 8 times during a game, so if I file the rear stop off the buffer tube, every time I shift to full length position, I run a serious risk of pulling it completely off.

 

I have managed to fix the stock by filing down the stop ever so slightly, but still clear above the position plugs. Unfortunately it means I’ve had to modify my £220 AEG just to fit a £15 Stock.

 

No, the stock only has 1 pin. 

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2 hours ago, Gepard said:

@AshOnSnow One of my stocks wouldn't fit onto the buffer tube because of that exact problem so what I did was file down the end of the buffer tube to accommodate the added length of the pin.

Done exactly just that. A bit peed off that I had to, because of what was essentially a defective stock, but it’s done now.

 

The storage is completely pointless since it won’t fit any batteries, nor will it even fit an Allen key needed to remove the buttplate. It might, if I push really hard, fit a Fudge bar. Definitely going to swap for a CTR first chance I get.

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