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About RabidNinja64

  • Rank
    AF-UK Regular
  • Birthday 11/24/95

Profile Information

  • Guns
    PJ4 CASV
    CYMA CM.077
    VFC MP7A1
    HK3 Px4
  • Loadouts
    MTP/Coyote Loadout
  • Sites
    Fireball Squadron
  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Destroying the opposing team.

Recent Profile Visitors

4624 profile views
  1. I value it down to usage, current RRP value and availability; nobodies going to buy a heavily used second hand CM16 at full price, or even half if they're lucky. Also depends how much you're willing to part with. In your case, weapons that have been skirmished once and 2 months old? you're sitting on at least 700-800 their on their Retail value in total; most people would kill to get a vector at around the 300-350 mark, and a little lower for the 416C, especially in their near unused conditions.
  2. That heart stopping moment when your M4 reciever pin flies off in the safe zone while your disassembling...

  3. Anyone know where I can get MLOK parts? 

    1. ak2m4


      What MLOK parts do you actually need?  Whole rail or just accessories?

    2. RabidNinja64
    3. ak2m4


      got some mlok nsr rails coming in a few days

  4. I was just thinking about how me and my brother would love to start going international with airsofting, and then Australia came to mind and their harsh but understandable weapons laws. This is pretty awesome news considering. Just means ill be wearing less gear to accomodate the heat
  5. Got my birthday on a black friday this year ;D Think i'll treat myself to a new gun for the next game on the 2nd, Anyone recommend an AK for around £200? 

    1. warlord


      CYMA CM.045C Just got one from gunfire.pl with 4 mags came in at £190

    2. Robert James

      Robert James

      Its also my Birthday on the 24th! Happy birthday for then!

  6. Quick techie question concerning GoPro hero session's from peoples personal experience; anyone got recommendations for Micro SDcards?

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Robert James

      Robert James

      Iv'e had SanDisk and Samsung in all of my cameras. The only reason I use SanDisk over Samsung is when I have to use a gopro as it cant take anything over 32gb 



    3. Gepard


      +1 for SanDisk. I use this card in my camera and it works fine.

    4. Skara


      Using SanDisk in my hero 3+ silver, never had a problem.

      They work and they're relatively inexpensive.

  7. Here we go again! 2 years out of the sport and im mentally preparing myself for tomorrow xD

  8. So after spending a year or so out of the sport, i've dipped my toe back in the pool of gaining more scars and welts With the title in question, i'm curious to see what needs to be upgraded/swapped out in order for my m4 to be "redesigned" as an LMG platform; FPS is out of the question for me, as i'm hitting roughly 330 on a 7.4 lipo CURRENTLY ; Problem is that im unsure and can't find any information concerning stock specs about my rifle as i believe the motor to be high torque, as well as an m100 spring to stay under the 350 limit at my local field. What would be some recommended internal upgrades to it to increase ROF without setting anything on fire? Would a mosfet be the most ideal? and will I need to upgrade my gearset? May even go for a 6.03 tightbore for better accuracy later down the line.
  9. Can anyone suggest internal upgrades for turning an M4 into an LMG platform? Using the A&K CASV, and im unsure if it's got a high torque motor, or if i need to upgrade my gearset or install a mosfet?

    1. Show previous comments  10 more
    2. AshOnSnow



    3. AshOnSnow


      (coming from someone who's used full auto maybe 3 times in the last year)

    4. matas17


      @AshOnSnow because you can only hear piston hitting cylinder head and not so much of the gears whiny noise, i always shim my guns to best of my ability, even my KWA RM4 recoil gun is shimmed perfectly only hear piston hitting the cylinder head and ofc the recoil shock.

  10. Ugh im so sh*tty with words today Firstly, thank you for the in-depth and CORRECT definition of Continuity; last time I listen to my brother and his "electrical knowledge" and c+p wiki quotes in a rush. I should've mentioned that I first checked the continuity of the gun, just as you explained, and did get low resistance readings. THEN I checked voltage of the battery and got back the standard 7.4 volts (Though it was somewhere around 8. something IIRC), but, again, in my hazy rush for tech support, I got the 2 muddled up.
  11. No worries guys, just found the issue; My solder connections on the rifles connector are VERY VERY finnicky and were'nt connected properly. They've got heatshrink on them, so the damage isn't visible, but the cause is that my wires are a little too long, and seeing as it's rear-wired and I have short arms, I tend to keep my stock adjusted one notch out, so the connector cables are bended inwards, battery or not. Will get round to fixing it ASAP, but AshOnSnow, you are my savior.
  12. Apologies, I do mean 20C Damn typos! Referred to the site I bought it from (For technical info). http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric/pj4-casv-black-p-j I believe we went with the battery based on the fact my brother had a slightly more powerful one, and have a spare 11.1 that I daren't use for the sake of my internals. It's a G&P 1000mAH, so a generic and cheap one, but has worked with this gun on many other games previously. Regardless of the charge, I've tested the other batteries with my gun and my backup, and the backup works fine no problem, the gun is practically dead. not firing, as if there's no battery inside, even when connected. " In electronics, a continuity test is the checking of an electric circuit to see if current flows (that it is in fact a complete circuit)." - Used a Voltmeter for this, got my readings and ensured that the battery was giving out 8 volts. Battery was tested in another gun, works fine. A slight issue did occur, however, as my second continuity test (on auto), I slipped and shorted the battery while still connected, making a slight spark. I don't run anything like a MOSFET, the gun is as stock the day she was purchased, but if the motor isn't dead, im almost certain it is now.
  13. Just some quick clarification; My Rifle is the PJ4 CASV The gun was working prior to being put in storage. Battery was fully discharged then charged (1.0 Amp 2C LiPo) Initial "test", the motor had a very faint whirring prior to troubleshooting - Problem found? Tested voltage & continuity; Came back at 8.34 volts, with continuity dropping from a 1.34 to a .8 instantly (For you sparkies in here) My brother is suggesting that it's something to do with the selector plate, as when I purchased the weapon, it had an issue with constantly firing when on auto, when the trigger was pulled, did unlock it, however and had no problems since, until now. Regardless, I'm a bit of a noob at the technical stuff for AEG's.
  14. Dug out my M4 after a year of not using it, charged battery and doesn't fire? Argh balls :(

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. RabidNinja64


      Haven't really opened it that far to check. bit of a noob in AEG repairs. Will check tomorrow though

    3. AshOnSnow


      Not much of a repair - where the battery connects, just make sure one of the wires hasn't popped out of the little plug on the gun


    4. RabidNinja64


      Ohh you mean the soldered connectors? Yeah they're fine. Even tested the battery in another gun and it works, so it's definitely somet to do with the gun itself.

  15. Thanks for all the input guys really appreciated. Oh, and when i say naturally, i mean it was meningitis as a baby, meaning her left arm is the only mobile one. Saying that, im tempted to get her to do some form of a furiosa loadout from mad max; arm included xD Regardless,a sling and hi-cap mags are a necessity as a learning curve in her situation. An MP5 sounds the most viable as it means she can tag along with me sneaking about ^.^