Jump to content

Iceni

Members
  • Posts

    1,118
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Iceni

  1. Lonex hop unit, No idea about them. The stock plastic units are fine. Maple leaf hop rubber - I can't comment on that either. We have 350fps and cold weather here in the UK. So soft 50deg rubbers are generally more our thing. I'd run the stock rubber and hop unit till it breaks. https://www.evike.com/products/31081/ ASG mags - No issues there. You can get the MAG 170rnd ones from Evike. There my absolute favourite AUG mag. Good capacity, no winding, no rattle. If you can afford it then I would always recommend those mags. Equally the King Arms and ASG 110rnd mags are good options as well if you hate rattle. https://www.evike.com/products/31490/ Matrix spring - no idea, It's not a branding we see over here. Madbull Python 6.03 - Avoid Avoid Avoid. The barrel is too wide for an AUG's inner sleeve and will bind up causing all sorts of issues. The ZCI ones are spot on if you can find them. All of my AUGs use them. The other brands I have no idea about as the ZCI's have always been on point. https://www.evike.com/products/11878/ ASG AUG - It's an ASG sportline by the looks. Identical to the JG but with the added trades. Metal bushing, Basic motor, QC spring. Absolutely solid as a basic gun or upgrade gun. The JG may or may not have a QC spring depending on how old the stock is. With the ASG one having it in the description I would go that way. I wouldn't upgrade anything for the first few games on it. Get a feel for it first and work out what you need to do. If you go with the big batteries I've linked lower down be aware that the inline fuse may have difficulties as you can see a lot of current draw. So It may be worth adding some bigger fuses to the order. Or have a plan to bypass the fuse if it starts to glow. I'd run it on a 7.4v big lipo. 2200mAh. I Know I can fit a battery 103.6 x 34 x 15.5mm into mine no trouble. 101.1 x 35.5 x 16.1mm also fit and work. You may have to modify the bottom of the gearbox plate to remove a plastic part that sticks out (2 mins with a dremel). I would also convert to deans as mini tamiya connectors are crap. I'll link a battery that will work, but 20/40c is pretty low for these. Giant power over here do a 35/70c 5c charge model that is my preferred battery. If you are wanting 11.1v then you need to speak to someone else as I don't own any - It may also be worth talking to your local gamers as you may need 11.1v for your power levels. https://www.evike.com/products/47743/ Motor is not something I can't advise on. Nor gears, As you run different power levels, So what I know won't translate to what you need. For UK power levels 350 fps, I tend to find AUG's will run hot on standard spring configurations if you get the seals right. I think mine are running cut M110's but it's been a while since I had them open.
  2. There's a 150KW charger location a couple of miles away at the Esso on Hinkley road. I think it's like 3.6 miles from the range with an Asda, Tesco, McDonalds, And a huge Home Bargains within walking distance (the Home Bargains used to be a toysrus and it's insane). Charger is located at CV2 2QN by the Esso garage. It's a good location to jump on the A46 to bypass Coventry traffic as well. There's also a HFT/FT circuit at the Greyhound. With the shots running into the woods and about 80 in woods targets setup. Some of the ones deeper on the course are a good 65+ yards. Just be aware you can not cross the lines and go onto the target side. The owner will talk you through anything you need to know, including the whistles and what they mean. If in doubt just ask, and if you want a target setting up deep then they will probably help... They also have a drawer full of paper targets and some holders. I will warn you tho, You'll be wanting an air rifle after a couple of visits!
  3. Greyhound in north Coventry. You'll need ID for your first shoot. It's an air rifle range, Targets to 50 yards. Ask them on arrival about airsoft stuff. I've taken my stuff in a few times and they have had no issue with it. I think it's £7 to shoot all day, and there's a decent pub next door for lunch/toilets. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Greyhound Gun Club/223205251025733/
  4. Both of my current augs are ABS, I have never seen a nylon variant. Never had a flimsy feeling aug body tho. The AEG variants feel less dense, but they don't generally have a flimsy feeling. ABS is far more impact resistant than nylon, and doesn't scuff and scratch as easily. It's also far easier to injection mould with ABS as it's not a material that is prone to absorbing water, unlike nylon. And ABS also suffers less casting warping. As such I don't think you will ever see a nylon AUG. If you are looking on a budget the olive snow wolf/JG models are about as close to a mil spec variant as you will see. https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/products/Snow-Wolf-AEG-Aug-Olive https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/products/Snow-Wolf-AEG-Aug-M-Olive
  5. It makes no difference. The only gear that isn't balanced is the sector gear, but the sector gear is arrested and under load from the piston/spring and spur for 50% for the time. So you will see more load wobble from that than you will from gear imbalance. SS 2 teeth and you can't even feel any speed wobble over the rest of the gearbox working. Bearings get crushed/fail because of the spring and the load that puts through the bearing, not because the gears are resonating. Basically slap yourself round the face.
  6. Cyma, They do AK's right. Scopes and stuff on the AK I know nothing about. I know there is a side mount that the gun I have linked to doesn't have. I'm not sure how much fettling you would need to do to make it all fit. https://www.tacticalairsoftshop.co.uk/CYMA-CM-031-AK74 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tactical-Scope-Mount-Picatinny-Weaver/dp/B07DL3HZ3H https://www.amazon.co.uk/ToopMount-Tactical-Mount-Tactical-Dovetail-Receiver/dp/B088K8RLKT/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/261-4196459-1089624?pd_rd_w=XW2X6&content-id=amzn1.sym.40f919ed-e530-4b1a-8d7e-39de6587208d&pf_rd_p=40f919ed-e530-4b1a-8d7e-39de6587208d&pf_rd_r=TAE785XAAKF214NEM3CS&pd_rd_wg=pMKC7&pd_rd_r=79f487c7-8f85-4e03-8a60-06bc0cafd6b3&pd_rd_i=B088K8RLKT&psc=1
  7. You can just cut that 3rd position into the safe bar
  8. It really is. It's the fact it's a standard metal V3 gearbox, just with plastic bushings. Those bushings aren't actually that bad. I've been spouting on about budget augs and the upgrade path you can take with them for a few years, and even now it's more than relevant. For a £110 base gun, with some decent upgrades. You can totally eclipse anything you can buy in box. And save money in the process. Externally ASG also have the trades so it's a win win IMO. Bearings (£10), Spring (£5), Motor HT (£30). This makes a good gun. (+£45) (£155 total budget) Additional optional upgrades - 13:1 gears s/s 2 teeth (£20), brass spring guide [not required if qc box] (£12), Silent head set POM [Element IN0810] (£15), Mosfet - whatever you want (£10 budget model), barrel (£25), Hop rubber (£10). This gives a beast mode AUG. (+£92). So the total could be £247 for an absolute monster. There simply isn't an aug on the market that comes close to those specs. It's like a full sweetshop spec, for less than a basic TM (£260-280).
  9. I've written quite a bit about AUG's. However I'm out of the loop so to speak. You can visually see the difference in 2 of the budget bodies. JG uses a smooth body all over, same as the TM and CA. APS/AA and a few others have raised textured areas on the stock and pistol grip. Of those 2 bodies there's very little difference in feeling, but the JG is slightly nicer feeling IMO. Neither body is any worse or better than the other. TM/CA and externally identical to the JG in all standard variants bar the HC. The HC is closer externally to the ASG commando, but I've seen that with both APS and JG style bodies. All uppers A1 A2 are identical across all manufacturers. A3/A4 variants are usually an A2 upper with a RIS kit, And are imo the only aug variant you should avoid as the balance is all whack with them. Some AUG's have a 3 position safety allowing a semi only position. You can modify a 2 position safety to be 3 position if wanted. I've shown the modification in other posts on here if you search. The internals is really what separates AUGS. JG are the best budget internals. They come with a better motor and gearbox internals. APS can and do have issues with the piston head having an injection point on the sealing face of the piston head that can eat the o-rings over time. The gears aren't as good as the stock JG ones, and the motor is weaker on the ones I've played with. It is a solid gearbox however and even stock with the dodgy piston head it is reliable. CA do the only AUG with a stock mosfet. JG are better value and a Mosfet can be installed on an AUG without even opening the gearbox. So the mosfet is only a selling point if you can't install one yourself. TM do the best running gearboxes, but the gears are soft and they don't take FPS increasing upgrades without also wanting the gears upgrading. Overall I'd say unless you want a HC out of the box, you are universally better off with a JG. ASG do a few variants in both APS and JG body's. Typically the value/discovery line is 0.8 joules and has plastic gearbox bushings, but the rest of the gun is standard internally. The sport line is 1 joule and may have slightly different internals but nothing significant. The proline sometimes comes with a mosfet, and should have bearings and a QC spring system, but these are model and age dependant upgrades, the mosfet is a very recent addition I haven't had one of these in my hands yet. Of the 3 if you are capable of upgrading, the value/discovery line is the way forwards. Bearings (£10) and a spring (£5) and your already over the sport line. I would also be very surprised if a value line didn't come with a QC spring system provided it's from new/new stock. Externally you may get either a JG or APS but I wouldn't be overly worried about that for the £110 price point. It's a far more budget friendly option than the others that only have minor gearbox improvements. https://bbgunsuk.co.uk/asg-aug-a2-styre-electric-airsoft-gun-in-black/ All models in all manufacturers come with the same hop unit. There will be some variation on internal barrels but not enough to swing a buying decision as the ZCI S/S barrel will out perform all stock barrels. Same with motors and after market HT motor is going to be better than anything stock bar the TM HC variants. So keep the base gun cheap as possible. As for your other worries, Creaking is a feature on an AUG. They all do it. As too is BB's getting lost in the body on mag changes. All uppers have some movement. These are the price of wanting to run an AUG, and you have to want to run one and live with the body issues otherwise get a M4 variant. The Hop unit and barrel should be free floating on the spring as this is a vital feature on the AUG it locks the body, tensions the gearbox, and aligns everything internally. You can not shim an AUG barrel it'll cause you a massive headache.
  10. I'm into my G3 over £1K with the scope and everything else that runs with it. The most I've done to really protect it is make a polycarbonate scope protector. There's absolutely no point buying the gun you really want, just to look at it. I mean a smartwatch is knocking on the door of £1K, so too are phones. You wouldn't stop yourself from having either just because you might damage it. Yes you might insure it. But it's not going to live in a case on a wall for it's life is it. Is a £150 gun comparable to something more expensive. That depends on you. My other favourite gun the Aug A1 was £80 when I got it. What I can tell you about both the G3 and the AUG is there both guns I wanted, and wanted to play with. If I got a gun with the intention of it staying pristine then that isn't a gun to play with. There are always cheaper options.
  11. You can get PTFE impregnated silicone grease on ebay dirt cheap. Been using it for years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391399159157?hash=item5b21353575:g:fDUAAOSw6fBclQTY My favourite gear grease is moly. This is a nice cheap one that works well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391721324225?epid=1548017327&hash=item5b34690ec1:g:bj4AAOSwsnpe6QpA
  12. You can't search the database by name, I believe - But I may be wrong. I think the only search you can make is by number that leads to the information to confirm the Ukara status. I know when I've called to check my own status in the past I needed to provide my number, name alone wasn't enough, and my name is very unique with only a couple of hits worldwide. The general public also don't have access to the database, hence we need to contact a retailer to confirm status. As such an employer would need your Ukara number to actually make the search. Air rifles under 12ft/lb no licence is needed in the UK and no information needs to be exchanged for a sale for any party other than confirmation of age. Scotland is different and the laws that Wee Jimmy Krankie put in place are frankly insane. I feel for you guys on that one.
  13. The details been kept by Ukara are literally, Name, Address, Skirmish site, Ukara Status, Email. Given that this is a transaction where postage is needed you have already provided, Name, Address, Valid Ukara, potentially Email. So exactly the same information is passed on regardless. As you can only have a RIF shipped to your Ukara address. If it's shipped to another address, or name then it's outside of the scope of Ukara defence and should be flagged. Providing a Ukara number in order to make a sale, Is giving permission for that Ukara number to be checked. And the conversation should be wholly one sided if you need to contact a retailer to make that check. The conversation needs to go like I have X number to check, Mr X, of X address. And the answer only needs to be a confirmation of information. Ukara and the retailer do not provide information about the buyer, That information has already been provided by the buyer to the seller.
  14. There's actually a proper folding stock M4 variant. The LR300. It's been made by G&G as the GR300 some with magnesium bodies. (mines one of these). A&K made one as the LR300. And now Evolution have made one with full trades as the LR300. https://www.evolutioninternational.it/our-products/air-soft-guns/evolution-hard-core/evolution-hard-core-z-m-weapons/ Dboys have done the folding stocks in both wire and 5 position. But I'd be tempted to contact Evolution and see if stock spares are available and at what price.
  15. Sounds like the Guys a cock. All he had to do was provide a Ukara number, name and postage address. If he can't manage to do that and is generating excuses then there's something wrong. Actually checking a Ukara number isn't a breach of privacy. All you are doing is checking information that has been provided, and none of that information is sensitive. It doesn't tell you his bank details ect. And if he is/has been a police officer, and you sell it to him without Ukara then you have just provided them with your own court case. It's time to walk away from the sale.
  16. I think you are over complicating it. Just make a block that screws into the trigger guard.
  17. You've snapped the back of the hop unit off. New unit is pretty cheap for an AUG. The bit that has snapped holds a spacer in place. https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/jg-works-airsoft-hop-up-unit-chamber-for-aug-series-aegs-softair-6mm-bbs-42281-p.asp I'd probably get a hop rubber as well since you will have it all open. To get the hop off you need to unscrew those tiny screws on the side of the plastic barrel, and the hop and inner barrel will slide out of the plastic outer barrel.
  18. Good spot, I'd linked to the wrong set. Should of been the 97 21 215 B set, not the 97 21 215 set! Different ends on the pliers! https://www.amazon.co.uk/97-21-215-burnished-multi-component/dp/B001127PXQ
  19. Facom is now owned by stanley black and decker, along with dewalt, irwin, marples and a few others. Dewalt and Irwin are still generally good buys. Bahco is owned by snap on (SNA group). A lot of the Bahco production is now in Spain and China not Sweden so while still very good, it's not quite what it used to be 30 years ago. Draper are mostly an import rebrander, like clarke. The Expert range is similar to clarke pro in most cases, the Power tools are TTI. Laser are pretty good for specialist tools and they make or specify most of them. Makita is still Makita. Milwakee is owned by TTI, and mega China company that make most of the budget tools like Ryobi and off brands, but the Milwakee brand is mostly very good.
  20. Draper stuff can be hit and miss at times, I've got a love affair with Clarke pro (machine mart), It has to be the pro version tho as it comes with a lifetime guarantee, Identical to the halfords pro of a few years ago in most cases. If you have a local MM then you can just walk in and exchange any broken clarke pro stuff. I think the only thing they don't cover is ratchets, but all the sockets ect are covered. Bahco are also very decent, but the prices can vary massively. They do a little 1/4" ratchet set called the SL25 that is superb. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-SL25-Socket-Piece-Drive/dp/B000Y8XCA8
  21. The best Crimpers I've used are the Knipex ones. It really depends on the Style of crimp you want to use tho. If it's for ferules then the Self Adjusting ferule crimp is a fantastic tool. It's not cheap, but we use them at work for rebuilding machine cabinets. There are cheaper variants of this on the market, but you want something that crimps from all angles for ferules. Amazon should have a selection of off brands with ferules for under £30, but I can't guarantee the quality. https://ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Knipex-97-53-04Sbe-4003773030270-Self-Adjusting-Ferrule-Crimping-Pliers https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-25-10mm²-AWG23-10-Self-Adjustable-Connectors-terminals/dp/B08ZDN5WNQ/ref=sr_1_12?crid=1IIW3KETH2JLC&keywords=Self+Adjusting+Ferrule+Crimping+Pliers&qid=1655161907&s=diy&sprefix=self+adjusting+ferrule+crimping+pliers%2Cdiy%2C116&sr=1-12 If all you are thinking is bullet and spade connectors then the standard Knipex crimping pliers are a tad cheaper. Again there are cheaper versions on the market, but we tend to see a lot of Knipex pliers in industry because there generally about the best you can get easily. £20-25 is about average across the decent brands, Cheaper might be better for you if it's only for a couple of connectors a year. So check screwfix and amazon. https://ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Knipex-Kpx9721215-4003773034131-Crimping-Pliers
  22. Iceni

    Jg aug a3

    Plastic hop has no issues. I picked up one of the fancy CNC ones and used it for a while and it didn't do anything better than the plastic one was doing. So no stick to the original one.
  23. Iceni

    Jg aug a3

    Aug's are funny guns to work on. You have to love them a little bit to want to do upgrades as the base guns are so cheap that upgrading can very easily overrun the cost of the gun itself. And you will see no return in second hand price based on upgrades. A £130 base gun second hand is like £90. Even upgraded and singing you'd be only looking at £130ish and that could be with £100+ in upgrades. So don't for one minute think you are adding value to the gun. I'd keep it at 350fps, and concentrate on making it accurate and consistent. With that in mind you should be able to get above average range without needing to limit yourself to single shot only. Barrel wise the ZCI are a decent brand to look at. AK2M4 have them for a good price. Typically an AUG is a 509mm barrel, but since yours is second hand I would advise measuring it. I like the Prometheus purple, and G&G green hop rubbers. I've not had any issues with them in AUGS. You can normally find them for under £10. The gun will also need a chrono doing. If it is under power then a new spring is needed. And with that comes a whole heap of costs. Upgrading the gearbox. That depends on you. At the most basic level, If the gun needs a new spring the gearbox will need to be opened in 90% of augs (you may be very lucky and have a quick change spring guide and gearbox). If you do need to open the gearbox to do this a basic service should also be done - Grease, Shims, Spring, and O-ring. All cheap parts... But since you already have it open the temptation to add upgrades can be hard to ignore. Personally I have tried high speed motors on 18:1 gears, High torque motors on 13:1 gears, and the SHS bore up kits. From that I would say the 13:1 high torque build is best. It's quieter with less trigger delay. And works very well with a 7.4v lipo setup. Gears £18, Motor £50, Bushings £5, Heads £15, Spring guide £10, spring £5 - So defiantly not the cheap option as you can almost buy another AUG for the money! If you are cheap just put a high speed motor in. Again I would advise 7.4v. £40 for a Short high speed motor, it's a drop in part and easy to do. Bore up kits are almost worthless. The old element silent V3 cylinder head and piston head set on a non ported thick walled brass cylinder is more than enough, the set is about £15. Match it with a solid spring guide and some bushings and that's most of the gearbox parts sorted. If the gearbox is working fine I wouldn't even bother to do this until it breaks. Air seal nozzles can be an absolute pain in the ass as well. I've used the ASG ultimate aug one without any problems, but others can and do have issues with length, that can cause air seal issues. A mosfet may also be wanted, If running 7.4v you can sort of get away without one, but if you are running 11.1 I would want one to protect the contacts. So back to a basic gun setup- ZCI barrel , Hop rubber, - Chrono. If under power - Spring and service. Upgrades if you want to go mental but not essential. For batteries I use 7.4v 2200mah block type batteries. You can find cheaper in other places, but I have always had these 2 brands. These will fit, You may have to slightly modify the gearbox plate to remove the plastic nub at the bottom of it. These only charge at 1C (2.2amps) so a charge will always take 1 hour. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-30c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html These will also fit and are slightly more expensive but can take a much faster charge if you have a decent enough charger to deal with them. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-35c-70c-lipo-battery-giant-power.html Both batteries need a decent charger.
  24. Aug safety is a mechanical trigger lockout. If it's defective it means the bar either in wrong, or it's been modified. New bar is less than £10, and can be had from a few sites, Fire support have them for £9. Provided the gun is shooting in semi and full auto on the correct trigger position then it should be a drop in replacement, If the Trigger linkage has been modified for a shorter trigger pull then the safety will be compromised and there can be no guarantees it'll ever be right again without converting back. Not something that's easy as the linkages can not be bought. The flat spring is commonly lost resulting is a safe bar that drop out, again you need the full replacement as I have never seen the springs sold separately. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/asg-15909-au-17-steyr-aug-aeg-fire-selector The model isn't an AUG 16, It's an AUG 1G. Can be had for about £130 new.
  25. I made the move to bib and braces for my workwear. Loads of advantages over trousers, the main one been you never have to pull them up and can load the pockets however you want. The other huge advantage is they stop draughts down your back. https://workwearnation.com/collections/bib-brace/products/snickers-0312-craftsmen-one-piece-trousers-duratwill-olive-green
×
×
  • Create New...