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  1. 10 points
    Introduction: I’m making this guide for several reasons, not least because I’m sad and have nothing better to do, or maybe I’m procrastinating from doing real work, but I’d also like to get down on paper some thoughts on the science of our pew pew guns and clear up some misconceptions or at least get a discussion going to better our understanding. This guide is going to be a combination of actual science (well, as close as I can get to actual science ) and some personal experience, I’m by no means the most experienced airsofter out there but I’ve tried over the years to get an understanding of what’s going on and for those new to the hobby this might save some time barking up the wrong tree as I’ve done. Part 1: the goal Well this is simple, our goal is to shoot some random stranger on a farm on a Sunday and “kill” him, or at least hit him with a plastic pellet and for him to shout “hit” and plod off back to a chequered flag. This sounds pretty easy, but we need to start somewhere, so what do we need to make this happen? Well we need to hit him for a start, always helps, but not only that but we need to hit him hard. That’s not to say we need to hurt him, but whilst we can argue all day about wether or not people should wear plate carriers the short of it is you need your bb’s to hit with enough energy that he either feels it or hears the impact (which on a field of explosions and other people pew pewing can be difficult). So when our bb hits the target it needs energy. This is why I dislike to some extent the “you can get lots of range from a 328fps gun” argument, yes you can, but how far the bb travels isn’t the only part of getting a kill and just hitting isn't always enough sadly. Part 2: some misconceptions One thing that I see a lot in various threads is “upgrade your fps it’ll give you more range” or “change to x y or z hop it’ll give you more range” or “use x type of bb it’ll give you more range”, which is both right and wrong depending on how you judge range which will become more clear later. The thing to remember is once your bb leaves your barrel it doesn’t care what happened before, it could have come from a speedsofter’s £3000 hpa or some kids £90 rental ak, it only has 3 things on it’s side to fight the wind/tree branches/gravity to get to the target and these are: Backspin- this gives us our wonderful magnus force that will fight gravity and keep our bb in the air without needing to go at proper bullet speeds Mass- how much the bb weighs Energy- kinetic energy, we often like to use fps as our measurement as it’s how we can best record our performance but what really matters is energy So we should probably cover these 3 as they apply to our bb in flight. part 3- backspin backspin gives us our magnus force, the science behind it is quite interesting and worth a read if you’re interested in expanding your knowledge but in reality the only thing that we need to know is if our hop unit is set right. Now this is different for every setup, how fast the bb is actually spinning doesn’t really matter to us, it could be 1rpm or 10,000 rpm, we don’t care we just want our bb to fly straight. Now personally I set my hop units for a little bit of rise, about 20cm, so that when the bb comes out it’ll rise up by 20cm then start falling back down. The logic here is that if I’m aiming for someone’s chest it’s not going to jump up over their head, miss then drop back down behind them. We’ve all been there where our hop has made us miss someone. In terms of the physics the amount of lift we get depends on 2 things: The speed of rotation, which is pretty much constant after the bb has left the barrel (well, it slows down a bit but not much) The velocity of the bb When we “set” our hop unit what we’re doing is setting the speed of rotation to get the right lift, but if we change ammo or change springs the bb will either be going slower (needing more spin to get the same lift) or faster (needing less spin). Now the important thing to remember is that if we’re spinning x rpm, then there’s y velocity that gives us the exact amount of lift to fight gravity, but of course a bb doesn’t stay at y velocity, it slows down which is where mass comes in. Part 4- mass So we have our spin, but as I mentioned bb’s slow down, and this is the misconception I had many years ago that faster bb=more range The important thing is air resistance, which the faster you go the more of it you have so your bb slows down quicker (moving it out of that sweet spot for the hop spin to work) So say we have a 1j gun, we fire at 328fps on a .2g bb and 270fps for a .3gbb well that .2g bb is going faster, so it has more drag, and it’s lighter so the drag has more effect. The end result is the bb slows down very quickly and it doesn’t take long for it to slow down so much our backspin stops lifting it. Whereas the .3g bb is slower and harder to slow down, sure it might have started out slower but over time it keeps it’s velocity and hence stays in that nice range where the backspin can lift it. So in theory at least a heavier bb spun sufficiently will for the same energy always go further, take a look at the spreadsheet at the bottom and see what I mean. But wait, it gets better! Remember I said we need 2 things to hit a target? Well a heavier bb gives us both! In the real world we’re shooting through wind and worse leaves, these are forces just like regular ol’ drag and a heavy bb will be blown about less by the wind and has a better chance of punching straight through those pesky leaves and hitting the target, so we get more accuracy, yay! But not only are they more accurate they also carry their energy better, so when we do hit the target at range it’s going to hit it harder, and thus make enough force and noise to let the target know they’ve been hit. So where’s the downside? Why wouldn’t you run sniper .48’s in every gun you own and on every site? Well several reasons: 1. Cost, damn that pesky real world economics, but obviously heavier bb’s cost more. If you find somewhere selling .48’s for the same price as .2’s then let me know because that’s awesome. Those of us that own support guns with high rates of fire will most likely wince at having to fill it up with costly ammo only to be sprayed into the ether, likewise snipers who don’t shoot much can afford the good stuff hence why they like to run heavy. 2. Travel time, again this is the real world being all awkward and getting in the way of our lovely discussion but remember that our target may not be nice enough to stand still and wait to get hit, especially if he sees our bb’s coming towards him. Heavy bb’s might carry their energy better but they’re slower and take longer to go the same distance, not much longer, but it's enough. 3. Getting the lift, unfortunately the same properties that make a bb great in flight make them bad for spinning up in the hop unit, and this means that you may find you can’t run them without upgrading your gun and if (like me at the time) you don’t understand fully why it’s happening. This is the “more hop” argument for things like maple leaf/flathop/rhop guns, it isn’t about getting lots of hop on .2’s, it’s about being able to get enough hop on .3’s or heavier. 4. When you don’t need range, now I play mostly outdoors on sites limited to 1j, so for me getting every drop of performance I can is paramount, but say you’re playing in cqb where the maximum distance is maybe 10m, well there’s not much point spending money getting a setup that can shoot well beyond that if you’re not going to be using it, you’d be much better spending money on grenades. So what weight should you run? Well as heavy as you can afford and your gun can lift. Personally I use .3’s for all my “assault” type guns, .2’s in my mg42 (even though it shoots lovely on .3’s) and .43’s in my vsr, although should I ever sell my soul and play indoors I’ll just run .2’s. Part 5- energy So our final ingredient is energy, most folks will know this as fps because when we’re getting our guns checked at the local site that’s what we get told “oh sorry you’re 400fps and the limit is 350 so you can’t play”. Well what’s really important is energy, kinetic energy, which is a factor of our bb mass and it’s velocity, it’s why the limits are different for different weights of bb’s and why it’s a common tactic of the cheater to rock up at the chrono and say “yeah I’m running .2’s” and to chrono at 328fps while anyone with a lick of sense can hear the smack of the bb’s against the backstop and think “like hell is he running .2’s” This is where I take exception to the argument of “marui’s shoot fine at 328fps, you don’t need fps to get range”, well you do, or at least you should try to get your gun shooting as close to your site limit as you can. The short argument is energy is energy and more is always better, the long version is that energy gives us the velocity that means we need less backspin and can run heavier bb’s without them being really slow and letting our targets stroll out of the path of our righteous pewing. Remember once the bb leaves the barrel it only has 3 things, and mass is the only one it’ll not lose as it flies downrange. As your bb slows down in the wind it loses energy so the more of it you have at the start the better, it’s why all the cheaters want to run hot. A friend of mine recently lent me his m16 to do a bit of work on, he was keeping up in terms of range with most of the folk he was shooting at in part due to a good hop, but he’d rage daily at people not taking hits until we chrono’d it to find it shooting at half the site energy, turned out his floating bb’s were hitting with so little force if he was at any distance people just weren’t feeling it. Now to digress from external ballistics for a second (well, more like 10 minutes) to talk about joule creep. Think about it like this, our bb in the barrel gets pushed by gas, and how long it gets pushed for depends on the length of the barrel and how quickly it’s getting pushed. Joule creep is what happens when you have an “over gassed” gun firing .2’s, whilst you can do this with an aeg or a spring sniper it’s much more common in gas/hpa guns. Think about it like this, your gun can only push so hard, and a light bb will get up to speed very quickly, once it leaves the barrel then it’s not going to be pushed any more. So imagine we had a longer barrel, well if we push just as hard over a longer distance then the bb will spend more time accelerating and hence be going faster. Well the other way to make a bb spend more time in the barrel is to make it accelerate slower, now we can do this by making the bb heavier, so for the same force it’ll accelerate less (remember newton’s f=ma? Who says math class in school was useless). Now it’s not going to come out any faster than the light bb, but it doesn’t need to, it’s heavier so doesn’t need to go as fast to have the same energy. A good way to test this is to take a WE or marui gbb pistol, fill it up with .2’s and chrono it, for the sake of argument lets say it fires at 328fps which is 1j Now try it with .3’s and it fires 300fps, which is 1.2j or equivalent to firing a .2 going at 370fps This is why it’s important to chrono a gun on the weight you plan on using in a game, because a player can perfectly honestly, indeed without even realising himself, chrono his gun on .2’s and pass, but then fill his mags with .3’s and spend the rest of the day shooting a hot gun. Now you can argue all day that “yeah but he passed the chrono”, well it’s the exact same thing as running hot, the effect is the same (ie it hurts more and he has a more range), if everyone on the site does it or is happy with people doing it then the site's limits should be changed to reflect this. so digression aside what energy should you run? Well my opinion is you should take your site limit in joules and get your gun to shoot that on the ammo you use, any less will be a disadvantage and any more will be cheating. Part 6- nerd time! Well, that was a long rant without nerdy equations and whatnot so time to put our science hats on. So our bb in flight has 3 forces acting on it: Lift- from our magnus force, this is a product of our backspin and our velocity. The full equation I’ve used is for a cylinder but it’s close enough for showing the effect: Fl=ρ*v*2*π*r²*l*ω Looks an awful lot like it’s not just backspin and velocity there so lets break it down: Fl is our lifting force v is our velocity ω is our angular velocity (aka how much spin we have) r is our radius l is our length (for the cylinder example I stole this equation from) ρ is the density of air so if you think about it, if we make some broad assumptions we can say that the spin doesn’t slow down (at least not enough to make a difference) and the density of air doesn’t change enough to make a difference either. Now we’re dealing with the same size of bb so really the only things that can change are F as a product of v and ω. Drag- this is just from velocity and bb diameter (so sorry marushin guys but not sorry, we’re dealing with 6mm spheres here), although once again we have a more complicated equation: F=0.5*ρ*v²*Cd*A Ok so that’s not as bad Fl once again is our force, only this time it’s for drag Ρ has snuck in again, it’s the same atmospheric density v is a bit of a cheat, technically it’s the velocity of the air against the bb but I’m not NASA so the velocity of the bb is close enough Cd is our drag coefficient, again a big simplification but for our purposes we’re saying 0.47 for a sphere that’s got turbulent air around it (little known pseudo fact marui “magic dust” actually bonds the airflow to the bb causing laminar flow dropping the Cd to 0.1! (*not entirely serious)) A is our frontal area of the bb, good ol’ πr² So making the same assumptions before, with the addition of assuming turbulent flow, we end up with Fd being variable as a result of v. Gravity- this is from our bb weight and here comes the scary equation: Fg=m*g Wait, what? That was meant to be complicated! Well once again it is, technically g can depend on where on earth you are but in reality nobody cares because it’s close enough. Remember back to school math g is 9.81m/s² So with that explained on to the bit where I skip the really dull bit and just tell you to go look at the spreadsheet, basically it takes these 3 equations and with the starting parameters you give it it’ll spit out a graph of how different weight bb’s will fly. So as a quick note on it’s use: Muzzle energy- I’ve rated this as fps on a .2gbb just because that’s a unit we’re all familiar with, if you want to use joules it’s to the right of the reset hop button MED distance- this is the distance of your MED, for snipers interested in just how much hurt your 500fps gun running .5g bb’s inflicts on someone at 20m Energy at MED- this gives you an MED if you want to know how far a bb goes before it slows down to a given energy, useful for showing how far a bb can go whilst still hitting as hard as an equivalent gun point blank. Reset hop- this was a right pain making the spreadsheet so unfortunately the best I can do is fix the hop setting for a 20cm rise before it drops again, this will change if the fps is different so remember to press that button otherwise you’ll get some suspiciously good range numbers and some strange graphs. Maximum range- this I’ve set to the distance I’d call the “effective” range, ie when a bb has risen 20cm from where it left the barrel, then drop to 20cm below where it left the barrel, so if you fire at a man sized target you’ll hit him without needing to fire your gun wildly into the air and assuming he’s kind enough to stand there and get shot. So a couple of interesting points to note: Say we have a site, regular rifles have no MED and can be 1.3j or 375fps, snipers have 2.3j or 500fps but they have a 20m MED: Our rifleman running .2’s can shoot 38m, but if he can get enough spin to lob a .5g bb he’ll shoot 52m Our sniper running .2’s can shoot 43m, and at 20m the hit is a measly 0.4j or the same as being shot point blank by a 205fps gun, thing is if he packs .5’s in his gun he’ll shoot 60m and more importantly at 20m he hits with 1.27 joules, or the same as being hit by the rifleman at point blank So with that I’ll leave you to have a little play. Part 7- but I’m not a nerd! What do I need to do to get my gun to shoot far? So we’ve covered pretty well the science of how to get a bb to go far, it needs to be heavy, with lots of energy, and enough spin and if it has those 3 things it’ll go as far regardless of what gun it comes from. So why spend money on a fancy polarstar kit with an rhop like my favourite youtuber uses? Well back at the start we mentioned you need 2 things to get hits, and the first is you need to hit in the first place. This is where all our upgrades come in, a fancy barrel and hop unit wont make your bb’s go any further, but what it will mean is they’ll all start the same, we’ve all seen that guy with his 50rps dsg build m4 spray a mag load of bb’s only to get salty and rage because “he’s not calling his hits” when in reality by the time it gets to the target it’s a 10 foot spread. So the first place I’d recommend looking is your hop unit, there’s a million different designs that promise the earth so I’m just going to cover the standard, flat and radial hop and hopefully explain what’s going on so you can understand what some of the fancier designs out there like maple leaf are doing. So the standard hop is what most guns come with these days, it’s basically a lump of rubber in your barrel: Now lets add the bb, the trick here is to realise that a barrel is not exactly 6mm and neither is the bb, nothing is perfect and there’s a tolerance. So when you’re buying expensive barrels and bb’s what you’re really paying for is for them to be exactly the size they say they are and in the case of bb’s to be all exactly the same size. Now a bb is slightly smaller than the barrel, so we can be sure it won’t get stuck, this is why it’s important to keep your barrel and ammo clean because enough dirt and it’ll be rubbing it’s way down messing up that lovely backspin we want. Now we want our backspin to be the same every time, not just in terms of how much backspin there is but also in terms of the backspin being the same every time: The perfect scenario is vertical spin like this: But of course the bb isn’t going to be nice and pop perfectly in the centre every time: So our spin is at an angle, and as a result our magnus force will also be at an angle, lifting the bb not just up but sideways, this means it’ll try and curve off to the left or right, and because not all the force it acting upwards it’ll also lift up more or less, this is our friend with his ultra fast gun shooting a 10 foot spread and not hitting anything. So our alternative is to flat hop, and try to minimise this angle: Which when we try our wonky bb does this: So we get less angle, our bb’s drift less and our spread is less, meaning our bb’s are much more likely to hit what we’re aiming at, not only that but a flat hop will have a longer contact patch, or in other worse it spends longer spinning the bb, meaning we can spin heavier bb’s and get all the wonderful benefits heavier ammo allows us. Flat hopping a gun really isn’t as hard as you’d think it would be and can get some excellent results for very little money, and whilst it wont give you more total range on it’s own, it will give you accuracy and the ability to use heavier ammo increasing the range you can hit things. But what if we want more? More is good right? Well my friend in steps the Rhop: Man it took ages to align that and it still looks wonky. Now this might sound controversial but in my opinion the rhop isn’t really much different to a flathop, but the devil’s in the details. Firstly it’s going to actively pull the bb’s into the centre, if you look at some of the fancy hop designs (like maple leaf) you’ll see they’re trying to go for the same idea. The DIY rhop just takes a regular flat hop and pops a cut up square of rubber in the window of the barrel, when it’s turned on it can end up looking very flat inside the barrel, but remember when it deforms it’ll wrap round the bb: So we get as close as we can get to perfect vertical spin every time, and we have the same longer contact patch the flat hop gave us so we can still lift heavy ammo. Now remember that a bb’s lift is not just a product of spin, but also its velocity and herein lies the advantage of the rhop. Hop up rubbers come in different hardness’s, and like formula 1 fans will tell you a soft rubber is going to be grippy and a hard rubber not so grippy, now these aren’t cars but there’s one solid advantage to a hard rubber and that’s stopping leaks- remember your airsoft gun is chucking a lot of air behind that bb and air likes to escape. Now one way is to go down the barrel and shove the bb out of the way, but if it can shove its way out past the hop rubber or the nozzle or better yet just not go anywhere and stay in this nice cylinder thank you very much then it will. This is why common advice is to check for air leaks. Now since we’re talking about hops we’ll simply say that if you want a soft grippy rubber to spin your heavy bb’s then it’s going to be easier for the air to squish the rubber out of the way and sneak out, so we want a hard rubber, this is why hard rubber’s tend to be recommended for snipers as it’ll help prevent air leaks, and if you’ve played with the spreadsheet you’ll see that faster bb’s need less spin to lift, so the grip is less relevant if your gun is shooting fast. Well an rhop gives you the best of both worlds, because the patch and the main body of the rubber are separate you can have a nice hard air sealing rubber on the outside and a nice soft grippy rubber on the inside, yay! Downside is these can be a bit of a pain to get right, however it’s worth experimenting because the boost in accuracy and by extension effective range is a worthy payoff. now i haven't covered bb's barrels gearboxes and springs because frankly it's pretty straightforward: good bb's are consistent in size, weight, surface polish and roundness, check out Gasman's topic if you want to look at that makes up a good bb. good barrels are straight, there's no variation along their length, tight versus widebore is it's own topic but in my opinion that's secondary to quality (ie if you care enough to consider proper tight/widebores you should really focus on quality too) good gearboxes don't leak air, so they have good o rings, good tolerances and good compression, apart from that most gearbox discussions are more about supporting higher rates of fire, reliable feeding etc. and springs give you more fps, pretty self explanatory, pick the right one for your setup and site limits. most of what makes an hpa system so good is it gives the same pressure and volume of air for every single shot and consistency of fps=consistency of spin=accuracy=effective range. Part 8- conclusions Well the primary conclusion from this is that I should really be getting back to doing proper work, and that it’s almost certain I’ve just annoyed several strangers on the internet with my wonky diagrams and half-baked ponderings who will proceed to tell me I’m wrong about something. Now I’m not trying to lie to you, and if I am wrong I’d like to know because at least half of what I know has been learned through internet arguments. hell I used to think running .2’s was the best way to go for low fps until a bunch of strangers on the internet told me I was wrong. When I properly tried it to prove to myself I was right I realised I was wrong, and now look at me preaching the benefits of heavy ammo, with science! The best way to learn this stuff is to try it, it might be scary to crack open your first hop unit and cut it up with a pair of snips to make a flat hop but if you’re too scared to do it the first time you’ll never be able to try it a second or third time and eventually get it right. But if you think I’ve made a mistake, or I’m spreading misinformation then please explain yourself so I can understand what the problem is and either admit i'm wrong and learn something, or prove you wrong and you'll learn something, either way someone gets to learn something and: now if anyone asks, i've been researching de-lamination of fibre matrix composites all morning ;) BB range study.xlsm
  2. 10 points
    If I wanted to fuck around with something until it worked I’d buy an airfix model
  3. 8 points

    Take a quiet moment to think .

    Fair to say everyone on here loves airsofting , for me it’s all about the fun/laughs and generally dumb shit we all get up too in this community on a game day as much as any other reason for it . Now like several others on here I served in the forces and I for one don’t see any problem between these two worlds that I’m connected too but every now and again I do get an odd moment (normally when something bad has happened involving the forces or it’s a particular memorial date) where I think “should I be doing this ?” But then I do usually say too my self “get a grip you twat ! Your having fun your not hurting anyone and not pretending it’s real !” And all’s well again . this evening I had one of those “should I?” Moments when this popped up on a mates timeline , but a gain I took a moment and thought about this , gave my self my ‘mental slap’ and all’s good again 👍 so really all this rambling crap has been to say every now and again just take a moment and think about the sacrifices of the past made by so many young men and women just like you . if we do that it was worth it , if we don’t ? You decide .
  4. 8 points
    You see these kind of adverts all the time you know the ones “For sale custom M4 ! Real magpul iron sights/foregrip/sling plate , custom paint job , upgraded spring !” umm no it’s not , bolting bits on your gun , changing the spring and spraying it with some paint does NOT A custom gun make . In my book if it’s a gun that anyone can re-create just by going on the internet for ten minutes dropping some dosh and then waiting for the postman to deliver said bits’n’bobs then sorry but that is most definitely NOT a custom gun ! Now the guy who gets hold of real wood furniture and grafts it on to his G3 or does the same to his Thomson with real WW2 pistol grip and stock now THATS a custom gun , or the guy who spends most of the winter in his garage creating something that just doesn’t exist that most definitely is a custom gun ! Or even the guy who’s spent a couple of hrs modifying a certain rail system to fit to a gun it’s not meant too , to me as he’s needed to put a fair bit of effort in to the task and 90% won’t again that warrants the title custom . Then you’ll usually find they’ve hiked the price as well because it’s a custom gun and they claim to have used ‘real parts’ don’t make me laugh ! A lot of the Chinese knockoffs are that good I defy even the hardest core stitch counter to be able to tell fake from real so that’s that one out the window ! Please jump in guys and girls and put forward your thoughts on the subject .
  5. 7 points
    Came across this a couple of wks ago and thought “that’s mental ! I’m having one !”🤪 so I did ! Arrived today and it’s truly batshit crazy and I love it , it came with the mesh visor fitted but you also get a clear panel as well (but that’s just boring) SO I’ve ordered an iridium motorbike visor to cut down too fit it , much more appropriate to the helmet I thought ?😉 AND the visor is spring loaded ! Press the catch and whoosh ! Up it goes ! 🤩
  6. 7 points
    Old style fully trade marked PX4 with rotating barrel, four mags & a Blackhawk holster 😈
  7. 7 points
    Bought a Magpul M-lok MVG, love this style of grip. You can also see my budget extended Allen key used to install it. Works flawlessly.
  8. 6 points
    Going to be announcing our first site tomorrow, had to put this somewhere I was going to burst, 6 months in the making!
  9. 6 points
    Game Cam

    Gun picture thread

    New GBB Thompson has turned up.... AND ITS AWESOME!
  10. 6 points

    Gun picture thread

    First Ukara purchase
  11. 6 points

    Gun picture thread

    No accessorizing for me. Old School M16A1 (I know the sling is wrong but I ain't payin £25 for one) Properly 'aged' of course
  12. 6 points

    What are you driving?

    And another... the favorite of my current bikes 🙂
  13. 6 points

    Revolver Display Case

    Couldn't find a picture so I went and got it. Been laid dormant a long time as my wife would not entertain it. Popped the guns in to show. I might hang it up for her return to guage the response.
  14. 6 points
    That and calling one of the admin team a c**t will be the end of anyone really. Personally didn't have that many interactions with him but when you resort on numerous occasions to physical threats of violence and continued aggressive word play not really sure what people expect to happen. I've seen this type of person before who doesn't hold their tongue both on and off the internet and nine times out of ten someone will teach them the error of their ways in one form or another. There's being bold (enough to not bite you tongue and make no apologies for it - as you say) then there's being a d**k for the sake of being a d**k out of some sort of over inflated ego.
  15. 6 points

    Patches are now available(ish)

    Paid up the duty and will be delivered tomorrow. Will attempt to have them dispatched tomorrow too (depends when PF turn up). First class for the preorders so you're not waiting an extra day than is necessary. Appreciate all the patience.
  16. 6 points

    Airsoft Questionnaire

    Moderator Message One member has ignored my previous message, and yet again resorted to an unintelligent and personal rant. There is absolutely no need to be abusive on these forums. Having received previous warnings for aggressive posts and poor behaviour he has been banned from the forum.
  17. 5 points

    What are you driving?

    A little picture of my two beasties.
  18. 5 points
    Millionaire tells millennials: if you want a house, stop buying avocado toast.
  19. 5 points
    I ran a blind spot mirror on my M4 in CQB for peeking round corners. Shocker, it actually let me look round corners. If it's stupid but it works, it's not stupid. Next on my must-have list:
  20. 5 points
  21. 5 points
    I have just read the word "custom" and said it in my head so many times that it no longer sounds like a real word. Why have you done this to me 😲 But ye, agreed. Fair enough you can call it a package because that is essentially what it is, but custom would involve actual effort being put into it to make something truly custom, in my opinion. Saying a gun is custom because it now has a scope and bipod is like adding water to a glass and calling that custom. woah guyz I customizd mah m4 wiv a silencer n poorly sprayd it wiv a scrim net on top! Wot u fink of ma loadout? Show me ur setupz (even tho I dont actually care, I just wont u 2 c my custom m4)!
  22. 5 points

    Chest Rig Identification?

    I dunno what the rig is, but that’s some bluddy good camo....
  23. 5 points
    For some of you it will not come as a surprise that Duff @Duff has now been permanently banned from the forum. This is a permanent ban and can not be appealed. This is the first occasion that we have ever had to permanently ban a member of AF-UK (spammers excluded of course) and felt that it warranted an announcement. This decision was not taken lightly (again, we take every measure to not have to ban someone) but in this case - despite numerous warnings - it's evident that he was unable to follow both many of the written rules on not derailing topics and playing nicely but also some of the unwritten agreements between members to not take the biscuit when it comes to our relatively open policies on language and aggression. We've received numerous reports on this member from every corner on the forum (actually a record high for any member here) as well as a number of PMs from various members (new and old). It's obvious that - despite what points Duff may have been trying to make - that his approach is incompatible with enough of the forum membership that we're just not going to give him any more chances. It may be worth - at this point - reminding you all to take heed of the reactions that you get from other members. If you're always the centre of controversy it might be worth re-evaluating at least how you approach speaking to other forum users. There is absolutely no need to be abusive on these forums. No one is asking you to change your stance on a particular subject to fit in with a common consensus, but we will warn (and ban) people who consistently take the piss with straining relationships on the forums, and derailing otherwise productive threads. The vast, vast majority of you understand and respect this balance and hopefully recognise the fact that apart from herding content into the right sections that the moderation team prefers to stay hands-off when it comes to the actual wording of content. Thank you. TL;DR Duff is the first permanent ban on AFUK due to his attitude and behaviour not being compatible with the values of the forum. Constantly ignoring the forum rules and guidelines. Abusive and aggressive posting is not acceptable.
  24. 5 points
    Says the man who espoused diversity and inclusion in Airsoft and then went and used a piss taking picture of a Down’s syndrome suffer as his avatar ? Never met Duff in person but conversed a lot with the guy via messages , and yes he is a loudmouth opinionated obnoxious gobshite , BUT you do know we’re you stand with him if he don’t like you he’ll tell you straight to your face , a rarity on the internet ? there’s far too many on all forums/Facebook groups that are quite frankly slimy two faced spunktrumpet’s that wouldn’t warrant being pissed on if they were on fire , we all know them they’ll make the snide remarks or bait you till you bite then play the wounded party once you do . Me personally couldn’t give a flying fornication about ANYTHING said on the internet wether at me or someone else (the one caveat being never family or disability) so to be honest I’d rather a gobshite than a snake any day of the week . Then again I’m old fashioned and I expect men to act like men and not some sad little pussy giving it the ‘big I am’ from behind there keyboard , life moves on and the dinosaurs get left behind , say’la’vie .
  25. 5 points
    Sad it had to come to this My own opinion is he often pushed people's buttons shall we say.... My own dispute/spat I will freely admit I went OTT and tore him off an ENOURMOUS strip I wasn't in a jovial mood but that is no excuse though, but tried to put it aside afterwards Having a few years on some others has mellowed me, but alas not 101% of the time I am humble enough to admit I over-reacted a bit imho, feeling a bit shocked when I first heard However when more details & history were revealed it comes as no surprise at the decision taken I fully 101% support the mods decision & action taken I think we can all learn a little from this, banter is fun but must ensure this banter/joking attitude is relayed correctly Written text can be difficult to decipher the sarcasm meant at times & the non-offensive intention it may have meant Me personally I shall try to lengthen my own fuse - sounds like an advert for viagra (seriously - stay on topic) Ahem I shall try to ensure I remain a bit more mellow, not take things too personal, not bite too quickly and be careful to whom I apply my sarcastic wit to maybe, possible smileys etc..... We still need a bit of banter - life is way too serious at times but remind ourselves maybe, how our post might be mis-interpreted ??? Hopefully the bloke might mellow, think we was all a lot more brash/blunt in our younger days I could have also wound my neck in a bit too and admit I wasn't a fine example of maturity too Sorry to mods & AF-UK that it came to this, bit of drama & learn from it etc.... (must keep posts shorter & peace to all)
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