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Hangtight last won the day on December 18 2017

Hangtight had the most liked content!

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About Hangtight

  • Rank
    AF-UK Addict

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  • Guns
    L96 Uber Sniper
    M4 Frankentwins
    AK Bullpup Scratch built
    Spiteful DSG M4 pistol
    TM G3 SG1
  • Loadouts
    Surplus Shabby Chic Fusion...
  • Sites
    Combat South Woodland
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  1. Read the instructions, watch the videos. The only thing they don't tell you is that the trigger will try and jump out of place as you're trying to bring the gearbox halves together, and if it does and you're unlucky it can either unseat the top board from the pins or potentially damage the optical trigger sensors. I get round the issue by using a pair of sturdy self grip tweezers to hold the trigger in place until the shell halves are together, at which point you can simply pull the tweezers clear.
  2. Well, some of them do... What else adds to the confusion... Oh yeah! Most AEGs use a particular thread for the barrel nut, or at least something close enough that the barrel nut will generally wind on. But there's a few manufacturers who use the same 'real steel' thread that's often used on GBBRs.
  3. Make: Any Gun/Model: AK steel receiver Desired Condition: Intact receiver and barrel. Missing stock, gearbox grip etc not a problem Desired FPS: Any /none Swaps/Part Exchange: No Budget: As little as possible!
  4. Most bog standard V2 internals will fit in V2 receivers. You may find that you need to shim the rear of the gearbox to the receiver to stop it tipping nose up when tightening the buffer tube screw, but that goes even on parts from the same manufacturer. Gearbox internals can be bit more problematic.
  5. It won't make a whole lot of difference unless there is a much larger problem you should address first. it's unlikely to do any damage unless you use half a roll of the stuff and then try and force things together.
  6. The hop and barrel don't need to move freely. They just need to be pushed firmly against the front of the gearbox. An O ring slipped over the barrel is often more effective than that pathetic little spring. But in this case we're taking about using tape inside the hop unit so it doesn't extend outside the hop unit. Just wrapping the front of the hop where the barrel emerges would be completely pointless.
  7. Use dental floss to actually compress the hop rubber onto the barrel rather than just trying to cram some ptfe tape onto it and hoping it helps the seal. Neater, more effective and stays in place if you need to go pull the barrel and rubber out of the hop up. A couple of extra fps won't make any difference to the range. Use decent, heavier BBs and make sure the hop can lift them effectively before shoving them down a nice, clean barrel. 0.28g BBs will be the best, most cost effective upgrade you ever make.
  8. The dental floss actually compresses the hop rubber onto the barrel to form a seal. The tape just jams in there in the hope that it'll squish down and form a seal. Where the ptfe tape is useful is if the outer barrel is a sloppy fit into the receiver.
  9. http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/54-l96-rifles/25905-cheapskate-l96-tuning.html
  10. I take it you're using the pre cocking function? Love my Titans.
  11. Got a Dremel? They're not difficult to port yourself.
  12. Seriously though, just get yourself a good, basic AEG and go have some fun while you're putting together a decent BASR.
  13. SHS Nozzles with the chamfer around the end seal fine.
  14. For me it's not just the guns. There's the chrono, the tools, parts, spares, the bits you saw on ebay or dhgate, materials, batteries, software, more tools, prototypes.... But most of all, the time. Unfortunately the job that pays for the fun bits is the thing that doesn't leave you enough time to enjoy the fun bits...
  15. Don't get hung up on a long barrel. Anything over about 200mm and it makes absolutely no difference to the range or accuracy. In fact barrels the length you want will be too long for the available cylinder volume when using heavy BBs.