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Iceni last won the day on December 19 2015

Iceni had the most liked content!

About Iceni

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    AF-UK Regular

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  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.

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  1. Impressionist groups/teams

    I can agree with that statement as much as I can disagree with it. Basic kit, Trousers, shirt, webbing, hat. Is representative of active service. It's going to depend on the war as to what you see. An awful lot of them are not going to be wearing much more than basic kit, Because they drop everything into the bergen and leave it on a vehicle that is going to follow up. Or they have hit base set up camp, and are moving out on light gear. Existing units would also be on older gear, so provided you don't go younger then your time period, anything older that might still be in service could still be issued. I have a young friend who's just finished his army training, His training rifle, L85A1. And that was a recent issue. Falklands for instance Bergens and full packs are on, Vietnam webbing and an open shirt with a tin hat. Korea Webbing and a Parka/smok. The general rule seems to be if you have somewhere to stow your gear, then you do it. So light kit is relevant. Training, now that's where things get interesting, because a unit in training would have full field equipment, 3 day load, Tents, Water treatment, The full shebang, as no training unit would be allowed to load light. The Soldier look comes from training images. It's not what they look like in battle. Under training conditions uniform will be worn correctly, in full, and inspected. Not so much in battle.
  2. Impressionist groups/teams

    I think it is more an individual/group thing than a site thing. The level of attention to detail is the separator. It is only expensive if you pick a rare/old period of time, There are countless 30 -50 year old styles that can be classed as budget. Provided the level of detail needed is the bare essentials. Shirt, Trousers, Webbing/vest, Pouches, Hat. Some common themes that would be budget themes would be: West German (Olive drab) German reunification (flecktarn) Austrian (olive drab) UK (DPM) Czech M85 (olive drab) American (several patterns) The expensive part comes when you pick a pattern that uses Plate carriers, Special pouches, Helmets, and comms. I just built a basic German kit for myself, Trousers, Shirt, Parka, Webbing, 2 hats, 4 extra mag pouches was all less than £70 delivered. On a similar budget I could have done a full kit to the same level for the others listed above. Modern kit is generally more expensive than the older kit. The shirt and trousers might be cheap, but the rest won't be, There is more demand, and less market saturation. You are also buying against civilian units like the TA, Army cadets, Air cadets ect. So demand means the prices can be higher. The gear is also more complicated, with less attention to simple design as modern soldiers need more kit. The last factor is modern non military kits. These come in many guises. There are the clones of existing patterns new and old, Radical new patterns, And patterns that are inspired rather than based on world use. These styles of kit are probably the most expensive, And the least functional. There are countless companies selling military inspired clothing and kit that is eclipsed both in price and function by it's real world equivalent. The difference, The clones can be purchased new and are generally held in stock in most airsoft shops, Military surplus on the other hand is sold by strange men who may or may not be hiding nazi memorabilia under their beds. My advice to anyone looking is to actually look. Don't think because it's new and in an airsoft shop it is correct and going to work. If you want to cheap out, do it with older real kit. You will look the part, the clothes will be durable and function correctly, and the webbing will have been tried by thousands of soldiers, abused to a level you can't imagine, and still function... your once a month, I don't want to get dirty, Skirmish isn't going to hurt it in the slightest. So it falls back to the original question. "does impressionism have any popular standing in UK milsim? if so, what groups replicate which units/timeframes etc." You have to look at the sites you want to play at. Any kit should be safe, It'll either be a NATO force, or not. The site will have more NATO kit than anything else regardless. Provided it looks right, And fits the general theme of the day no one will care. Safest bet is DPM as it covers a huge time frame. 1966-2010. And the SAS have access to just about every gun you can think of.
  3. One of those days.

    All my Flecktarn just arrived from Poland And I have the day off work! You would have hated the postage Rogerborg, Took 11 days to appear. Might be a good day to set up webbing!
  4. One of those days.

    The model you are looking at isn't a JG. It's an LCT and considerably more expensive. While it's a lovely gun, At it's price the LCT is hard to recommend, It's a gun you get because you want it, not because it does anything better. As such you shouldn't regret your decision because the JG G3 (full length model) is known for been a pretty poor gun. It's long and the plastics are less than stellar. Creaks like a boat in a storm, and won't polish up like the above because it's made of plastic not steel.
  5. One of those days. About £40 with the 10-20 day airmail postage.
  6. Gun picture thread

    The only paint is the black. The LCT G3 is a steel body, so what you see there is metal with a layer of oil. No plans to do anything to the plastics, They interchange so having an older body with new furniture isn't a problem for the loadout. I may at some point get the wood kit for it as it's a direct replacement and not overly expensive.
  7. One of those days.

    Nothing, all parts are true to the original. The rail needs no cover, It's a removable rail, So it's just as easy to remove it If I don't want it on. When I get the mil spec scope and claw mount in the future the rail will have to come off anyway. Grip.Stock and foregrip are about as close to the real gun as you can get. You can get the real parts but there is no point as they look the same. There may at some point be a desire for a wood kit, For the minute the furniture matches the flecktarn camo for time period. I had a look at some of them. Mid caps are available King Arms do a box of 5 110rnd mags that should work with the JG since it's a marui clone. This is the model I would think most suits an SAS loadout.
  8. Did you have an account with them and had them previously deliver to you home address? Not that that would matter anyway, they check the details before sending the Gun. So if the UKARA is refused the order won't ship if it's from a UK company. If it has to go through customs then you are best to have all details correct, including shipping address. As the UKARA might be checked as it passes customs.
  9. Provided it's posted in his name, using his UKARA then it shouldn't be an issue. I don't have a bank card, All the online banking is done in my wifes name, including paypal ect. I've had no issues using her cards to order in my name. But the delivery must be addressed to the UKARA holder, At the address the UKARA is held.
  10. Where in Yorkshire for Army surplus?

    There used to be a good one in Leeds but I can't remember the name of the place. This was it I think. German sizes are well done if you have the option to measure yourself. It's all done in metric. You have a total height selection, Then waist/chest done in direct to the body measurement. Largest I've seen is 100-110cm waist that is about 39-43 inches. Longest I've seen is 185-190cm ^6-0 ^6-3 feet. This Polish site has a very good selection of sizes in the German kit, Sold with the German size guide, Buying in the UK you will find UK suppliers try to convert it to Inches and it's a bit more of a gamble if they do.
  11. First Milsim

    Take kit from a non English speaking country. If you start to receive orders Just pretend you don't speak English. Even better learn the correct phrase for "Do you speak XXXX" Then turn and continue your conversation in English. Rinse and repeat for every order. Milsim at it's finest.
  12. Bullpup AEG?

    Light oil would be fine, I have some silicone/ptfe combo oil I got from ebay that does mine rather well It's not expensive either. As for the FPS, get it tested again first. If it's still low contact patrol base but make sure the BB's are correct at chrono. I've never bought from them so I don't know how they will act in this situation. There's no point speculating until you have the figures. If it's shooting well then at least you know you will have a good days shoot regardless.
  13. Bullpup AEG?

    It's the same model as my ASG A3 sportsline. Check the body nut and bolts. The one on the magwell needs a dab of blue threadlock, That screw doesn't want to be tight because it will stop the mag release working. So the threadlock is to stop the bolt and nut falling out after multiple mag releases! The other 2 bolts at the rear of the stock can be done to a reasonable tightness, or you can blue threadlock them. Just be aware the bottom screw needs to be removed sometimes to help getting the gearbox out. Lube the trigger plate. Its easy to get to when you split the body. A couple of dabs of oil under the sliding plate, and give the trigger a good 50 pulls, then wipe it off. It'll make the trigger nicer. Don't remove the plate thinking it will be easier to oil! As there are 2 springs, and 2 ball bearings that will come flying at your face and those parts are hard to find when they go flying, and need 6 pairs of hands to get back in! Did you use .25g BB's? That would account for the FPS difference. The stock 320fps would have been with 0.2g BB's Yeah damn noisy! But once it's ready for upgrades after a year or so you can invest in making it silent! And then they shine!
  14. Bullpup AEG?

    Pictures or it didn't happen I also want to see what gun you went for in the end! Also, how was the shoot? what batteries did you use? And did it do everything you wanted it to do?
  15. Wet weather gear?

    Get a poncho. It'll keep the water off. And you should find it flaps about enough to not create a sauna.