Hangtight

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Hangtight last won the day on September 5

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About Hangtight

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    AF-UK Veteran

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  • Guns
    L96 Uber Sniper
    M4 Frankentwins
    AK Bullpup Scratch built
    Spiteful DSG M4 pistol
    TM G3 SG1
  • Loadouts
    Surplus Shabby Chic Fusion...
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    Combat South Woodland
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  1. Old metal garage doors are quick and easy to throw together into compounds and improvised buildings. Old industrial racking is sturdy enough to climb on as long as it's securely fixed to the ground. Simply hammering stakes well into the ground at each leg will be fine and allow you to screw the frame together solidly and level. Old pallets are easy to get hold of and easy to screw together in a variety of configurations. Bit of paint and a couple of cheap camo nets. As for digging trenches, is amazing what a few determined mates armed with shovels can do in a couple of weekends. You don't need to go too deep as any spoil can be used to create ramparts to hide behind.
  2. The MB 03 isn't nearly all plastic. The bolt, bolt carrier, outer and inner barrel are all metal.
  3. On the 11.1 it'll still have a nice snappy trigger response and a short cycle time. With 7.4v then 13:1 gears with the 22TPA is nice. About the same cycle time and current draw with the benefit of a quieter gear train. Either of these combinations would be very nice with a Mosfet that supports pre cocking, but I'm not sure if anything is available to fit the M14.
  4. The lonex motors have notoriously soft brushes which wear very quickly, hence the carbon buildup up on the motor. From memory the A2 is a 16 or 17TPA motor, so on standard gears and 11.1v that's going to be drawing a lot of current pulling a 130 spring, especially if the shimming is a bit tight because it'll be trying to do around 27rps. You'd be a lot better off with a 22TPA motor, like a ZCI High Torque. The current draw will be lower, less heat, less stress on the gearbox and battery, plus it's arguably a better motor than the Lonex.
  5. ASG Blaster 0.2g are white, but the 0.25g have a slight green tinge to them. Certainly enough that you can spot rogue 0.2g BBs in a bottle of 0.25's.
  6. All of which can be fixed, if you have the patience, tools and the skills to use them. Failing that, super glue, duct tape, Gripfill and cable ties. Go for the ghetto look...
  7. Theta nothing wrong with the stock barrel. Barrels are the last things to 'upgrade'. The only time you might notice a slight improvement is once everything else is top notch, or if the original barrel is dire.
  8. I know it is... Built quite a few.
  9. That's not how it works. 350fps WITH 0.2g is the limit. Change the spring. End of, no arguments.
  10. If you're building an LMG then are you intending to use a lot of sustained full auto fire? And what do you consider a high ROF? If you just want a decent ROF then go 16TPA motor, 13:1 gears and 11.1v lipo. This will also need a lightened piston (just take the bearing out) and an M110 or 120 spring to avoid premature engagement and a piston short stroke to bring the FPS back down. The reduced cylinder volume means you'll need a shorter barrel. A tight bore won't do anything for the accuracy. A decent quality barrel will help a fraction, but accuracy comes from the hop up and the quality of your ammunition. For it to survive the AOE and shimming together with the rest of the assembly will need to be very good. A high quality gearbox shell with modifications for longevity will be a good idea. 16awg wiring and Deans connectors will be required to handle the sustained current draw. Mosfets aren't great at switching high currents for prolonged periods, although the Firestorm units are rated for a continuous 50A. Give it a try, but you might need to consider fitting a high current micro switch s fitted to support weapons like the M249. For magazines your choice is to either build your own, the Krytac box mag for their M4 LMG, or a 900 round 'fat mag' but for sustained fire you really want a battery winding mag. Having done this before, even if you've got good tech and fabrication skills, it's a lot easier to just buy a support weapon.
  11. Beware the Prowin. Often the cause of more problems than it ever solves.
  12. Get yourself some 70 durometer urethane sheet for nubs. I used to use the hard blue eraser, but the urethane is better. ICS orange pistons are good for reducing spring 'twang' as they're a really good fit to the spring diameter. You can also put a hard nylon sleeve on the spring guide to match the ID of the spring. After that you're onto using some of the spring 'tar' greases sometimes used in spring air rifles to damp vibration in the spring, but these slow the cycle time too much. Increasing piston weight is easy. You can simply take the bearing off the guide and add it to to the one already inside the piston, or use washers of the same thickness so you maintain the spring compression. The kits are way overpriced. You can find hardware that'll do the same job, sometimes better for pence.
  13. If you're looking for maximum efficiency when firing heavy BBs then a heavier piston is more effective than a lighter one, and may even allow you to use a lighter spring. But it's not a good idea in a full auto gun as the increased piston weight slows the cycle time, possibly to the point where the piston hasn't finished its stroke before the sector gear comes around again. It's wasted with lighter BBs and will give the gearbox a harder time.
  14. Best way to lessen the motor and gear whine is to move to a 16TPA motor, 13:1 gears and 7.4v. The lower pinion speed along with correct pinion /bevel mesh will help. A shorter barrel will be needed for a DMR as you'll never get decent efficiency from the available air volume when using heavier BBs. Heavier BBs can also slightly reduce the piston velocity which lasts the 'thump'. But if you've got it to the point where it's inaudible outside your MED then there's not much point doing more.
  15. If you want great semi auto trigger response with basic internals then consider a BTC Chimera and use the pre cocking. Set it to pre cock at the semi auto selector position and single shot without pre cocking at full auto so you can release the spring compression. But for a kicking DMR set up in V3 gearbox, 7.4v, 22TPA motor and 13:1 gears with the Chimera. That'll pull a 130 spring with ease. Add a nice heavy piston and you're golden.