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Sig 556 problems - AGAIN.


LazzurusMan
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So after I last worked on my sig everything ran fine. No issues, nothing. Then after three hours of play, she just stopped firing.

 

Ive opened up the gearbox anx found that my piston head had completely broken away from the piston, and the part the screw goes into had been chewed to hell.

Clearly a polymer piston was a bad choice for this build. Anybody got any advice on a full metal piston and head to use on a high rof build?

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One of these is pretty much the go to option. Good luck finding one though.

https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-reinforced-upgrade-pom-piston-set

 

Edit:

Not full metal but is made from a reinforced polymer. Keeps it light so your rof doesn't drop like it would with a metal piston.

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Are there any with all metal teeth? Id started ro strip the piston before the screw hole decided to shatter.

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2 hours ago, LazzurusMan said:

Are there any with all metal teeth? Id started ro strip the piston before the screw hole decided to shatter.

https://airlab.parts/collections/gearbox-parts/products/lonex-extreme-toughness-polycarbonate-piston-10-steel-teeth

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Thank you. Looks like Ill be picking up a new piston and pom head on Thursday l.

 

Side note, anyone got any tips/thoughts on swiss cheesing? Is it really worth it?

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1 hour ago, Hangtight said:

What piston did you kill, and what ROF/spring /stroke are you using?

Rof want checked, but I was using the stock spring and gears. I also realised that I never locktighted the piston head screw or metal rack. Learn from my mistakes I suppose.

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You might loose a couple of grams with a moderate Swiss cheese job, but you loose 3 by ditching the bearing and replacing it with a nylon spacer. If you do Swiss cheese on a full metal rack piston then the rack needs to be epoxied in place. Don't interfere with the rails as it's easy to create points that can hang up and jam in the gearbox case. Don't compromise strength in the lower part of the piston either side of the rack.

Loctite is your friend... ;)

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Just seen on another thread that your running ASG 30K stock gearing and 11.1v lipo. Don't bother Swiss cheesing the piston. You'll be getting around 22rps which is no where near PE. Neither do you need a full metal rack at that ROF on an M100 spring. If you're starting too strip the plastic teeth on the rack then something else is wrong.

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I know I need to correct aoe when I instal the new piston...is there anything else that could be causing/cause damage to the teeth?

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Would this be good enough? https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/shs-15-steel-teeth-poly-carb-aeg-piston-purple

Ive read that theyre pretty durable, and if I remember to do everything properly shouldnt break. Its also only a 30 minute ride to firesupport for me.

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So the new parts are installed, and shes firing again. Solid 23 rps.

 

However, after using a rubber washer to adjust aoe, Ive lost 60fps, down to 270. 

Would adding a new spring bring me back up to 330? Is it even needed?

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Could it be my hop is set ro high? Had to adjust it when I last played, havent chnaged it back

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If you had the hop adjusted up enough that you've lost 60fps then the only thing you'd be shooting at is low flying aircraft.

I take it you checked the air seal at all points of assembly? How thick was the answer you used?

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The answer I used? And I checked air seal in the gearbox, it was fine. Will take the barrel out and check my bucking and the seal on the hop unit. Probably just needs some silicone lube.

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Was just a cheap rubber washer thick enough to push the piston back to the right point. It wasnt large enough to cover the whole of the cylinder head, could that little bit of space be enough to reduce air going through the cylinder head and give a 60fps drop? And id saycit was about 5mill thick. Ill check tomorrow when I pick my gear up from our "team shed".

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5mm is a bit thick, but not too bad. I don't correct more than 4mm. If you were undervolumed before then if there was a lot of space around the AOE washer then that might drop a few fps, but not 60. What length barrel and what cylinder type? And if the cylinder is ported, have you put it back in the right way around?

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Not ported, stock cylinder. Long is about all I know for the barrel. I did have to replace the spring guide, apparently this one compresses the spring slightly, if that would have any effect? I am thinking maybe my bucking needs adjusting or my nozel isnt sat right.

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Do you know how to check the nozzle /hop air seal with a small piece of paper?

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Yeah, ill be doing that when I pick up the gun later today.

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Hop/nozzle seal. Took the barrel out and use silicone spray on hop rubber and re seated it. Now down to 230.

 

Somethings not right.

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