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At airsoft ranges and with the ''accuracy'' of airsoft guns, an irons setup for speed over grouping is far preferable I'd say. Airsoft guns in general are only capable of firing as accurately as the real thing (i.e. where your zero'd sights point is where the bullet goes, every time) within a small distance. A good quality AK can put 762x39 within about 3-4" at 100 yards, I'm not sure what the max distance would be for an AEG to attain that tight of a group as I'm just not interested in barrels/hop parts/internals, but I'd wager something very roughly around 20m (gun dependent obviously), followed with a max range of about 55-60m for a 350FPS gun that's been extremely thoroughly tuned by a very gifted tech. That ties in to the proliferation of red dots within airsofting, how many people do you even see that don't run a dot sight? I mean when I think back it's a very rare sight for me personally. Get a few guys with 4x ACOGs/Specters and obviously there's the marksmen/snipers. Few older style guns (often AKs) just running irons, but more often just because they don't have any picatinny on top of the rifle. But outside of that, everyone I personally see with a gun that can easily mount a dot seems to have one and it does makes sense realy. In the real world if you're an awesome shot with a lot of training you can shoot someone at 700m with a dot, but it's a whole truck load easier with magnification, even a biff like me can hit a man at 500 yards with zero prior practice shooting at that range at all, long as I've got a SUSAT. However the concept of red dots was really tailored for close range encounters (10-200m ish, opinions and SOPs vary a lot) and the standard airsoft combat ranges of about 10-50m fit in that bracket very nicely indeed. You only have one point of reference which in the iron sight world would just be crazy, nobody does that, but we're so close in airsoft and the average carbines most people carry just don't shoot shoot anywhere near tight enough to worry about maximising sight radius and spending ages perfectly zeroing optics. Whereas being able to get a bead someone that's close very quickly is very useful indeed. A quick zero with a reasonable quality (or for AEGs even low quality) red dot works great I find. Usual caveat that obviously all the above is just based on my own experiences, your mileage may and quite possibly will vary.

Hey all, so thought id share this one with you! Here's my custom mp5 which started life as a galaxy mp5k. I bought an m4 RIS system and customised to fit whilst using a universal silencer to get that integrally supressed look. After measuring it all up theres going to be perfect room to fit a shortened grenade launcher underneath! First mp5k I've ever seen that can take a grenade launcher lol! After that I threw a top rail on with soom sights and gave her a wizz, low and behold she shoots perfect. Can't wait to skirmish it! No internal upgrades at the minute but have a few in mind for the future. I also did a bit of cosmetic work to my 6" dan wesson, a few hydrographics dips in urban camo which I think look sweet! Anywho just wanted to share this with you all and get some feedback guys! Will

Hello, I was browsing on JBBG and I came across this: So anyways, I bought some and lets see how they shoot: As we can see, these BB's are great for game types such as "Defend Snoop" and "Capture the Weed". 10/10 would snoop again.

For your normal AEG I'm still putting r-hop down as snake oil along with the fallacy that a longer tighter bore barrel is 'more accurate'. I've shot a huge array of guns and I've never had one shoot reliably further than 60 yards (that's a measured 60 yards on a range, not an airsofter's "my gun shoots coke cans at 60 yards") effective range. R-hop, j-hop, q-hop bla bla bla... none of them shooting 350fps or less have gone really any further reliably than that distance. For a sniper rifle yeah it may be a marginal gain but for your average AEG? no. That and sorbo pads, radiused gearboxes... really now? I know I roll this out pretty regularly but my old Marui M4 had been chugging away reliably for MORE THAN A DECADE with zero maintenance before I sold it, that includes a couple of years sat in a box under a bed with all the seals 'drying out' (clearly they didn't) and it shot just as well on the day I chrono'd it for sale as it did the day I bought it back in 2001. This is the same brand that uses 'crappy plastic bushings' and pot metal gears along with a terribly low tech non-radiused gearbox shell and not a bearing in sight! Yes, there are performance gains to be had on this design, but even so they're marginal... bearing spring guides etc yeah, they might extend the life of the gun by another decade? Reliability is entirely down to good materials and quality control, without those things all the best bearings and sorbothane are useless from the factory. Performance is also entirely down to good materials, design and quality control... an r-hop by all accounts takes a vast amount of fettling to be effective and it'll never work from the factory. Airsofters have this massive fixation with 'upgrades' and chasing the next big performance gain but if you've got a half decent gun to begin with you're chasing smoke, if you've bought a JG M4 with 5 previous owners you don't need upgrades, you need your head checking.

Here's what needs to be done for no real tech work out of the box to be needed,for my standards at least. AOE corrected with sorobthane padding (New lonex guns come with this,only manufacturer who does this I think) does wonders for long term reliability and durability. Proper shimming (Some higher end guns have pretty good shimming,like TM) Good quality bushings or 8mm bearings (Not the sh*tty plastic TM & JG as well as some other outfits use) Deans connectors (G&P have this) Low resistance wiring (Lonex have their silver plated looms in their newer guns I think) Good sealed hop up and an overall properly made hop up unit. Realsword literally use some sort of glue to seal their buckings 100%. TM are still famous in their way of making hop up units work really well,some guys like CYMA make the best units in ACM. Bearing sporing guides (lots of outfits are coming out with these,which is nice) A basic mosfet (G&G nearly had this but their mosfet sucks balls) Good greasing! Not the sh*tty snot the Chinese use. FFS silicone grease costs pennies! Why do some manufacturers use odd colored earwax? Thankfully most high end guys have this done Radiused cylinder windows - Spread stress more evenly through the gearbox Aluminium gearbox shells- Although they can be used, Zamak shells are starting to get too weak for the higher stress stuff like DSG builds and super powerful DMR stuff. Neodymium motors - Neodymium magnets cost only pennies more than ferrous magnets. You can get an SHS HT for 30 quid,and most chinese manufacturers are coming with these. Part suitable for long term use and usage on stress higher than what comes stock- Metal injection molded gears are starting to come out at good prices and in stock guns like ICS Transform4 line, Polyacetal and Nylon pistons are very common on ACM. Some things I may have missed. But that's my basic opinion Right now there are no manufactures who's guns out of the box can compete with tuned or upgraded custom builds,but they are getting close now. More and more stock parts are getting better and do not need replacing. Once companies get proper material and part usage going it's just a matter of time until they start doing things like AOE correction and proper shimming stock. All we can do is still do the 15 quid tuneup and wait.

Buy a real sword and you will answer your own question, nowt required, end of

please dont ever "browse" jbbg, its basically an airsoft sin... XD

STEADY YOURSELF BRATHA

Agreed. I've never paid tax on any accessories bought from HK. I'm not saying that you won't be taxed, but it's highly unlikely for small parcels. If you buy from the US however, nearly everything seems to get taxed!

Any 7.62 pouch will fit it. SR25, HK417, M14 etc. There will be no set pouch for just a Scar H as the size is simmilar to most others of the same calibre.

Any colour that's not brown, sand, blue, light blue, black, green, red, maroon pretty much covers most of the Armed Forces

^^Royal Artillery Regiment loadout... Rocketman!

Please put this in the hall of fame.

PLATE CARRIER!!! I WIN

It's perfectly fine for a standard field gun. If you have good mechanical knowledge basic tech work should be easy enough. Shimming is just trial and error,AOE is very simple and regreasing is literally child's play.

Ahah! My beloved JG V2! These gearboxes are some of the best you can get if you can do simply tuning like Shimming,AOE correction and re greasing. The parts quality in the box is great. Some are better than the stuff you find in higher end stuff. Assembly,greasing quality etc.. are horriffic to be frank but half an hours worth of work can get it to fantastic performance. This gearbox is very durable and reliable in my experiences. Great bang for buck Shells are often well cast out of Zamak and have the reinforcement in all the right places. Very strong shells,especially for the price. Gears on it are some of the strongest stock gears about. Bit noisy due to messy machine and casting work but very,very durable. Can take m150 spring no problem. Piston,assuming it's the newest production run of the gearboxes has half steel teeth with the 2nd tooth already removed to correct for AOE. Very,very durable piston. Newer JG pistons are very stronk. Piston head has the best seal out of a chinese gun I've seen. I have had trouble finding a better sealing head in a stock gun barring a TM one which was not supposed to,and did not deserve to seal so well . Cylinder is standard brass stuff. It's grand. Could do with some polishing to rid the old grease Cylinder head could use a new O ring but is usable. Nozzle is not too great but usable. I'd replace with an O ringed nozzle. Tappet plate is very strong. Popular among DSG build users since it's flexible and durable to keep up with the stress of a DSG. The one I worked on had metal bushings but due to QC and batch inconsistency some may come with plastic bushings. You can get decent metal,non oil channel metal bushings for very cheap and replacing them is an easy job. Wiring is not great but usable. Spring guide is very good quality- Due to Q/C and batch inconsistency they might be ball bearing or not ball bearing. The one I worked on was steel and ball bearing Overall- If you are prepared to invest an extra 10 quid for some new grease, a packet of shims & some metal bushings and sacrifice an hour for tech work it's a great gearbox. It's one of the better prebuilt drop ins about. My recommendations for a drop in Gearbox would either be this one or a Lonex one. You get really good bang for buck with this one. However if you just want something that's great performing,requires no work and very reliable I'd recommend Lonex,also re-branded under ASG ultimate pre built gearboxes. These are fancier,come with better air seal parts & wiring. Drive train on them is also good. They are pricey but lonex parts are some of the best out there and well worth it for people who do not wish to do a lot of tech work.

We're at that point now, G&G, tokyo marui, real sword etc. none of those guns NEED upgrading in any way to be good.

I don't understand why.. having the sights closer together makes the gun far less accurate as your point of references have less difference so the rifle will be harder to align properly.. its part of the reason why the AK is a lot less accurate than the M16, the sight is so far down the gun I just did some reading and it apparently make target acquisition faster with more peripheral vision but your accuracy is massively reduced making it only good for close quarters whereas a long gap is good for both close and medium/long distance encounters

Ebay is the mother of all! Just type in hydrographics film and there's thousands to pick from to do a gun grip you dont need much. Basically you need to buy the film, hydrographics activator aerosol, lacquer (I used matt lacquer coz I didn't want a shiny grip), you also need to bear in mind a base. With my grip I didn't use a base because it was black which went with the camo, but for exapmle if your using multicam film, you will need to give the grip a white or tan basecoat to allow the film to look its best. The actual process is fairly simple, you need to cut out a piece of film that is the right size for the piece your going to dip. I like to make sure there's about an inch excess all round so I know I have enough. You need to the border all the film with masking tape so it holds its shape I'm the water and also stops it from stratching when activated. To find out which way up the film needs to go in the water you need lick your finger and touch the corner of the film and whichever side is most sticky that goes water side down. So your set up ready to go, what you do next is fill a box up with water to 28-30 degrees (temperature is important!) When you use a box you need to make sure its big enough so whatever you dip doesnt touch the sides or the bottom. have a stopwatch on your phone ready then lay the film on the water and allow it to hydrate for 80seconds before spraying it with activator, just enough so the film goes mirror like and no more, and then slowly lower or dip your piece through the film, give it a shake under water and lift it out. DO NOT TOUCH IT! Rinse it straight away with a shower head or something to get all the gunk off it, takes about 5-10 ,ins then allow it to fully dry for a few hours before lacquer. Then your all done! Sorry for the essay mate! Lol

The stock, despite all the install videos complaining about it being difficult, was a breeze to install. The rail tapers as it goes from the receiver to the muzzle, and it is SO light. Weighed it before installing it, and its just shy of 350g. To put that into perspective, the Madbull 12.5" DD Rail is 700g, and this new one is 2.5" longer o.O

I just noticed where the rear sight is and my puritanical self shuddered

Well I have been looking at the Condor MOPC and WAS DCS. Tbh I always have quite a few ideas about loadouts so I am pretty indecisive and hence my plans change quite a bit.

Updated my post mate to include another mask. For your first skirmish take: A pair of good boots that offer ankle support Face protection A hoodie - keeps BBs from breaking your skin Knee pads since kneeling on BBs is annoying and sometimes painful A large bottle of water to stay hydrated Light snacks - you will need the extra boost between breakfast and lunch, trust me

Half mask:http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/201046205742 Full mask: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/360892762942?nav=SEARCH You can get a range of styles with the full face one. I have that style since it looked great with my first ever loadout (plus I was paranoid about my face being hit lol). They can be bulky and restrict your vision a fair bit but there are alternatives such as: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/black-bear-rampage-black-mesh--mask These offer the same protection and are more breathable. The half mask is combined with a decent pair of eye pro and won't fog lenses up like a balaclava or shemagh will.

Short answer: chrono the gun.

So i purchased G&G GC-16 it feels great faster fps then my previous gun i had and feels better build quality too. Love the gun so far.

thanks very much for the help! haha will do waiting for the stock atm

where are you getting this information from? mid caps require next to zero maintenance, I've never stripped and cleaned a mid cap magazine, ever. all of mine still feed flawlessly.

With a package that size you very rarely get taxed. I have over 30 orders from them and have never paid it once.

Quick word of advice - you don't HAVE to change the connectors in the gun. Mine's still running absolutely fine on the original Tamiya style ones. Deans or XT60 connectors do give you better contact but to be honest with the G&G SCAR the biggest barrier to connectivity isn't the battery connector - it's the fine gauge wiring that jumps the fold in the stock and the brass pins they use to connect through from the battery compartment to the main gun. Buy the gun, get a decent battery and enjoy it. It's a fine weapon!

If your friend is skirmishing he has a defence. You don't need anything like a 'UKARA' to own a RIF, you don't need any kind of permit to respray one if you are skirmishing. If he has sprayed it black he doesn't need to respray it to any other colour. There is a some bad info being passed around in this thread. A site shouldn't be asking you any questions about where or how you got your RIF. It's nothing to do with them. If he has a defence he can spray his two tone any colour he wants. .

Yup, still makes me laugh. Although I don't use Kotaku since their latest crappy layout update.

ERIKA!

You seem to say this a lot. Are you the Forum's official UKARA expert

implying scars doesn't look awful? sorry, couldn't resist!!

My teams loadout , makes a change other then multicam

The materials are definitely available if you are prepared to DIY it. The problem is, they are not listed in t'internet. The typical traits in fabrics that a traditional Taylor looks for cannot be described over the web very well. Things such as material thickness, weaves, finish, drape and dye consistency are all very hands on "feely" traits, that just don't translate to words very well. Two twill weave nylons of the same weight can feel very different. There were some online habidasherys in the early 2000s but they died a death because of it. http://www.pennineoutdoor.co.uk/p14-heavyweight-polyester-with-pvc-backing Is where I would start looking, they seem to have a good selection at a reasonable price, and you should be able to pick up the buckles, rivets and everything else you need there too. Alternatively there will be local sewing shops with fabrics, maybe not to the same spec as what you are after though. They don't tend to advertise on t'internet.p, so dig out the old yellow pages. Finally there is Hobbycraft ..... I don't like them for materials, but they stock a mid weight twill weave, black nylon. But it's £10 a meter. Way overpriced, but you are paying for the convenience I suppose.

No, just a finely tuned irony detector. Too many elfs and wizards in WoW for my liking. Not enough guns. Innit.

If you give up on the bandolier......Tactical Tailor's Mini MAV rig beckons........... You know you want to (but seriously cannot recommend these more, mine's had no problems for 2 years now and it only cost me £30- it's the smallest rig I've ever seen IRL as well, easily wearable under a jacket for close protection scenario milsims. You can find them and other Tactial Tailor products on tactical kit.co.uk)

I've been shot way too many times when I didn't expected it, in safe zones or at home. At a game day first thing is to put my goggles on and I only take it off when I'm driving away at the end of the day. Sometimes you can even surprise yourself with a well placed unintentional shot. For example the time I was building an 500 fps DMR and I put my finger in front of the muzzle to see if the air blows hard enough when I fire. There was still a BB in the hopup. Oh, fun times...

^^ These two. I do not swear by it or do I try and enforce it on others, I just think it's good practice at the end of the day. To be honest each to their own and I don't mind, I was just trying to have a little laugh and express my opinions, I did not mean any harm or to piss anybody off.

I've always found trigger discipline and weapon handling stuff kind of obvious and natural to do. For example your grip on a pistol should be as high up on the frame as possible but sometimes you see people holding it like half way and it looks retarded, not to mention completely impractical and probably uncomfortable. I don't know why you would do that. Reminds me of that kid on one of scoutthedoggie's videos with an MP5 and was holding the grip with his left hand and the stock with his right or something. Like Nickona said it's just a bad attitude / not good practice to have your finger on the trigger. We could all say 'oh well we're not stupid enough to have it loaded' etc but obviously we do it for a reason anyway. Nothing bad is likely to happen but it could so you should be careful and responsible, even if it is just a replica it's still capable of firing a pellet and regardless of where it hits someone it's still not supposed to be discharged in the safe zone or whatever. He's got eye pro on and he's at home and everything so it's fine really.

Probably shouldn't upload the picture of me juggling impact grenades then... I'm joking of course

Another problem is power source. It seems to run on some form of chemical battery rather than the usual NiMH or a lipo. Its really low voltage electrically but it uses a chemical energy as well to drive the gears. You can't just leave it the cupboard either, you need to charge it everyday or it breaks and will never work again. It can come in a range of colours at least, from pink to brown. However there isn't a nice shiny metallic black option and if you bang it into something it damages really easily. They developed some self healing technology which deals with the vast majority of issues within a week which is really quite incredible but you do need to take care of it.

This song and it's video just has so much meaning. It doesn't sing about biebers trying to get poosseh. As well as this song. Great band.

Shouting to this whilst doing art homework at midnight right now

This reminds me, the last time I was at a game, I was approached by a group of posh boys with all the tac. gear, but JBBG guns - in which they were using bulldogs (They sadly had no knowledge any other site existed, and swore by JBBG) Anyway, they were stuck up twats, drowning in multicam,wearing their Air cadet rank slides, bossing everyone around and thinking they were the shiz. In walks a lad with a G&G Top tech M4, they scream out in jealousy, "OMG IS HE USING YELLOW PELLETZ? LOLZOR" Jambwow has created his own airsofter, idiots with too much of daddy's money, no idea about airsoft, or any care about the sport. Their disregard for the sport and other players was proven throughout the day, I heard them discussing how one of them was going to sell his broken gun, as working, for full price to another regular and tell him to f*ck off if he said anything about it. The other shot me, full auto, from 2 ft away, in the groin.